This is where I share stories, lessons, and advice from my travels around the world.
Cruising Through The Holidays
Many of the on board activities were linked to the season. Holiday songs were performed in the piano bar, sung in the pub, and played softly in the background in the wine lounge and the dining rooms. On the cruise’s first day, the ship held a tree lighting ceremony at 9:50 PM. The place went dark and then the tree lights popped on. There were so many lights on that tree, that it lit up not just the tree, but the whole area. For those who enjoy playing trivia and games on board, the ship offered, in addition to such usual trivia sessions as true or false trivia or 5 O’clock trivia, several holiday oriented trivia sessions like a Name that Holiday Tune and a Christmas movies visual quiz.
Cruising Through The Holidays
There is nothing like singing Christmas carols in the Caribbean.
When many think about the winter holiday season, they experience both the joy of the season and wonder how they will accomplish all they need to do for the season. To help keep the joyous aspect of the season and to alleviate any worrisome problems related to the season, make an easy choice. Just remove yourself from home and instead send yourself away to paradise on a holiday cruise. Why cruise for Christmas? Because as it turns out cruising and Christmas go together really well. Cruising through the holidays offers you a chance to relax and at the same time experience a beautifully decorated seasonal location with plenty of holiday themed events and other activities. Cruising offers an easy opportunity to gather your family and friends together, but also allows for each person to have their own personal space and time.
Christmas or Hanukkah cruising not only helps make family and friends gatherings easier; it offers you the choice of being engaged with activities and people or simply relaxing alone choosing to do nothing much at all. The wonderful thing about a cruise ship is there are so many activities to do on a cruise. The ship offers something available to engage everyone, no matter what their ages or interests. A cruise ship also offers plenty of places to be where you can chill out and do what you want to do when you want to do it. Cruising allows each person to be as busy as they wish to be, but still allows for quality family or friends gathering time at dinner in the dining room or a casual restaurant. Most ships are beautifully decorated for Christmas so you are in surroundings that contribute to a festive mood, but you did not have to lift a finger to do any of the decorating. For me, that is part of what I like about cruising - its festive, but it is fairly effortless on my part.
Get off the ship and catch some thrills.
Holiday Cruise - Getting Ready To Go
An important aspect for a successful holiday cruise is to prepare for it. While I know that sounds like you just added a layer of more issues to your season prep, it really does not take that much time and effort to get ready for a cruise. You need to decide on certain aspects of your cruise ahead of time so you can have what you want in place when you get on board. Because it is the holiday season, many others also want to get away on a holiday at the same time so often cabins on a ship sell out completely. Since most schools are out for the holidays there will be many families with children on board; however, don’t fret that will ruin your cruise as most smaller children spend their time with their families or in the kid’s club. I’ve gone on two Christmas cruises and while both ships were full, the children on board were not a problem at all. In addition, the cruise ship even when traveling full of passengers, offers so much to do and see, that it never felt really crowded in any one place. I have spoken with several people on a holiday cruise and each one has stated in their own way what a good idea it was since they had extended family members joining them to celebrate Christmas or Hanukkah. Each said that the a holiday cruise was a great opportunity to gather all family members of any age together in one place for a certain period of time, but without anyone having to serve as the host or coordinator for food or activities. So anyway with that in mind, as you get ready to plan your holiday cruise, be prepared to make some choices about what you want and what your expectations are before you go to actually book your cruise.
Choices you need to make include: where to go; how long a cruise you want; how much you want to spend; and whether you want an inside, oceanview, balcony, or suite type cabin. Remember to consider if one cabin can house the number of people in your immediate party or do you need to book more than one cabin? If you need more than one cabin for your family, you might want to book two cabins that have a connecting door between them or maybe consider paying for a larger cabin or suite. All these factors affect how much you need to spend to get what you want.
Once you have made your choices, then take a look at the different cruise lines that offer a ship going where you would like to go. You can do this yourself on the cruise line’s websites or go through a travel agent, either an online agency or at a travel agency near you. One good way to find out about what is offered by each cruise line is to check out some of the large cruise travel agencies online. Doing so will usually give you a good idea of what is offered for the dates on which you can travel. There are many online travel agencies, but you might try these websites to get an idea of prices and itineraries of holiday cruises:
https://www.expedia.com/Cruises
https://www.cruisecritic.com/cruiseto/
You can also check directly with each of the main cruise lines used by most people in the U.S. to see what they are offering during the holiday season. Try these:
https://www.royalcaribbean.com/
Adventure awaits!
First, decide where you want to go. Somewhere warm is usually the first choice of many holiday cruisers. That generally means somewhere in the sunny Caribbean, but for some it may mean the Mexican Riviera, Hawaii, or even South America or the South Pacific. Decide on how long you want to be gone on your cruise and add in at least one pre-cruise night in the port town your cruise is leaving from. Why add that one extra night? It’s because it is winter in North America and you should arrive a day ahead of your cruise departure to help ensure avoiding any inclement weather related airport or driving delays.
Second, choose how long you want your cruise to last. Most holiday cruises last seven days which gives you a chance to both enjoy many activities, different ports, and relax on board. Taking a shorter or longer cruise affects the cruise price. For most groups of families or friends, a seven day cruise offers the best balance between getting away long enough for a real vacation and getting time off from work and/or school.
Third, decide what ports are important for you to see and experience. Decide if you want more ports - a port intensive cruise or if you want fewer port of calls. More ports means you will most likely find yourself off the ship exploring the sights or experiences daily and then returning to the ship for the later afternoon and evening. Fewer ports of call means you can have more cruising at sea days on board enjoying the ship itself, but you will visit fewer places or islands on your trip.
Fourth, decide what type of cabin room you want. An inside cabin is usually the cheapest, but can be small and offers no window to the outside world. If you are intending to be out and about, only wanting to use your cabin to sleep and shower in, then an inside cabin offers you the best price. An oceanview cabin offers you some type of porthole window so you can see outside and is often also offered at a very good price. A cabin that comes with a balcony where you can open the door and walk out onto your own private space to see and smell the ocean is offered at a higher price than either an inside or oceanview cabin. Some type of suite cabin will give you more cabin space and a larger balcony, but these usually come at a much higher price point. Check the prices, cabin sizes, and number of people a cabin can sleep before making your cabin choice. Make sure it can handle the number of people in your party who will stay in the same cabin with you. I’ve stayed in an oceanview, balcony, and a small suite cabin and have enjoyed them all. I find I like the larger space of a suite cabin and balcony, but when the price really matters I am fine with an oceanview cabin because I do like to at least be able to see directly outside.
Fifth, decide what time you want to dine daily and where you want to dine, at least in general. When you book the cruise you will be usually be asked if you want traditional early (usually 5:30 or 6:00 PM) or late (usually 8:00 or 8:30 PM) dining or anytime/my time dining. If you want to eat at the early time most cruise days, be aware that it is the popular dining time for families with younger children or older adults so sign up for it when booking. If you wait to do so closer to your cruise departure date, this dining time may not be available. The option of anytime or my time dining is also very popular. When you choose this type of dining, you are able to either make daily reservations for your choice of dining time or to go to the dining room to eat without a reserved time and wait until a table is available. It works much like reservations at a restaurant in your hometown does. It means you may have wait for a table to become available and you will often not have the same server or table at every meal. If when you get on board and find that you do not like your table, your seating time, anytime dining or have other dining concerns, be sure to talk to the person at the Food and Beverage Hospitality Desk about it. That person can often make a switch for you between times or tables as needed.
Soak up some vitamin sea.
Boarding Your Ship
Once you have selected your holiday cruise and paid for it, get ready to enjoy the experience. While there may be trouble still out in the greater world and world peace remains elusive, it is with a distinct feeling of seasonal joy that I tramped up the stairs and over the ramp to enter my 2019 Christmas cruise ship. Helping me to feel joyous was the knowledge that I was here in warm San Juan, Puerto Rico, and was about to travel to many other warm and beautiful Caribbean islands. My 2019 Christmas cruise was a port intensive one with stops every day, but one. My family and I went to ports in St. Maarten, St. Kitts, Antigua, St. Lucia, and Barbados. Once on board, the ship’s many holiday decorations set the mood for me and everyone to be in a holiday mood and have a festive cruise experience. The extremely large green Christmas tree on the ship’s main gathering place on Deck Five was large enough to soar up several decks. Surrounding the tree were boughs of greenery on the balconies with wreaths and golden ornaments everywhere. The ship looked like several artists had gotten together and decorated it for the season. It was beautiful and I think these decorations set the tone for our holiday season on board the ship. I thought the decorations on my first holiday cruise in 2018 were beautiful and could not be beat. I was wrong, as on this December 25, 2019 holiday cruise, it was obvious that the ship’s crew was into establishing that more was merrier. Everywhere you looked there was something to remind a cruiser that it was the Christmas and Hanukkah season. Even my fellow passengers got into the decorating act by decorating their cabin doors for the season. Some cabin doors were very well done and artistic, while some were more just plain fun or displayed a child’s seasonal art. Looking at some decorated cabin doors I did wonder if this is a really good way to help a cruiser find their own particular cabin after a few drinks around the ship?
As I traveled around the ship exploring its many bars, lounges, sports facilities, and pools, I noticed that holiday decorations were everywhere, not just in the main public spaces. Even the pool areas sported some type of wreaths, greenery, or ornaments. In the main dining room there was more greenery strung around it and its main stairway linking the three dining room floors together was hung heavily with boughs and ornaments. Up in the casual buffet restaurant visitors were treated to a beautiful and very large seasonal snow village display. The village setting was decked out in red, green, and gold with plenty of ‘snow’ spread throughout it. Also provided was a seasonal welcome aboard really large sheet cake for those who came there for their first cruise chow down (lunch). Even as large as it was, that cake was all gone by dinner time. In addition, the casual dining areas, such as the 24 hour cafe, the pizzeria, and other snack areas, were decked out with ribbons, garlands, and many small trees with tiny lights or globes on them. The great decorating effort by the ship’s staff established a holiday seasonal feeling as did much of the music played in the various venues throughout the ship.
You can take a cupcake decorating class!
Activities On The Ship
Many of the on board activities were linked to the season. Holiday songs were performed in the piano bar, sung in the pub, and played softly in the background in the wine lounge and the dining rooms. On the cruise’s first day, the ship held a tree lighting ceremony at 9:50 PM. The place went dark and then the tree lights popped on. There were so many lights on that tree, that it lit up not just the tree, but the whole area. For those who enjoy playing trivia and games on board, the ship offered, in addition to such usual trivia sessions as true or false trivia or 5 O’clock trivia, several holiday oriented trivia sessions like a Name that Holiday Tune and a Christmas movies visual quiz.
One popular program with the cruisers was the 8:00 PM Christmas Eve Caroling sing a long. Led by the ship’s entertainment staff in front of the ship’s large Christmas tree, many people gathered to sing traditional and contemporary seasonal songs. Song books were handed out so that everyone could know the words and follow the tune. While that may sound boring to some, it actually turned out to be fun and a good reminder that this was a season of good cheer and good will to all. Early on Christmas Day at 7:30 AM, that special holiday fellow Santa, arrived beside the Christmas tree. All children on board were invited to meet with Santa and receive a small gift from him which is, of course, really from the cruise line. For those who were still on board at 1:00 in the afternoon and later again at 5:00 PM, there was a Christmas scavenger hunt that I heard many families participated in. Evening entertainment on Christmas included a Christmas Friendly Feud game show, a family elves disco, a name that Christmas tune trivia game in the piano bar, and a holiday PJ movie night of How the Grinch Stole Christmas out beside the main pool. Proving that you can only get as bored as you want to be, cruise entertainment that evening also offered karaoke, dancing under the stars by the pool after the Christmas movie was over, an excellent and must see ice skating show, a cash prize bingo game, and that cruise traditional but funny program, the Love and Marriage Game Show.
Other activities to consider on board your cruise is seeing the ice skating show and/or diving show if your ship offers them. Both are excellent and it is amazing what can be done by a performer when the ship is moving at sea. Usually there is at least one or two theatre production shows. These can be either good or not so good, but you can leave anytime you find yourself not really enjoying the show. If there is a comedian or a magician, consider seeing those shows as they are usually quite good. Many professional entertainers cycle through cruise ships and their performances are often enjoyable. On this 2019 holiday cruise there was a late night adult comedy performance offered, but I found I was too tired that evening to actually make it to that show. One show I did get to see was by a magician named Jasen Magic. I made it to his performance despite having spent the day on St. Kitts hiking up and down the 3,792 foot tall Mount Liamuiga volcano. Jasen was extremely funny and involved the audience in his magic tricks and humor. His show was fast paced and included improv humor along with mystifying tricks. He was well worth making time to go see. I recommend going to any show you see associated with his name.
The main dining hall is a great option for your holiday meal.
Holiday Dining
On Christmas Day the main dining room menu featured that traditional holiday meal standard - roast turkey with dressing, several different types of potatoes and vegetables, along with pumpkin, pecan, and apple pie a la mode. Also offered was a ham dish along with a vegetarian option.
On this cruise I did not dine in any of the extra charge specialty dining restaurants on board; however, each of those featured a holiday menu based on their specialty food types. On my previous holiday cruise I did dine in the specialty steakhouse restaurant. There the dinner started off with a glass of champagne and proceeded to offer a large variety of entrees and sides. Both years, in the specialty dining restaurant and in the main ship’s dining room, one of the desserts offered to everyone was a tasty traditional French yule log, a Bûche de Noël.
If you are interested in dining in the ship’s extra charge specialty restaurants, then try to make reservations for them prior to getting on board. Doing so helps to ensure you can get the dining restaurant and time you prefer. Go to your cruise line’s website as soon as possible and find where you can look at its cruise planner section. Depending on your cruise line you may need to have your cruise confirmation number and sign in to access it your particular cruise or you may be able to take a general look at the dining offerings without signing in. Once on the site, take a look at the cruise dining venues and the dining packages and places offered. Specialty restaurants do have a per person charge, although they can be somewhat cheaper if you book them in a package such as committing to dining in three of them during your cruise. Be aware that even if you book a specialty dining package for all the evenings of your cruise, that it will not usually include dinner on Christmas Day. If you want to book a Christmas Day meal at a specialty restaurant, then do so prior to your cruise. In my experience, Christmas Day meals are usually sold as separate tickets outside of a package and they do cost more than the regular specialty meal charge. That said, if you board without any specialty restaurant reservations and decide you want to give one a try, you can check at the specialty restaurant itself and make your purchase arrangements then for what is available. You may not get the cheapest price point on it, but you can usually get into the specialty restaurant of your choice. If you decide to not try a specialty restaurant or cannot get a time at the place you want, remember the main dining room is still a very nice place to eat and that there are usually several other non-charge venues to eat at on the ship.
As an aside to the more traditional holiday seasonal dining on board, I believe nothing says Christmas more than learning how to make a good spicy guacamole and a great margarita with alcohol included. This cruise offered a fun class on how to make both of these. It included a complete lunch and drinks. The guacamole was prepared by the participants for their tables. I enjoyed having the ability to make the guacamole as spicy or not spicy as I wanted. A word of warning, if you are going to make it spicy, do a good job of mixing up the guacamole ingredients, so one poor soul doesn’t get hit with all the heat while taking one bite. As for the holiday season since guacamole is based on an avocado, the guacamole was green and my margarita had streaks of red in it. Since these two products contained both red and green colors, I considered these to be part of my seasonal celebration.
Keeping old traditions while starting new ones.
Your Own Cabin
One great way to bring the season closer into your life on board is to decorate your cabin for the holiday. Come prepared to personalize it by jazzing it up for the season. This doesn’t really take much effort, just a bit of prior preparation. On a previous cruise I saw a cabin where someone had wrapped up the cabin’s pictures on the wall in colorful wrapping paper and added ribbons and a bow. It made them into your own personal presents hanging on the cabin wall. If you like that, take it further and consider wrapping your whole cabin door.
I recommend to really personalize the holiday season in your cabin that you find a space somewhere in it and set up a small tree you brought with you. I know cabin space can sometimes be cramped, but there is usually some type of nook or place where you can add a tree. I purchased a small fake green tree and a small light-up plastic tree. I put both these onto a ledge in my cabin. Underneath it, I put out some small wrapped presents brought with me to open up on the actual holiday. If you don’t think you have space in your suitcase to bring gifts with you, see if you can find some type of gifts to purchase at a port of call stop before Christmas. These don’t need to be large or expensive, just some small things that you think your family or cabin mates might like. Then put them underneath your cabin tree. Put some window clings onto the mirror in your cabin or try some magnet decorating on the walls (they are metal). On your cabin door consider decorating it with a Santa figure or some holly with berries or maybe a seasonal card. Before your cruise, you can cut out a Christmas card or scene and paste it onto a flat magnet to arrange for your own personal holiday design you can place on the cabin door. As I noted before, a holiday design of some type on the door does make your cabin distinctive from all the others lining the hallway.
This drawing by a Spanish Captain was made as he was being held at Castillo de San Cristobal on mutiny charges.
Shore Excursions and Activities On Board
Check your cruise line’s shore excursions before you go on the cruise. You can find these listed in the planning section of your cruise line’s website. Check what is available for each stop and think about whether you and any others you are with would enjoy that excursion. Be aware that many cruise line shore excursions can get crowded so think about whether it is the right choice for you. If you are worried about getting back to the ship before the all on board time, then choose a ship shore excursion. If it comes back late, the ship will wait for you. If you want a different or less crowded shore excursion, then you have some other choices to make. You can research a destination and then arrange for another private shore excursion company’s tour, hire a taxi once on the location’s pier to take you on a tour or to a specific destination, or perhaps rent your own car at the destination if car rental is easily available. If you just want to walk around a port or town, you can do that too on your own. Just be sure to have a map with you or your cell phone’s GPS activated so you don’t get too lost. At all times, remember to be back on board by the posted on board time. Always keep your watch or cell phone on ship’s time, not the local destination’s time. You don’t want to miss the sailing or be one of the “pier runners” that everyone watches and hoots at from their balconies or higher public decks.
On Christmas Day, you should consider whether you wish to go ashore or stay on board the ship. Both are good options and offer different ways for you and your family or friends to celebrate the holiday. Depending on where your ship docks on Christmas Day the shore excursions offered by the cruise line will differ; however, most warm weather cruises will have a choice of several beach excursions and several types of land explorations. If you want more variety or fewer people on your shore excursion, consider exploring the options of a private vendor’s tours. Book your chosen shore excursion as far ahead of time as possible to ensure you get what you want. You may also select to go to a public beach and see if you can grab a taxi to and from your selected destination. Another relatively easy option would be to go to a resort for a day, but again I recommend booking your resort day pass before you leave for cruise to ensure your ability to use it as planned on the holiday. Whatever you choose, keep in mind that many destinations often will not offer all the open stores, businesses, restaurants, and government services that you would usually find. Taxis may not be plentiful as usual and public bus transportation may be limited or not offered at all. Factor all this into your decision about what to do for the holiday. This year my family decided to make things easier by booking a ship’s shore excursion for us all to an Antigua beach which included transportation to and from the beach, a full lunch, drinks, and loungers with umbrellas. It was not the greatest shore excursion I have ever been on, but we were at a beach on Christmas with plenty of food, drinks, and someplace to relax without much effort on our part. The reason I say it was not the greatest was that many other cruisers apparently wanted the same easy kind of visit and the beach was way more crowded than I liked. Still, it did make for a warm on the beach day and we were back on the ship later in the day with enough time to enjoy some of the ship’s holiday activities. Another option to consider is to just stay on board for the entire day. Your ship will usually provide an entertaining array of things to do throughout the day. Choices offered on my ship this Christmas Day included: raffles and games in the Casino; spa services with special massages; various bar and trivia games, wine tasting; a cake decorating class; a Jenga competition; two different Christmas scavenger hunts; pool games; table tennis competitions; a Bachata dance class; and various Christmas movies on your cabin TV, on the big pool side screen, and in the theatre. All these were in addition to the more usual cruise ship on board activities like the Belly Flop contest, hot tubs and pools, different venues with live music performers, karaoke, dancing on the deck in the evening, and a Love and Marriage game show in the middle of the evening made for one packed day. Staying on board means you won’t lack for things to do. It also means you can relax by the pool, on the decks feeling the sea breeze, or in your cabin or on your cabin’s balcony if you have one. Whatever you and your family and friends chose to do, it is important to remember it is your day to celebrate the season and be happy for the chance to be together.
Christmas in Paris
If you could go anywhere in the world for Christmas, where would you go? Consider giving Paris a shot. Having spent the winter holiday there, I can honestly say if you are looking for a truly wonderful place to experience Christmas outside of your own hometown, consider Paris. Experiencing French culture and traditions of the Christmas season in Paris is a true delight.
Christmas In Paris
Notre Dame was beautifully decorated for Christmas.
If you could go anywhere in the world for Christmas, where would you go? Consider giving Paris a shot. Having spent the winter holiday there, I can honestly say if you are looking for a truly wonderful place to experience Christmas outside of your own hometown, consider Paris. Experiencing French culture and traditions of the Christmas season in Paris is a true delight. There is still something to the sight of Notre Dame, even after the fire, with a lighted Christmas tree in front of it that inspires me to give thanks for everything and enjoy the holiday. The city somehow gives off an old world charm and celebrates its own traditions for the holiday while seamlessly incorporating modern culture.
Once you make your decision to go to Paris and arrange for your flights, then you have to decide where to stay. This decision is an important one since it influences what you are able to see and do during your visit. Remember, it is likely to be chilly in Paris (it usually is about 37°F to 46°F on average) during the holidays so you want to be sure you find a place that fits your budget, is comfortable, and close enough to most of what you want to see. That way when the weather is fine, you can go outdoors and explore around. When the weather is not so great, you can either get quickly to your destination or, if need be, get to your selected transportation.
Now that is my kind of welcome package!
Choosing Your Parisian Home
As you consider the choices of what area of Paris to make your temporary home away from home and the choice of accommodation type, consider your finances. Balance what you have to spend with what you want to experience. Remember that you have been saving probably for some time to be on this special vacation. It’s okay to spend that money on some priceless experiences. As long as you’re reasonably sure that you know how you want to spend your money, then you won’t regret it later. Take transportation needs into this consideration. Often it is not a good decision to pay less by staying further out from the center of historic Paris in one of the outer arrondissements. If you do, then you must factor in the cost of both your travel time and transportation cost to get to the sights you want to see. People often forget about the time lost traveling. That is time you could spend sitting at a cafe watching life pass you by, staring at the Eiffel Tower lit up at night, gazing at the twinkling holiday lights up and down the Champs Élysées or contemplating the skill that was needed to produce a painting by one of the masters. However, the closer to the center of Paris, the more likely your hotel or other accommodations’ cost will increase. It is worth it since being in the center of Paris puts you so much closer to the big sights and still offers you a choice of interesting Parisian neighborhoods to experience.
Choose your Parisian neighborhood carefully. Each neighborhood is known for different things. Picking the right neighborhood for you can pay off big as you wander the streets around your selected temporary home. Going out for meals in Paris can be ridiculously expensive. Consider choosing a place to stay with some type of kitchen access. That allows you to save a lot of money on your meals. You might even create some memories about finding your own favorite local shops for such things as bread, croissants, cheeses, pastilles, macarons, and foods.
If you are going to stay in Paris for four or more days (I recommend between four to seven nights), consider either using a service such as AirBnB for individual accommodations in the area you want to stay in or use an apartment rental service. These options will usually result in a cheaper accommodation for a longer stay. However, the trade off is you probably won’t have any cleaning services, so if you want clean towels you will need to launder them yourself. Still an apartment can offer a better feeling of being part of a neighborhood, kitchen facilities to help keep costs down, and provide privacy when you want or need it. There are at least nine or more well known short stay apartment rental businesses in Paris. I used Cobblestone Paris Rentals which is American owned, but Paris based. Cobblestone offered several different Paris locations, apartments sizes, and price ranges. They were informative, prompt, and very helpful throughout my time in Paris. Check them out at https://cobblestoneparis.com/ Some other recommended apartment services include Paris Perfect at https://www.parisperfect.com/ Paris for Rent at https://www.parisforrent.com/ ; and Cross-Pollinate Paris at https://www.cross-pollinate.com/paris/p/1. I have not personally used these three services, but I have read good things about them.
Be sure and visit the local cafes for lunch.
Parisian Arrondissements for value and convenience
The 4th Arrondissement, Le Marais, runs about from the Pompidou Center to the Bastille. There are several small hotels located in this area which can offer reasonable rates for being so close to the center of Paris. This is also a great area to consider renting a short stay apartment if you visit for four days or more. For my week long stay during the holidays, I rented a one bedroom apartment from Cobblestone Paris in a historic old building. It was located on a small side street just two blocks from the Pompidou Center. The apartment I rented had all the necessary things to make a trip comfortable and easier, including a small kitchen with a working stove, dishwasher, fridge, and microwave. The bathroom was also small, but it was modern with all the amenities in great shape, including a washer/dryer. Everything was included in the rental such as cable TV, internet, towels, bedding, dishes, silverware, cooking utensils, spices, cookbooks, Paris guidebooks, and even a bottle of wine. I found the apartment’s centrally located Marais location great since it was so easy to get around Paris from there, there were many choices of neighborhood streets to easily wander around, and shopkeepers and locals around there were helpful whenever I had questions. For a hotel stay in the Marais, consider staying at the Hotel Beaubourg, 11 Rue Simon le Franc, 75003 Paris. It offers good comfort, reasonable hotel prices for such a great central city location, and a very helpful staff.
The Marais is filled with jumbled up old medieval based streets where Parisians still live, work, and shop. The architecture here reflects its mixed heritage and includes old stone mansions, small boutique shop like buildings, and even some newer more up to date buildings here and there. In the Marais you can enjoy walking around a neighborhood that makes you feel like you are part of a very old European town and also at the same time part of a lively up to date trendy area. This part of town contains interesting sights like: the Carnavalet Museum covering the history of Paris and France; the Pompidou Center with its great collection of modern art and a wonderful view across the rooftops of Paris; Victor Hugo’s house set on one of the most historic squares in old Paris - the Place des Vosges; and the Picasso Museum. If you stay close to the Pompidou Center, you are also located within a short walking distance of Notre Dame, Sainte-Chappelle, Hotel de Ville (Paris City Hall), the Jewish Art and History Museum, and the Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was jailed and tried before being beheaded during the French Revolution. Transportation around Paris from the Marais is good. I found the Hotel de Ville Metro stop allowed me to easily connect to wherever I wanted to go in Paris. Another close by and handy Metro stop was the Rambuteau.
The 7th Arrondissement, the Left Bank of the Seine, is across the river from the Eiffel Tower. The Rue Cler neighborhood here is popular and contains wide streets, many old apartment buildings, a pedestrian only shopping street, and is bordered by the river, the Eiffel Tower, and Les Invalides. If you stay here, you can easily walk to the Eiffel Tower, the French Musée d l’Armee and Napoleon’s Tomb in Les Invalides, the Musée de Orsay, and Musée Rodin. Also close is the beautiful and elegant famous Parisian boulevard for strolling along and people watching, the Champs-Elysées. That boulevard leads you right to the Arc de Triomphe, a must see Paris historic monument.
While in this area, consider eating at the Cafe Constant in the 7th located at 139 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris. The food is tasty with changing daily specials. Try whatever the special for the day is as it will be good and reasonably priced. http://www.cafe-constant.com/fr/ Another place to sample some good, but for Paris inexpensive, food is the Brasserie Aux PTT at 54 Rue Cler, 75007 Paris.
On the Place de Breteuil in the 7th is the Saxe-Breteuil Market. Go to this food market when it is open on Thursday and Saturday mornings and shop for fresh produce and flowers like the locals do. If you can’t make Thursday and Saturday morning at Saxe-Breteuil Market, then shop the Rue Cler street open air produce stands and its shops to put together what you need for a meal or picnic.
On good weather days, you could take your picnic at the park by the Eiffel Tower or across the Seine to the Jardins du Trocadéro (gardens created in 1937). See the garden’s Warsaw fountains with 20 water cannons. These cannons provide a great water display during the daytime and during summer in the evenings they are illuminated. Transportation around Paris is good from the 7th Arrondissement. The main Metro stops in the 7th are Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, and Invalides. Also the RER line C has stops at the Pont de l’Alma and Invalides stations which can take you across town quickly and even out to Versailles.
The 5th and 6th Arrondissements, The Luxembourg Garden Area. While many places to stay here in these two Left Bank arrondissements are most likely more expensive than those in the 4th and 7th Arrondissements, they still offer that close in to the center of town location. Also, the Luxembourg Garden is a beautiful classic Parisian spot to see and enjoy its beauty with nearby sights such as St. Sulpice Church and the Pantheon, shopping, and many good cafes for eating and relaxing in. The Boulevard St. Germain, the Cluny Musée, and the Latin Quarter are all close by the gardens. For a reasonably priced hotel in this area consider the Hotel Bonaparte, 61 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris. Commit to staying there for five nights or more and get a reduction in price.
For reasonable prices and good food, check out the many cafes of the Boulevard St. Germain, Rue de Buci, Rue des Canettes, Place de la Sorbonne, and Place de la Contrescarpe. Try the crepes at La Crepe Rit du Clown at 6 Rue des Canettes, 75006 Paris or for making sure you get to see an original Art Nouveau place in Paris, check out the menu at Brasserie Bouillion Racine, 3 Rue Racine, 75006 Paris. The foods good, relatively reasonably priced, there is Belgian beer on tap, and the restaurant itself is a feast for your eyes (if you like Art Nouveau or if you just want to see what it must have been like in Paris back in the early 1900’s).
