North Carolina's Outer Banks Part 2
The Southern Outer Banks Beaches
On a lazy summer afternoon clouds roll in over the Outer Banks.
Try the Southern Outer Banks Beaches for Serenity and Beautiful Scenery
To reach the southern Outer Banks beaches from the northern beaches, head south from Nags Head on NC Route 12S and stay on it for awhile. You are now going to the southern islands of the Outer Banks. To reach the southern Outer Banks from the west (the mainland), head east on US 64 over the bridges until you reach Nags Head, then turn south onto 12S. A difference you’ll immediately notice from the northern Outer Banks is how many fewer people are going south with you. So go south on 12S if what you really want to find in the Outer Banks is a sense of peacefulness, being close to nature, and fewer crowds. Go south if you put a high priority on just enjoying the beach the outdoors during your time in the Outer Banks. Go south all the way to Ocracoke Island if you have the time and want to experience the best, in my opinion, of the southern Outer Banks.
Spotted one morning soaring over the Outer Banks.
Bodie Island
After leaving Nags Head, one of the first places you’ll see on 12S is the Bodie Island Lighthouse where you can stop and climb up to the top. In 2019 the lighthouse opens for climbing on April 19th and it stays open through the spring, summer, and fall seasons until October 14th. There are over 200 steps which is supposed to be the equivalent of climbing up a ten story building. Tickets are sold (free tickets on April 19th) for those interested in climbing to the top starting at 9 AM through 4:30 PM. Check out www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm for up to date information. On a clear day, the view from the Bodie Island Lighthouse gives a climber an extensive view of the Outer Banks islands stretching way to the north and to the south. On the lighthouse grounds there is also a marsh boardwalk ending in an elevated covered look-out over the freshwater marsh. Take the boardwalk for the good opportunities it offers for wildlife photos. Bird watchers are known to set up their spotting scopes there for viewing the many birds visiting here or calling the lighthouse area home. The Bodie (pronounced body) Island Lighthouse is a still functioning lighthouse with its light beams switching on when it gets dark. This lighthouse is painted in a distinctive pattern of alternating horizontal white and black stripes.
Hatteras National Seashore
As you continue south after the Bodie Island Lighthouse, you are in the Hatteras National Seashore. In the ‘Shore there are miles of wide beaches with relativity few visitors compared to the northern Outer Bank beaches. As you drive on 12S every so often you will see public parking lots with some that offer facilities. The Hatteras National Seashore is part of the U.S. National Park Service as are the Bodie Island Lighthouse, the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, and the Ocracoke Island Lighthouse. The ‘Shore offers those who come to the park three different visitor centers with each one located on a different island, RV and tent camping sites, and many ranger led programs, all in addition to the miles of beautiful unspoiled public use beaches. There are three short hiking trails located inside the National Seashore: the Buxton Woods Trail, a ¾ mile loop which takes you to some high areas of Hatteras Island; the Open Ponds Trail, a nine mile round trip look at the variety of habitats on Hatteras Island; and the Hammock Hills Trail on Ocracoke Island, a ¾ mile loop through scrub, maritime forest, and salt marsh with a view of the Pamlico Sound. There are four National Park camping sites: Oregon Inlet Campground on Bodie Island; Cape Point Campground and Frisco Campground on Hatteras Island; and Ocracoke Campground on Ocracoke Island. If at all possible, I recommend that you reserve ahead to pick your spot at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm Due to its popularity and the overall limited camping spaces on Ocracoke Island, if you want to stay at the Ocracoke Campground you really should reserve ahead to be sure you get a campsite.
Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, and Avon
Traveling south on 12S you pass through these several small villages - Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, and Avon until you reach Buxton. Each of these smaller villages offer a variety of rental accommodations for folks. While these villages are located on the narrow parts of Hatteras Island, their beaches are still wide enough to allow you to spread out, walk a fair distance, and get away from any crowds. These are towns which offer lots of space between you and others. Rodanthe is home to the Chicamacomicao Life-Saving Station, one of the original 16 life-saving stations that used to exist on the Outer Banks for the purpose of saving sailors and their shipwrecks. The Life-Saving Station is now a museum worth a stop for an hour or two. Rodanthe is also well known for its surfing location at the S-Curves. The S-Curves are located just north of the village where 12S used to twist and turn. You’ll know if the surfs up when you drive by on 12S and the road is packed with cars alongside it. You’ll also see at that time, some folks with their cameras up on the dunes trying to get good shots of the surfers and waves.
The village of Avon is known for its fishing and the Avon Fishing Pier is known as a place to catch a giant red drum right off the pier.
A view out over the sound.