There is a good street market to check out nearby on the south end of Rue Mouffetard. It’s about five to six blocks south of Place de la Contrescarpe and you can also use the Metro stop, Place Monge to reach it. Open hours vary, but usually the market is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM until 1 PM and 4 PM until 7 PM, and Sundays from 10 AM until 1 PM, and is closed on Mondays. Transportation around Paris through the Metro is good from this area. Metro stops are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Mabillon, Odeon, and St. Sulpice. The RER-B line from the Luxembourg station has direct service to Cheles de Gaule airport and the Gare du Nord trains.
You need to figure out early how you plan to see all the spots that you want to visit.
Paris Transportation
When it comes to getting around Paris, your transportation choices are excellent. Paris’ public transportation is generally reliable, easy to use, and reasonably inexpensive. If at all possible, make walking your first choice for getting around Paris. Walking gives you the best opportunity to experience the sights and sounds of Paris first hand. However, If walking won’t get you there fast enough or where you want to go is far enough away you do not want to walk there, then take the Metro. The Metro can take you to most places around Paris at a reasonable cost and is fast.
I don’t recommend walking for long distances unless you want to look like this.
Walking
Walking around should be your first choice. If like me, you came to experience Paris, then you should walk through its streets. Enjoy the sounds and the sights. Even in the cold December weather, there were musicians out in front of the Pompidou Center, in the streets of the left bank people were gathered here and there, and in front of Notre Dame there were some performance artists. Talk to shopkeepers and others willing to stop for a moment to offer directions or other help. Contrary to what many believe about Parisians, I never found anyone there to be rude or unhelpful. The people I talked to tried their best to understand my few words of French or hand signals; indeed, many spoke English and were both polite and helpful. The historic neighborhoods of Paris are great places to wonder and to admire the beautiful architecture of its buildings. Take the time to check out the beauty of the oldest square in Paris, the Place des Vosges, which also is where Victor Hugo’s historic house can be found. Another great place to take a stroll in the evening is along the Champs Elysées to experience the coordinated and beautiful light display during the holiday season along the avenue. I think that one of the great things about Paris is that the areas most people want to visit when they come to the city are usually within walking distance of each other. Plus, it is hard to get too lost in Paris since the Seine and the Eiffel Tower are usually within sight to help you orient yourself.
All of the Metro stops are clearly marked.
2. Metro
The Metro is Paris’ main transport system. It is actually fairly easy to understand and is reasonably priced. The Metro runs trains underground with times ranging from about every five minutes to every fifteen minutes. Using the Metro gets you to pretty much wherever you want to go. It has over 300 stations spread throughout the city. Although the Paris Metro is divided into zones, most of the sights people want to see are within zones 1 and 2. The Metro system service hours are good and rarely change. It starts running most days at 5:30 AM and does not close until 12:40 AM or 1:40 AM on weekends and holidays. Please note that it is possible an event such a strike can shut down the Metro at times. Check these websites for the most up to date information at https://www.ratp.fr/en/visite-paris/english/visiting-paris-and-its-surrounding-areas or https://www.transilien.com/en
Buy your Metro tickets at the ticket booths inside many, but not all, stations or try using the ticket vending machines. The kiosk machines accept Euro coins or smart chip credit cards. Non-smart chip credit cards are not accepted. If you do not have a smart chip card, then use Euros to buy your Metro tickets. The most basic Metro ticket of 1.90€ covers travel for two hours going one way. Instead of trying to figure out the cost of individual use tickets, I recommend you buy a book of ten tickets called a carnet. Buy the Navigo Easy card for 2€ and the discounted ten ticket carnet for 14.90€. That makes each ticket less than 1.50€. Buy the Navigo Easy card at any Paris Metro or RER ticket booth. Ask the ticket agent for a “Navigo Easy avec un carnet.” That way the agent loads the10 tickets right onto the card for you and it can be used immediately. Buying your Metro tickets this way makes the day less stressful than if you had to stand in front of the machines to buy tickets as you go. The downside to Navigo Easy card use is while you can use it on the Roissybus and the Orlybus when buying those tickets as separate fare purchases, you cannot use it to take the RER to Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), Disneyland Paris, or for Paris-Versailles. That may change at any time, so check these two websites for more information https://www.ratp.fr/en or https://www.transilien.com/en
While using the Metro, remember sortie means exit and that there can be several sorties within one Metro station. Look at the Neighborhood Map posted inside each station, find where you want to go on the map, and then take the closest sortie to reach your destination. And if you can, try to avoid Metro rush hours Monday through Friday from 8:00 to 10:00 AM and 5:00 to 8:00 PM. Also, note that currently the Metro is undergoing construction as it works to adapt for disabled access. Some stations may close while this work is going on so check here https://www.ratp.fr/en/informations for up to date information about closings or for further information about holiday service hours.
If you are lucky enough to be in Paris this year for New Year’s Eve, the Metro has a “Free transportation during New Year’s Eve” program for New Year’s Eve in Paris. The Metro will work all night working in cooperation with the buses, trams, and RER trains from December 31, 2019 at 5:00 PM through January 1, 2020 at 12:00 PM. During that time, the Paris Metro will run all lines until 2:15 AM. After that only some lines will be work, but they may not stop at all the metro stations. Metro lines during this special service time are: 1, 2, 4, 6, 9, and 14.
The Paris Pass is your ticket to get into many places.
3. Paris Pass
Another method to cover your Metro travel is to consider buying a Paris Pass. That way is more expensive than just buying Metro tickets or the Paris Museum Pass, but it covers many attractions and historic sights entry fees and unlimited travel on the Metro, bus, tram, and RER within Paris. It even includes a one day hop on-hop off bus pass. Check its website for more information https://www.parispass.com/ Even for budget travelers the time saved by not having to purchase individual tickets to museums and attractions plus skipping some long lines to get into them, can make the Paris Pass worth the extra money. Consider what you want to see in Paris, then make a comparison of individually bought entry fees and Metro, bus, and other transportation costs to the cost of the Paris Pass for the number of days when you are in the city. For me, one of the best benefits of the Paris Pass turned out to be the ability to skip the long lines at some attractions like the Louvre and the Arch de Triumphe. On one very cold day when I went to visit the Arch de Triumphe that was a great benefit. Instead of standing outside in the long line which snaked around its base, I got to skip right to the entrance kiosk and start up the stairs.
The RER is comfortable and somewhat easy to use.
4. RER
The RER is the regional express network for Paris and its surrounding areas. It is a rapid transit type system of trains that serves the suburbs of Paris and also provides fast transport like a subway train through the city itself. It has five lines, A through E, and is operated by a different company than the Metro. RER trains run on scheduled times, unlike the Metro’s every so many minutes, and you can purchase tickets for a specific journey on the RER. Some Metro stations are also RER access stations, but remember that if you want to use a RER train you must use a RER station. A station served by a RER train will say on its sign RER and include the specific RER lines served inside a circle. Buy your RER tickets either online, at the RER station kiosk machines, put your RER ticket onto a Navigo card, or use a Paris Pass to cover your trip. Once you have your ticket, navigated through the right RER turnstile, and gotten to your train’s platform, you need to know that theRER train doors do not open automatically. To get on and off a RER train, you have to activate the doors through a button located on the handle near the middle of the double doors. Check the websites https://www.ratp.fr/en and https://www.transilien.com/en for more information.
Many streets have a bus lane to avoid traffic.
5. Busses
Bus routes criss-cross Paris and can take you on a sightseeing journey for a fraction of what a tour would cost. I also found out one day that a bus route would take me from the Eiffel Tower up to another part of the city directly instead of having to go through several transfers on the Metro. Even better than skipping the transfer stops on the Metro was the fact that I could sightsee along the Paris streets through the bus window as I traveled. Busses use the same tickets and passes as the Metro and the RER. A Zone 1 ticket buys you a bus ride to anywhere inside central Paris. Paris bus stops all have route maps, a schedule of stops information, an end of the line direction and stop name, and a small layout of the neighborhood of the stop. You can buy your single ticket on board the bus or use your Metro Navigo Easy pass. When using the bus make sure you get on the right one. Ask the driver if it goes where you want or check the sign on the front of the bus which displays its end of the line stop. Enter the bus through the front door. When ready to exit use the red button to let the driver know you want to get off and then exit through the rear door. Try a bus ride as an exploration of central Paris, you might find something in the city you did not know about before, or learn you can enjoy traveling about the city like a local.
Getting around by car isn't a bad way to go when you aren’t driving.
6. Taxis, Uber, Lyft, etc.
These all operate throughout Paris. They make the most sense when you are traveling as a group of four or more or with a lot of bags. Using these transportation services will cost more than using the Metro, so I recommend whenever possible travel through Paris like the locals do-walk or use the Metro. If you need an English speaking taxi service try https://www.paristaxi1.com/ I used them to get to CDG airport in time for my departure plane when my previously scheduled airport transport did not show. I called them for a taxi early in the morning before dawn. They were quick and efficient. At the time my ride cost was approximately 51€ and the driver preferred it in Euros, not on a credit card.
Uber and Lyft work in Paris just like they do in other cities and can be cheaper than a taxi, but in most cases they will not be cheaper than using the Metro or RER.
Spare yourself the stress and don’t drive.
7. Cars
Simply put - I do not recommend driving in Paris. If you have ever observed the traffic circle around the Arch de Triumphe, you really would say there is no need to join in at all. Public transportation is so cheap and covers the city so well that access through that transportation is easier and cheaper than having a car in the city. Save some money and stress. Have someone else do the driving.
Sightseeing with a touch of class
8. Seine boat cruises
I recommend you do at least one of these. There are at least three or more companies providing these boat cruises. Usual cruise offerings range from about 45 minutes to one and a half hours. The cruises leave and return to the same spot where they departed from. The only difference is the where they leave from and how far down the Seine they go. A cruise down the Seine may seem touristy, but I highly recommend it even in winter. Most boats offer inside glass window viewing seating which is warmer than being outside. However, to really see and feel that you are on the river I think you should go outside. Once outside, it can be windy and cold, but the view is really beautiful. You can smell the river and see the flags waving around while taking photos or waving to the people on shore. You can see many famous sights of Paris from a short river cruise, such as the Louvre, Notre Dame, Musee d’ Orsay, and the Eiffel Tower. There are also lunch and dinner cruises on the Seine. These are mostly aimed at tourists, but since you are a visitor, why not enjoy it? It gives you a different view of the city as you glide down and up the river. I took a Christmas lunch cruise for a leisurely ride down the Seine complete with a good meal and plenty of champagne. It was relaxing, offered good sightseeing from inside the boat and outside from the top of the boat, holiday music played, there was a traditional French yule log, and it was a warm way to spend a portion of Christmas day. Listed are just two of the companies offering a Seine river cruise. One company is Bateaux Mouches, cost 14€ website www.bateaux-mouches.fr Another company is Bateaux Parisiens with medium sized one level boats, cost 15€. Note that currently Paris Pass holders have a Bateaux Parisiens river cruise included as part of the pass by collecting the free ticket from the company’s Eiffel Tower departure point window at Pier 3. Be sure and check the Paris Pass website for up to date information on the river cruise at www.bateauxparisiens.com
Notre Dame decorated for Christmas was a sight to behold.
Christmas Services
Christmas Eve in Paris is the bigger event of the two days, Christmas Eve and Christmas. Nothing will probably make you feel more like you are in Paris than attending a Christmas Eve service at one of its many historic Catholic churches, large or small. Although the services are in French, you can still recognize the many traditional hymns. Since this is Paris, there is probably a church located near to your temporary stay neighborhood home. Some larger Paris churches with Christmas Eve services include: Madeleine Church; Basilica of Sacre Coeur; Saint Sulpice Church; and Saint Eustache Church. Since at present Notre Dame is undergoing repairs, it is not available for services this year. If instead you would prefer a service in English, there are several churches that have them. The American Cathedral (Episcopal) at 23 Avenue George V (Metro: Alma Marceau), offers a 5:00 PM Christmas Eve family service and a 10:30 PM Christmas Eve Midnight Mass with a Christmas Day service at 11:00 AM. St. Michael’s Church (Anglican) at 5 Rue d’ Aguesseau (Metro: Madeleine) offers a Christmas Eve service at 11:00 PM and a Christmas Day service at 10:30 AM. Or you could check out the American Church (inter-denominational Protestant), at 65 Quai d’ Orsay, (Metro: Invalides) as it offers a Christmas Eve family service at 4:00 PM and a Prelude Candlelight service at 7:00 PM (opens doors at 6:45 PM) and again at 9:30 PM. For the American Church up to date information check their website at https://www.acparis.org/
Buy your tickets to the Eiffel Tower as early as possible.
Eiffel Tower on Christmas Day
The Eiffel Tower is open on Christmas Day. Buy your tickets ahead of time, but be aware that even with an advance ticket purchase you will still stand in an outside security line for some time. Also, be aware that there are always crowds at the Eiffel Tower and you will be visiting it with many of your new BFF’s. Mingling in with the crowds around the Tower are some who are not your friends; pickpockets are here even on Christmas. Be mindful of your valuables. Dress warmly, you will be outside most of your time on the tower and it is very windy up on the second and top levels. One thing that makes getting to the Eiffel Tower easy - you can see it from anywhere around Paris since it is so tall.
For public transportation to the Eiffel Tower, you can use the Metro, the RER, or busses.
There are three Metro and one RER commuter stations nearby to the Eiffel Tower: Bir-Hakeim (line 6 Nation - Charles de Gaulle Etoile) which is an eight minute walk to the tower; Trocadero (line 9 Pont de Sevres - Mairie de Montreuil) which is a 12 minute walk; Ecole Militaire (Line 8 Balard - Creteil) which is a 15 minute walk; and the RER Line C stop at the Champ de Mars - Tour Eiffel which is a 7 minute walk.
Getting to the Eiffel Tower by public bus offers you several stops nearby: Bus 82 with stops “tour Eiffel” or “Champ de Mars” about a 5 minute walk; Bus 42 with stop “tour Eiffel” a 5 minute walk; Bus 87 with stop “Champ de Mars” a 6 minute walk; and Bus 69 with stop “Champ de Mars” a 6 minute walk.
Once you are ready to begin your Eiffel Tower journey, you can choose to go up to the first floor by the stairs or by using the elevators. If using the elevator, you should start your journey up by going to the highest level you bought a ticket for. I recommend buying a ticket for the top level since if you do not like it you can always leave and go down to the second level, but you cannot go higher if you did not buy that top level ticket. Go up to the top level and enjoy the view with the birds from far above the earth. Follow the line of the river to help you orient yourself to where you are in Paris. Take some photos! It will be beautiful up there whether it is daytime or nighttime. At Christmas time it will also be cold and windy so bundle up. When you are done enjoying the top level, take the elevator down to the second level. The second level observation platform offers stunning views of Paris. I think it is easier here to pick out specific sights. This level also offers a gift shop and a place to get coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, or some snacks. After spending time at the top level, I highly recommend a hot chocolate and a macaroon or two! Currently the price to go all the way up to the top by elevator is 25.50€ for adults. You cannot climb the stairs to the top of the Eiffel Tower as they are not open beyond the second level. A ticket to the second floor as your top level to visit by using the elevator costs less. I recommend you do not use the stairs at all during the winter and it is possible that the stairs may not be open due to weather conditions. Buy your Christmas Eve or Christmas Day tickets in advance to avoid the longer lines at the ticket booths at the base of the tower. Use https://ticket.toureiffel.paris/ to purchase your advance tickets.
I recommend stopping by Cafe Richard for some hot chocolate or coffee.
Holiday Windows Displays
A free activity at this time of the year is to browse the holiday window displays at the large department stores in Paris. On Christmas Eve or Christmas make a trek to see the displays and stop to have hot chocolate at a cafe in between each of your viewing stops. Every year the Paris stores go all out to decorate for Christmas with a different theme at each store. Displays include multiple window displays which have lights, animated features, and plenty of sparkle and cheer. Planning for a store’s window starts right after they take down the previous year’s decorations so a lot of effort goes into these windows and it shows. When the store is open, Galeries Lafayette has a giant tree underneath the building’s central dome; but you can check out their windows at any time. Le Printemps offers another well known store window display. Use Metro stop Chausee d’Antin to get to the Boulevard Haussmann to see both of those stores. Use the Metro stop Sevres-Babylone to get to Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche at 24 Rue de Sevres. Another store with windows worth going to see is at the BHV Marais at 52 Rue de Rivoli. Use the Metro stop Hotel de Ville to reach it.
The Christmas markets are well worth the crowds.
Christmas Markets
Another fun thing to do while in Paris is to visit one or two of its many Marchés de Noël or Christmas Markets. These are temporary market places filled with stalls selling handmade decorations and foods like cheeses, meats, and candy. They often have a place to stop and see Père Noël or Father Christmas. You might find a great gift at the market or not, but you can enjoy being there and hearing French spoken all around you. The one I went to was located close to Les Halles, the Starry Christmas market in Place Joachim-du-Bellay. Les Halles is just a few blocks beyond the Pompidou Center and is easy to find. Keep walking past the Pompidou entrance straight toward the lights and noise. That will lead you right to that Christmas Market and just beyond it, to Les Halles. Les Halles is a modern shopping center which is mostly underground, but also has three outdoor levels. Les Halles also has an outdoor, but covered stage area where free performances are offered. You can also get to Les Halles by the Metro stop Chatelet-Les Halles and the RER lines A, B, and D stop there at the Chatelet-Les Halles station. This year the largest Christmas Market is out at La Defense which lies outside of historic central Paris, but is easily reached using the Metro line 1 at the La Defense stop. Just be aware that it is located in zone 3. That is northwest outside of the central Paris Metro zones 1 and 2. RER line 3 also will take you there. For more information about the Christmas Markets including days and times open check the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau website https://en.parisinfo.com/discovering-paris/major-events/christmas-in-paris/christmas-markets-in-paris/christmas-markets-in-paris
I used this guide book and phrase book during my trip to Paris.
The following links are Amazon affiliate links.
Frommer’s Paris day by day: https://amzn.to/35ckbSA
Barron’s French at a Glance: https://amzn.to/2VLewjb
Lessons from the Camino
You can feel very alone at times on the Camino. Usually those times are during a crossing of a remote region far from a town or city. However, I have found that if you wait for a few minutes someone is bound to turn the corner. It’s an opportunity to meet new people. It’s also an opportunity for familiar faces to reappear again.
Lessons from the Camino
The Camino de Santiago is a network of hiking or pilgrimage trails starting in various places across Europe and converging on Santiago de Compostela in the Galician region of Spain. The length of distance and time varies depending on where the hiker or pilgrim begins the journey. Most people attempting the Camino for the first time attempt the Camino Frances. This route stretches from the French side of the Pyrenees mountains, runs across the northern half of Spain, and ends in the Spanish region of Galicia. There is even an extension of the route that stretches all the way to the Atlantic Ocean for those whose legs and bodies are still strong enough. For Catholics this hike has a religious component; however, plenty of hikers begin the journey for various non-religious reasons. I personally used the hike as an inexpensive way to explore roughly 500 miles of Spain and experience the Spanish culture.
The Camino can be a life enriching experience for many. I slowly realized over time while hiking on the Camino that the Camino itself is a lifetime of experiences compressed into a short window of time. During my thirty-two days walking the French Way of the Way of Saint James, I learned and relearned many lessons about how to be a good person and so much more. That was a few years ago now. I’ve been asked several times by friends and attendees to give lectures about my experiences, so I decided to write them down. I hope you enjoy these stories and life lessons from the Camino.
Take your time and enjoy the experience.
1) It’s a Camino
Some people, like myself early on, will see others in front of them and try to catch up or pass them. They will also try to stay ahead of other hikers or pilgrims on the Camino. This sort of competitive mentality can lead to a few negative outcomes. First, walking at someone else’s pace can lead to injuries due in part to carelessness or even the stress of walking at too fast a pace for long distances. Second, if you continue to walk at a faster than normal pace for yourself, then you will often find yourself looking down or only focused on what is immediately in front of you. Walking at what you consider your normal pace will allow you to observe your surroundings and soak in the scenery. More than likely you paid a lot of money to have the opportunity to walk the Camino. It’d be a shame if you spent the entire experience looking down at your feet. Remember it’s a Camino, not a race. You only live once. Enjoy it!
The Camino gives you plenty of opportunities to reflect on your experiences along the way.
2) The Dominican and the Nuns
During the first day of my Camino, I met a man from the Dominican Republic. It was his third time hiking the pilgrimage trail to Santiago de Compostela. He shared some advice with me and before I knew it we were hiking together. I noticed early on that this guy from the Dominican Republic was handy when it came to communicating with the local Spanish population, but he was socially a little rough around the edges. Without his help, I wouldn’t have been able to talk my way into a municipal pool on my second day of the Camino. However, he had a tendency to be a little bit of a jerk with an odd comment made here and there. Three days into the Camino we were hiking through the hot July afternoon heat. The Dominican urged me to hike to a town further down the trail than my intended destination. He had booked a room in hotel there and was hoping that I would split the cost with him. I had heard about an albergue run by nuns that I wanted to try which would let you ring the church bell in the evening. Albergues are pilgrim hostels along the Camino where hikers can stay in inexpensive dormitory style accommodations. The Dominican was solely focused on making it to his hotel a few towns away. I don’t know Spanish, but I am a fairly good judge of the tempo and tone of someone’s speech. I’m sure you are as well. I also know simple words like kilometers. Throughout that extremely hot day I heard the Dominican question the locals about the kilometers left until his destination. Each time a stranger answered with generally nice tones, but the Dominican would complain about it and throw a small fit. I had the feeling the number wasn’t going down enough or he just didn’t like the idea of how far it really was to his destination.
Finally after hours of walking through the heat and almost running out of water, I saw the sign for the albergue that I was looking for. After an attempt to get me to follow him instead of detouring to the albergue, the Dominican decided to continue on with me and to at least stop for a bit at the albergue and church. The day’s last bit of hiking was an uphill slog towards the albergue and church. I was starting to question if the Spanish believed in building churches anywhere but at the top of a hill. Upon our arrival we found the albergue locked with a sign telling up they would open again later in the afternoon. That was when I learned some albergues still shut down for a few hours in the mid-day so the workers could clean and take a break. The Dominican and I decided to walk over to a nearby patio area and sit down in some chairs. I ended up playing there with a very pregnant cat. As I was giving the cat some of my last remaining water, the nuns opened the door and said something in Spanish. The Dominican hopped to his feet and told me to follow. I followed him into the albergue and then into the kitchen. This nice little old nun had decided to let us into the albergue early, so that we could use the sink to get some water and get out of the heat. After sipping on what seemed to me like the coldest water ever, I heard the Dominican say something to the nun about kilometers. After her response, I heard the voice of the Dominican change tempo and tone. It was at this point that it dawned on me that the guy from the Dominican Republic was yelling at a nun as she was pointing to the door. The Dominican stormed past the nun back to the sink and filled up his water bottle one last time before marching over to the front door. By now a second little old nun had arrived and was helping the first nun get us out the door. In a very little amount of time the two nuns had gotten the guy from the Dominican ‘Republic out onto the front lawn. I watched from the front door of the albergue as the Dominican slammed his walking stick down onto the ground so hard that it actually bounced back up into the air. He caught his stick in the air then looked at me. He told me that he was leaving and asked if I was coming with him. I informed him that I was going to stay put. I watched as this guy whom I had just recently met stormed off for what I hoped would be the last time that I’d see him. It was at this point that the nuns turned to me with angry looks. The one that could speak English asked if I was going to follow my friend. I told her that friend was a strong word. I had only met him a few days ago and that I would like to stay if possible. I was allowed to stay at the albergue. Later I got to talking with the English speaking nun. She was surprised that I was nothing like the guy that I had arrived there with. This experience taught me that others will judge who I am as a person by the company that I keep. I also learned that it is better to be respectful, especially when it is someone that has showed you kindness.
The Camino de Santiago is a graveyard for shoes.
3) Blisters
I got a few blisters during my time on the Camino. One particular blister sticks out in my mind though. The blister started out as a small thing on the outside of my right big toe, but slowly got bigger. It eventually wrapped under my big toe and on to the inside edge of my big toe. Once the blister had wrapped all the way around my toe it became very hard to walk. In a way I had gotten used to the pain of walking on it, but I had noticed that I was going slower than I had intended. It was still relatively early in my journey. I was not yet seasoned in the art of dealing with blisters in a situation where there was little to no time for rest. I was getting all kinds of advice from pop that sucker and keep walking to if you pop it then it’ll get infected and your adventure will be over. I have to admit that I was very worried about spending all the time, money, and energy to start hiking the Camino de Santiago and then not be able to finish it. I finally broke down in the middle of a small town out in the middle of nowhere and went to the pharmacy. I purchased some hand sanitizer, a needle, some bandages, and medical tape. I made my way to the local albergue. I rented a private room at the albergue because I didn’t want to pop this huge blister in front of anyone. The blister had gotten to be the length of an American quarter and a few times the width of one. I cleared off my bed, laid out the tools of the trade, and made sure the door was locked. I told myself that if someone walked in they might think I was a drug addict. I carefully took off my socks and shoes as I sat down next to the needle still in its packaging. That was when I realized that I didn’t have scissors. After fighting with the packaging, I managed to get the needle out and ready for use. I carefully poked the blister on my right foot’s big toe with my left index finger as I examined it one last time. I felt the old familiar sting, but thought to myself, well here goes nothing. I applied some hand sanitizer to the needle and got to work. The blister was easy enough to pop. Fluid started oozing out as soon as the needle punctured the blister. I’ve never been a patient person and I wasn’t about to start then. Once the hole in the blister was definitely there, I applied just a tiny bit of pressure to the blister with my left index finger again. I felt the same pain, but this time something new happened. The fluid from the blister squirted up in the air through the hole and landed about a foot away. Yuck! Thankfully, the whole process of draining and cleaning the blister only took a few moments. After a few extra minutes in the morning of making sure the affected area was ready for hiking, I was off for the day with no residual pain. What did I learn from this experience? It taught me that I shouldn’t procrastinate dealing with a small problem. Small problems can become much bigger problems if they are not handled.
Every step brings you closer to Santiago de Compostela.
4) Going Up the Mountain
One day on the Camino de Santiago I was out in the middle of nowhere with what seemed like many more kilometers to go. I had been walking for hours already through the heat without even as much as little breeze to cool off. I was hot, tired, and already halfway through most of my one liter supply of water. I had no food or shade either. I found myself hiking up a steep hill all alone with absolutely no one in sight. In fact, I hadn’t seen anyone in long time awhile. It was at this point the thought of giving up crept into the back of my mind. All I wanted to do was stop and sit down, but I knew if I did then I wouldn’t get back up anytime soon. Then out of nowhere a gentle breeze started coming up from behind me. Suddenly I felt as if I was being pushed up the hill. I felt a sense of being re-energized and made it not only up that hill, but also to my destination that day. Don’t give up when discouraged or overwhelmed, things can change for the better when you least expect it.
We all have our weight to carry.
5) The Rock
One of the traditions on the Camino is to carry a small rock from your hometown on your journey. I heard that it often represents sins or baggage from your life at home. The goal is to carry your rock with you most of the Camino and then deposit it at the top of the Camino. This place is called the Cruz de Ferro or Iron Cross. It is basically a wooden pole about five feet high with a wooden cross. The rock mound at its base has been forming for years as pilgrims each contribute a stone on their Camino journey. The pile of rocks under the cross at this peak has become so large that you can climb up the pile. The rock that I carried with me had an interesting story, as I’m sure most of the rocks there had at one time. My rock wasn’t picked by me. Well before I departed my hometown for the Camino I had been introduced to my rock by my father. He shared a story with me. A woman he knew recently lost her husband to cancer. The hospital had an event for a new water fountain and had asked her to write her husband’s name on the rock. The goal was decorate the fountain with the names of those lost to cancer. The woman had heard from my father what I was doing. She asked him if I would place the rock at the highest point on the Way of St. James. Monte Irago is the highest point on the Way at 1520 meters (4987 feet) above sea level and is where the Cruz de Ferro is located. She thought her husband would rather me do that then her put the rock in the hospital’s fountain. I agreed without hesitating. I remember walking for hours each day with that little smooth rock. Most of the time the rock stayed deep down in my backpack, but it would occasionally see the light of day as I looked it over during a break or held it as I walked. It was a wonderful experience climbing the rocks at Cruz de Fiero and placing the rock onto the ancient rock pile. Another pilgrim took my photo so I could send it to the man’s widow. Later, after I returned from my Camino, my father told me how excited she was and how much it meant to her. This experience taught me that an act of kindness can sometimes carry a small bit of weight with it, but the weight will be nothing compared to the joy of spreading that kindness.
There is a lot to think about along the way to Santiago.
6) Karma is Real
While hiking the Camino de Santiago there are a few social norms or unwritten rules, if you will. One of the Camino’s social norms is that if you come into the albergue late or leave early then you should be as quiet as possible. Hikers often will be in bed at a decent hour in order to get their needed rest before another long day of walking. Those that get up early will usually be mostly packed the night before. What isn’t packed will be quietly taken out into the hallway where the noise is less likely to disturb others. However, I found that during the last 100 kilometers (62 miles) social norms like these will be violated at a greater frequency. Why? I’ll tell you why. I believe that many of the newbies that hike the bare minimum for their Compostela, or certificate of completion, don’t get a chance to be fully immersed in the culture of the Camino. They will violate norms that they do not know exist and will sometimes learn the hard way.
During my first night sleeping on the last 100 kilometer stretch I ran into a situation with some really annoyingly loud newbies. We’re talking they were stumbling in drunk at almost midnight and talking loudly without regard for those of us already in bed trying to sleep. I like to consider myself to be a nice person, but I wasn’t having very nice thoughts about those fools. I distinctly remember telling myself that I’d pay them back at 4 AM which is when I was already planning to wake up. That’s exactly what I did. My alarm went off at 4 AM on the dot. I rolled out of bed and put my headlamp on. After making multiple trips to the bathroom and back for something else out of my bag that I “forgot,” I packed up my bag as loudly as I could while inside the room. I may have also “accidently” looked around the room several times with my headlamp red lens on because I was “looking for something.” I remember one of the obnoxious newbies sat up in his bed and looked at me with amazement that someone was up so early. I couldn’t help but think “Welcome to the Camino” and then went on my way to hike while it was still cool outside. Those newbies hopefully learned to be more respectful when coming back to the room late. I also learned that I apparently hold grudges. In hindsight, I need to learn to let things go. Shining my flashlight around at 4 AM after the newbies came in loudly at 11 PM was probably more unkind than needed. I should have offered them the respect I had wished for when they were disruptive coming in late at night. As you hike the Camino one thing you are reminded of from time to time is that respect for others is important in daily life.
The world is full of beautiful moments.
7) Free Wine
There is a winery on the French Way of the Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims are welcome to stop and make use of the two taps on the outside of the building. One tap has wonderfully refreshing water. The other has wonderfully refreshing wine. Both are completely free, but the area didn’t have any shade when I was there. It is a great place to take a few extra moments to relax, talk with those you are walking with, or even meet other hikers stopping for a drink of water or wine. Most people stop for the free wine. During my time at the winery, I got to know three people from England. I also met some other people there as well. Over the wine, I heard stories of past Caminos from the veteran hikers and shared some of my stories. I learned from our conversations, it is better to take life slow, enjoy the moment, and that we are all much more similar than we are different. I also learned from the veteran hikers the danger of drinking too much of the wine with so much hiking left to do that day. I guess you can say moderation is key.
Find someone to share the journey with.
8) You’re Never Alone
You can feel very alone at times on the Camino. Usually those times are during a crossing of a remote region far from a town or city. However, I have found that if you wait for a few minutes someone is bound to turn the corner. It’s an opportunity to meet new people. It’s also an opportunity for familiar faces to reappear again. Some of these people will stop and talk to you without you making an effort, some will only stop if you make an effort to talk with them, some will simply say Buen Camino or hello, and some will not say a word to you. I learned that people will come and go in life. Sometimes making an effort to get to know them helps keep them around and sometimes it doesn’t. That’s okay, because we are all walking our own paths in life. I also learned that loneliness can be temporary if you make an effort to let others in.
The Way of Saint James took this pilgrim right through an ancient ruin.
9) Many Paths in Life
There are many different routes on the Camino de Santiago. They all end at the same place. The city of Santiago de Compostela is where everyone is headed. Some hikers start in far away cities or towns. Some will start at the bare minimum of 100 kilometers away. Each path holds its own challenges and experiences. I think looking at the paths to Santiago de Compostela and deciding which one to take is like looking at and deciding which of the many paths in life to take. There were many times that I had to make a decision to go this way or that way. It was those decisions that helped shape my Camino. I recommend only planning how to get to the starting point you want. Then just go with the flow and let life unfold in front of you until you make it to Santiago de Compostela.
Keep moving toward your goals.
10) Don’t Give Up
I’ll never forget crossing the Pyrenees mountains on my first day of the Camino de Santiago. As I stumbled into my first albergue in Spain sore, tired, and aching. I couldn’t help feeling that there was no way that I could ever reach my goal of walking to Santiago de Compostela. At one point I even went so far as to strongly consider hopping onto a train to where I could walk the bare minimum of 100 kilometers and spending a few weeks exploring the rest of Spain. I began to give up on the whole adventure because the first day was much harder than I had thought. I woke up the next morning feeling a little better than the night before. I was still a little sore, but I decided to just go for it. I realized that I couldn’t let one tough challenge or one bad day keep me from the goals that I want to achieve. If the goal was so easy that I could achieve it in a day, then I was setting my expectations too low. The best things in life require effort, time, dedication, grit, and determination. Do not give up on something because it is hard to do. Set goals and checkpoints on how you plan on making those goals happen.
Sometimes there is no escaping the sun.
11) Kindness
I did not have an international data plan for my cell phone most of my time on the Camino de Santiago. One July day on the Meseta, I started walking early in the morning. It quickly became hotter and hotter as the day reached about noon. I began to realize how insanely hot it was compared to all the previous days that I had been hiking. Many of the hikers that had rushed past me earlier in the morning were now resting under any shade that they could find. I continued on past them. I was making good time for the day, but I was also depleting my water and food supply at an alarming rate. I began to show some of the classic signs of heat injury to include sweating less and less and my skin starting to feel hot to the touch. It wasn’t more than a few hours later that I stumbled into the next town with only a small amount of water left. Then I saw it. Like a mirage on some silly Saturday morning cartoon, I saw a cafe that was open. I made my way through the front door and got a menu. The staff at the cafe directed me to sit down at a small table under a fan away from the other customers. I figured that I smelled something fierce, but then something odd happened. The workers at the cafe brought me water and various snacks. They told me that it was free. The cafe staff didn’t have to give me anything for free. I was so desperate that I was willing to probably pay many times over the actual value of the bill. They showed me, a complete stranger, kindness even though it cost them money. Apparently, there had been a heat advisory put out with a warning to not hike in the area that day. With no international data, I didn’t see the weather updates before I had started out hiking that day. This experience showed me that kindness won’t always be convenient for you. It also showed me that giving what you can is all you need to do to show kindness. I’ll always be grateful for the staff workers that day. I try to pay it forward whenever I can.
It’s a group effort to make it to the end of the Camino.
12) Help Others
There were countless ways of helping others on the Camino de Santiago. I would like to simply hit upon three instances that I saw during my time along the way.
It might not come as a shock to many of you, but it can get very hot in Spain on the Camino de Santiago. The Mesta can get especially hot as there is less shade. I found that many locals in rural areas with a home on the trail would leave water out in sealed jugs for anyone walking by. The idea was simple. Take what you needed to fill up your water source and leave what you don’t need for someone else. Sharing is definitely caring and although I never had to take any of the free water, I felt a little safer knowing that it was often there. It is wonderful that there were people around me that went out of their way to be so helpful for complete strangers.
Many people along the way were carrying something that they thought they would need at the beginning of the Camino de Santiago and realized they didn’t need the item after all. More often than not, the albergues where the pilgrims or hikers would sleep would have a box somewhere in the building where people could rid themselves of this extra weight. The boxes acted somewhat like the leave a penny, take a penny system at many convenience stores in America. One hiker or pilgrim might no longer have a need for that extra hat, shirt, or book, but another hiker might really need that item.
Along the Camino de Santiago hikers and pilgrims will undoubtedly find messages from someone that had been through the area days, weeks, or maybe even years before. Almost all of the messages that I stumbled upon were either words of encouragement or self reflection and wisdom that the person wanted to pass on. I’d like to focus on one of my favorite messages which came at a time when I needed the encouragement. I had been walking on pavement on the side of a mountain road for some time in the heat under the sun. I have to be honest and say that at that time I was spending more time looking somewhat down as I was in trying to power through to the next place where I could take a break. Then all of the sudden I spotted a message written in chalk on the pavement right in front of me. The message said in English, “I don’t know who you are, but I love you. Keep going. You can do this.” I still tear up thinking about that moment. That encouragement helped me get through not only that hard day, but so many hard long days after it.
Those three experiences showed me that our acts of kindness can immediately impact another person’s life and continue to impact lives long after the act itself is over.
It was a long and difficulty journey, but I made it with the help of others that I met along the way.
In summary, it’s the Journey, not the Destination.
Many of the people I met along the way on the Camino believed that if they completed the Camino de Santiago that their sins would be forgiven. It is part of their Catholic faith. Obsession is probably too strong a word, but this belief created among a few of them a strong desire to just make it to the end in Santiago de Compostela. In my personal opinion, those people missed the whole point of the Camino de Santiago as it exists today and maybe during its whole existence. If your sins are truly forgiven for completing the Camino de Santiago, I believe it is the trials and tribulations that a hiker goes through during their journey which does that and not simply making it to the end as if you were like beating the boss at the end of a video game. I often saw people with this mindset walking looking straight ahead to the horizon or down at their feet as they tried to walk as fast as they could. The problem with that for me is that by focusing so much on walking and getting to the end is that you forget to live in the now and experience the glory of life all around you. By walking slower on the Camino I was able to soak in the scenery, meet more people, share more experiences, test who I am as a person, and explore a country and culture that I spent so much money, time, and effort to see. The Camino is a lot like life. Every single one of us walking the Camino started the hike knowing that there was a physical end to the trail. No matter where you started we all finish at some point. For some, that end came earlier than they thought by means of an injury or running out of time. For others, that end got extended a little further out by finding the will to walk past Santiago de Compostela all the way to the sea. Instead of focusing so much on the ultimate end, perhaps the focus should be more on enjoying the company of those around you, making an impact on the world, and living life to the fullest while you are still here. Walking the Camino helped me realize that it isn’t about how you die, it’s about how you lived.
My guidebook held up pretty well over the whole month long experience. The guidebook has been updated since I’ve walked the Camino de Santiago.
Thinking about hiking the Camino de Santiago? Consider picking up a copy of the guidebook that I used to help plan my Camino. It includes many things you will need to be successful.
The following link is an Amazon affiliate link.
John Brierly’s A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago: https://amzn.to/32VviN9
Day Trip to Nikko, Japan
I highly recommend taking time to visit Nikko during your stay in Japan. It is worth at least one day to see the impressive waterfalls and visit the shrines. It is truly one of the really beautiful areas of the country and within a reasonable driving distance from Tokyo.
I highly recommend taking time to visit Nikko during your stay in Japan. It is worth at least one day to see the impressive waterfalls and visit the shrines. It is truly one of the really beautiful areas of the country and within a reasonable driving distance from Tokyo. Here are some important points to consider for your visit there.
It’s hard to get this view on a tour bus.
Transportation to Nikko from Tokyo
Transportation is always a major consideration for any trip. An important cost issue when taking a tour in Japan is the cost of the transportation and of having a tour guide to help explain what you are seeing. Questions such as how will you get to see what you want to see and whether you would like or need a guide are important factors to decide on. Unless you are renting a car or paying for a private use vehicle with a driver, then the best ways to travel to places like Nikko are going by either a tour bus or by booking a semi-private vehicle. The tour bus option usually comes with one to two guides, covers any basic entry fees, and is often quite reasonably priced. As you might expect, the semi-private vehicle costs more than taking the tour bus. The semi-private vehicle’s driver is usually just that, a driver, not a tour guide. You might luck out and get a driver that doubles as a tour guide, however that could cause the cost of the semi-private vehicle to go up. There are several pluses to using a semi-private vehicle, but using one does make your excursion cost more. The cost difference between these two transportation options can range from as little as $50.00 to over $200.00 or more depending on where you are trying to go and how long you plan on being at the location(s).
Carefully considering the costs of an experience for a budget traveler is important, but it is always good to balance the cost of an experience against the cost of the actual execution of obtaining that experience. Always remember you travel a long way to see and experience different places and cultures, so keep in mind that it is important to know what you can physically handle at any time. Think about how the cost of what you do affects the experience you are aiming to achieve.
Remember when you consider the cost of the tour bus to include the cost you will pay to get yourself to the bus designated pick-up location and on your return the cost of getting from the drop-off points to your hotel or place you are staying in. Japanese taxis are not cheap, but can take you to the exact pickup location you need to be at to meet your big bus tour operator. Subways are another option, but using them requires more pre-planning to determine: which line(s) to use; where the closest station is to the pick up location; and how long it will take to walk from the subway station to the pick up location.
A driver that doubles as a tour guide can be a good deal.
Comfort vs cost equation considerations
When paying for a private or semi-private (meaning shared with a few others) van you are essentially paying for more personal space, more comfortable seats, and a driver that is usually more willing to be a bit more flexible with time management at the locations you will be visiting. The van itself will also naturally be able to park in areas where a tour bus could never park. So sometimes from a van you will have less of a walk to the location from the parking lot. In addition, the private or semi-private vehicle cost may or may not include the admission fees. Be sure to check on whether or not these are included. In a bus tour most attraction’s admission fees are included in the price of the bus excursion.
Taking a big bus tour to visit locations definitely helps save some money on the price of your sightseeing and experiences in Japan. You’ll also be more than likely have a dedicated tour guide or maybe two for your whole tour group. In Japan, a tour guide can be handy when it comes to explaining information about what you are visiting or when the next chance to obtain food is or where is the nearest restroom.
The essential question that you have to ask yourself is this: does the money I’ll save by being on a tour bus and having a tour guide outweigh the time savings and cost of being picked up and dropped off at your hotel and having much more comfortable seats? When considering bus versus smaller vehicle tours, I recommend taking into account things such as do you have a family with small children or anyone with mobility issues. If either of those situations apply to you, you might prefer using a semi private or private van tour provider. A smaller vehicle can mean more flexibility to your tour day. A smaller vehicle means you are sharing your tour experience with fewer people which in turn usually means it can be quicker to get to a site, into the actual site, and back out again. Also, if you want to linger at a particular location or a portion of it, then you can usually do so without feeling rushed or being left behind by your tour group. You can also often do some adjusting regarding how long you visit somewhere or at what time you need to leave Nikko to return to Tokyo with your driver.
One plus to taking a big bus tour can be the opportunity to meet other people interested in seeing the same things as you. As a solo traveler, I have found a tour bus sometimes gives you a chance to meet and talk with people with similar interests about their travel experiences and tips. In the past, it has even worked out that I could meet up with someone at another time or day for lunch or dinner. It can be a nice change to not eat solo every so often on your trip.
When to go to Nikko
It’s not like you can’t visit this place year round, but there are times of year that you might prefer over others. I visited the Nikko area in August. It was warm with great weather for my trip there. If your only travel availability is during the summer, then I recommend going on any day with nice weather. However, Nikko is very popular during autumn because of the changing colors of the leaves. When I went in August there were other tourists there, but most places that I visited in Nikko were not completely overrun with tourists. The only exception to that was the Toshogu Shrine. That place was crawling with tourists. From everything I have heard about it, it is very popular and very beautiful throughout the year. Just be aware that if you are headed to Nikko in autumn, to be prepared for the large crowds also trying to see waterfalls surrounded by the autumn colors.
Kegon Falls almost seems unreal at first.
See the waterfalls!
The Kegon Falls are listed on Japan’s top 100 waterfalls for a reason. This waterfall is thought to be one of the top three Japanese most beautiful waterfalls. Kegon Falls is an almost 100 meter waterfall. This high waterfall is the only exit for the waters of Lake Chuzenji and as such has a pretty impressive waterflow. It is a popular place to view autumn colors, especially toward the end of October; however, viewing Kegon Falls is still a powerful sight to behold during the summer. A fun fact to know is that during most winters, Kegon Falls actually freezes almost completely solid. There is a free platform to view the falls, but I highly recommend taking the 100 meter deep elevator which does have an admission charge to get the best view of the falls. The cost for the elevator to the viewing platform is not much, but the view is much more impressive from the platform accessed through the elevator. For a nice lightweight and easy to carry souvenir of your visit to the Falls use some of your Japanese yen to buy a pin with the waterfall on it.
The pin is inexpensive and easy to bring home as a souvenir.
The Ryuzu Falls Park is a great place to soak in the ambience of the area.
The Ryuzu Falls Park is located near Lake Chuzenji. It has a walking path alongside the length of the approximately 210 meter falls. There is a gain or loss of about 60 meters, so it is somewhat steep to climb up or walk down. When you are standing at the top of the falls you are 1,355 meters above sea level. I visited the Ryuzu Cascade Terrace during the summer, but I bet the best time to visit these falls would be during autumn. The path and waterfall is lined with trees. There is a parking lot at the top of the cascades and at the bottom. I recommend that you start at the top and walk down. There is also a shop at the bottom for souvenirs and food.
The Toshogu Shrine is a popular tourist stop.
Visit Toshogu Shrine
The Toshogu Shrine is a popular stop among tourists visiting the area. Do not be surprised if the place is packed with people. The shrine’s complex is very big and demands a large amount of your day if you wish to explore every part of it. I recommend planning on arriving early in the day or later in the afternoon. The crowds at the Toshogu Shrine during the midday were too large to allow for comfortable exploration of the whole shrine area.
The Toshogu Shrine contains elements of both Shinto and Buddhism. This shrine is actually the final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Tokugawa Shogunate ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868. In this shrine, there are more than a half dozen separate buildings. One of the most impressive to see is the Yomeimon Gate. This gate is a very ornate structure. It features very intricate decorations and many different architectural features.
Many of the shrine’s buildings are covered with elaborate wood carvings and gold leaf. An interesting wood carving on one of the shrine buildings depicts the famous three monkeys of See no evil, Speak no evil, and Hear no evil. Gold leaf is used throughout this shrine. The use of so much gold leaf means this shrine looks quite elaborate. Its use is unusual as most Japanese shrines are much simpler.
The Futarasan Shrine is a beautiful place to explore.
Visit Futarasan Shrine
The Futarasan Shrine is a much simpler shrine than the Toshogu Shrine. Futarasan Shrine honors the three deities of Nikko’s sacred mountains: Mount Nantai; Mount Nyoho; and Mount Taro. This shrine is very ancient having been founded in 782. Its founder was Shodo Shonin, the Buddist monk who introduced Buddhism to Nikko. But, the shrine is actually a Shinto shrine. The grounds of this shrine contain several sacred cedar trees. These trees are thought to be around 1000 years old. It is said that these tall ancient trees stretch up toward heaven. When you look up at them, it is easy to believe that since they are so tall. There is a beautiful main worship hall (Honden) and several other smaller shrine rooms. Behind the shrine itself is a pleasant garden to stroll through and enjoy seeing an outdoor Japanese garden.
The Futarasan Shrine is a lot less crowded than those in Tokyo.
Mount Fuji for First Timers
Unless you plan on taking everything with you on your hike up Mount Fuji, you’ll need somewhere to put everything you won’t need on the mountain. There are three options that I saw being used.
Mount Fuji for First Timers
There is nothing like watching the sunrise over the clouds.
Preparing To Climb
I recommend physically and mentally preparing for your climb. You should also consider consulting a physician if you are at all worried about how this hike could affect your health. There are a few different things you can do to prepare for your hike. I recommend mixing up your training between workouts in the gym with hiking outdoors or up and down stairs with a weighted pack. Start off light then gradually add weight until you are comfortable carrying the amount of weight you will carry while climbing Mount Fuji. Be sure to add time or distance to your hikes as you get more fit. After all, you will be hiking up Mount Fuji for several hours or even for a couple of days.
A little bit of knowledge can make getting to the summit a lot easier.
Do Your Research Before You Hike
My trip to Japan was a last minute trip with very little planning. I paid dearly for that while trying to get around Tokyo. However, I did have enough time to purchase several guidebooks that helped me get by. The one guidebook that helped my more than any other with my Mount Fuji ascent was Richard Reay’s fourth edition of Climbing Mount Fuji. It was very useful for a last minute trip like mine, but could have been so much more useful if I had more time to plan. There are also plenty of resources out there on places like YouTube.
Acting like making it to 3,200 meters wasn’t a struggle. It was.
Self-Climbs vs Guided Climbs
There are a few pros and cons to doing a self-climb or doing a guided climb. Both options make sense depending on the time of year, skill level of the climber making the attempt, language skills of the climber, and schedule flexibility of the climber. No matter which option you go with, it is always a good idea to have a hiking partner.
Hiking among the clouds
Self-Climbs
In most cases this option can be the cheapest of the two; however, it will also require more pre-planning. For a self-climb the hiker must plan the route to get to Mount Fuji. If you have some experience with the Japanese rail/bus system then the transportation to Mount Fuji can be done with a small amount of forethought. However, a lack of Japanese language skills can make it a little more difficult reserving a mountain hut for a two day climb or renting hiking gear that you forgot or could not bring with you. If you run into trouble on the mountain, then there is no one to translate for you unless you are hiking with someone that can speak Japanese. Self-climbs are more freeing in that you can plan to ascend and descend on the same route or descend down another route for a change in scenery.
Guided climbs can get a bit crowded.
Guided Climbs
In most cases this option can prove to make the experience less difficult as the only real thing you will most likely have to accomplish is hiking up the mountain. Most companies will take care of the planning, transportation, booking the mountain hut accommodations, providing guides that speak your language and Japanese, arranging meals, and if you’re lucky something relaxing like a hot spring afterwards. However, selecting a guided climb will ensure that you are no longer flexible with the date you are going to make your attempt. Guided climbs can also mean a large group going up together.
My group about to make our final push to the summit.
Safety
Mount Fuji is still considered an active volcano. It is just one of over a hundred live volcanoes in Japan. The last time Mount Fuji erupted was in the early 1700’s. However, there was a much more recent eruption at Mount Ontake, Japan’s second tallest volcano. It is located a little over 60 miles from Mount Fuji and in 2014 that eruption killed many hikers. When Mount Ontake erupted it was at the lowest level on the risk scale for an eruption and at the same level as what Mount Fuji is currently. Please understand that there is a risk in hiking Mount Fuji, but also know that the mountain is being monitored and the likelihood of an unforeseen eruption is slight. For the latest updates, weather warnings, natural disaster warnings, daily weather updates, and more take a look at the Japan Meteorological Agency’s website https://www.jma.go.jp/jma/indexe.html.
Altitude sickness is no joke on Mount Fuji. Symptoms can vary person to person. I personally got slight headaches a couple times that wouldn’t go away until I took altitude sickness medication. I recommend drinking plenty of water, giving your body time to acclimatize to the altitude gain, take your time hiking up the mountain, and if necessary, using an oxygen canister or altitude sickness medication.
I recommend that if you are planning a solo day hike then be in the best shape possible and do not start from the fifth station later than 07:00 AM. I also recommend limiting your hiking at night unless you are experienced and know what you are doing. There were more than a few steep drop offs along the trail.
Not much farther to go!
Climber Etiquette
Those that are hiking up the shy mountain have priority over those descending. If possible, please get off to the side and allow those going up to pass you on your way down. I recommend taking breaks along the way. If you take a break, then do so on one of the sides of the trail or in a place where you do not block other hikers. Fires and littering are absolute no nos on Mount Fuji. Please do not do either. In recent years there has been a major push to clean up Mount Fuji. I highly encourage you to leave no trace as you spend time on the shy mountain. Do not deviate from marked paths and stay off the tractor routes. Those tractors are how supplies are brought up to the mountain huts and how the rubbish is brought down off the mountain.
It takes some strong legs to make it through the volcanic sand.
Subashiri Route
Most people no matter what route they take start at the fifth station of that particular route. I was no different. Most people that I met took the Yoshida route due to the beginner level difficulty, how easy it is to get to Yoshida’s fifth station, and the fact that it is the best maintained of all the routes. However, I used the Subashiri route. I really enjoyed the parts of the Subashiri route like passing through the forest and the great views when the clouds went away. My absolute favorite part was going outside at night and early morning while staying in one of the mountain huts on the trail. The clouds were gone and I could see for miles. The city lights from as far away as Tokyo could be seen. It was a truly beautiful sight to behold. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures, so you’re going to have to climb Mount Fuji to see for yourself.
There are a couple downsides to the Subashiri route that I feel obligated to warn you about. First, if you go on a weekday you won’t have to deal with the crowds really until about the eighth station where the Subashiri and Yoshida trails merge, I never found the trail in the forest hard to navigate, but it might be difficult during fog or at night. The sand section on the decent is a killer if your legs are not conditioned or are already tired. There were times during the sand section that I would take a step and slide another couple inches. It got to the point where at times I felt as if I was skiing or ice skating. Also, I suggest topping off your water before you begin the sand run part of the descent. You won’t have another chance to visit another hut until you complete this portion of the mountain.
Imagine trying to walk through here at night without a light.
Mountain Huts
The mountain huts are spread out along the different routes. They typically offer some services other than a place to rest. If you do not have a walking stick, then I recommend you pick up a traditional wooden walking stick at the fifth station when you begin your journey. This is an awesome souvenir to have as you can pay money along the way to get stamps added to your walking stick. Each hut will either have a sticker or a stamp to add to your walking stick. Each marker will be added over the last one. Eventually the stamp you obtain at the summit will be the topmost stamp on your walking stick. When you return to the fifth station you can have your stick cut if there is any excess wood left without stamps. Having your hiking stick cut shorter will make it easier to get it home. Another service these mountain huts offer would be selling food and drinks. As mentioned above, if you give the person back the empty bottle you bought from them at that hut then they will take it from you. However, if you walk off with an empty bottle then you will be carrying it for the rest of your hike. Last but definitely not least these huts will offer toilets, but they will cost you. Most of the toilets I used cost around 200 yen, so remember to bring coins. I must warn you that some of the toilets are squat toilets and some are western toilets. Just imagine trying to use a squat toilet if your legs are tired and sore and you aren’t used to using a squat toilet. I recommend using the toilets at every opportunity to avoid any mishaps.
The sleeping accommodations can be cramped inside the huts.
Mount Fuji offers different kinds of terrain and weather that can change without warning.
Hiking Equipment Recommendations
Do not attempt to climb Mount Fuji without breaking in your hiking shoes or boots, a lightsource, water, and proper clothing.
I recommend using hiking shoes with some leg gaiters. The gaiters will help keep the volcanic dust and rocks out of your hiking shoes. I didn’t use gaiters when I hiked Mount Fuji. The lack of gaiters didn’t really bother me on the way up. However, I paid for it while I was descending. The amount of volcanic dust and rocks that I took out of my shoes during the descent could of filled a large coffee mug. Also, the interior of my shoes, my socks, and toes were covered in volcanic dust for days even after cleaning all three multiple times a day. I’m still not sure if I will end up trashing my hiking shoes. I just keep finding more volcanic dust every time I use them. To sum it up, use gaiters.
I recommend using a headlamp. Anyone that has gone camping or hiking in the dark will tell you having a headlamp will make things easier compared to using a traditional handheld flashlight. Since I was using a headlamp while I hiking to the summit in the dark, I was also able to use my walking stick and get water without having to stop and rearrange things.
I used a camelbak as my water source while on Mount Fuji. I highly recommend you do the same if you plan on refilling your water at each station along the way. The workers at the mountain huts will only take trash from you if it is something you purchased from them. If you use a camelbak, then you can refill your camelbak in front of the workers or nearby and return the empty bottle to the worker. This will drastically cut down on the amount of space being used in your backpack for trash.
Consider using a backpack with a capacity of at least 25 liters. Do not fill it all the way up, so you have room for trash and souvenirs at the summit. Most backpacks are not waterproof, so bring a cover for your backpack or at least a waterproof bag to store items inside your backpack.
I won’t go into too much detail for clothing, however I will mention a few things.
Dress in layers. During my push the summit I was able to warm up and cool off pretty much on command by dressing in layers.
Bring waterproof gloves. Thankfully I didn’t need mine too much, because it only rained lightly a couple times. I mostly used mine during the early morning push to the summit when I felt cold.
Bring a hat. I saw some that opted for a large brim hat to protect themselves from the sun. I opted to spend most of the time hiking with a trucker hat. I used a fleece skull cap during my early morning push for the summit.
Bring water resistant and waterproof clothing with a hood. These clothing items can serve as an outer layer and as protection from the elements.
The huts will sell you basic things like snacks and drinks.
Recommended Extras
I decided to include a list of a few things that the first time hiker might not think about. I hope it helps. I would love to hear from other hikers as to what items they would recommend the first time hiker take with him or her.
Camera
Although it is not entirely necessary to bring a camera to enjoy Mount Fuji, it is nice to have one to document the experience. How often are you going to be in the area and have the opportunity to experience a sunrise at the summit of Mount Fuji above the clouds?
Ear Plugs and a Face Mask
I tend to be a heavy sleeper, but you might not be. If you are a light sleeper and plan on staying a night inside one of the mountain huts, then you’ll want to bring ear plugs and a mask to cover your eyes. The sleeping conditions inside the hut I stayed in consisted of sleeping on a pad laid out over wood, a sleeping bag, and a small pillow. There was no personal space for most of the people sleeping in the hut. I was lucky and slept on the end with a few empty spots next to me, so I had some room. I wouldn’t count on you being so lucky, especially on a weekend when more people are able to hike.
Photo Copies of Your Medical and Insurance documents
Photocopies of your important documents could play a crucial role in seeing that you get aid as quickly as possible if you are unconscious and/or hurt.
Trash Bags
Trash bags can be useful in a few different ways. You can use them to secure any trash you might accumulate during your hike. They can be used to hold any dirty laundry you might have if you are making a two day trek and brought a spare change of clothes. They can also be used, if big enough, to act as a cheap alternative to a waterproof bag to line the interior of your backpack if you get rain while hiking Mount Fuji.
Spending Money
Beyond bringing coins for the bathrooms, you might want to bring some extra cash to spend on souvenirs or at least some drinks or food along the way. Personally, I like to think of my photographs as my souvenirs, but I still found myself buying a couple pins at the summit with the date stamped on them.
Sunscreen and Sunglasses
You will need protection from the sun while hiking. If it isn’t cloudy and raining, most of your hiking will have you exposed to the sun.
The lockers at Gotemba are really close to where the busses arrive and depart from.
What To Do With Your Extra Gear
Unless you plan on taking everything with you on your hike up Mount Fuji, you’ll need somewhere to put everything you won’t need on the mountain. There are three options that I saw being used. First, if you are planning to hike it all in a day then leaving your excess stuff in a locker at a place like Gotemba Outlets makes sense. The outlet mall has a bus station with buses that can take you to places like Tokyo. However, I do not really recommend that option to hikers planning to make Mount Fuji a two day experience. Instead I recommend leaving your gear at the hotel you will be staying at afterwards or paying the extra money for the night you won’t actually be in that hotel. I chose to leave my stuff at the hotel. I made a reservation at the hotel for the nights before and after my hike up Mount Fuji. The staff at my hotel were accommodating when I made it clear that I was coming back for another night. I did not do what other hikers did and pay for a night in a hotel just to act as a storage locker. Also you can ask your tour guide if you have one, if they provide storage for items while you are hiking. My tour guide did, but it was small and for everyone that was going.