Buxton
Buxton is a quiet small town on the the widest part of Hatteras Island. It offers a very popular fishing spot off Cape Point and is known for offering great opportunities for surfing, kiteboarding and windsurfing. Buxton has a public beach at the Hatteras Lighthouse that has life guards during summer days. Be aware that the ocean here can be rough so having a lifeguard around can give people some peace of mind. Buxton is a small place, but offers a good variety of places to stay. It has both oceanfront and inland motels, campgrounds (bring bug spray), two bed and breakfasts, and homes or condo to rent. Buxton also offers some good hiking through the 1,007 acre Buxton Woods Reserve that borders the Hatteras National Seashore. Before you hike, use your bug spray. Buxton Woods offers hikes through shrub thickets containing live oak and red cedar, ridges with beautiful views, and the opportunity to see freshwater marshes up close. Buxton Woods Reserve is a resting place for migrating birds with more than 350 species of birds sighted, including both bald eagles and peregrine falcons. Access the Reserve’s hiking trails and parking lots by taking Water Association Road off of 12S. Don’t use the Old Doctor’s Road which is unpaved and rough unless you have a 4x4 vehicle.
The National Park Service’s Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is located in Buxton and offers a workout with an incredible view for those willing to climb the 257 steps. Going up those 257 steps is the equivalent of climbing up a 12 story building. Ticket sales to climb the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse begin at 9 AM with the last ticket sales at 4:25 PM. Go early to get your ticket as this lighthouse is a popular stop. Climbs run about every 10 minutes and are limited to 30 visitors per climb time. Ever wanted to climb a lighthouse after dark? You can do it this year on the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse Full Moon Tours on June 17th, July 16th, August 15th, and September 14th. Each of those evenings offer two climb times, but you must reserve your ticket ahead of time. More information on these moonlight climbs can be found at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm You can see the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse from far away as it is painted black and white in spiral stripes. That and its height makes it easily catch the eye. At the base of the lighthouse is a visitor center for the National Seashore, Museum of the Sea, and small gift shop.
The old stone jetties where the Hatteras Lighthouse was originally located before it was moved further inland in 1999, just north of Cape Point, is a surfing hot spot of the southern Outer Banks. I’m told that its popularity with surfers is due to the combination of good waves and consistent conditions. Go early and check this spot out if you are interested in taking shots of surfers working their skills against the waves.
South of Buxton there is the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum at 59200 Museum Drive, Hatteras. It is one of the North Carolina Maritime Museums and offers exhibits about the Carolina coast, shipwrecks, and some interesting programs. Check it out- https://graveyardoftheatlantic.com/about/
Frisco
Next up on 12S is the small village of Frisco. Frisco is relatively isolated and the beach can be narrow, but it a good spot for those who want to really get away from it all.
Some days it’s just rough out there.
Hatteras Village
Hatteras Village is another small town on 12S located on the southern tip of Hatteras Island. Hatteras Village is really all about fishing. It proudly says it is the “blue marlin capital of the world.” Charter fishing is big here as the village is located just 15 miles off the Gulf Stream. Many people enjoy surf fishing on the shore here, but there is actually more than fishing to do around here. The beach is known for its large waves courtesy of the Gulf Stream meeting the cold water Labrador Current. The Pamlico Sound opposite the beach side offers visitors activities such as swimming, canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfing. Hatteras is a small village, but does offer many rental homes.
Wild ponies having a munch during a sunny afternoon.
Ocracoke Island
If you have never been to Ocracoke Island at the far southern tip of the Outer Banks, I recommend you try to go there. This is definitely a place to get away from it all. Ocracoke Island is located about 18 miles off the North Carolina mainland and towards the end of NC’s Route 12. To get to the island, drive south on 12 until you get to the ferry landing. You then take the free North Carolina state operated ferry with your car over to Ocracoke Island from the southern end of Hatteras Island. It takes about an hour on the ferry to get there. Of course, in the summer expect to wait some time to get your turn on the ferry. Just pull up in line and settle in to wait your turn. Remember it is ok to wait your turn as doing so will make you slow down and get into an island frame of mind. If you are going to Ocracoke Island from points west on the mainland, there are two other ferries to bring you over, but these take longer, usually require reservations, and have a fee to use them. However, that can be the way to go if you want to avoid the long drive south down Hatteras Island.
Once you reach Ocracoke Island, you drive further south until you reach where you want to stay on the island, either in Ocracoke Village or somewhere else. See the Hatteras National Seashore https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm for information about the NPS run campground. Many who come for a day visit or to stay longer, rent a golf cart to get around the island or use a bike to get everywhere. Ocracoke Island is a great place to park your car somewhere, slow down, relax, and enjoy the ocean breeze. The small village of Ocracoke is a quaint old fishing village with small streets to explore and enjoy. There are some good restaurants and unique shops in the village. Ocracoke, like Corolla much further north on the Outer Banks, has a small herd of wild ponies roaming the island. It also has the smallest lighthouse in the Outer Banks. The lighthouse is 65 feet tall and is North Carolina’s oldest lighthouse in operation, but it is not open for climbing. For those who like a refreshing adult cold beverage, be aware that beer is allowed on the beach, however, wine and liquor are not. Also, not allowed on the beaches is any form of glass. Ocracoke Island has about 14 miles of beaches, most of which offer lots of room to enjoy without being crowded. Unlike the northern Outer Bank beaches, Ocracoke Island is famous for shelling - walking the beach to find shells such as whelks, olive and moon shells. Best of all, the island offers many different types of places to stay at different price points including homes, cottages, hotels, campgrounds, and B & Bs. However, remember Ocracoke is remote and small so it is best to book your place to stay well ahead of your visit.