A little bit of reading can save you a lot of time and effort later.
Recommended Reading
The follow link is an Amazon affiliate link.
Climbing Mt. Fuji (4th Edition) : https://amzn.to/2zvoKvA
Ten Experiences To Have in Tokyo
A local tour guide once told me that for the Japanese shopping for chopsticks is like shopping for the right pair of sneakers. Everyone in the household has at least a pair of their own and each of them must be tried on before purchasing.
Ten Experiences To Have In Tokyo
I highly recommend ending your day by taking a cruise on the bay.
If you’ve never been to Tokyo, then the idea of planning what to do can be utterly overwhelming at times. The city itself is massive. I had about ten days to spend in Tokyo during the summer of 2019. The trip was completely last minute, which is not my style, so little planning went into it, As one traveler mentioned to me while I was in Tokyo, you can spend two weeks in Tokyo itself and still not experience or see everything. As it turns out, I couldn’t agree more. In that spirit, I came up with ten experiences that you should consider while visiting Tokyo. Understand that this isn’t a comprehensive list. It’s just ten things that I personally got to do and I think you should give them a shot if you’re struggling to decide on your itinerary. I’d love to hear what you experienced and would recommend in Tokyo.
The big bus tour guides can be a great resource for understanding what each neighborhood is known for.
1. One Day Bus Tour
I can already hear my friends and readers screaming out no in my mind upon reading that I just recommended a bus tour of Tokyo. I was originally skeptical too. Hear me out. I met a guy from England that made a good case for it while I was sitting through the bus ride and felt like I was being ushered along like cattle at each stop. If you have a day to spare, then a one day bus tour actually makes sense in a city you’ve never been to before. It allows you to hit a few highlights and decide what you’d like to explore more later. The bus tour also can allow you to meet other travelers if you’re like me and traveling solo. If you have a good guide you might even get some knowledge dropped on you from time to time. The whole experience showed me some things that I wanted to explore more, even more things that I didn’t need to waste anymore time seeing, and in addition, I met a couple other travelers. I used Viator to find a tour operator called Japan Panoramic Tours and had an overall good experience with them. If a one day bus tour of Japan is something you’re interested in, then you might want to consider using them.
Using the touch screens can add a bit more understanding to what you are seeing outside.
2. Tokyo Skytree
There are a surprising amount of things to do in the world’s largest broadcasting tower. You can grab a snack at the Skytree Cafe, eat a meal with a great view at the Sky Restaurant, walk out onto a transparent 12mm thick glass floor, have a commemorative photo taken by a professional, buy some souvenirs, take a guided tour, and of course, enjoy the view. If you’re like me, then the view is what you want. I recommend going on a clear day with as little haze as possible. Why? Because it isn’t just any view you want to pay the big money for. If you’re lucky and the weather is just right, you can see from the observation deck Mount Fuji 106 kilometers or almost 66 miles away. Unfortunately, the shy mountain as it is sometimes called, is often surrounded by clouds blocking it from view. Be sure to grab a map with the points of interest labeled or use one of the touchscreens to know what you are looking at. Otherwise the 360 degree view is somewhat overwhelming on a clear day and it might be difficult to know what you’re actually viewing. Remember, Tokyo is a massive city after all.
Meet the Japanese Statue of Liberty!
3. Visit Odaiba and Cruise on Tokyo Bay
In a city with an estimated population of just over nine million it can sometimes be difficult for travelers to find a bit of peace on the often crowded streets with so many tourist stops everywhere. Odiba is itself not the answer to finding some peace and quiet, but we will get to that in a minute. There is actually a lot to do in Odaiba from the many cultural heritage festivals, concerts, places to stop at like the Gundam cafe, a digital art museum, a marine park where you can find tourists and locals hanging out, and many other things to see and experience. By the way, did you know Tokyo has its own statue of liberty? It’s found on Odaiba. With all those fun things going on it might be hard to realize that a relaxing quiet few minutes can be found closer than you think. Odaiba, for the uninitiated, is an island. There are a few ways to get to Odaiba, but my personal favorite is taking the ferry. The ferry to and from Odaiba isn’t a long ride, but with good weather the top deck offers a peaceful and beautiful view of the Rainbow bridge and the Tokyo shorefront. Be sure to wave as you pass by other boats.
Prayers from locals are on display at this shrine in Tokyo.
4. Visit a Buddist Temple or Shinto Shrine
The topic of which Buddist Temples and Shinto Shrines to visit in Tokyo could easily be blog article or even a series in itself. However, I want to focus more on a simple explanation of what they are, how are they different, and why you should visit both in this article.
Avoid the crowds by arriving before the midday tour bus rush.
Japanese Buddist temples and Shinto shrines are centers of worship for their respective religions. I don’t think I need to go too far into that right now. Just please be aware of that and be respectful when visiting them. Please stay out of the way. Do not cause a distraction during ceremonies, especially if you’re an American. The last thing we Americans need is to do is reinforce the old stereotype that we are loud and rude.
There are signs explaining how to do some of the rituals for those who can read the instructions.
Both the temples and shrines can appear similar. That is in part due to the many years of Buddhism and Shintoism coexisting side by side together in Japan. However, simply put there is a good rule of thumb to tell the two apart. Buddist temples mostly tend to be austere and modest. Shinto shrines tend to be more colorful. The same can be said, as much as any general statement, concerning the dress of the monks. If the monk is dressed modestly, there is a good chance you are in a Buddist temple. If the priest is dressed a little showy or flashy, you will then know you are probably at a Shinto shrine. When in doubt, ask! I was surprised by how many people had a basic working knowledge of English.
Please remember these places are places of worship.
I recommend visiting a few Buddest temples and Shinto shrines in Tokyo. Of course there are big ones that you should definitely visit such as the Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji. However, be aware that there are so many smaller ones tucked away in neighborhoods and even in office parks that you could visit as you walk through an area. You’ll find more tourists than not at the big temples and shrines just like any other “must see” spot. You’ll find everyday people living in Tokyo when you visit the smaller ones. I found that the smaller temples, shrines, and places of worship reminded me that these religions are still being practiced right now. I also felt just a little more connected to the city as a whole after visiting them.
I’ve never understood why you would take a picture of the artwork.
5. Visit a Museum
Often visiting a museum is a good way to ease into gaining a different perspective of the place you spent so much time and money to visit and explore. Tokyo is no different. I had time to explore one museum while I was in Tokyo. I chose to visit Tokyo’s National Museum of Modern Art. The museum had a temporary exhibit detailing the life and work of the famous figure in Japanese animation, Takahata Isao. It was also within walking distance, albeit a long walk, from the hotel where I was staying at the time. The exhibit was very detailed. I was able to follow along with as much as the information as I wanted to due to the inexpensive English speaking audio guide that I rented. Without that guide I would of been lost and missed much of the meaning and purpose behind the exhibit. I imagine that exhibit wasn’t so much for tourists. I don’t remember seeing another tourist in the temporary exhibit. The museum itself was a great way to avoid the heat of the day while waiting for my hotel room to be ready. Aside from being an interesting place to learn about Japanese modern art and modern animation the museum had AC. On hot August days in Tokyo, air conditioning is a life saver. I don’t think you necessarily need to visit the same museum I did or a lot of them, but I do recommend working one or two stops at a museum into your Tokyo visit.
Please stay behind the yellow paint.
6. Subway and Taxis
There are so many ways to get around the city of Tokyo. Two ways that I think everyone should at least experience once are using the subway system and riding in a taxi. I can hear it now - thousands of budget travelers crying out in anger at the thought of paying for a taxi in Tokyo. Just wait, we’ll get to that.
First, I have to be honest and mention that I only used the subway system once. I preferred to walk most of the time I was in Tokyo. During my one time using the subway system it was a straight shot with no changes. I was also with a local tour guide that knew the area and route very well. That being said I did meet several people and meet some tours in and around the different subway stations since they are often the easiest places to meet up with people. I found the subway stations and the one car that I was in to be cleaner and quieter than any metro or subway that I had used in the United States and even frankly some European countries too. I heard from some of my counterparts that I met while in Tokyo that once you understand how to read the subway maps and the numbering system that using the subway there isn’t too difficult.
Second, I used a few taxis to get around in Tokyo. Mostly this was because the whole trip was a totally unplanned last minute affair. They’re as simple as asking your front desk at the hotel to call a taxi. Most of the time the driver came into the lobby to find me. More often than not the driver also spoke at least some English. When the driver didn’t, it was as simple as showing the driver the address on my phone. But that isn’t why I recommend trying a taxi in Tokyo at least once. If you’re thinking I’m going to recommend using a taxi to and from the airport you’ve clearly not seen the distance between the airports and most of the city. There’s much cheaper options like the subway, bus, and shared van transfers. No, the reason why I think you should give a taxi ride a shot for a short ride is to experience the white glove service, doors that the driver can open and close without leaving his or her seat, the ads running on TV's inside the vehicle, and the knowledge of the area. Every driver I met was incredibly helpful in every sense of the word. I do, however, think the average person traveling alone shouldn’t use this method more than once just to get the experience unless money is no object. I’d recommend one way to make this method more economical is to split the fare four ways. That being said, if you want to stay under budget avoid using this method of travel any more than when it is absolutely necessary.
7. Food and Drinks
Contrary to what most of my friends think, Japanese food is so much more than sushi. I am not a culinary expert, nor do I pretend to be; however, I hope this list of food to try will help get you started exploring Tokyo one meal at a time.
Be sure to push the chicken down to ensure it cooks.
Chanko Hot Pot
The Chanko hot pot that I tried was served like a stew over a fire. The biggest thing to remember is to make sure you push the meat down into the boiling broth to ensure it is cooked. I did this until the fire went out which didn’t take more than a few minutes. The dish came with tofu skin and some noodles that I added to the stew like concoction to absorb some of the taste of the delicious broth. Half the fun of this meal was trying to eat it with chopsticks and sharing the struggle with the other tourists at my table. The other half was seeing real sumo wrestlers nearby in the restaurant. Apparently the Chanko hot pot is a favorite dish of those practicing sumo.
Don’t be afraid to just point at the picture when you’re ordering.
Sushi
Most Americans that I know upon finding out that I didn’t eat the sushi in Tokyo every day acted as if I had committed a sin. The sushi was great and I absolutely enjoyed the experience. I highly recommend it. However, to eat only sushi is to lose out on so many other culinary experiences, especially if you are tight on time. Oh, and be aware of the sushi with wasabi already rolled inside it. That was a fun surprise the first time I took an unsuspecting bite.
This food was meant for sharing.
Food on a stick
I like the many options available with this type of dish and being able to easily share the food with others. I found it to be a great option when I wanted to share a meal and maybe a couple beers. Oh and definitely try these foods with soy sauce.
You have to try Ramen while you’re in Japan.
Ramen
The ramen in Japan is nothing like the cheap stuff you find in packages in America. I tried some ramen with beef and veggies in a little mom and pop place. There isn’t much to say other than please give it a try. I hope that you enjoy your ramen experience as much as I enjoyed mine!
Trying this food is an absolute must for any foodie.
Okonomiyaki
Half the fun of trying this savory pancake is watching it made on a hot plate right in front of you. That is unless you are daring enough to make your own. Personally, I have no idea what I’m doing when cooking at home and wouldn’t dare show off my lack of skills in public. However, if that’s something you’re into then this could make for a fun activity and meal. I was shown two different versions of the dish. The first and older version is more runny. The second and newer version is similar in shape to a pancake that I’m used to at home. However, it’s really like a pancake on steroids with all the ingredients and sauce that the chef adds. If there is one food that I miss from Tokyo, this is it. I’d eat it every day if I had the chance.
711 will save you a ton of money while still providing good food.
711 Food
Imagine a world where 711 has tasty food for on the go and so much more. That magical place is real and it is in Tokyo. 711 is a great option for budget travelers, families, or just about anyone looking for a good inexpensive lunch for their next adventure around town. There are so many 711’s that with a tiny amount of thinking beforehand you might not even need to pack a lunch. For my American readers think Starbucks in the 90’s and early 2000’s. The 711’s are everywhere in Tokyo.
One of the best named products that I’ve ever come across.
Vending Machine Drinks
The drink vending machines are plentiful around Tokyo. The selection will vary, but overall they’re super useful for those hot summer days when you need a drink. I personally stuck to water most of the time, but if you want to play the game of guessing what you are about to buy, then try your hand at the other selections to choose from. Be aware that some drinks can be served hot and others are cold. In a pinch you can even find vending machines with coffee or hot tea for those mornings you need a little help moving faster!
Have a Drink at Golden Gai
I won’t dare try to estimate the number of bars in this area. There are so many places to try out in this small area. Every single one that I saw or went into was small, so this isn’t a place for those that don’t enjoy small spaces or talking with others over a drink. Some places wanted a cover charge and others didn’t. Some were okay with anyone coming in and others were not. Some establishments had a bartender that spoke English while others did not. If you aren’t enjoying the first bar that you stop at, then just move on into another one. You won’t have a problem finding somewhere to share a drink with a travel partner or meet new friends.
Half the fun of the nightlife is just exploring.
However, I must warn you that this is not a place to let your guard down fully. I never felt unsafe, but I must tell everyone that reads this that there are some unsavory things going on behind the scenes in this area. I had a run in with one of the stereotypical tourist traps while exploring this area. A very friendly black man claiming to be from somewhere approached me in the dark near one of the entrances to Golden Gai telling me, in a noticeable accent, that he was a scout for a nearby bar. He pointed behind him away from Golden Gai and explained that there were many girls and good beer there. Once I understood what he was getting at I quickly said no, thank you. He politely, but firmly pressed me to follow him. He then relented when it was clear that I had no intention of going. In my mind this is a situation that could easily lead to being the subject of a 60 Minutes TV piece and a cautionary tale for others. Following someone in that kind of situation could easily turn into putting yourself into a dangerous and illegal situation. Thankfully, it happened in public, I was completely sober, had witnesses, and I’m at least a little smart when it comes to these situations. My motto has always been that if I wouldn’t do it in my hometown, then why on earth would I do it someone else’s town, especially when I can’t read or speak the language. Please do not let this experience keep you from exploring this area. Just be smart, be aware of your surroundings, travel in a group if you are with people, and make good decisions. Plus remember you didn’t travel all the way to Japan to get roaring drunk. You could have stayed at home and done that for a lot cheaper.
It may be difficult for a first time buyer to make a decision with all these options.
9. Chopstick Shopping
A local tour guide once told me that for the Japanese shopping for chopsticks is like shopping for the right pair of sneakers. Everyone in the household has at least a pair of their own and each of them must be tried on before purchasing. He then proceeded to demonstrate how locals will try out their chopsticks by holding them in his hand and manipulating the chopsticks and switching pairs until he found some that felt comfortable. He then said to me that many will go to the store or a few stores to find just the right pair of chopsticks for them. With so many options on just the wall behind him in this one small store on a side street in Tokyo, I had trouble fathoming the seemingly endless options that must be available in such a massive city.
Sleeping in a capsule hotel is a good way to save money while visiting Tokyo, but it isn’t for those who don’t like small places.
10. Stay in a Capsule Hotel or Business Hotel
I highly recommend trying at least one night in a capsule hotel while you are visiting Tokyo. If you are at all unsure how you will do in such a small place while you’re trying to sleep, but still want to give it a shot then I have a specific recommendation for you. Try Nine Hours if you are flying in or out of Narita airport (Tokyo’s main international arrival and departure airport) on a late or early flight. The capsule hotel is at the airport itself, but outside of the secure area. It was very clean with a helpful and friendly staff.
There is just enough room to move side to side and roll over.
Sleeping in capsule is a bit different than having your own place. I found it to be more like a mix between an upscale gym locker room and a hostel. In my experience at Nine Hours the sexes are split up at the moment they complete check in at the front desk by entering the hotel via two different doors on two different sides of the lobby. Obviously, I can’t speak for the ladies’ side, but I bet it is a similar experience. Once you go through the door to the males only area you enter into a dark room where you return items like your slippers and sleep shirt at the end of your stay. Once the door to the outside closes you open the door to the room with lockers. Further in the back is an area with trash cans and recycling bins with the toilets, sinks, and showers beyond that. You can miss the door to the capsules across from the trash cans and recycling bins if you aren’t paying attention. By the way, once you leave the locker area you should be wearing your slippers. No shoes please. It really helps the place stay cleaner.
Your capsule number is also your locker assignment.
You might be wondering how you know which locker and capsule are yours during your stay. They give you a key to open your locker with your number attached. Each capsule is clearly marked with a number. All you have to do is find your number and leave your slippers in front of your capsule. I’m not going to lie to you - a capsule is probably about the size of a twin sized bed. I’m not the tallest person in the world, but I had enough room to stretch out. The walls and ceiling around the bed were far enough apart that I could stretch my arms out above me and not touch the ceiling unless I was trying to do so. The walls also had cubby holes on either side of the bed, but they weren’t able to store much more than some glasses, a watch, a cell phone, and a charger. Yes, there was an outlet inside the capsule itself. There was even a speaker that played relaxing tones with a volume control. I found that it helped with the quiet noise of people moving around in their capsules or walking past. I could hear the other guests mostly because there was only a thin flap that covered the entry to my capsule. I think just about the only thing that flap really did was keep the AC from getting into my capsule in enough quality to feel comfortable.
Every business hotel that I stayed in came with disposable slippers and a robe to borrow.
Now, if you have a bit more money to spend on a place to sleep or the idea of sleeping in a midsize coffin isn’t for you, but you don’t want to spend your whole budget on a place to lay down at night then I have just the type of place for you. Try a business hotel. They’re everywhere in Japan and each chain is a little different, but every one of them that I tried were clean with helpful and friendly staff. One of them even had its own bathhouse for guests. The accommodations will be small, but you will typically have a bed, a tv, your own bathroom and shower, a desk or somewhere to sit, and somewhere to hang a couple articles or clothing. Most of the ones I stayed at required you deposit your hotel card in a specific slot to have the air conditioning and lights work. However, someone I don’t want to name any names haha, may or may not have figured out that any card will fit and work in the regular slots and in a pinch for the thin deep rectangular slots nail clippers will work. Tricks like this can save you if you want the room to be cool when you return or you’re like me and prone to walk out the self locking hotel room door only to realize that you left your key inside. The business hotels really are a great option. I highly recommend giving one a shot.
A little research before your trip could save you money and time later.
The following link is an Amazon affiliate link.
Lonely Planet’s Discover Tokyo: https://amzn.to/2W22DEy
Poor Weather Activities in the Outer Banks
It’s not often that a summer rain comes to the Outer Banks and stays for the whole day. However, it can happen and when it does, it is best to have some ideas of fun or interesting activities to enjoy then while at the Outer Banks. When it rains, the movie theaters on the Outer Banks (yes, there is more than just one movie theater on the Outer Banks) fill up quickly and many people choose to curl up at their place and stream some movies, shows, or music. Beyond that, though, there are some other fun and interesting things to explore during periods of wet weather. Check out my list of top ten rainy day Outer Banks activities.
Ten Top Outer Banks Rainy Day Activities
It’s not often that a summer rain comes to the Outer Banks and stays for the whole day. However, it can happen and when it does, it is best to have some ideas of fun or interesting activities to enjoy then while at the Outer Banks. When it rains, the movie theaters on the Outer Banks (yes, there is more than just one movie theater on the Outer Banks) fill up quickly and many people choose to curl up at their place and stream some movies, shows, or music. Beyond that, though, there are some other fun and interesting things to explore during periods of wet weather. Check out my list of top ten rainy day Outer Banks activities.
My Outer Banks Top Ten Rainy Day Activities
1. The North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island.
If it rains and you venture out to the Aquarium in Manteo on Roanoke Island, you won’t be alone. Likely it will be crowded with others who had the same thought, but even when crowded, the Aquarium is worth a visit. In addition to its indoor exhibits and critters, the Aquarium also offers a lovely outdoor area with a sound side pier if it stops raining long enough for you to spend some time outside during your visit.
The Aquarium has a wide variety of sea life from the waters of the Outer Banks and is well worth its entry fee to just wander around experiencing the exhibits. See sharks, an alligator, river otters, and more. Touch stingrays and learn more about the Aquarium’s STAR (Sea Turtle Assistance and Rehabilitation Center). The STAR Center functions like a medical rehab unit for sea turtles. It’s great to know what is being done to ensure sea turtles survive and thrive. The aquarium does have some special tours for which you may need to preregister. Often such tours have an additional cost, but you can enjoy the Aquarium without participating in one of those. Free program features include such activities as shark feedings, stingray feedings, and creature features talks. If you ever wanted to touch or pet a stingray, the aquarium offers you that opportunity. At the time of this writing, the price of admission is:
Adults (13-61)- $12.95
Seniors (Ages 62 and older)- $11.95
Military- $11.95
Children (Ages 3-12)- $10.95
Children (Ages 2 and under)- Free
NC Aquarium Society Members- Free
You can purchase advance tickets, but that can not always eliminate entry wait times. Be aware the last ticket of the day is sold at 4:30 PM with a 5:00 PM closing time.
The aquarium has wheelchairs at Visitor Services for guests with mobility impairments, but only on a first come, first serve basis. You are not able to reserve them in advance. Personal ECVs and wheelchairs can be used on site as well. Service animals are allowed on the grounds. They are allowed in all areas, but to go into behind the scenes areas with service animals requires advance notice. Note that emotional support animals are not allowed on aquarium grounds or within the aquarium itself.
The aquarium offers sensory backpacks for free checkout (with a valid driver’s license to ensure it is returned.) These sensory backpacks are designed for guests with developmental disabilities and Autism Spectrum Disorder or ASD. The sensory backpacks include: assorted animal artifacts and animal models with labels; laminated copies of the Zoo Social Story; feelings thermometer; noise canceling headphones; weighted balls; and fidget toys. There are also sensory backpacks available for guests who have low vision or are blind. Those sensory backpacks include: laminated copies of the Zoo Social Stories; a monocular; animal artifacts and animal models with labels printed in size 18 font; yellow glare reducing glasses; and a magnifying glass.
The North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island is located at 374 Airport Road, Manteo, North Carolina 27954. 252.475.2300. Open hours are: 9 AM-5 PM daily. For up to date information check their website at http://www.ncaquariums.com/roanoke-island
Rainbow over Duck, North Carolina.
2. Wright Brothers National Memorial.
In Kill Devil Hills, this is a National Park Service memorial to the two brothers and their first successful sustained and controlled by humans flight of 1903. The brothers Wilbur and Orville Wright went here to these dunes in the North Carolina Kitty Hawk area due to the amount of open space available and the constant winds. They thought the winds would help add lift to their airplane. This Memorial is where their first flight lasting 12 seconds and traveling a distance of 120 feet happened. The pilot on that successful first flight was Orville Wright. The brothers actually made four brief flights on that same day on December 17, 1903. By the fourth flight, with Wilbur at the controls, the airplane flew for 59 seconds over a distance of 852 feet. Although the actual plane they flew here is now located in the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum in Washington, D.C., there are plenty of artifacts and interesting exhibits in the visitor center which tell the story of man’s first successful flight. The center also contains a reproduction of the Wright 1902 glider and their 1903 airplane. There is an engine block from the 1903 airplane along with a wind tunnel used by the Wrights in their experiments. Take the time to explore the replicas of the Wright Brothers’ living quarters and hangar. These are furnished as if the Wright Brothers could walk in today to use them. Sometimes NASA has exhibits on loan, so check and see if there are any during your visit here. The actual 60 foot tall memorial to the Wright Brothers’ flight achievement is located outside on top of a 90 foot hill.
The Wright Brothers National Memorial is located at 1000 N. Croatan Highway, Kill Devil Hills, NC. Phone: 252. 473.2111. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily, except for Christmas Day. At this time the entry fee is $10.00 for adults ages 16 years and older. Children 15 years and younger enter for free. The entry fee includes the day you visit and seven days afterwards. That is a nice feature since if the rainy weather is so bad you cannot actually get out to go to the memorial hill or see any of the outside flight markers, you are able to return for another visit.
3. Roanoke Island Maritime Museum.
The Maritime Museum is on the waterfront in downtown Manteo on Roanoke Island. This museum’s focus is on local watercraft suitable for using in the rough waters of the sound. If you are interested in boats or think you could be, this museum introduces you to how boats are made and used. On display here are an 1883 shad boat and other types of boats such as a clipper yawl, and a 1960’s hydroplane. This is also a working boat shop. It is a place where you can see boat construction and boat restoration first hand. If you have visited the Elizabeth II, the replica of the 1500’s ship that came from England to Roanoke Island, then you have been on a boat built here. The museum is usually open Monday through Friday, 8:30 AM until 5:00 PM, Saturday, 10:00 AM until 4:30 PM, and is closed on Sundays. Location: 104 Fernando Street, Manteo, NC. Call 252.475.1750 to check for current hours the day you want to visit.
4. Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station.
This is a museum housed in the historic Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station building. It still has all its original buildings and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Station’s museum showcases their historic mission of saving the lives of those on board shipwrecked ships off shore or ships in distress due to storms that can be prevalent out to sea off the Outer Banks. The U.S. Life-Saving Service’s successor is the U.S. Coast Guard. The Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station is located on Hatteras Island and is on the most eastern point of the state of North Carolina.
The museum is open to visitors from April through November. The entry fee helps support its foundation which is dedicated to the upkeep of the Station. Adults $8, Seniors 65+ $7, and children ages 4 to 17 $6. The Station is located at 23645 NC Highway 12, Rodanthe, NC. Phone: 252.987.1552. Check current hours and entry fees before you visit at https://chicamacomico.org/
Beautiful spring flowers shine through even a rainy day.
5. The Whalehead.
The Whalehead in Corolla was renovated and opened up to the public to visit in 2002. It is located in the historic Corolla park, not that far away from the Corolla village itself and the Currituck Lighthouse. What used to be a waterfront retreat home built by the wealthy Knight family in the Art Nouveau style during the 1920’s is now a place that all can visit. If you want to feel like you just walked into The Great Gatsby novel, then you should take some time to visit here. Take one of the audio self guided tours through the 21,000 square foot main house and be sure to check out the beautiful grounds surrounding it, including the boat house. There are some tours led by docents so check for those if you visit Mondays through Fridays. Those tours are generally done between 11 AM and 3 PM. There is also a boat house tour including the generator room which provided electricity to the property years before it came to the rest of the Outer Banks. Other tours like a behind the stairs tour or a moonlight ghost tour are also offered from time to time. Check for the twilight tour of the house as it often includes a free wine tasting. During the summer season on Tuesday or Wednesday afternoons the Whalehead and Historic Corolla Park usually sponsors some fun afternoon or evening events. These can include live local musician performances or wine tastings or beer tastings. Try calling 252.453.9040, ext. 226, to reserve these tours in advance of your visit.
Admission costs $10 for adults, $5 for students, and children under 8 are free. The Whalehead is located at 1100 Club Road, Corolla, NC, 27927. Their website is http://whaleheadwedding.com/
A flower to brighten any day.
6. Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education.
Also located in Corolla is the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education in the Historic Corolla Park. This is a fairly new 22,000 square foot interpretive center for people to visit if they want to better understand North Carolina’s wildlife. There is quite a collection of fish native to the area in an 8000 gallon aquarium along with some other critters. The Center highlights the marine diversity of the region’s ocean, sound, and estuaries.
From April through November, open hours are Monday through Saturday, 9 AM through 5 PM and the rest of year it is open Monday through Friday, 9 AM through 5 PM. It is open on Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, and Veterans Day and is closed on state holidays. Admission is free, but donations are accepted. You may want to call ahead to check on registering for any programs offered. The Center is located at 1160 Village Lane, Corolla, NC. Phone: 252.453.0221. For more information check the website at: https://www.ncwildlife.org/Learning/Education-Centers/Outer-Banks
7. Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum.
The Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum is located off NC Route 12 S at the southern end of Hatteras Island. This is a new maritime museum building. Offshore from the Outer Banks are the rough and unpredictable Diamond Shoals. Over as many as 500 years ships have been wrecked out there with many of them still down on the bottom of the sea. This museum contains many artifacts from shipwrecks and tells stories of the wrecks. The museum is also the home of the original Cape Hatteras Lighthouse Fresnel lens and has exhibits on diving, pirates, the Civil War on the NC coast, and World War II in the waters off of the NC coastline. An interesting exhibit displays the bell and some other items from the Carol Deering. The Carol Deering was a ghost ship which was found ashore without any passengers or crew who were never found. The only living thing on board the ship when it was found was its six toed cat.
Admission is free, but donations are welcomed. Open hours are generally Monday through Saturday, 10 AM until 4 PM. The museum’s address is 59200 Museum Drive, Hatteras, NC. Phone: 252.986.0720. Check their website for up to date open hours and program information at https://graveyardoftheatlantic.com
8. Shopping - Outer Banks Outlet Mall, Nags Head.
Shopping can be fun when rain keeps you away from the beaches. Check out the stores at the Outlet Mall in Nags Head. A great thing about going shopping in Nags Head is that when you are shopped out or you’ve spent most of your money, there are lots of choices for somewhere to eat afterwards. The Outlet Mall is not a large one like those in Williamsburg or Northern Virginia, but it does have a nice variety of shops right on the Outer Banks and it has plenty of parking spaces. There are usually about 20 stores located in the Outlet Mall. The mall is located at Milepost 16; the address is 7100 S. Croatan Highway, Nags Head, NC. The mall’s office phone number is 252.441.5634. Check the website to see what stores are there and opening hours at: https://www.outletsnagshead.com/directory/
A stormy day at the beach is better than not being at the beach.
9. Shopping - Duck, NC.
Duck as a shopping area is listed separately from the Nags Head Outlet Mall since it is a very different kind of shopping experience. Duck is a small village on NC Route 12 N filled with restaurants, some bars, unique shops, and in summer packed with vacationers. There are not really any chain stores here, unless you want to count stores like Wings or Kitty Hawk Surf Company which do have stores spread up and down the beaches. Duck shopping is for those who like to browse individually owned specialty and artist’s stores. These are scattered throughout the various small shopping clusters in Duck. There is a long wooden boardwalk on the sound front in Duck which links together many of the shops and places to eat. Some of the boardwalk is covered and some is not, so be aware of that if it raining hard. On the waterfront there is a dog bakery that makes it own homemade doggy biscuits, an olive oil shop that offers great tasting opportunities along with many varieties of balsamic vinegar, and a coffee/bookstore made for browsing with a good cup of coffee and something tasty. Near the waterfront, but just on the other side of the road is the Scarborough Faire Shopping Center at 1177 Duck Road (that’s NC Route 12 N in Duck) and next to the Faire are the Scarborough Lane Shoppes. Both offer covered shopping areas which is great for both rainy days and sunny hot days. Both offer boutique type stores that sell things such as clothes for all ages, books and toys, original art, antiques, home goods, jewelry, along with some must have beach things like skimmers, water toys, and surfboards. If you are interested in shopping, this is probably one of the best places to spend time doing it on the Outer Banks. If driving to Duck to shop, look for a parking spot (try the Scarborough Lane Shoppes covered parking lot), park the car, and then walk everywhere from there. Most of the varied shopping areas in Duck are close enough to walk to by using the varied pathways, sidewalks, and the town’s boardwalk. However, keep in mind that Saturday traffic in Duck during the summer season is something to avoid. That is when Duck Road turns essentially into a 2 lane parking lot because of everyone trying to leave or get to their week’s rental place. https://www.scarboroughfaireinducknc.com/
http://www.scarboroughlaneshoppesducknc.com/
10. Winery/Brewery Trip.
The Outer Banks is home to several individual breweries and there are some wineries nearby that offer tastings. Compile your own list of where you want to sample your brew or wine, make sure you have a designated non-drinking driver, and start your own pub/tasting crawl. This activity also offers you the benefit of seeing some of the Outer Banks as you travel about looking for your next place to stop. Aim for between three to four places for your crawl. With travel time up and down the Outer Banks, you should allow most of an afternoon or evening for this activity. Some suggested places are listed below, but this list is not comprehensive so be sure to do some more research online or ask friends to recommend additional places.
Stores: These are some stores on the Outer Banks that offer wine tastings and sometimes beer tastings:
Chips Wine and Beer Market, 2200 N Croatan Highway, Kill Devil Hills, NC. Phone: 252.449.8229, http://www.chipswinemarket.com
Tiro Restaurant and Market, 3708 N Croatan Highway, Kitty Hawk, NC. Phone: 252.261.0277, https://obxtrio.com
Tommy’s Natural Foods Market and Wine Shop, 1242 Duck Road, Duck, NC. Phone: 252.261.8990. https://tommysmarketobx.com
Bacchus Wine and Beer Bistro, 891 Albacore Street, Corolla, NC. Phone: 252.453.4333. https://bacchuswineandbeer.com
Howard’s Pub and Raw Bar, 1175 Irvin Garrish Highway (NC Route 12 S on Ocracoke Island), Ocracoke, NC. Phone: 252.928.4441. https://www.howardspub.com/Home .
Beer:
Outer Banks Brewing Station, 600 S Croatan Highway, Kill Devil Hills, NC. Phone: 252.449.2739. Try the Lemongrass Wheat Ale or the Closeout Nitro Stout or the hard cider made from North Carolina apples. https://www.obbrewing.com/
Growlers To Go, 1187 Duck Road, Duck, NC. Phone: 252.715.1946. This is not a brewery, but they do have 27 craft beers on tap. www.beerforthebeach.com
Weeping Radish Brewery, Butchery, & Pub, 6810 Caratoke Highway, Grandy, NC. Phone: 252.491.5205. This is on the mainland on US Highway 158, the Caratoke Highway (the road that travels south from Virginia to the Outer Banks), not too far from the sound in Currituck County. Buy a can of their Corolla Gold and part of the purchase price goes to the Corolla Wild Horse Fund. https://www.weepingradish.com
Lost Colony Brewery & Cafe, 208 Queen Elizabeth Street, Manteo, NC. Phone: 252.473.6666. Try their Raleigh Buxton Brew or for something lighter, try the Kitty Hawk Blonde. http://lostcolonybrewery.com
Wine:
Sanctuary Vineyards, 7005 Caratoke Highway (US Highway 158), Jarvisburg, NC. The tasting room is located in The Cotton Gin next door at 6957 Caratoke Highway, Phone: 252.491.2387. This location is on the mainland about three miles inland from the sound. Tastings are also available varied times at the three other Cotton Gin locations on the Outer Banks: Cotton Gin in TimBuck II, Corolla (US Route 12 N), 789 Sunset Blvd, Corolla, Phone: 252.453.4456; Cotton Gin in Duck, 1185 Duck Road, Phone: 252.261.2387; and the Cotton Gin at Milepost 14.5 in Nags Head, 5151 S Croatan Highway, Phone: 252.449.2387. http://sanctuaryvineyards.com
Vineyards on the Scuppernong, 117 S. Elm Street, Columbia, NC. 252.796.4727. This winery is located on the mainland off of US 64 about 50 minutes going west from Nags Head. You can’t miss the winery tasting room due to the large red letter sign that says Winery up on the roof. They also have recently added what they call their “pop-up” locations at two places on the Outer Banks. Both of these offer tastings of the Vineyards wines and sell their wines. In Manteo: inside Island Perk at 101 Budleigh Street (corner of Budleigh and Queen Elizabeth). In Duck: inside Donutz on a Stick at 1216 Duck Road which is also on the Duck sound front boardwalk. Check their website for more information at http://www.vineyardsonthescuppernong.com
Nice Weather Activities in the Outer Banks
When you go to the Outer Banks of North Carolina you expect sunny days and beautiful beaches. And that is usually what you get. If not, then that not so wonderful weather usually passes through quickly. In another post I’ll suggest some rainy day activities, but this is about Outer Beach activities besides enjoying the beach or pool.
Ten Top Outer Banks Sunny Day Activities
When you go to the Outer Banks of North Carolina you expect sunny days and beautiful beaches. And that is usually what you get. If not, then that not so wonderful weather usually passes through quickly. In another post I’ll suggest some rainy day activities, but this is about Outer Beach activities besides enjoying the beach or pool.
My Outer Banks Top Ten Sunny Day Activities
1. Jockey Ridge State Park, Nags Head, NC.
Jockey Ridge State Park is the place to be for many different activities.
Sunset: the park offers a top of the dunes view for those who want to experience a glorious sunset over the sound. Every evening many people head into the park and trek up to the top of the dunes to gather in groups, picnic, and enjoy watching the sun setting in the west. The park contains the tallest living sand dunes on the Atlantic which means the view from the top is pretty spectacular. Climbing your way up to the top of the dunes means you can see a long way up and down the Atlantic coastline and out over the Roanoke Sound to the mainland. Take your camera, something to snack on, a blanket or chairs, or be prepared to stand for awhile, and find your spot for the view. There really is not a bad viewing spot anywhere on the dune’s top so experiment around before you settle to watch. For safety and to offer help as needed, a park ranger joins the crowd each evening.
Hang gliding: the park is probably the best place to hang glide on the Outer Banks. It offers clear sightlines and lots of wind for those willing to hang glide. Be aware the winds up on top of the dunes can blow as much as 10 to 15 miles per hour. To hang glide here you must first get a permit at the park’s visitor center and have a current USHPA membership or other agency approved rating card. For those without such a rating, but still wanting to try it out you can take hang gliding lessons from the company with the concession located near to the park’s visitor center. Also, note that hang gliding stops one hour before the park closes.
Kite flying: while you can fly a kite pretty much anywhere along any Outer Banks beach, flying one from the dunes is rather special. As mentioned, there is plenty of wind and not much in the way of obstruction up at the top of the dunes. On any sunny day, you see kites flying from the top of the dunes, but the dunes are so big there is plenty of room for all to fly a kite.
Sandboarding: if you like snowboarding, then you might want to try to sandboard on the dunes if you have your own board. Check with the visitor’s center for the areas you can use and when you can do it.
Nature Views and Trails: there are three short hikes available. None of them will take long, but they do offer a glimpse into the maritime plant and animal life of the dunes. The boardwalk is 360 feet long and offers a viewing deck with benches at its end. From there you can continue onward to climb up the dunes. The Soundside Nature Trail is located off West Soundside Road and offers a short half mile round trip loop through maritime shrubs. Since the dunes’ height protects the thicket from the strong northeast winds, there are many varieties of plants here. The Tracks in the Sand Trail offers a slightly longer route of just over a mile round trip that leads to the Roanoke Sound. You can access this trail from the southwest corner of the main parking lot.
Other Park Activities: check the park’s website for ranger led programs and hikes. They often offer ranger led nature hikes through the park and kayaking tours along the sound. These are usually free, but some require pre-registration.
One other important thing to know about Jockey Ridge State Park is you must have shoes to help protect your feet from the hot sand and sandspurs. The sand bakes in the sun all day which means the sand gets really hot so beware of burning the soles of your feet. Also, as anyone who has spent time in warm sandy areas knows, sandspur plants are everywhere and it’s painful to have the burs harpoon like stick into your feet. For more information about Jockey’s Ridge State Park and current hours check it out at https://www.ncparks.gov/jockeys-ridge-state-park The park address is 300 W. Carolista Drive, Nags Head, NC 27959. 252.441.7132.
2. Outer Banks Lighthouses.
For those who like to look at or climb up inside lighthouses a visit to the Outer Banks means you’ve got five lighthouses to explore and experience. These lighthouses are listed below in order starting in the north and then going south. Not all offer a climbing experience, but all are historic North Carolina coastline lighthouses. For each one, I’ve listed both the lighthouse address and its website. Use the website to get further and up-to-date information.
Currituck Beach Lighthouse is in the northern beach village of Corolla. This lighthouse does not get any government funding and is funded and maintained through its nonprofit organization. Climbing up the 220 steps to the top costs $10.00 and tickets are sold on a timed entry basis. The view from the top lets the climber see a large part of the Currituck Sound, the Atlantic Ocean, the Currituck Outer Banks, and the village of Corolla. This is still an active lighthouse with a light that can be seen for 18 nautical miles after dark. It’s exterior has been left unpainted in its natural red brick color. During the summer the lighthouse is open most days from 9 AM until 5 PM, but stays open until 8 PM on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Currituck Lighthouse website: http://www.currituckbeachlight.com/ Address: Currituck Beach Lighthouse, 1101 Corolla Village Road, Corolla, NC 27927. 252.453.4939
Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse. This lighthouse is on the waterfront in Manteo on Roanoke Island. Roanoke Island is located between the Outer Banks town of Nags Head and the North Carolina mainland. The Lighthouse is a reconstruction of a 1877 square cottage style screw-pile lighthouse. That original lighthouse was located at the southern entrance to the Croatan Sound. This is not a climb to the top kind of lighthouse since it is a low one story square building that is only 37’ tall. This is an example of a river type lighthouse of the sort which were used to guard entrances to rivers and harbors. The lighthouse sits out about 40 feet into the Roanoke Sound with seating on its surrounding decking and offers a view of the sound and downtown Manteo. The lighthouse is managed by the Roanoke Island Maritime Museum that is located next to the lighthouse. Check out the museum for exhibits on local coastal history. For the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, check the attractions link at the Manteo town website for more information at: https://www.townofmanteo.com Address: Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, 300 Queen Elizabeth Ave, Manteo, NC 27954.
Bodie Island Light Station. This lighthouse is off of NC Route 12S not too far from where you turn south on 12 out of Nags Head. This is a working lighthouse where you can climb to the top several months out of the year. It has over 200 steps and climbing up it is the equivalent of climbing up a ten story building. The lighthouse is painted in a distinctive pattern of alternating horizontal white and black stripes. It is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and run by the National Park Service. The view from the top offers a view of the Outer Banks barrier islands stretching north and south. While you are visiting, take the time to walk the boardwalk into the marsh. The boardwalk gives you a chance to see the marsh thicket up close along with some local wildlife and birds. I found it offered some great photo opportunities in several places. Tickets to climb this lighthouse are sold on a timed basis, so visit early to get your climb in before it gets really hot out. Bodie Island Light Station website: https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/bils.htm or www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm Bodie Island Lighthouse, 8210 Bodie Island Lighthouse, Nags Head, NC 27959 Phone number is for the Cape Hatteras National Seashore Visitor Center 252.473.2111.
Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is located off NC Route 12S in Buxton. To get to the top means climbing 257 steps, the equivalent of climbing up a 12 story building. It is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and is run by the National Park Service. This lighthouse is an extremely popular visitor attraction so get there early to buy your timed entry ticket. Ticket sales begin at 9 AM and they go fast. Climbs run every 10 minutes and are limited to 30 visitors per climbing time. Ever wanted to climb a lighthouse after dark? You can do it this year on the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse Full Moon Tours offered on June 17th, July 16th, August 15th, and September 14th. Each of those evenings have two climb times, but you must reserve your ticket ahead of time. More information on these moonlight climbs can be found at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm You can see the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse from far away pretty easily as it is painted black and white in spiral stripes. That and its height makes it easily catch the eye. At the base of the lighthouse is a visitor center and small gift shop. Check out the Cape Hatteras Light Station website at: https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/chls.htm or www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, 46368 Lighthouse Road, Buxton, NC 27920
Ocracoke Light Station. To get to this lighthouse you need to find your way all the way south down the Outer Banks to the small island and village of Ocracoke. There are three different routes to get to Ocracoke, but all involve taking a ferry. The ferry from 12S to Ocracoke is the only ferry that is free, but be aware it is a long drive down the southern Outer Banks from Nags Head on 12S to get to the ferry stop to take you to Ocracoke. This is the smallest lighthouse on the Outer Banks at 75 feet tall. Its exterior color is solid white. It is also North Carolina’s oldest lighthouse in operation, but it is not open for climbing. Visitors are welcome to the site of the lighthouse and the village of Ocracoke is always fun place to wander around in.. The lighthouse is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and is operated by the National Park Service. Ocracoke Light Station website: https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/ols.htm Ocracoke Island Lighthouse, Lighthouse Road, Ocracoke, NC 27960.
3. Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve.
For those who want to experience what the Outer Banks must have been like before it was developed, this is the place to go. The preserve contains over 1000 acres and is free to visit. It is owned and operated by The Nature Conservancy. Hiking trails are open every day from dawn to to dusk (foot only, not for bikes or other vehicle use). The preserve contains sand dunes, freshwater ponds, marshes, and wetlands. Try the Blueberry Ridge Boardwalk and trail of 3.5 miles or the Sweetgum Swamp Trail, 2.25 miles, or the 1.5 round trip Roanoke Trail on the western edge of the preserve. There is also a half mile ADA accessible trail that combines a wooden boardwalk and concrete pathway. Address: 701 West Ocean Acres Drive, Kill Devil Hills, NC 27948. 252.441.2525. Website: https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/nags-head-woods-ecological-preserve/
4. Airplane Ride. Who has not wanted to someday take a flight in a small plane? Visiting the Outer Banks gives you your chance to do it. While it can be an expensive outing, an airplane ride offers the opportunity to see the Outer Banks and its coastline from a distinctly different vantage point - way up high. Go up in a plane or helicopter and imagine yourself as a heir to the Wright Brothers in the place man first made a successful motorized flight. There are at least three companies that offer a flight experience out of Manteo, NC. Check out these companies (I don’t recommend any particular company, but do recommend you do some research to see what you feel is safe and comfortable for you and your family.) Check at the Dare County Regional Airport, 410 Airport Road, Manteo, NC 27954, 252.475.5570, for companies and types of flights available; website https://www.darenc.com/departments/airport/airport-business-director Short flights can cost as little as $15.00 per person each for a three person ride. Costs go up from there for rides depending on the type of aircraft, number of passengers on a flight, and the length of the flight.
5. Manteo, NC. Manteo is located on Roanoke Island which lies between Nags Head on the Outer Banks and the North Carolina mainland. You can get there off of US Highway 64 going west from Nags Head or east from the mainland. The downtown of Manteo is a great place to wander around with many short crooked streets, small shops, a brewpub, interesting restaurants, a attractive waterfront for strolling around and looking at the many boats in the harbor, and some nearby historic sights. There is also a Saturday Farmers Market loaded with fresh produce for those willing to venture out into the Saturday summer season traffic of the Outer Banks. Roanoke Island was the site of the 1587 English ‘Lost Colony’ which had disappeared by 1590. That event and further settlement of the area provides a context for the many historical attractions around Manteo. Roanoke Island Festival Park located at 1 Festival Park, Manteo, NC contains or is nearby to several things worth seeing including: Settler’s Village and Native American Camp; the Elizabeth II, a 16th century sailing ship replica, check it out at https://www.outerbanks.com/elizabeth-ii.html ; the Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. 1401 National Park Drive, Manteo, which explores the fort built there in the 1580s, https://www.outerbanks.com/fort-raleigh.html ; and for those who enjoy gardens explore the 10 acre Elizabethan Gardens.1411 National Park Drive, Manteo, https://www.outerbanks.com/elizabethan-gardens.html. Also in Manteo is the Pavilion Outdoor Theatre which features outdoor concerts and live entertainment. In addition, the Roanoke Adventure Museum offers visitors 400 years of Roanoke Island history all in one spot.
6. Wild Horse Tours.
Corolla/Carova Wild Horses. The wild horses of the Outer Banks are descended from the Spanish mustangs. They roam wild in two main places, north of Corolla in the northern outer banks, especially in Carova and on Ocracoke Island at the southern end of the Outer Banks. In Corolla there are several companies that offer wild horse tours which is probably the best way to see them and take some photos. Different companies use different vehicles from open air safari style type big jeeps, to SUVs, to jeeps. They take you out off the road over the beach and up into the areas where the wild horses roam. Most of the guides I’ve ridden with are quite knowledgeable about the herd and are even familiar with individual horses. They will inform you of their history, including how the horses got there and how they survive. You should know that you are not allowed to get real close to the horses, but you can still get close enough so that even a point and shoot camera or cell phone can get a nice picture.
Ocracoke Wild Horses. The wild horses on Ocracoke Island live protected within a secluded 180 acre area on the soundside of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. The Ocracoke band is a small one and they are referred to as Ocracoke’s Banker ponies or wild mustangs. There is a wooden fence to keep them away from direct public contact, but you can often see them roaming through their area. It is believed that these wild horses are descendants of horses from Spanish shipwrecks from long ago around the mid 1500s. The herd today is very small, around 15 to 17 horses, but there are local efforts working with the National Park Service to maintain the health of the herd and increase its numbers. The Ocracoke Pony Pen has feeding stations. If you drive along 12S on Ocracoke, you will see the National Park Service sign for the Pony Pen. There is a soundside parking area close to the wooden fence borders. Stop there and take a look for the horses. The soundside parking area is across the street from a beach access so if you get hot while waiting to spot a pony, head on over to the beach for a refreshing cool off. In addition, there is a lifeguarded beach along with a soundside nature trail located about three miles south of the Pony Pen.
7. Crabbing. Crabbing can be a fun activity on the Outer Banks. To go crabbing for many crabs, you need to check about having a North Carolina fishing license. However, to do a little spot crabbing using chicken necks or other bait with a fishing line, you don’t need a license. Recreational harvest limits apply and you cannot sell what you catch. But that is ok, as in my experience it is more the fun of trying to catch the critters and then eat the few that are large enough to bother with that makes crabbing something to try at least once. So I am not talking about using collapsible crab traps, but instead of catching individual crabs using a line and some bait. Tie your bait to one end of a fishing line and toss it into the water. Hold on to the other end or tie it to a dock post or fishing pole holder. Wait and when the line seems to tighten, then a crab is after your bait. Be patient and slowly pull in the line without disturbing the crab who is munching on your bait. A slow and gentle pull allows the crab to hang on until you get it close to the surface. Then put a small fishing net into the water underneath the crab and scoop it out of the water. Be sure you have a cooler to put your caught crabs in if you intend to keep the crabs to cook and eat later. Note: you can’t catch more than 50 crabs in one day and the ones you keep must be between 5” to 6.75”. Otherwise you can’t keep them and need to put them back into the water. Oh, and be sure to watch out for the claws!
8. Golfing. Golfing can be relaxing, fun, and a good way to get outside. I recommend you try for early morning tee times due to the summer heat of the Outer Banks, but those times will be the most expensive. If you can tolerate the heat and don’t mind starting until the afternoon hours, then the price will drop. You can rent clubs, shoes, whatever you need or you can bring your own equipment. There are at least four golf courses on the mainland on US 158 East before you get to the bridge over to the Outer Banks. There are several public golf courses on the Outer Banks themselves, but be aware that these courses can be expensive. Try https://www.golfnow.com/ to see what kind of pricing you can find to make it less expensive, but if you like to golf then it is really fun to go golfing on the Outer Banks. One course in Nags Head is the Nags Head Golf Links, a links-style course located on the sound front. It is at: 5615 S. Seachase Drive, Nags Head, NC 27959, 252.441.8073. The views out over the Roanoke Sound from many spots on the course are a plus here. Check out their prices (which vary seasonally and weekday) at http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Nags-Head-Golf-Links/Golf/Rates Remember, although it is hot and humid in the summer months on the Outer Banks, the wind there can help to cool you off. Just remember to bring plenty of water or something refreshing to keep you hydrated and wear suntan lotion to prevent sunburn.
Miniature golfing. For those who don’t want to take vacation time for a full golf course experience or those who don’t golf, there is miniature golf. There are many miniature golf courses on most of the Outer Banks islands so there are lots of places to choose from. Miniature golf can be really fun in the evening when it is cooler and a good way to socialize with your families and friends. There is a real grass miniature golf course in Corolla which does not have all the tricks, turns, or tunnels of most miniature golf courses, but is surprisingly fun to play as it somewhat reminiscent of the real thing.
9. Fishing boat or Dolphin Sightseeing Boat Tours. Going out on the ocean further from the coastline on a fishing boat excursion or a dolphin sightseeing boat tour is a great daytime activity. If you like to fish or think you want to try it, then sign up for an excursion ahead of time with one of the many companies that offer them. You can check around for a company in your chosen Outer Banks location, find a listing in one of the many Outer Banks brochures, or stop at the visitor center when you arrive on the Outer Banks just after crossing over the bridge from the mainland. There also many boat tours that take people out out to see dolphins off shore. Both fishing boat and dolphin boat tours can be half day or whole day excursions. Prices for these vary by company, your location, season and/or weekday, and length of the tour. Being out on a boat seeing the coastline from the water gives you a different perspective of the Outer Banks. And being able to catch some photos of dolphins playing in the water is always something I enjoy.
10. Water Sports. The opportunities are almost everywhere for experiencing different kinds of water sports. Tear yourself away from walking the beach and swimming to give one of these sports a try. There are multiple rental sports equipment companies up and down the northern and southern Outer Banks. Kitty Hawk Kites is one of the larger companies offering both equipment and lessons. If you are hesitant to try a sport, then arrange for a beginner’s lesson so you will feel more comfortable giving your chosen activity a try. Remember that the sound, in addition to the ocean, can be a good playground. Try a jet ski for an adrenaline rush as you move fast through the sound. Remember that rental fees will vary by company and your location, but most generally run about $70 for 30 minutes or $100 for a whole hour of jet skiing. For those adventurers out there, another sport to try which gives you great views of the Outer Banks is parasailing. Somewhat less thrilling, but still a great way to see the waters of the Outer Banks is kayaking. There are so many location options for kayaking that it can be hard to pick just one. Bring your own kayak or rent one or try a locally guided kayak tour. The Cape Hatteras National Seashore offers multiple spots for kayaking. The Pea Island Launch is located at the New Inlet parking area just south of the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center. There is a place to launch at the Salvo Day use area just south of the village of Salvo, and in Ocracoke village there is parking lot launch across the street from the National Park Visitor Center. Paddleboarding has soared in popularity in recent years so paddle boards are for rent in many Outer Banks locations by either the hour or at a day rate. One company with multiple locations throughout the Outer Banks is Kitty Hawk Kites which offers paddle boards and other kinds of sports equipment. They also have a stand alone kiosk right on the Duck waterfront boardwalk. Check out their website at: https://www.kittyhawk.com/adventures/stand-up-paddleboarding/
North Carolina's Outer Banks Part 2
To reach the southern Outer Banks beaches from the northern beaches, head south from Nags Head on NC Route 12S and stay on it for awhile. You are now going to the southern islands of the Outer Banks. To reach the southern Outer Banks from the west (the mainland), head east on US 64 over the bridges until you reach Nags Head, then turn south onto 12S. A difference you’ll immediately notice from the northern Outer Banks is how many fewer people are going south with you.
The Southern Outer Banks Beaches
On a lazy summer afternoon clouds roll in over the Outer Banks.
Try the Southern Outer Banks Beaches for Serenity and Beautiful Scenery
To reach the southern Outer Banks beaches from the northern beaches, head south from Nags Head on NC Route 12S and stay on it for awhile. You are now going to the southern islands of the Outer Banks. To reach the southern Outer Banks from the west (the mainland), head east on US 64 over the bridges until you reach Nags Head, then turn south onto 12S. A difference you’ll immediately notice from the northern Outer Banks is how many fewer people are going south with you. So go south on 12S if what you really want to find in the Outer Banks is a sense of peacefulness, being close to nature, and fewer crowds. Go south if you put a high priority on just enjoying the beach the outdoors during your time in the Outer Banks. Go south all the way to Ocracoke Island if you have the time and want to experience the best, in my opinion, of the southern Outer Banks.
Spotted one morning soaring over the Outer Banks.
Bodie Island
After leaving Nags Head, one of the first places you’ll see on 12S is the Bodie Island Lighthouse where you can stop and climb up to the top. In 2019 the lighthouse opens for climbing on April 19th and it stays open through the spring, summer, and fall seasons until October 14th. There are over 200 steps which is supposed to be the equivalent of climbing up a ten story building. Tickets are sold (free tickets on April 19th) for those interested in climbing to the top starting at 9 AM through 4:30 PM. Check out www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm for up to date information. On a clear day, the view from the Bodie Island Lighthouse gives a climber an extensive view of the Outer Banks islands stretching way to the north and to the south. On the lighthouse grounds there is also a marsh boardwalk ending in an elevated covered look-out over the freshwater marsh. Take the boardwalk for the good opportunities it offers for wildlife photos. Bird watchers are known to set up their spotting scopes there for viewing the many birds visiting here or calling the lighthouse area home. The Bodie (pronounced body) Island Lighthouse is a still functioning lighthouse with its light beams switching on when it gets dark. This lighthouse is painted in a distinctive pattern of alternating horizontal white and black stripes.
Hatteras National Seashore
As you continue south after the Bodie Island Lighthouse, you are in the Hatteras National Seashore. In the ‘Shore there are miles of wide beaches with relativity few visitors compared to the northern Outer Bank beaches. As you drive on 12S every so often you will see public parking lots with some that offer facilities. The Hatteras National Seashore is part of the U.S. National Park Service as are the Bodie Island Lighthouse, the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, and the Ocracoke Island Lighthouse. The ‘Shore offers those who come to the park three different visitor centers with each one located on a different island, RV and tent camping sites, and many ranger led programs, all in addition to the miles of beautiful unspoiled public use beaches. There are three short hiking trails located inside the National Seashore: the Buxton Woods Trail, a ¾ mile loop which takes you to some high areas of Hatteras Island; the Open Ponds Trail, a nine mile round trip look at the variety of habitats on Hatteras Island; and the Hammock Hills Trail on Ocracoke Island, a ¾ mile loop through scrub, maritime forest, and salt marsh with a view of the Pamlico Sound. There are four National Park camping sites: Oregon Inlet Campground on Bodie Island; Cape Point Campground and Frisco Campground on Hatteras Island; and Ocracoke Campground on Ocracoke Island. If at all possible, I recommend that you reserve ahead to pick your spot at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm Due to its popularity and the overall limited camping spaces on Ocracoke Island, if you want to stay at the Ocracoke Campground you really should reserve ahead to be sure you get a campsite.
Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, and Avon
Traveling south on 12S you pass through these several small villages - Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, and Avon until you reach Buxton. Each of these smaller villages offer a variety of rental accommodations for folks. While these villages are located on the narrow parts of Hatteras Island, their beaches are still wide enough to allow you to spread out, walk a fair distance, and get away from any crowds. These are towns which offer lots of space between you and others. Rodanthe is home to the Chicamacomicao Life-Saving Station, one of the original 16 life-saving stations that used to exist on the Outer Banks for the purpose of saving sailors and their shipwrecks. The Life-Saving Station is now a museum worth a stop for an hour or two. Rodanthe is also well known for its surfing location at the S-Curves. The S-Curves are located just north of the village where 12S used to twist and turn. You’ll know if the surfs up when you drive by on 12S and the road is packed with cars alongside it. You’ll also see at that time, some folks with their cameras up on the dunes trying to get good shots of the surfers and waves.
The village of Avon is known for its fishing and the Avon Fishing Pier is known as a place to catch a giant red drum right off the pier.
A view out over the sound.
Buxton
Buxton is a quiet small town on the the widest part of Hatteras Island. It offers a very popular fishing spot off Cape Point and is known for offering great opportunities for surfing, kiteboarding and windsurfing. Buxton has a public beach at the Hatteras Lighthouse that has life guards during summer days. Be aware that the ocean here can be rough so having a lifeguard around can give people some peace of mind. Buxton is a small place, but offers a good variety of places to stay. It has both oceanfront and inland motels, campgrounds (bring bug spray), two bed and breakfasts, and homes or condo to rent. Buxton also offers some good hiking through the 1,007 acre Buxton Woods Reserve that borders the Hatteras National Seashore. Before you hike, use your bug spray. Buxton Woods offers hikes through shrub thickets containing live oak and red cedar, ridges with beautiful views, and the opportunity to see freshwater marshes up close. Buxton Woods Reserve is a resting place for migrating birds with more than 350 species of birds sighted, including both bald eagles and peregrine falcons. Access the Reserve’s hiking trails and parking lots by taking Water Association Road off of 12S. Don’t use the Old Doctor’s Road which is unpaved and rough unless you have a 4x4 vehicle.
The National Park Service’s Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is located in Buxton and offers a workout with an incredible view for those willing to climb the 257 steps. Going up those 257 steps is the equivalent of climbing up a 12 story building. Ticket sales to climb the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse begin at 9 AM with the last ticket sales at 4:25 PM. Go early to get your ticket as this lighthouse is a popular stop. Climbs run about every 10 minutes and are limited to 30 visitors per climb time. Ever wanted to climb a lighthouse after dark? You can do it this year on the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse Full Moon Tours on June 17th, July 16th, August 15th, and September 14th. Each of those evenings offer two climb times, but you must reserve your ticket ahead of time. More information on these moonlight climbs can be found at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm You can see the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse from far away as it is painted black and white in spiral stripes. That and its height makes it easily catch the eye. At the base of the lighthouse is a visitor center for the National Seashore, Museum of the Sea, and small gift shop.
The old stone jetties where the Hatteras Lighthouse was originally located before it was moved further inland in 1999, just north of Cape Point, is a surfing hot spot of the southern Outer Banks. I’m told that its popularity with surfers is due to the combination of good waves and consistent conditions. Go early and check this spot out if you are interested in taking shots of surfers working their skills against the waves.
South of Buxton there is the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum at 59200 Museum Drive, Hatteras. It is one of the North Carolina Maritime Museums and offers exhibits about the Carolina coast, shipwrecks, and some interesting programs. Check it out- https://graveyardoftheatlantic.com/about/
Frisco
Next up on 12S is the small village of Frisco. Frisco is relatively isolated and the beach can be narrow, but it a good spot for those who want to really get away from it all.
Some days it’s just rough out there.
Hatteras Village
Hatteras Village is another small town on 12S located on the southern tip of Hatteras Island. Hatteras Village is really all about fishing. It proudly says it is the “blue marlin capital of the world.” Charter fishing is big here as the village is located just 15 miles off the Gulf Stream. Many people enjoy surf fishing on the shore here, but there is actually more than fishing to do around here. The beach is known for its large waves courtesy of the Gulf Stream meeting the cold water Labrador Current. The Pamlico Sound opposite the beach side offers visitors activities such as swimming, canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfing. Hatteras is a small village, but does offer many rental homes.
Wild ponies having a munch during a sunny afternoon.
Ocracoke Island
If you have never been to Ocracoke Island at the far southern tip of the Outer Banks, I recommend you try to go there. This is definitely a place to get away from it all. Ocracoke Island is located about 18 miles off the North Carolina mainland and towards the end of NC’s Route 12. To get to the island, drive south on 12 until you get to the ferry landing. You then take the free North Carolina state operated ferry with your car over to Ocracoke Island from the southern end of Hatteras Island. It takes about an hour on the ferry to get there. Of course, in the summer expect to wait some time to get your turn on the ferry. Just pull up in line and settle in to wait your turn. Remember it is ok to wait your turn as doing so will make you slow down and get into an island frame of mind. If you are going to Ocracoke Island from points west on the mainland, there are two other ferries to bring you over, but these take longer, usually require reservations, and have a fee to use them. However, that can be the way to go if you want to avoid the long drive south down Hatteras Island.
Once you reach Ocracoke Island, you drive further south until you reach where you want to stay on the island, either in Ocracoke Village or somewhere else. See the Hatteras National Seashore https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm for information about the NPS run campground. Many who come for a day visit or to stay longer, rent a golf cart to get around the island or use a bike to get everywhere. Ocracoke Island is a great place to park your car somewhere, slow down, relax, and enjoy the ocean breeze. The small village of Ocracoke is a quaint old fishing village with small streets to explore and enjoy. There are some good restaurants and unique shops in the village. Ocracoke, like Corolla much further north on the Outer Banks, has a small herd of wild ponies roaming the island. It also has the smallest lighthouse in the Outer Banks. The lighthouse is 65 feet tall and is North Carolina’s oldest lighthouse in operation, but it is not open for climbing. For those who like a refreshing adult cold beverage, be aware that beer is allowed on the beach, however, wine and liquor are not. Also, not allowed on the beaches is any form of glass. Ocracoke Island has about 14 miles of beaches, most of which offer lots of room to enjoy without being crowded. Unlike the northern Outer Bank beaches, Ocracoke Island is famous for shelling - walking the beach to find shells such as whelks, olive and moon shells. Best of all, the island offers many different types of places to stay at different price points including homes, cottages, hotels, campgrounds, and B & Bs. However, remember Ocracoke is remote and small so it is best to book your place to stay well ahead of your visit.
North Carolina's Outer Banks Part 1
Most people go to the Outer Banks off the coast of North Carolina during the summer months. That is when the weather is hot, lifeguards guard the beaches, all the restaurants and bars are open, stores are fully stocked, and there are lots of people enjoying themselves everywhere. However, if you can visit the Outer Banks during spring, April or May, or in the early fall months of September or October, you will experience the Outer Banks in mostly pleasant weather with fewer of your would be best friends around. One drawback to those months is there are fewer amenities open, but you can still usually find a good place to eat or drink. The weather is so pleasant during those shoulder season months that beach walks are a favorite activity any time of the day or evening.
Is it just me or are the lifeguards getting younger and younger?
When to visit the Outer Banks
The Outer Banks are barrier islands that jut out into the Atlantic Ocean from the coast of North Carolina. The waters off these islands are known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic due to the numerous shipwrecks, frequent rough seas, and treacherous, often shifting shoals. The maps of wrecks you can buy throughout the Outer Banks show many sunken ships just off these shores. This means the sea lanes for cargo ships and cruise ships lay far enough off the coast so for the most part you won’t see the big ships passing by far out at sea from the Outer Banks. That means when you look out to sea after sunset, it is usually peaceful and dark with only the sound of waves and the lights of the stars overhead. Just keep in mind it also means that, for the most part, the Outer Bank beaches are not great shelling beaches. However, they are great beaches for walking. If you had enough energy and time you could walk for miles on the beach, from Corolla in the north all the way to Nags Head further south. On the Hatteras National Seashore you can walk the southern Outer Banks for a long way without seeing much except the beach, ocean, dunes, and birds. So a visitor to the Outer Banks can experience beaches stretching out for miles, sand dunes, wild horses on the beaches north of Corolla and on Ocracoke Island, turtle nesting spots, and tons of birds.
Most people go to the Outer Banks off the coast of North Carolina during the summer months. That is when the weather is hot, lifeguards guard the beaches, all the restaurants and bars are open, stores are fully stocked, and there are lots of people enjoying themselves everywhere. However, if you can visit the Outer Banks during spring, April or May, or in the early fall months of September or October, you will experience the Outer Banks in mostly pleasant weather with fewer of your would be best friends around. One drawback to those months is there are fewer open amenities, but you can still usually find a good place to eat or drink. The weather is usually so pleasant during those shoulder season months that beach walks are a favorite activity any time of the day or evening.
If like most people, you plan to go to the Outer Banks in June, July, or August be prepared for the weather to be hot and humid. Most Outer Banks summers have rain crash the party once in awhile, but it is unusual when rain persists all day or for more than a day or two. That leaves plenty of time during a week long visit to sun and swim in the ocean and/or the pool and enjoy the long lazy days of summer and pleasant summer evenings.
Taking a stroll along the beach is the best way to end a long summer vacation day.
Which Outer Banks to visit?
The Outer Banks consists of a series of narrow islands strung out in sort of like a bending point from the North Carolina coast for about 200 miles. Choosing which of these places to stay can be a challenge if you don’t know them. Depending on where you pick to set up house along that 200 mile stretch for a week or two, you can have some town amenities or a more solitary experience. By the way, most if not all, hotels on the Outer Banks require a minimum stay of three nights or as much as a week to book them during the summer season.
There are two essential choices of where to stay on the Outer Banks: either the northern beaches or the southern beaches. Both northern and southern beaches are strung out along Route 12, either on 12N or 12S. It is also possible to stay in Manteo, a pleasant small town over the causeway from the mainland on Roanoke Island which is located between the Outer Banks and the mainland. However, most people want to stay as close to a beach as possible. So which should it be? Northern or Southern? I’m going to focus on the northern part of the Outer Banks in Part 1. Tune back in for Part 2 and the southern part of the Outer Banks coming next week.
Nothing beats those walks on the beach during summer.
The Northern Beaches
The Northern beaches include the well established towns of Nags Head, Kill Devil Hills (KDH), and Kitty Hawk. These towns have both 12N (aka, the Virginia Dare Trail or beach road) closer to the ocean side along with the larger inland four lane Croatan Highway that can zip you through these towns. Going further north from Kitty Hawk on 12N are Southern Shores, Duck, and the village of Corolla. Going even further north past Corolla, beyond the paved road (access is driving on the beach itself) is Carova, an area of humongous homes on sand streets and older fisherman cottages on inlets off the Currituck Sound.
Coming from Virginia or points north, you drive south toward the Outer Banks on Route 168. In North Carolina, that road turns into US 158 East and is the road that goes over the bridge into the Outer Banks. Once over the bridge you arrive on the Outer Banks at the northern edge of Kitty Hawk and the southern edge of Southern Shores. Once there you go straight to the intersection of Route 12 and the Croatan Highway (you can’t miss it and you can’t go east any further). You turn right there onto the Croatan Highway to travel south through Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nag’s Head. After Nag’s Head, then you leave the Croatan Highway and you can either turn onto the bridge going west toward Roanoke Island and return that way to the mainland or merge onto 12S heading toward the southern Outer Banks. If you turn left off of US 158 once you are over the bridge and on the Outer Banks at the intersection of Route 12 and the Croatan Highway, then you are on 12N heading toward the more northern Outer Banks towns.
Traffic on 12N can become a real problem late in the afternoon on a Saturday.
Summer month visitors should know that 12N, the main road going north (and south) through Southern Shores toward Duck, Corolla, and Carova, experiences very heavy traffic congestion on Saturdays and Sundays during the summer months. On Saturdays in the summer try to not get caught in that essentially non-moving north-south traffic. You will be sorry if you do! It can, quite literally, take two or more hours to travel just four miles. On those Saturdays, the traffic coming over the bridge into Kitty Hawk and then turning left to go north on 12N is bad from about 9AM until at least 3PM. Sometimes the horrible traffic starts even earlier and lasts longer! It’s all the cars arriving on Saturday for their vacation week in Southern Shores, Duck, Corolla, and Carova trying to fit into one two lane road at the same time. Note, that those turning right onto the Croatan Highway on their way further south to Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nags Head do not have the same experience. However, on those Saturdays, the traffic while still on the mainland US 158 before crossing over the bridge to the Outer Banks also backs up due to the 12N congestion so everyone using that route to the beach gets caught somewhere in stop and go traffic. If using US 158 East to get to the Outer Banks on these summer Saturdays, I recommend going early and making sure you have plenty of gas in your car well before you get near to the bridge.
Regarding Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nag’s Head, remember that choosing a location is all about easy beach access. You want to stay as close to the beach as you can possibly afford. You don’t want to have to cross Route 12, a two lane but well used road, if at all possible. Still many places in between Route 12N and the Croatan Highway in Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nags Head are not far from the beach access points or too far to walk to the beach easily. Do not stay between the Croatan Highway and the Sound unless you are prepared to bike or drive to the beach, including crossing over an extremely busy 4 to 5 lane highway. You can find cheaper accommodations there, but it is at the expense of being pretty far from the beach and dealing with lots of traffic every time you go out. And when I say heavy traffic, I mean really, really heavy traffic during the summer months. During June, July, and August in 2018, about 212,036 people visited just one tourist site, the Wright Brothers National Memorial. So you can see that lots of people visit the northern Outer Banks towns during the summer. Just about every one of those visitors comes by car which makes these northern beach towns crowded with cars and people traveling Route 12 and the Croatan Highway. However, even with all that hassle of getting to a beach access point, some people do like to find a place on the soundside in KDH or Nags Head. Doing so gives them the opportunity to enjoy the beautiful sight of the sun setting in the evening to the west over the sound.
The OBX beaches can get very busy during the summer.
Kitty Hawk
Kitty Hawk is the oldest beach town in the northern Outer Banks. Many of its homes and buildings reflect that. Because of the older age of many of the homes and buildings, it does offer many places to stay at possibly the most reasonable price in the Outer Banks. But, be aware the beach is rather narrow in many places and, in my opinion, is not as visually appealing as in the other northern beach towns. Kitty Hawk does offer public beach access walkways and some public parking spots. However, the walkways to the beach in Kitty Hawk usually have people walking right through the dunes without a protective boardwalk or other way of keeping the dunes from being harmed. A good plus for staying in Kitty Hawk is it can save you some money while still allowing you to be within a short driving distance of many things to do.
Kill Devil Hills
Kill Devil Hills, also known as KDH, lies in between Kitty Hawk and Nags Head. It offers many comfortable homes and apartments for rent along with a few hotels here and there. KDH offers a nice beach with various public access points, some public parking spaces (not really enough to meet the summer demand) on the access points, and public parking lots. When looking for public parking spaces in KDH and Nags Head, look for the blue and white signs with an orange sun in the middle. These indicate public beach access and some parking. Most homes in KDH that lie between 12N and the Croatan Highway are not that far from the beach and can offer a good compromise between paying large amounts to be right on the beach and not being too far away from the beach. KDH also offers visitors plenty to do: the Wright Brothers National Memorial; easily accessible grocery shopping; miniature golf; a YMCA, movie theaters; a golf course; specialty shopping, breweries, wine stores, and plenty of good restaurants and bars. If you are or have young adults (drinking age or above) in your party, then KDH or Nags Head are good choices for you. There is plenty to do other than beach activities and enough variety of nightlife activities and places to keep people active and happy.
A woman and her dogs exploring Jockey’s Ridge State Park as a summer storm rolls in.
Nags Head
Nags Head is also a fairly well developed town and offers many choices of places to stay. The beaches in Nags Head are good and are also being replenished after suffering from some severe storms in the last few years. There are many types of places to stay including homes, hotels, apartments, and condos at different price points. Again, it is probably best to pick your location as close to the beach as possible and make sure the busy Croatan Highway is to the west of anywhere you pick. Nags Head also offers several public beach access points, some public parking spaces (in many places still not really enough to meet the summer demand) on the access points, and public parking lots. During the summer months it is probably best to grab your beach parking spot before 10AM or 11AM as most public parking fills up quickly. I recommend checking out the lovely Nags Head beach area of Coquina Beach. It’s at the town’s southern end and has soft sand, a wide area between the dunes and the water, facilities, and a public parking lot. But remember, during the summer months on the Outer Banks your best bet is to rent somewhere where you don’t need to drive in order to get your beach access. Nags Head has many fast food places, wonderful restaurants and bars, the Outer Banks outlet mall, the Outer Banks hospital, a golf course, movie theater, miniature golf, a ropes course, and Jockey’s Ridge State Park. Jockey’s Ridge State Park is where the tallest natural sand dunes in the East Coast are located and is a fun spot for hang gliding or watching the sun set in the west. Located just over the bridge going west from Nags Head on US 64 is Manteo where it can be fun to stroll the downtown, see the historic sights and aquarium, and stop for a beer and lunch. If you are going to Nags Head or the Outer Banks from North Carolina or further west pick up US 64 in Raleigh, NC and take it all the way east until you reach Nags Head. Congestion on US 64 is nowhere as bad, even on summer Saturdays, as it gets for those using the Route 168 to 158 route up further north to get onto the Outer Banks. Going south from Nags Head on Route 12S takes you to the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and then on further south to the southern beaches.
Southern Shores
Southern Shores is the town just north of Kitty Hawk, above KDH and Nags Head. The island through here is fairly narrow along 12N, although there is a lovely residential area between 12N and the sound. Southern Shores is a mostly quiet residential beachfront community. Be aware, as stated earlier, that 12N going through Southern Shores gets very congested on summer Saturdays. The beaches at Southern Shores are accessible through public access walkways for those not staying right on the beachfront; however, there is no public parking for beach access use in Southern Shores. Also, parking is not allowed on any street in Southern Shores.
I really recommend checking out Duck Donuts next time you’re in Duck.
Duck
Duck is the next town going north past Southern Shores. In my humble opinion, Duck is the nicest beach town of them all. The village of Duck has a lovely 11 acre Town Park with a public green, playground, trails, picnic areas, and amphitheater for outdoor gatherings. The park offers weekly summer activities including free music concerts one night a week, often daily yoga or an exercise activity in the early am, along with some weekly children’s activities. The town’s boardwalk is a bit over a mile long on the Currituck Sound with access to the town park and the many shops and places to eat along the sound front. Don’t forget to stop and get your donut from Duck Donuts just off the boardwalk. Also, there are several good places to shop, either along the boardwalk or just across the street under the many shaded outdoor shopping areas. Duck has a great selection of restaurants and shops. It offers a good selection of rentals from condos, timeshares, resort hotels, and homes. Many places to rent between 12N and the beach can be expensive, but some timeshare or condos may offer reasonable availability. Plan ahead to snag those places. Duck has a great beach - wide enough to walk on even when the tide is in. There are lifeguards on the beach during the daylight hours. The further north you go on the Duck beach, the fewer people there are to share the beach with you. Duck does not offer any public beach access. But if you stay in Duck, your place will offer beach access. There is a shared public pedestrian and bike-way that extends along 12N from Southern Shores through Duck up to Corolla.
Driving on the beach just north of Corolla can be a lot of fun.
Corolla
Corolla is an old village, but is the most recently developed northern beach town. It is centered around a fishing village core, but has spread out along the beach and 12N in recent years. Corolla offers a beautiful wide beach in most places, eight public access beach parking lots, and lots of different types of places to rent. Corolla also has a fun real grass miniature golf course, a community pool area with gym access, a shopping center, movie theater, and some good restaurants scattered throughout the area. The wonderful old Whalehead Club sits beside a golf course. The Whalehead Club offers public wine tastings most Wednesday summer afternoons, public building tours, and other programing. Once you get north past Corolla and into Carova, there are the wild horses to see. People are not allowed to get too close to the horses, but there are several companies which provide good tours to see the wild horses. Close to Corolla village is the red brick Currituck Beach Lighthouse which offers climbers (220 steps) panoramic views of the village and beaches from its top.
Three Places to Visit on the Golden Circle
The Golden Circle is neither golden nor a circle. The Golden Circle is really just a marketing term. However, that said, it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go and experience this wonderful part of Iceland. What the Golden Circle really is, is a wonderful day trip for visitors to Iceland.
Iceland’s Golden Circle: Popular For A Good Reason
Please be careful when visiting the Golden Circle and make good decisions!
The Golden Circle is neither golden nor a circle. The Golden Circle is really just a marketing term. However, that said, it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go and experience this wonderful part of Iceland. What the Golden Circle really is, is a wonderful day trip for visitors to Iceland.
You can access this great day trip by paying for a bus tour or even renting a car and driving yourself to the big three stops. There are additional stops to visit along the way while exploring the Golden Circle, but I’m going to stick with the top three stops which make the Golden Circle worth your time and a day of driving or riding. The three places that make up the core of the Golden Circle experience are: Pingvellir or Thingvellir National Park; Geysir and Strokkur; and Gullfoss.
Please keep in mind that all three of these places are very much on the radar of everyone visiting Iceland. These are not places you visit to escape the hordes of tourists. However, each of these places is entirely worth every person that bumps into you, walks into your photo, or asks you for directions. Each place is absolutely wonderful in its own way.
Pingvellir National Park
Thingvellir National Park is full of natural beauty.
Pingvellir National Park, also known as Thingvellir by English speakers, is a truly important site for the Icelandic people. Vikings established what is said to be the world’s first democratic parliament here in 930 CE. It became Iceland’s first national park in 1930. In 2004, Thingvellir also became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To this day, you can still find some foundations from those ancient camps located in this park. This park is also known for being a place where the earth’s European and North American tectonic plates meet. Thingvellir National Park has some waterfalls, ponds, and streams. With the mountains behind all of these marvelous sights of natural beauty, you can be forgiven for thinking that you have left the real world and somehow stepped into a fairy tale.
You can find the Park Service Center on Route 36. If you’re arriving from Reykjavik, then the visitor center should be just beyond the intersection and on your left. I recommend that you purchase your parking pass and pick up a map of the park from one of the rangers there as well as buy any snacks and/or drinks you might require. Use of the bathroom was free with a purchase of food or drink when I was there. Note - the bathroom that I saw later inside the park was not free. When you’re ready to visit the park, you’ll make the turn onto route 361. You’ll be on 361 for only a little bit before you will see a fork in the road. Go to the right. You’ll see a parking lot called P2 on your right. I recommend that you park in P2, if at all possible. If you’re able to find a spot in P2, then walk up the hill in front of P2. That path will lead you to a T intersection. If you go left, then you’ll get to see Oxararfoss. This waterfall beautifully flows down onto some rocks. When I was there, the short hike to Oxarafoss was filled with many people. I recommend that you get some photos and enjoy the sound of the water roaring and crashing onto the rocks. I recommend visiting Logberg or the Law Rock next. Simply put this where laws were recited, speeches where given, and legal actions were given during the days of the Alpine or old parliament. It is a cool place to learn more about Iceland’s history of government and laws. From Logberg you should consider making your way up to the top of the hill.
At the top of the hill is the Hakid viewpoint as well as another visitor center and bathrooms that you must pay to use. After you’re done soaking in the view from the top, it’ll be time to make your way down again. I recommend making your way to the P5 parking lot at the bottom of the hill instead of the path you took to get to the view point. Walk through P5 and over the bridge. Make a left there and spend a few minutes exploring the area surrounding the church. If nothing else, it is a beautiful little walk. Once you pass the church, then you’ll make your way to the area where you walk between two continents. Look for Flosagja on your map or just ask someone walking by. The water in this rift was clear with an incredible blue tint when I was there. You might get lucky and see some divers exploring the rift. It is here that you can walk back and forth across the bridge between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. It’s not often you get an opportunity to walk between two continents! Please respect the signs and don’t throw change into the water. From Flosagja head back to your car that you parked in P2 or explore more of the beautiful places found in Thingvellir National Park.
Thingvellir National Park is a must for nature lovers.
Rules of Thingvellir National Park
All of the nature inside the park is protected. Do not mess with any natural or man-made feature.
Do not damage the vegetation. No fires are permitted within the park.
No littering in the park.
Do not drive off road.
Owners must keep all dogs on a leash and clean up after their pets.
There are many fissures, cracks, and other hazards inside the park. Guests must be aware of this and take care when walking around the park.
You may only camp at designated campsites. Camping permits can be bought at the visitor center at Leirar. Camping quiet hours are midnight to 8 AM.
Angling or fishing permits are also sold at the visitor center.
Boats must not be launched from National Park Land.
Drunkenness will not be tolerated in the park. Expect to be kicked out of the park if you are drunk.
You can find additional information by visiting www.thingvellir.is.
You won’t be the only one visiting the park.
Geysir
Everyone is waiting for Strokkur to put on a show.
Geysir is another one of Iceland’s most popular places to visit. You’ll know that’s the truth when you see the parking lot or visitor center across the road when the area is busy. I had to find a parking spot way in the back, but thankfully parking is ample at the complex housing Geysir. The name Geysir means gusher. This is the water spout that all others are named after. Although Geysir has been active for maybe as long as 800 years, it has been in a period of lessened activity since 1916. Eruptions these days are rare, but an earthquake has been known to stir Geysir from its slumber. Have no fear though, there is another more active geyser that sits nearby. Strokkur is the reason you will visit the Haukadalur geothermal region. Most of Strokkur’s eruptions that I witnessed occurred within a few minutes of each other. It has been said that you’ll rarely have to wait for for more than ten minutes to see the hot water shoot into the air. Remember to stand down wind only if you want a shower. Also, be prepared for the sulfur rotten eggs smell. The geothermal area containing Geysir and Strokkur was free when I was there, but there is talk of possibly charging a fee in the future. Honestly, I think they should charge a small fee to get into the park in order to help raise more money to keep the area clean. The area wasn’t necessarily dirty when I was there, but there were so many tourists visiting during the short time I was there. I can only imagine how a few full trash cans could lead to a mess that could ruin the majesty of the geothermal area.
Strokkur putting on a show for the tourists.
Honestly, unless you’re taking a tour there really isn’t much to see once you’ve done the loop around the complex and watched a few of the shows put on by Strokkur. I recommend making this the spot to stop for food at the visitor center if needed and hitting the highlights of the complex. That will allow you to spend more time at Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss, or add another stop to your itinerary for the day.
Gullfoss
If you’re lucky, then you’ll witness a rainbow over Gullfoss.
If you’ve done any research already on Iceland, then you’ve heard of Gullfoss. Proof of that can be found in the massive parking lot for Gullfoss. When I was there the parking lot was just as full or even more full than the one at Geysir. It took me several minutes of driving around to finally find a parking spot as someone was leaving. There is a nice shop, cafe, and information center at the top. I recommend checking them out. If you haven’t heard of this waterfall, then boy, you’re in for a treat. This waterfall is a total monster! It is massive to the point that it almost seems unreal. If you’re lucky like I was, then you’ll get to see a rainbow over Gullfoss. The paths around Gullfoss are well maintained as indeed they should be. You’ll be visiting Iceland’s most famous waterfall with thousands of your newest friends. Be prepared to wait your turn to get a front row view of the waterfall from its popular viewpoints. Please respect the ropes, barriers, and signs telling you to stay back. If you cross the ropes or barriers and fall, I don’t see that ending well. It’s a long way down with millions of gallons of water swiftly moving below you. That awesome selfie or unique photo isn’t worth your life. Be sure to stop and read the signs that tell the story of Gullfoss and how it was almost destroyed by a dam being built. Thankfully Gullfoss is now protected after being donated in 1975. It is now a nature reserve.
For more information visit www.gullfoss.is.
These tourists are on the wrong side of the barrier.
Expect between driving and spending time at these three places for you to be out all day. In addition, you probably can easily make time to throw in an extra site during your daytrip. However, one thing to consider during your visit to Iceland is the amount of time you have available and how much of that time you are willing to spend at each place you visit. There is just so much to see! You might want to consider seeing Thingvellir, Geysir, and Gullfoss one day and the other places around the Golden Circle on another day.
Gullfoss will remind you how powerful nature really is.
Eight Places to Explore on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
I recommend going to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula whenever you are able to go. It is simply an incredible place full of beautiful scenery. Be prepared for somewhat chilly weather and the strong winds, but make sure you get out and see this place. One great bonus to visiting here is it is hard to take a bad photo here due to the interesting natural formations. In addition, there are so many hiking opportunities, each of which offers a memorable vista, that it can be hard to choose so I recommend spending as much time as you are able to do so on the Peninsula.
Welcome to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula!
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a landscape photographer’s dream.
Be aware that pretty much all of the places I am reviewing will be very popular with tourists on any day with nice weather. I visited Iceland in March and the weather then was mostly rather nice, but still a bit chilly. The mountains still had some snow on them and looked very beautiful. The wind can be a little strong. On several occasions I had trouble either opening or closing my rental car’s door. You’ll see signs in Iceland in some areas warning you about the wind. The wind in Iceland can be no joke, but in most cases nothing to be worried about.
To take the fullest advantage of your time in Snaefellsnes, I recommend staying somewhere on the peninsula if at all possible. I also recommend staying for a couple nights if you can. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t have the time to do that during my stay in Iceland. However, I was able to make a day trip into the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. When I say day trip, I mean that I left at sunrise and got back to my hotel at sunset. Driving from the Fossatún Country Hotel to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, around the peninsula, stopping at various places, and driving back to the hotel took an entire day. It made for a lovely day of seeing new places, snapping some photos, and exploring Iceland. However, there were several times when I had to decide to skip something in order to see something else or to quickly rush through a place. If at all possible, I recommend the Snæfellsnes Peninsula be part of your touring plan for one great Icelandic day or two!
The following are my eight places that I recommend to explore on the peninsula. These eight places offer some of the best sights of the Peninsula. Seeing them offers you a great experience for one of your days while in Iceland. There are many more places to see, but if you’re tight on time then definitely consider checking out these eight stops.
I still don’t understand how this is comfortable.
Ytri Tunga
If you are driving from the south, Ytri Tunga will be on your left on the coast. You can be forgiven for missing the sign due to being distracted by the sight of the beautiful mountains on the other side of the road. After all, the sign for Ytri Tunga is relatively small, easy to miss, and all the natural beauty of the area does distract you. This is a good spot to see seals resting on rocks. I hope you are as lucky as I was on my visit. I couldn’t get too close out of respect for their right to be undisturbed, but my telephoto lens did let me zoom in on them for a closer look. I could see their cute faces as they did what appeared to be seal yoga on the rocks. If you decide to get closer to take a photo, be careful that you do not disturb them. If you’re affecting their behavior in any way, you are too close. Also, I must warn you that this is a place that some big bus tours can and do stop to let tourists get out and look. You’ll know when that happens because there will be a flood of tourists walking around; however, the busses did not stay for too long while I was there. When the flood of tourists left for their next stop, the crowd size went way down and I felt some relative peace and quiet once again. The place is wonderful even with all the tourists, but it takes on a whole ‘nother level of beauty when it’s just you, a few seals, the rocks, and the ocean tide rolling in.
The black church stands in stark contrast to the colorful mountains behind it.
Búðakirkja or The Black Church of Búðir
On the southern coast of the peninsula is the Black Church of Búðir. The Black Church has an interesting story. The legend is the church’s location was chosen when an old woman suggested making a man spin in circles until he became dazed. The man shot three arrows into the air and where the third arrow landed was to be the church’s location. So that is where Bent Lárusson built the church in 1703. Unfortunately that church rotted away. The church was rebuilt in 1848 by Steinunn Sveninsdóttir after she had a dream in which Bent Lárusson asked her to rebuilt it. In 1984 the church was moved to its present location and renovated to ensure it was as it was in 1848. It and its historic graveyard sit in a pretty isolated spot. The Black Church is indeed painted black which really makes it stand out from its natural surroundings. It is a great place for a photo stop since the church makes a contrast against the glacier and the mountain ridge backdrop. There is a nice and easy hiking area just past the church. There are also a couple really good places to stop along the path and take some photos of the ocean and mountains, have a picnic, enjoy the vistas, or do something a bit more serious.
She said yes! I got to be the first person to congratulate them.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula can make you feel small.
Rauðfeldsgjá
My discovery of Rauðfeldsgjá was completely accidental. I stopped the car at a parking lot on the side of the road after seeing the lot was halfway full and that people were walking up a snowy path to enter what looked like from a distance to be a cave. I found a parking spot, grabbed my daypack along with my camera gear and then started up the snowy path. After almost falling twice due to slippery conditions, I arrived at the opening in the mountain. What I found there was not a cave at all. It was a frozen waterfall that some were poking their heads in to look at and others were climbing. It didn’t look too bad, so I thought what could be the harm in climbing up a bit. I had no doubt that there would be some cool images to capture along the way.
At the base of the frozen waterfall I met a guy from the States that had the same idea. We both started to climb with our cameras strapped to us. At that point, the frozen waterfall was nowhere near vertical, but rather more of steep incline that one could hike up while using hands as an added extra point of contact for stability. The process wasn’t fast, but not entirely slow. He was in the lead and I followed putting my hands and feet where he had just been as we hiked up the ice. It wasn’t long before we rounded the first bend. The path was pretty well laid for us by those that must of made a similar journey earlier in the day or in the days before. Once I rounded the first bend, I saw before me a gap on the left side of the ice about the width of an average adult. There was no real way of telling how far down this gap running the length of the frozen waterfall went. I followed that discovery with seeing that there was another gap in the ice ahead of me that created a ledge. To get to that ledge on the other side of this second gap one must use their hands to pull themselves up to it in order to continue the adventure.
At that moment I thought to myself that a smart person would have told the other guy that was enough and turned back. I fully admit that my next decision was not my brightest moment. I hadn’t truly gone far, could easily get myself up there, and wanted at least one good image from the experience, so I continued on after this person that I had only met just a few minutes previously. After clearing the gap, he and I preceded forward and upward. Next, the ice took almost a sharp right turn and became even more steep. Thankfully, there were enough dents left in the ice by those who had scaled it before that I could use them to climb using my hands and feet. However, by this time I had lost my climbing partner due to my inability to keep pace with him and almost falling. I finally realized that I was in effect not getting anything worth seeing or photographing and using such a large amount of time to get effectively nothing worthwhile. So I decided it was time to turn back.
It’s a long way back down.
It was at this point in my climb that I turned around and looked down. I had forgotten one simple rule of climbing or hiking in general: the ascent is only half the trip. I now was forced to confront the very real problem of how to get back down a somewhat dramatic drop of solid ice with hiking shoes that had a good grip, but were not made for this sort of climbing. As I looked down, I saw the gap between the ice and the wall of stone down at the turn just after the ledge of the elevated area of ice was about forty feet below me. My lack of any alternatives were apparent at that moment, so I decided to make a slow go of it downward. The process of descending was a time consuming affair filled with a couple minor slips for at least the first fifteen feet or so. Then at some point the ice gave way where I had just eased my full weight. What followed was what I can only describe as a blur as I slid on my butt down the frozen waterfall rounding the turn. I barely missed falling through the gap between the ice and stone on what was now my right side and sliding over the ledge that I had only recently climbed over. By mere inches, I also missed crashing into a young woman from Bavaria waiting for her friends. As she looked down at me with just as much amazement as I was stunned, the only thing I could think to say was “What’s up?” After speaking with her and her friends for a moment while trying to catch my breath and compose myself, I made the small leap down to the ice on the lower platform. Then I thankfully made my way down the last bit of ice and out onto the slippery path that led me to my car. It wasn’t until when I got back later that night that I realized my pants had a hole in them clean through to my underwear from where I had slid.
Walking around Arnarstapi is like walking in a painting.
Arnarstapi
Arnarstapi is a small town on the southern part of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The town is at least a couple hours from Reykjavik. You could get up really early and drive from the capital, but an alternative would be to consider using Arnarstapi as a base to explore the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. When you arrive in town, look for a statue of a troll made out of rocks. Park your car nearby and hit the trails directly behind the troll. You’ll be walking toward the sea. As you get closer to the ocean you should see a somewhat small viewing platform which allows one to get a better look at the coast. During this hike you will stroll along the coast seeing how the ocean over time has shaped the rocky coastline into something unusual and beautiful. As you follow the path you will likely run into the famous arch rock that everyone loves to photograph. It’s called Gatklettur. Please respect the rope and sign telling you to stay back from the edge overlooking Gatklettur. I saw a few people ignore the rope and get very close to edge of the cliff. One wrong step or an unexpected gust of wind could of changed their day completely. I can’t imagine anyone that would want to end their vacation in Iceland by falling off a cliff just to get a photograph. Also, there is a trail that runs between Arnarstapi and nearby Hellnar. It’s a wonderful walk with even more amazing views. It’s definitely worth the time and effort. One thing you realize as you explore this area is this isn’t a place to rush. The area around Arnarstapi is a great place to take it slow and enjoy the area’s natural beauty. I highly recommend doing just that.
I really enjoyed driving around Snæfellsjökull National Park.
Snæfellsjökull National Park
This excellent national park is fairly new as it was established on June 28, 2001. Snæfellsjökull glacier lies within the national park. The glacier is thought to be one of the seven great energy centers of the earth. I couldn’t actually feel that, but I did enjoy driving through the area as it is simply a beautiful drive. The Gestastofa Visitor Center found inside the park contains some well presented displays and provides background about what you can see and do in the park. You’ll be able to find detailed information there about the interesting geology of the area. Visitor Center hours are generally 10 AM to 5 PM from late April through October and 11 AM to 4 PM Monday to Friday the rest of the year. They may be closed during Christmas week and New Year’s Day. Check their website for up to date information at https://ust.is/snaefellsjokull-national-park/
The Malarrif Lighthouse offers an interesting landscape to explore.
Malarrif Lighthouse
The Malarrif Lighthouse was first built in 1917 and then rebuilt in 1946. To get to the Malarrif Lighthouse take the path from the National Park’s visitor center. It is a white lighthouse just a short walk away. The lighthouse was locked when I was there. I don’t think you can go inside. However, I was the only one there. I got to enjoy the breeze coming in off the ocean, the views, and the peace and quiet all to myself as I explored the area around the lighthouse. The grounds around the lighthouse are made of lava formations which are quite unusual. The view of the ocean and the whole area around the lighthouse is gorgeous.
Places like Londramgar prove that nature is art. The whole place feels like something out of a painting.
Londrangar
At Londrangar are two ancient volcanic basalt stacks or pillars. Erosion over the centuries has left these two sticking up high in the air on the edge of the sea. The tallest one sticks up 75 meters or 246 feet. The shorter pillar is 61 meters high or 200 feet. The pillars are often used by puffins to nest on during warmer weather. There is a parking lot nearby where you can leave your car to go see the pillars. You can get closer to the structures, but the view of the landscape from afar was beautiful enough for me. Be aware there can be a strong wind on the pathways in this area. Anywhere near the beach in Iceland you should be wary of the wind and waves as they can be quite strong and unexpected at times.
You don’t visit Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss to be alone.
Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss
It is said that Kirkjufell is the most photographed mountain in all of Iceland. It will certainly feel that way when you try to find a parking spot or a place to take a photograph of the mountain. Both Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss use the same small parking lot. Kirkjufell means Church Mountain because it supposedly resembles a church steeple. It rises upwards to around 1,519 feet and makes for a great stop to take photographs. Within an easy walking distance from Kirkjufell is the Kirkjufellsfoss which means Church Mountain Waterfall. It is an incredibly quick walk to get to a spot where you can take the iconic photograph with Kirkjufellsfoss in the foreground and Kirkjufell in the background. However, it might not be so quick to wait your turn to take a photo if one of the tour buses just let loose a wave of tourists.
On a day with nice weather it can be difficult to capture an image of the mountain without other tourists in it. That is especially the case if you’re trying to incorporate Kirkjufellsfoss or the waterfall into the foreground of your image. I recommend either incorporating the other tourists into your composition something akin to street photography or using software to remove the other people in post processing. Kirkjufell is popular, but I noticed most tourists don’t spend too much time at this stop before they are back on the road to the next “must see” on their list. I recommend spending a few extra minutes here and just enjoying the view. Also, very few people turned around to really notice the scenic mountains that are behind you when you are facing Kirkjufell. This whole area is stunningly beautiful and it deserves at least a bit of your time.
There is just so much to explore on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
I have only included a small portion of the many possible things to do and see while visiting the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. I recommend going to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula whenever you are able to go. It is simply an incredible place full of beautiful scenery. Be prepared for somewhat chilly weather and the strong winds, but make sure you get out and see this place. One great bonus to visiting here is it is hard to take a bad photo here due to the interesting natural formations. In addition, there are so many hiking opportunities, each of which offers a memorable vista, that it can be hard to choose so I recommend spending as much time as you are able to do so on the Peninsula.
A good guide book is worth the cost.
Road Trip Advice For Iceland
When visiting Iceland, many people plan a driving trip around the country. It is the best way, as well as often the only way, to see many of Iceland’s best sights. I’ve included here some of the best tips that I found helpful on my recent trip to Iceland.
Stay focused on the road and not the beautiful scenery.
When visiting Iceland, many people plan a driving trip around the country. It is the best way, as well as often the only way, to see many of Iceland’s best sights. I’ve included here some of the tips that I found helpful on my recent trip to Iceland.
Consider these two planning resources.
Purchase a guidebook to help you as the guidebook puts all the important bits and pieces of Iceland information into one easily accessible place (I prefer Lonely Planet).
Check out https://www.inspiredbyiceland.com/ for a good overall visitor’s guide to Iceland. It has a good section on driving in Iceland along with other websites to visit regarding such information as weather conditions.
Use http://www.road.is for relatively up to date road conditions with helpful webcams.
Driving is an amazing way to see and experience Iceland.
Iceland Tips.
1. You can easily see Þingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss on the Golden Circle during one day of driving.
2. Rent your car at the Reykjavik airport. You can grab a free shuttle from the airport to your car rental company. Honestly, if you don’t have many bags or people with you, you can walk from the airport to most of them. Either way, the rental car agencies are not far from the airport.
Some of the back roads can be a bit narrow.
Iceland Driving Advice.
Remember you drive on the right side of the road in Iceland (just as in the US, Austria, France, Spain, Switzerland, and many other countries.)
You can use your American driver’s license to drive in Iceland. Also, Canadian and countries of the European Economic Area (EEA) driver’s licenses are alright to use for driving in Iceland. Other licenses are alright to use as long as on the license itself it includes: license number, holder’s photograph, valid date, and is printed in Latin characters All others will need to get an International Driver’s License to drive in Iceland. Also note: the minimum age to drive in Iceland is 20 and you must have held a full (not restricted) license for at least one year.
Iceland car rentals require a valid driver’s license, a passport, and a credit card.
Do NOT drink and drive. Iceland takes drinking and driving very seriously. The blood alcohol test level is low at .05%. The penalties for DUI/DWI are stiff. The base fine for a first offense is about 70,000 Kronur or $625.00.
Always have your headlights on. It’s the law in Iceland due to long low light summer days or the short dark winter days and during the spring or fall when the sun sits low in the sky the sunlight can be blinding to a driver. Also, the law says you must use seat belts.
Don’t drive while using your cell phone unless you have a hands-free system. Iceland is strict about this. The base fine for it is about 5000 Kronur or $45.00.
Note that, unlike in the U.S., turning right on a red light is illegal.
I found that driving in Iceland got a lot easier the further away from Reykjavik I went.
There are two big concerns with driving in Iceland. First, be aware of the need to keep your eyes ON the road. Iceland has an incredible scenery. Thus, it can be extremely distracting. Too, remember not all the other drivers will be keeping their eyes on the road. This makes it even more imperative that you drive defensively and be aware of all the cars around you. Second, once you get outside of Reykjavik you will most likely not see many police looking for speeders. However, you will most certainly run across speed cameras. If you’re going too fast in front of the cameras, then you will get a ticket. Nobody wants a souvenir like that. You will see a small sign with a camera on it shortly before each speed camera zone. I saw most of these cameras located near populated areas, but it is definitely a good idea to avoid speeding everywhere just to be safe. The speed limits in Iceland are: 50 km/h or 31 mph in urban areas; 80 km/h or 50 mph on gravel roads; and 90 km/h or 56 mph on paved hard surface roads. Also, unlike in the U.S., while there may be special warning signs indicating problems ahead like sharp bends, there is usually no separate road sign to tell you to reduce your speed. Beware of the sharp turns.
Some countryside bridges are single lane bridges. Be very careful when approaching and crossing these bridges.
Some roads will force you to transition from pavement to gravel as you get further from Reykjavik and the Ring Road that goes around most of the country. Be aware that some car rental companies will count any gravel damage against you if you do not have the insurance. It’s best to make the transition to these gravel roads slowly or you might lose traction on the gravel road. Most highland roads in Iceland’s interior are very narrow gravel roads which are not made to handle any kind of speed travel at all.
It is not necessary to rent a car rated for the F roads unless you plan on driving on one of the F roads. However, you might want to have the peace of mind that comes with having a raised SUV that can handle the worst road conditions that you might encounter. I was thankful that I had a F road rated vehicle when I almost got stuck in the West Fjords area outside of Drangsnes. However, you absolutely do not need all wheel drive or 4 x 4 vehicles if you only plan on driving in the capital or staying on Iceland’s Ring Road.
Driving off road is illegal. Do not do it!
The wind in Iceland is no joke. Be careful opening and closing your car doors on windy days. Some days it was downright impossible to open my car door into the wind.
If you see sheep, slow down. Watch for them to cross the road in front of you.
Fuel in Iceland is extremely expensive. Be sure to budget extra money for it. The only ways that I can think of to avoid this money drain are to stay in the capital or take a tour instead of driving yourself. Remember to fuel up the car whenever possible. Think ahead about putting fuel into your car. If you are going out into the countryside, check ahead to find where is the next gas station. You want to be enjoying the scenery, not worrying about whether you can find a gas station. Be aware, even on the Ring Road, there are some long stretches where there are no gas stations.
I only came across one toll in Iceland. That toll was to use a tunnel on my way to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. You can avoid this toll, but driving around this tunnel will add a considerable amount of time and fuel cost to your drive. It’s honestly better to just pay the toll, especially if you’re in a time crunch.
Iceland’s weather can be unpredictable. Check the forecast when you can to keep up to date about weather conditions where you are headed.
112 is the Icelandic version of 911 in the United States.
That trip to the Westfjords will take a bit longer without a vehicle.
Money Savers for Car Rentals
Book your car rental for Iceland as far in advance as you can. The earlier, the better rate you will obtain and the more options you will have to choose from. Book a car with unlimited mileage.
Be sure to rent your vehicle before you get to Iceland to ensure you get the size and type of car for your needs.
Create a Rakuten account. Many travel arrangements can be made with Rakuten turned on which means you will eventually get a small percentage of what you spent back in a rebate. If you use the hyperlink that I provided and make a purchase of $25 or more with a new account, I will get a few dollars and you will too. I’ll be able to use the money from Rakuten to help pay for the costs of this website. You can use the money that Rakuten will pay you to help cover that first tank of fuel while on your Icelandic road trip.
Create an Expedia or Travelocity account and book through them - with Rakuten turned on - to get a low price and a % back.
Check out https://www.rentalcars.com/en/ and https://www.autoeurope.com/ These two websites often have the best car rental prices you can find.
You should explore if you can combine your car rental with your flight purchase to save more money by buying as a bundle and get a % back on the deal.
Pay for the rental car insurance. Iceland’s roads are often rough and things happen. Gravel roads often mean dirt, debris, and gravel are kicked up and hit the vehicle. Consider maybe even paying the fee so you can return the vehicle without a full tank (recommended if you are returning your rental vehicle the same day as your flight.)
Thinking about traveling to Iceland? Consider picking up a copy of the guidebook I used to help plan my trip.
The following link is an Amazon affiliate link.
Lonely Planet’s guidebook to Iceland: https://amzn.to/2yG9mMq
Yandup Island Lodge: Panama At Its Best
Yandup Island Lodge is a really special place. Go there to unplug and get away from the daily grind. The resort is remote and rustic, so relax, slow down, enjoy the warm tropical breezes, the incredible scenery, and savor each moment in a such a serene wonderful place.
Why go to Yandup Island Lodge?
Yandup Island Lodge provides a place to unwind and relax, appreciate nature, and learn about another culture in Panama. The resort is on a small private island, part of the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama in the Guna Yala Archipelago. It is part of a semi-autonomous province. You will not find crowds there or any day visitors. Most people that I ran into were staying for one to three nights. The island is surrounded by crystal clear waters - great for snorkeling and swimming off the island’s sandy beach. A nearby island has a whole colony of birds that leave in mass early in the morning and head over toward the mainland. In the evening’s fading light, you can watch these birds fly back in mass to their island nests. That is just one of the beautiful island views. Yandup Island Lodge is a place you visit to get away from your daily routine back home. Warning: your cell phone signal on the island will be spotty at best. I recommend bringing something to read while you spend your time in a hammock relaxing.
Booking the Lodge.
I used the Yandup Island Lodge website to book my stay directly with them. Be aware they require passport information as part of the booking process. The Lodge’s website default language is Spanish. To switch it to English, go to the top right corner of the website and click Espanol/ English. Everything then should be changed into English.
The regular package at Yandup Island Lodge includes transportation between Playon Chico Airport and the Lodge, your lodging, a guide, clean water, three meals a day, and two tours a day. The island itself is small and the cabins or huts are a bit rustic, but the experience is second to none compared to the other places I have visited in Panama. The prices at the time of writing this article are $162 per night for one adult in an over the sea hut and $142 for a seafront hut. While that might seem high, that cost as said does cover more than just where you sleep. It does not cover drinks other than the free water or any rental costs for snorkel or other sports equipment.
The huts are quite comfortable for the resort being so remote.
Yandup Island Lodge offers six over the sea cabins and four seafront cabins, so be sure to book well in advance to guarantee that you’ll get what you want. I rented an over the sea hut and in my humble opinion it is worth the extra money, but you won’t be sorry if you book a seafront hut either. Each hut has a 360 degree roomy balcony with a hammock, a ceiling fan inside the hut, a bookshelf, a private bathroom with a shower, sink, and toilet, and orthopedic mattresses for the two beds in the hut, There are mosquito nets for both beds. Electricity is available 24 hours and is powered by solar panels, but I recommend not trying to charge anything over night.
Keep in mind that there is an additional community fee. You may have to pay the community fee upon arrival at the airport. If not, it’ll be added to your bill at the end of your stay at Yandup. The fee is $10 per adult and $6 per child.
For more information: visit http://yandupisland.com/index.php or to check to see if they have lodging available when you would like to visit use this link: http://yandupisland.com/reservation.php
I hope you’re okay with flying in a small plane.
How to get there can be a bit cumbersome for the uninitiated.
First, you’ll need to fly into Panama City via Tocumen International Airport (PTY) and then catch a ride over to Albrook Airport (PAC). Uber is an option, but you can also call for a regular cab. Once at Albrook Airport you will need to catch a flight from there to Playon Chico (PYC). Albrook is a small airport and the staff will not let you go through security until a specific time that they give you. So I recommend bringing something to entertain yourself while you wait for your time to go through security and to board your flight.
I used https://airpanama.com/home.php to book my flights between Panama City and San Blas. I recommend scheduling your flights to and from Panama and also to and from San Blas on different days. That is just in case there is bad weather or a flight gets delayed or canceled.
Flying in a small plane isn’t so bad.
Be aware that the plane you will be flying in to get to Yandup Island Resort will most likely be a small plane. In order to land at Playon Chico airport, the pilots will fly in low over the jungle as they approach. I recommend getting a window seat only if you can handle hearing the altitude warning signal and seeing how close you really are to the treetops. The plane will land rolling towards the water and will most likely let you out near the water’s edge.
I could make out some of the tree branches as we got closer to Playon Chico!
Once you have landed at the airport, you will need to wait while the airplane is unloaded and takes off again. The reception area for the airport is next to the bridge behind some low walls. You will most likely be asked by airport staff to wait behind those walls while the airplane is unloaded and until it departs. That whole process doesn’t take very long, but it is just something to be aware of.
The runway and the bridge to the community of Yandup are really close together at the Playon Chico Airport.
Staff from the Yandup Island Lodge will greet you soon after you disembark from the plane. They will help you collect your bags. After the plane departs from the airport, you will be taken from the airport by boat to the Lodge nearby. On your way to the Lodge, you will pass by the community of Yandup on your right. The staff for the Yandup Island Lodge are locals from the Yandup community. I received nothing but the warmest of welcomes and some of the best service ever while I stayed at the resort. They are absolutely happy to answer any questions that you might have. I found that the staff were more reserved for the first few hours as I settled in, but opened up more after I unpacked and had the chance to rest.
The Yandup Island Lodge itself is really a very small island with a small beach, but you never know who you will encounter while staying at Yandup. During my week at the resort I saw a private helicopter, a group of NGO workers taking the weekend off, and a myriad of small families each stopping by for a few days.
The food looks good and tastes even better!
Dining at Yandup Island Lodge.
Dining experiences at the Yandup Island Lodge can vary from day to day. Overall, I can’t think of one meal that I would complain about. You won’t either as long as you’re ready to try something new every day. Lunch and dinner are announced by one of the staff blowing into a conch. There is no announcement for breakfast out of respect for people sleeping in. So it is up to you to wake up and get over to breakfast.
The walkway behind the dining area offers a wonderful view of the resort at night.
Meals are served on the back porch of the hut that serves as a kitchen. Every meal was delicious in its own way. If you scan the surrounding sea as you eat, you are likely to see someone from the resort or a local out catching their or maybe even your own next meal. Be prepared for a lot of seafood for lunch and dinner.
Please note that the running water in your hut is not safe for drinking. Free drinking water can be found at the dining area where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served
Activities at Yandup Island Lodge.
Daily activities and what you will find on Yandup Island will vary day to day while staying at the Lodge. I recommend staying at the resort for at least three nights for a better chance of experiencing Yandup in good weather.
Daily tours are posted where you eat your meals. All tours are announced by a conch, just like lunch and dinner. There are two tours every day and these rotate daily. Some tours are more seasonal like the waterfall hike. Staff prefer to do that one when it hasn’t been raining for a few days. This is due in part because the trail to that area can quickly become very muddy and hard to hike. You can pretty much count on the first tour each day to be a trip to a remote island beach assuming the weather is nice. If you can stay for a few days, then you’ll get to visit at least a couple remote island beaches. One of the islands that you will most likely visit is called Iguana Island. Use your time there to relax on the beach and grab some sun, swim, snorkel, or explore the rest of the small island. I stayed at Yandup for about a week and so got the chance to visit Iguana Island as well as another island multiple times.
You can go snorkeling right off this beach at Iguana island!
Be aware that while exploring Iguana Island, you may see or encounter some of the villagers from the Yandup community that rotate time on the island to collect coconuts which are then sold mostly to traders from Columbia. Please follow the instructions of your guide from Yandup Island Lodge. You should not photograph, record, or bother these workers unless you get their permission. The locals are on Iguana island to work and you are on the island as a guest. Please be respectful and stay out of their way.
Living that island life.
The boat ride to the various island tours takes a bit of time and the waves can get a bit choppy. I recommend wearing the life vest that the Lodge gives you and not having anything you don’t mind getting wet out during the boat ride. While not really necessary, a dry bag would have been nice to have had on the boat rides, but unfortunately I had not thought to bring one with me to Yandup. My backpack did the job just fine, but the extra protection of a dry bag would have put my mind a bit more at ease. You’re going to want a towel, sunscreen, bug spray, some water, and maybe a snack for these island tours. The guides that take you to these remote beaches will have a cooler with them to sell you drinks while you are enjoying your beach getaway. I took my own liter bottle filled with the free water from the restaurant back at the resort to save a bit of money.
Just making sure it’s not a dream.
If there is a little light rain in the forecast, you might be treated to a boat ride around some of the nearby islands or a tour of the nearby Yandup community. I recommend on going on the boat tour if the weather is nice. The water is simply beautiful and a real treat for anyone that has never seen truly clear water. From the boat, I saw starfish that must of been the size of my head way far below me. Sometimes I could see through the water to at least twenty feet down. I even saw a couple dolphins at one point as we were crossing open water.
If you want to learn more about the traditions and culture of the Kuna people, then I would recommend going on the tour that visits one of the local graveyards. You’ll learn just how important hammocks are to the Kuna. The Kuna are born in hammocks, copulate in hammocks, and are buried in hammocks. To the Kuna, the hammock represents the womb. It does require a hike to get to the site, including a big hill, but I found the tour totally rewarding.
Exploring the community of Yandup.
If you are interested, there is also a tour of the local community. During the tour, you will be able to see how the Kuna are able to use their hammocks allowing for a large amount of family members to sleep in the same room. Be aware that part of this tour will put you in a situation to buy something from the locals or pay to take a picture of some of the Kuna in traditional garments. At times, it definitely felt like a tourist trap, but you can think of it as one way to help support the locals. I did get to meet the family of one of the workers at the resort while being led through the community. If you’re looking to see how the local Kuna live and you’re not afraid to say no to someone asking for money or to buy something from them, then the tour can be a cool experience. If you’re like me and once is enough, you can always pass on the tour the second time it is offered during your stay. Instead, you could have some quiet time reading a book while relaxing in a hammock.
There are a few other tours that rotate by season, weather, and it seems by whatever the tour boss wants to do that week. I highly recommend checking all of the tours out and giving them all a chance. If you like a tour and it comes up again during your stay, then do it again. Or you could consider doing something else like going snorkeling (bring your own equipment or use the rental equipment available at the shop on the island), swimming and splashing in the sea, or laying out on the island’s small beach to soak up some sun. You really can’t go wrong either way.
Your chariot to paradise is waiting.
Other considerations.
Here are some things you might find helpful to have with you during your island stay. I recommend always bringing sunscreen and bug spray with you on the tours. I also recommend bringing your camera with you to Yandup and out on the tours. The whole area is insanely beautiful. You’ll want pictures and videos for when you go home.
For those who don’t like to wear shoes, this is the place for you! I didn’t even wear my flip flops most of the time that I was on the island. As long as you are careful walking on the island at the resort, then you really don’t need any footwear until you go on one of the tours. You will want sandals while at the beach and need solid walking or hiking shoes for some of the tours.
For those with children, note that Yandup Island Resort is apparently quite popular with families. I met several families with young kids while staying on the island. If you’re an adventurous family with energetic kids wanting to explore the world, then I highly recommend giving the Yandup Island Lodge a chance. The island is small and safe. The huts have enough space for a small family, albeit without much privacy. Most of the families stayed for a couple nights. I think the resort offers families a great way to spend time together enjoying each other’s company and the beautiful outdoors of the San Blas area. The children get a very unique opportunity to experience a different culture and to meet people from all over the world at Yandup while having fun on vacation.
San Blas is calling!
Yandup Island Lodge is a really special place. Go there to unplug and get away from the daily grind. The resort is remote and rustic, so relax, slow down, enjoy the warm tropical breezes, the incredible scenery, and savor each moment in a such a serene wonderful place.
On-board Activities for First Timers
Remember, it’s your cruise. You can be as active as you want to be – or not, so do it your way. Just remember you don’t have to do something all the time. There are so many activities to choose from on board, it can be tempting to do too much. Try to stop and smell the sea from time to time.
Getting hooked on cruising early.
Once you have gone through the check-in process and boarded your ship, plan on wandering the decks to find what there is and where it is located. You should have gotten a basic deck plan during the check-in process, but if not find guest services. Guest services is usually located mid-ship somewhere central. That is most likely where you can find a deck plan and a listing of cruise on-board activities for your first day. Also, most ships these days have some type of interactive ship menu boards that you can use to help you find your way around.
The day you board the ship is what the cruise lines call Day 1. So if you are on a seven day cruise, then it is Day 1 of 7. So be prepared to dive right into your cruising experience. Don’t wait to look around until after you can get into your cabin or your suitcases arrive and are unpacked. Begin your cruise by looking around and finding places on board you might want to spend more time in or things you want to investigate.
Many experienced cruisers take a small bag on board with them that has their swimsuit, book, change of clothes, or whatever else that might help them get into cruising mode on Day 1. Sure you have to lug that bag around with you, but that is only until you can get into your cabin to leave it there. Of course, if you use one of the public restrooms or spa restrooms to change (yes, you can use many of the spa facilities on most ships even if you are not there for a treatment) into your swimsuit, then you can keep the bag with you on your pool lounge chair. Or if your idea of fun is to have a welcome aboard drink, that bag can be near your bar chair.
There’s nothing like that first cup of coffee onboard.
For my first moments on board, I like to find a cozy bar or the highest bar with a view to have a welcome – I’m cruising – drink. Then after that relaxing bit, I either go explore the ship or go to lunch. Keep in mind that most cruisers when they first come on the ship head straight for the buffet lunch spot so it’s usually pretty busy there. It’s why I recommend exploring the ship first, having a first I’m on vacation on a ship drink, or taking a swim before eating. After you have done that, usually the cabins are open and people start leaving the buffet to go get into their cabins. Keep in mind, the lunch buffet does not run out of food on the first day and your cabin will still be there when you are ready.
In your cabin, at check-in, or at guest services you will get a daily listing of shipboard activities, restaurants and bars open hours, evening shows, sail away time, and all kinds of other shopping or buy this or that offerings. Take a moment to run through what the ship is offering and see if anything interests you.
If you are sailing with children, check out the youth program services and register your children there. Some kids really like the youth places and programs and some don’t. If your child is registered, the child can use it if they want to or if you want them to try it.
Some activities that can be fun and are often offered the first day on board are: trivia contests (try it alone or see if you can do it with others to make a team); learn how to play casino games; watch a movie pool-side or in the ship’s theater; check out the shops on board as they usually are running specials and some free drinks; dancing by the pool or in one of the clubs; and piano bar or pub type entertainment. Evening entertainment usually includes a Captains Welcome with free champagne, a game show or two, karaoke, first evening welcome show, and later in the evening an adult comedy show.
Royal Caribbean’s Adventure of the Seas offers a sushi class!
As the cruise progresses, you will get a daily listing of things to do or see each evening that will tell you what is up for the following day. Take a highlighter with you on the cruise so you can mark the listing up by highlighting the things you might want to do. Remember, the ship offers a lot to do and tries to provide some types of activities for everyone every day. You can’t do it all and shouldn’t try, but you should try at least one thing new to you every day. Make it an adventure; after all, if you try something and don’t find it fun - leave and go do something else.
Check out the ship’s gym. Most ships have full service gyms with every type of machine you can think of available. Some ships have them located in places with a great view (think treadmill or elliptical use while looking out at the waves); however, some ships don’t provide the view, just the gym. The gym usually also has an exercise floor where some classes take place. Note, if you see an activity listed with a $ sign beside it, that means there is a charge for it. Try to avoid those and find something that you want to do, but does not cost money. Many classes in the ship’s gym are free, but some like yoga or spin can have a cost.
If an activity, other than in the gym or spa, has a charge to attend, that will be noted in the day’s listing ($). Of course, drinks will cost you as will specialty dining, your shore excursions, special cooking classes, or spa treatments. Otherwise, you should assume an activity is free. Another thing that is free on board is finding great places to walk or sit and view the sea. At least one upper deck will have a walking track (you may have to dodge around those getting sun on the loungers if you try the track later in the day) and some lower deck will have an enclosed (over your head) deck with open sides where you can feel you close to the sea, but out of the sun. Also, there are usually ping pong tables somewhere, shuffleboard areas (don’t laugh, it can actually be fun in the evening, especially after a drink or two), a basketball court, miniature golf course, and some ships even have a rock climbing wall, a grotto to explore, or an ice skating ring.
Most ships will have at least one pool, but most often there will be two or more along with a children’s water play area. Try each one out and see which one you like the most. Use it and enjoy it. There is usually at least one pool open late or all night along with a hot tub to enjoy at all hours.
Cruising can make anyone into a foodie.
Remember, it’s your cruise. You can be as active as you want to be – or not, so do it your way. Just remember you don’t have to do something all the time. There are so many activities to choose from on board, it can be tempting to do too much. Try to stop and smell the sea from time to time.
Thoughts on Shore Excursions For First Time Cruisers
Think about your time – it’s valuable. Think carefully about how long you want to be on a shore excursion before you book it.
Shore Excursions – Or Leaving Your Ship And Exploring Ashore
Use your cruise to explore new interests or places.
Cruises these days go so many places around the world. So use your cruise as one way to see different places and help you decide which ones you would like to go back to and spend more time visiting there. If you visit one island in the Caribbean or in Hawaii that seems like a place to linger, then you can plan to make a longer land based vacation there later. If you visit a place that doesn’t appeal to you, cross that one off your vacations wanted list and move on.
You can also use your cruise to investigate an interest or sport you already have or think you’d find interesting. For example, like to golf? Cruises give you a chance to golf at varied types of courses almost anywhere (you can rent clubs and shoes at most courses or you can take your own onboard). If you like to cook, cruising can give you a chance to try different cuisines and cooking classes around the world (Jamaica, think jerk chicken or in Spain, making and sampling many kinds of tapas). Also, don’t forget cruises often offer varied types of cooking classes, including making sushi, right onboard the ship.
Sometimes an organized shore excursion is the only way to see a sight within the set number of hours your ship is in port. Sometimes an organized shore excursion is necessary to visit a place or have a particular experience because it is not available unless booked that way. That can be the case in exotic far-away places and even in America or Canada. Be sure to factor that into your considerations when thinking about what to do and see on shore.
Check out shore excursions from private vendors at your cruise’s port stops in addition to the cruise line’s offerings.
Considerations to think about the regarding the cruise line’s own shore excursions. When it comes to going ashore to sightsee, eat, drink, or play most cruise lines arrange for a variety of shore excursion offerings you can take. While still at home, you can usually view these offerings online and purchase your tickets online. That means you know what you will do at any given stop before you leave home. If you can, that is probably the best way to book a ship’s shore excursion as you know you are on it before you leave home. The shore excursions offered by the cruise lines are offered based on what they know most people want to do at a particular destination. Such shore excursions are usually well organized and vetted for guest safety.
If you are interested in going ashore somewhere where you don’t feel comfortable going alone or somewhere you don’t speak the language, then it can be a good idea to book your shore excursion through the ship. Remember you can book it online in advance or once on board through the shore excursion desk. For example, if you are on a cruise to Mexico and getting to your selected Mayan ruin destination will take more than an hour going just one way, then consider booking that excursion through the cruise line. If something happens to delay your excursion from getting back to the ship before sail away time, the ship will wait for you to return. If you booked that excursion through a non-ship vendor, you might get back to find you missed your ship. That can and does happen. The ship cannot wait past a certain time, and if you are not onboard by then you have missed it. I once got back from a shore excursion late enough to be past the all onboard time, but thankfully not past the deadline must sail away time. Remember you don’t want to be one of those pier runners trying frantically to get down the pier before the ship leaves.
All that being said, you still can have a great shore excursion booking through an independent vendor or by going out on your own to explore. An independent vendor can offer a shore excursion with fewer people on it usually at a lower price than the cruise line’s shore excursions. Also, an independent vendor often can tailor your shore excursion to what you want to see or alter the tour stops to make sure guests have the time to see what interests them the most.
Most independent excursion vendors are keenly aware of when your ship leaves port. They work hard to be sure you get to sightsee what is promised and get you back in time. You can probably safely use an independent tour vendor for excursions that are about sightseeing around a town, for a food or drinks tour, or for activities such as diving or snorkeling. If you are in Caribbean and want to go snorkeling, then you should consider an independent vendor. Depending on the port, there should be many companies to choose from. Check them out online before you book. For example, Aristocat Charters in the British Virgin Islands is one vendor that offers several great snorkeling and beach visits to choose among. Try to get reviews and feedback from people who have toured with an independent vendor. There are many sources for looking them up, but you can try such sites like the Cruise Critic message boards, Facebook, Trip Advisor, Expedia, and other travel websites.
Think about your time – it’s valuable. Think carefully about how long you want to be on a shore excursion before you book it.
Shore excursions, whether through the ship or an independent vendor, are offered in different time lengths. How long you will want to be on a trip depends on where you want to go, what you want to see, and how long you can tolerate the traveling required. When you want to go somewhere that is further away from the port remember to consider the travel time necessary to get there and back along with what kind of travel it will take to get there. Consider whether you really want to book any shore excursion that lasts longer than three to four hours. If the excursion turns out not to be what you thought it was or you get sick, most people can get through that amount of time before they return to the ship. If you book a shore excursion for six to eight hours or more, than you are likely stuck with it until it is over.
Make your own shore excursion. Exploring on your own can be fun, rewarding, and cost less than an organized shore excursion.
Since you are going on a cruise you know when you book what ports your ship will stop in (weather and sea conditions can alter stops, but that is rare) . You can just get off the ship, pick a taxi vendor, and wing it by going where he or she suggests or takes you to. You can just get off the ship, make your way into town, and explore it on foot. That way you can stop at what catches your eye or what you think will be an interesting place to investigate. However, if you can bring yourself to plan ahead some you are more likely to have rewarding and interesting experience. First, make sure you know what could be a dangerous part of the town or country. Looking that up online should give you an idea of where not to go. You can generally find such information on travel websites, the U.S. Department of State website, or in crime reports or warnings posted by localities and local law enforcement. Once you are armed with such information, then you can start looking at what kind of places you do want to see. Check local travel, welcome, or business websites to see what are local highlights. Once you know what is there to explore, think about what you really would like to see or do. Note a place’s open hours, admission charges, and locations. Your time in a port is limited, so use it wisely.
Get yourself an old fashioned map of your port and look at it so you can plot out the best routes between various places. Note any hills, rivers, or other impediments between two places so you can plan how to cross or conquer that hill. Once you know that kind of information you know what you can expect to see and about how long it will take you to get there, experience it, and move on. Use your phone’s map to help you only if you have it set for overseas travel without excessive use charges or have pre-arranged the charges for outside the U.S. use before you left the U.S. Otherwise, the cost of using your Google Maps or other mapping service can result in huge charges.
Once you are on your way, remember you are exploring. Enjoy yourself, stop and smell the roses or take in the view. Sample at the chocolate factory, check out that bakery, or hike up that hill to see what is on the other side. If you come across something that interests you and that you did not plan to do, enjoy it and adapt your plan as needed. Remember, the only thing you have to do is get back to the ship by the all onboard time!
Dining For First Time Cruisers
Use the main dining room to save money and eat well. You don’t have to pay for the specialty dining restaurants to eat well.
Main Dining Room
Use the main dining room to save money and eat well. You don’t have to pay for the specialty dining restaurants to eat well.
These days many cruisers have stopped using the main dining room for dinner. They have been lured by the promise of better or different food at upscale charging dining places on the ship. While the food in those places can sometimes be better, usually it is not that much better as to be worth an extra $30 to $50 dollars per person per meal.
Note, though that some ships do not even offer a main dining room; these are usually on some of the newer ships. Such ships often offer instead several smaller venues that people can try on different nights. Since many people like to change it up on a cruise and they really don’t want to stop to change for dinner any more, cruise lines are offering more casual eateries. Royal Caribbean even has a Johnny Rockets and a Sorrento’s pizzeria on many of their ships. But, if you like eating at a set time where you know where you will sit and be served by servers who know what you like, then nothing beats the main dining room.
There are usually two traditional seating times in a ship’s main dining room. Often the early dining time is at 5:30 or 6:00, while the late dining time is at 8:00 or 8:30 PM. Eating early or late is definitely a personal preference. While you can change your usual time to eat because you are on a cruise, I think most people like to eat around the time they usually do.
Early dining time means, of course, that you eat earlier. That’s especially good for those who like that, for older folks, and for younger children. The downside to it means you might have to stop what you are doing mid to late afternoon, go get cleaned up (think leaving the pool, taking a shower, and getting nicely dressed) so you can be in the dining room by 5:30 or 6:00 PM. The upside is you will finish your dinner usually by about 7:30 and are ready to do something different for the evening – to participate in activities, listen to the piano player in the bar, or go see some entertainment shows.
Late dining time means you can stretch your afternoon activities out and have a few drinks before dinner. You can even have a late afternoon snack to tide you over until dinner time. Eating at the late dining time means you probably will have the opportunity to see an entertainment show earlier in the evening before dinner, spend time at the pub, or finish watching the sports game all before you go to eat. Late dining usually lasts about one and ½ to two hours for your meal. Afterwards, you can then pick your late night evening entertainment choices such as karaoke, comedians, or silly fun game shows.
Keep in mind, the main dining room is a great place to meet new people. The dining room offers table tops of varied sizes. To meet more people be sure to request a six, eight, or ten top table preferences when you book your cruise.
If you want to have a smaller table or a table for only two, you’ll have better luck achieving that by choosing a free style or my time dining experience in the main dining room. Doing so means you still eat in the main dining room, but can do so at the time you choose, not the set two traditional dining times the cruise line offers. This type of main dining room experience means you may not get the same servers each meal time, but you can choose a time you find comfortable for eating. Most often you can reserve a time ahead, but it usually works fine to keep it flexible and walk up to the dining room when it is open and you want to eat. You’ll be put on a list to get the first available table of the size and location you want just you would at a restaurant in your hometown. Rest assured, the main dining food offered is the same, it just happens at the time you want, not at the pre-set dining two times.
The main dining room experience means you will have a server seat you, put your napkin on your lap, bring your drinks, have a menu of choices each evening, and someone will take your order.
Always remember when it comes to cruise dining - if you like it, you can order more. If you want two appetizers, main courses, or deserts or all of those, order them! Many people do and some eat two or three appetizers rather than eating the main course. If you want ice cream and it is not on the menu, ask for it. You will likely receive it. Try two different deserts. If you don’t like something, ask for something else! Your server will take care of it. They want you to be happy and have something you like.
Main Dining Room on Royal Caribbean’s Adventure of the Seas
Pro Tip: Use the main dining room at lunch or for breakfast to avoid the crowds. Other dining options will see a surge of people during these times.
Who doesn’t like be served your meal? It’s easier than going to the buffet, but be aware there are fewer menu items to choose from.
On many cruise lines during at sea days, the main dining room is open for breakfast and lunch. The dining room may seat you at a table as you come in with others or they may seat your party at separate tables. That depends on the cruise line or even the ship. The dining room may also provide a separate area for repeat cruisers. For breakfast and lunch the menu can vary, but often there will be both a menu of choices along with a short buffet line in the dining room. You can have what you want within their choices, but there still is no charge. However, remember that eating in the dining room at breakfast or lunch does take more time than eating at that other main ship eatery, the casual buffet. The plus to eating in the main dining room for breakfast and lunch is there is less noise or confusion and someone delivers what you order to your table.
ProTip: Drink water or coffee or tea.
You’ll have enough food; you won’t miss the soft drink or alcohol. Drinks usually included with the meal are water, coffee, tea, and milk. If you want a soft drink, beer, wine, or mixed drink, that will have a cost.
2. Casual Buffet.
Pro Tip: Use the casual buffet on the ship. You can eat there from a large smorgasbord of choices at no additional cost.
The varieties of choices at the buffet are simply amazing – there is literally something for everyone. When you go to the buffet the first time, be sure to walk through the whole place. Often there is more than one serving area and multiple seating areas. Many people never make it all the way to the back so there can be plentiful seating back there. Some ships even have an open balcony eating area in the back or side of the buffet. Check it out first and then select your food and seating.
For lunch, you will usually find kid and fan friendly food like hot dogs and hamburgers with all the fixings, tacos, panini, one to two soups of the day, several different types of breads, sandwich makings, and hot dishes like roast beef, stews, chicken, and varied cultural food specialties of the day.
For lunch, dinner, and at an afternoon snack time, take a look at the many desserts available at the buffet. The variety offered usually runs from fresh fruit and cheeses to cookies, cakes, pies, etc. Note, there are sugar free options available. Day to day the ships change the desserts offered, so look them all over and make your choices.
If you need gluten free food, and don’t see any then ask. Usually the cruise lines offer gluten free choices at each meal and they are glad to assist in making sure what you eat is gluten free.
Drinks such as tea, coffee, lemonade, flavored waters, and water are free. Milk, both low-fat, whole, and chocolate are free. Also, there is usually almond, soy, lactose free milk available too. However, just like in the dining room sodas, beer, wine, and mixed drinks have a cost.
For breakfast, there is any number of ways that eggs, bacon, and toasts are served. You can get an omelet made to order. Also available are: cereals, fresh fruits, grits, oatmeal, croissants, donuts, and more. If you don’t see what you want – and you will – ask a server to help you find what you are looking for.
Pro Tip: Don’t forget to try the buffet for dinner.
The buffet at dinner is usually less crowded than earlier in the day. The dinner buffet often offers its own variety of main dish choices, sometime also includes what is being served in the main dining room, and a server will still get you your drinks and help as needed during your meal. Best of all, you can eat when you want during the dinner buffet hours and you can dress casually.
The biggest downside to the buffet at breakfast and lunch times is it can get crowded and noisy. So many people all looking at food and crossing paths with each other can lead to confusion and congestion. Just remember, there is plenty of food. They will not run out; you will get what you want so be sure to take it easy and enjoy the variety.
3. Pizza, Pizza, Pizza.
Most ships have free pizza available somewhere on the ship at any hour. Your job is to just to look for it and then enjoy it. Some cruise lines serve better pizza than others, but it is almost always free. When you need something to cut the alcohol and satisfy your food craving at 3 AM, find the pizza!
4. Snacks.
Pro Tip: Many types of snacks are available onboard. There will be places from a small café to a pub offering light meal items or snacks to satisfy your cravings. Check for places on your ship that are not the main dining rooms, buffets, or specialty dining places.
Ships often have snack places or smaller cafes somewhere on the ship. Some ships have more than one or two of these places. They will offer a more limited choice of food than the buffet, but what they do have is usually tasty. And it’s free! These places may only be open at lunchtime or for afternoon snacks, but there is usually one such place that is open 24/7 or almost round the clock. Go get a wrap, a sandwich, a salad, a cookie, yogurt, or a smoothie. You have worked up an appetite lying in the sun, so you need that cookie or two!
5. Ice Cream and Specialty Coffees.
Pro Tip: Find the soft serve free ice cream on the ship. It’s free.
The soft serve ice cream is often on the pool deck somewhere. Follow the kids and you’ll find it. The ice cream is really a custard type, but it can satisfy that ice cream urge. Avoid the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream and the Starbucks type coffees – those have a cost and that will add up quickly.
6. Room Service.
Pro Tip: Know what your ship provides for free through room service and skip the rest.
Some cruise lines provide free room service, some charge for it. Some charge for certain things obtained through room service and not others. Don’t forget, that even if the room service is free you still need to tip the delivery server.
7. Alcohol.
Pro Tip: It Is Not Free. Stay away from alcohol if you are on a tight budget.
Charging for alcohol is how cruise lines make mucho money. That being said, if you want a drink, you are on vacation. Just remember to watch the cost as it adds up quickly. To have an alcoholic drink, but at a lower cost: look for the drink of the day, don’t get the drink in the fancy glass you have to pay for, and check out that bucket of beer offered on the pool deck. Some venues on the ship will offer happy hour specials or sports events specials so consider those as a way to imbibe.
If you plan to drink a lot, then consider buying a drinks card or package if your cruise line offers one. When considering a drinks package, check out what alcohol and brands are covered, the cost of it versus buying one to two drinks a day, and where on the ship you can use it. If you plan to drink a lot on your cruise, it is usually cheaper to buy the drinks card or package, than to pay for single drinks. If you don’t drink much, then be aware that purchasing a drink package means you probably would need to drink 5 to 6 mixed drinks every day just to break even on the cost.
Selecting A Cruise For First Timers
Supply and demand rules cruising, just like any other trip. Where you want to go and when influences cruise prices. When much of the US is shivering from winter cold, visions of a warm Caribbean sun and blue water tempt many to travel. So prices tend to go up then. You’ll see a similar effect on the prices of cruises when schools let out for summer vacation and when most spring breaks occur. Consider avoiding those times if possible.
Top Eight Things to Consider When Booking a Cruise
Sunset over the Caribbean
Cruising can be fun, but a cruise can have a costly learning curve. Here are my eight things to consider when going on your first cruise.
1. Location, location, location. When booking a cruise keep in mind that old real estate truism.
Supply and demand rules cruising, just like any other trip. Where you want to go and when influences cruise prices. When much of the US is shivering from winter cold, visions of a warm Caribbean sun and blue water tempt many to travel. So prices tend to go up then. You’ll see a similar effect on the prices of cruises when schools let out for summer vacation and when most spring breaks occur. Consider avoiding those times if possible.
You can save some money by traveling during the spring or fall months. I recommend checking out the average temperature and rainfall where and when you are considering traveling. Once you have picked a timeframe and location, then it’s time to move into checking out where the cruise lines are sending their ships at those times. Look at the itineraries available and their prices.
For places like Alaska, you do need to keep in mind that if you want to have the best weather then the crowds and higher prices are unavoidable. It’s simply a matter of spending wisely to get the experience you want to have.
Tourists going ashore at Sint Maarten
2. Know what you want to do.
Seriously consider what you want from your cruise. Are you someone who wants to spend time onboard relaxing, soaking up some sun, and enjoying the ship? Are you someone who likes variety and wants to visit many places?
If you are a person who like to lounge around, needs to recuperate from working, enjoys sampling varied onboard activities (such as sushi classes, entertainment shows to belly flop contests, and play trivia), or lounging by the pool, then choose a cruise with more at sea days.
If you are easily bored, like to be on the move, like exploring new places, like a variety of activity choices, or shopping, then choose a cruise with many ports to visit.
3. Find the company that fits you.
Once you know about where you want to go and when along with what you would most enjoy, consider what cruise line and which ship to choose.
I always recommend a first time cruiser stick with the larger lines such as Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Norwegian, or Princess. They know how to package an experience that meets the needs of most people across all ages. They offer popular destinations and a good variety of cruise lengths consisting of both at sea and in port days.
These cruise lines also offer a good variety of ships to choose among. They go to many different places with each offering a fun variety of onboard entertainment.
If you think you’d like a really big ship with plenty to do on board, Royal Caribbean offers the largest cruise ships afloat. Their really big ships can carry as many as 6000 of your closest new best friends, but the ships are designed to spread out the crowds between activities, pools, and different eateries.
Carnival offers fun slides and play areas. Norwegian says dress casual and enjoy multiple choices every day for dining.
For some of the best prices, consider the medium sized ships carrying around 3000 to 4000 passengers. These size ships are a nice mix between size and amenities. Big enough to offer lots of onboard activities and still small enough to fit into many different ports.
Some of the smaller ships, carrying 2500 guests or less, are known for their beautiful sea views, wonderful service, and the convenience they offer of sailing out of close to home ports such as Galveston, Texas or Baltimore, Maryland. Still remember that some smaller ships can be quite expensive since they carry fewer passengers.
Cruise ships docked at St. Kitts
4. Select your itinerary and your ship.
Once you know what you would most like to do, then it’s time to consider an actual itinerary and your ship. Knowing what you would most like to see or do helps you decide which line and ship to pick.
For Alaska, remember you will want to be able to see the outside easily and be outside often. You want a ship with lots of windows and ample deck spaces for everyone to use while viewing the scenery and wildlife. You want to go mid-June through the middle of August.
If you want to go swimming and sailing, then the Caribbean has many different beautiful beaches to choose from. You can go most any month, but during the winter months it is usually expensive since everyone wants a winter break. Early fall is hurricane season, but that can mean price drops. For time on a beach at a good price, consider a stop at a cruise line’s own private island. Such a stop offers the beach experience with little to no extra cost as long as all you want is a beach and some sun. Lunch on the island is usually included, but you can always return to your ship to eat.
If you want to explore North America, Europe, or elsewhere, cruises offer journeys where you can explore without having to pack, travel, and unpack at each stop. Consider your cruise an opportunity to sample places.
5. Booking Process Decisions.
To book a cruise you can book directly with the cruise line or you can go through a travel agent. My recommendation is use a travel agent. There are many that specialize in cruises. Go with a local agency (get your friend’s recommendations and the agent’s credentials first) or go through an online travel agency.
There are many online travel agencies that specialize in cruising so check them out. Most big warehouse stores offer travel services online. Even if you don’t book through them, some online cruise travel agencies have good websites providing easy to view ship itineraries and pricing. These can often be easier to use when looking for what ship is going where and when, than the cruise companies’ own websites.
A balcony room on Royal Caribbean’s Adventure of the Seas
6. Cabins Types.
One thing to consider before actually booking is what kind of cabin you want on your cruise. The cabin you pick greatly impacts your cruise cost.
Four basic cabin types are: 1 - inside (no outside window or view); 2 - outside view (there’s a window, small to large depending on the ship and deck); 3 - balcony (from small with two chairs to larger) and a junior suite (just a larger floor or balcony space than a typical balcony cabin); and 4 - higher end suites (these cost the big bucks – only you can decide if you need the space, services, and perks a suite can provide).
All of these cabins come with their own positive and negative aspects. Inside cabins are less expensive, but small. The balconies and suites have more room, but cost more.
So you’ll pay more for space and any view. You’ll also often pay more for a higher deck and to be in the ship’s middle as well. It all comes down to how much you want to pay versus your cabin’s location.
Sunrise over the Caribbean
7. Three C’s – Cabin Costs Considerations.
Picking the right cabin, its size, location, and cost, is a very personal matter. If you want to go as cheaply as possible, then book an inside cabin on the lowest public cabin deck. It will be small, not have any window (some Royal Caribbean inside cabins do offer a virtual outside view on a wall of the cabin), and very dark when the lights are turned off.
Even the cheapest cabin puts you on the ship with full access to facilities and activities that everyone can enjoy. It will have a room steward to clean it (not you - you’re on vacation remember), a private bathroom, a comfortable bed, TV, and many varied spaces to store your stuff. You can travel on a ship quite comfortably in an inside cabin if you are not claustrophobic.
If you do need that outside view, then consider booking an outside window (ocean view) cabin. Such cabins often have a small window, a larger (usually round) window, or even on some ships a floor to ceiling window. They cost more, but do offer a chance to see what is happening outside your cabin.
Ocean view window cabins are often on decks two or three, but can be higher depending on ship design. Some of these cabins are located at the front of the ship below the bridge (ship steering area). Be aware you may experience more ship motion there than in other ship locations. If you do tend to motion sickness, it is best to go with a lower deck cabin in the middle of the ship since motion is usually felt less there.
Many people like to book a balcony cabin. That’s why you see so many of the newer ships built with multiple decks of balconies. A balcony cabin allows you to open a door and step out onto your own private outside space.
A balcony cabin can significantly add to your cruise cost so consider carefully if you think you will use it enough. A balcony can be a great place to get away from the crowds and have that drink, snack, or read mid-afternoon in private. Remember that if you travel at cooler times, you may not be able to get much use of the balcony. That view may still be worth it to you, only you can decide that. If you are traveling south along the coast from New York or Boston during late fall, winter, or early spring it will be a day or two before it is warm enough to really enjoy using the balcony.
A suite usually costs double to triple the cost of an outside or balcony room. It also comes with more space, a bigger balcony and some perks like special pool or shows seating areas, a suite guest club lounge, and/or special restaurants just for suite guests.
If extra space is needed, then check out the price of a suite against the price of two or more cabins. Sometimes a junior suite or above size suite can be more affordable for a family instead of paying for more cabins.
Before leaving the topic of cabins, it is worth mentioning that some cruise lines are offering some interesting alternative options these days: solo cabins, some even with a small balcony, for solo travelers; and family cabins that have separate bunk bed areas for children.
If you are traveling as a solo, then check on the solo cabin offerings as they mean you won’t have to pay a single supplement price to occupy a double occupancy cabin (the price standard for cruise cabins).
If you are traveling with children, consider booking two adjacent cabins with a connecting door. That gives a family two bathrooms and some privacy when the connecting doors are closed. Connecting cabins may be found in inside, outside, and balcony cabins. Some families even like to have an inside cabin for the kids across the hall from a balcony cabin as this still provides two bathrooms, some privacy, and a balcony to share at times.
A cruise ship departing Fort Lauderdale’s port
8. Book That Cruise!
Now that you know where you want to go, when you want to go, what kind of cabin you want, and the amount of time you have to vacation, it is time to book that cruise.
Book through your travel agent as the agent can help you find the best deal for your needs. The travel agent is likely to offer you an incentive as a “reward” for using the agent. Often it is some OBC (onboard credit – money the travel agent provides so you can purchase things or services onboard). It is a nice perk and is another reason to use a travel agent to book. If you get OBC, either from the cruise line and/or from your travel agent use it up before leaving the ship. It’s not hard to do as there are so many ways to spend it once on board. If the travel agent you use does not mention any type of perk or reward for booking through them, then ask about it.
Two other reasons for using a travel agent for cruise bookings: one, they know about cruise ships and itineraries and want to share that knowledge to your benefit; and two, they can help you when you need to change something or something goes wrong.
Usually my recommendation when traveling is to research it yourself and explore your own bookings, but cruising is different. You have to book a cruise trip through either the cruise line direct or through a travel agent. The cruise line is interested in getting your booking, but not necessarily in what is best for you. The travel agent wants to help you get the best cruise you can afford and want. They work for you to have the best cruise possible.
One last thing to consider about your cruise - trip insurance. How boring and not necessary you say? What happens if you break your leg outside the US and have to get treatment? Often your medical insurance will not cover such expenses. That means if you break your leg or worse happens, any medical expenses must be paid in full on the spot. Trip insurance is cheap and can help cover such needs if an emergency happens.