This is where I share stories, lessons, and advice from my travels around the world.
Christmas in Paris
If you could go anywhere in the world for Christmas, where would you go? Consider giving Paris a shot. Having spent the winter holiday there, I can honestly say if you are looking for a truly wonderful place to experience Christmas outside of your own hometown, consider Paris. Experiencing French culture and traditions of the Christmas season in Paris is a true delight.
Christmas In Paris
Notre Dame was beautifully decorated for Christmas.
If you could go anywhere in the world for Christmas, where would you go? Consider giving Paris a shot. Having spent the winter holiday there, I can honestly say if you are looking for a truly wonderful place to experience Christmas outside of your own hometown, consider Paris. Experiencing French culture and traditions of the Christmas season in Paris is a true delight. There is still something to the sight of Notre Dame, even after the fire, with a lighted Christmas tree in front of it that inspires me to give thanks for everything and enjoy the holiday. The city somehow gives off an old world charm and celebrates its own traditions for the holiday while seamlessly incorporating modern culture.
Once you make your decision to go to Paris and arrange for your flights, then you have to decide where to stay. This decision is an important one since it influences what you are able to see and do during your visit. Remember, it is likely to be chilly in Paris (it usually is about 37°F to 46°F on average) during the holidays so you want to be sure you find a place that fits your budget, is comfortable, and close enough to most of what you want to see. That way when the weather is fine, you can go outdoors and explore around. When the weather is not so great, you can either get quickly to your destination or, if need be, get to your selected transportation.
Now that is my kind of welcome package!
Choosing Your Parisian Home
As you consider the choices of what area of Paris to make your temporary home away from home and the choice of accommodation type, consider your finances. Balance what you have to spend with what you want to experience. Remember that you have been saving probably for some time to be on this special vacation. It’s okay to spend that money on some priceless experiences. As long as you’re reasonably sure that you know how you want to spend your money, then you won’t regret it later. Take transportation needs into this consideration. Often it is not a good decision to pay less by staying further out from the center of historic Paris in one of the outer arrondissements. If you do, then you must factor in the cost of both your travel time and transportation cost to get to the sights you want to see. People often forget about the time lost traveling. That is time you could spend sitting at a cafe watching life pass you by, staring at the Eiffel Tower lit up at night, gazing at the twinkling holiday lights up and down the Champs Élysées or contemplating the skill that was needed to produce a painting by one of the masters. However, the closer to the center of Paris, the more likely your hotel or other accommodations’ cost will increase. It is worth it since being in the center of Paris puts you so much closer to the big sights and still offers you a choice of interesting Parisian neighborhoods to experience.
Choose your Parisian neighborhood carefully. Each neighborhood is known for different things. Picking the right neighborhood for you can pay off big as you wander the streets around your selected temporary home. Going out for meals in Paris can be ridiculously expensive. Consider choosing a place to stay with some type of kitchen access. That allows you to save a lot of money on your meals. You might even create some memories about finding your own favorite local shops for such things as bread, croissants, cheeses, pastilles, macarons, and foods.
If you are going to stay in Paris for four or more days (I recommend between four to seven nights), consider either using a service such as AirBnB for individual accommodations in the area you want to stay in or use an apartment rental service. These options will usually result in a cheaper accommodation for a longer stay. However, the trade off is you probably won’t have any cleaning services, so if you want clean towels you will need to launder them yourself. Still an apartment can offer a better feeling of being part of a neighborhood, kitchen facilities to help keep costs down, and provide privacy when you want or need it. There are at least nine or more well known short stay apartment rental businesses in Paris. I used Cobblestone Paris Rentals which is American owned, but Paris based. Cobblestone offered several different Paris locations, apartments sizes, and price ranges. They were informative, prompt, and very helpful throughout my time in Paris. Check them out at https://cobblestoneparis.com/ Some other recommended apartment services include Paris Perfect at https://www.parisperfect.com/ Paris for Rent at https://www.parisforrent.com/ ; and Cross-Pollinate Paris at https://www.cross-pollinate.com/paris/p/1. I have not personally used these three services, but I have read good things about them.
Be sure and visit the local cafes for lunch.
Parisian Arrondissements for value and convenience
The 4th Arrondissement, Le Marais, runs about from the Pompidou Center to the Bastille. There are several small hotels located in this area which can offer reasonable rates for being so close to the center of Paris. This is also a great area to consider renting a short stay apartment if you visit for four days or more. For my week long stay during the holidays, I rented a one bedroom apartment from Cobblestone Paris in a historic old building. It was located on a small side street just two blocks from the Pompidou Center. The apartment I rented had all the necessary things to make a trip comfortable and easier, including a small kitchen with a working stove, dishwasher, fridge, and microwave. The bathroom was also small, but it was modern with all the amenities in great shape, including a washer/dryer. Everything was included in the rental such as cable TV, internet, towels, bedding, dishes, silverware, cooking utensils, spices, cookbooks, Paris guidebooks, and even a bottle of wine. I found the apartment’s centrally located Marais location great since it was so easy to get around Paris from there, there were many choices of neighborhood streets to easily wander around, and shopkeepers and locals around there were helpful whenever I had questions. For a hotel stay in the Marais, consider staying at the Hotel Beaubourg, 11 Rue Simon le Franc, 75003 Paris. It offers good comfort, reasonable hotel prices for such a great central city location, and a very helpful staff.
The Marais is filled with jumbled up old medieval based streets where Parisians still live, work, and shop. The architecture here reflects its mixed heritage and includes old stone mansions, small boutique shop like buildings, and even some newer more up to date buildings here and there. In the Marais you can enjoy walking around a neighborhood that makes you feel like you are part of a very old European town and also at the same time part of a lively up to date trendy area. This part of town contains interesting sights like: the Carnavalet Museum covering the history of Paris and France; the Pompidou Center with its great collection of modern art and a wonderful view across the rooftops of Paris; Victor Hugo’s house set on one of the most historic squares in old Paris - the Place des Vosges; and the Picasso Museum. If you stay close to the Pompidou Center, you are also located within a short walking distance of Notre Dame, Sainte-Chappelle, Hotel de Ville (Paris City Hall), the Jewish Art and History Museum, and the Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was jailed and tried before being beheaded during the French Revolution. Transportation around Paris from the Marais is good. I found the Hotel de Ville Metro stop allowed me to easily connect to wherever I wanted to go in Paris. Another close by and handy Metro stop was the Rambuteau.
The 7th Arrondissement, the Left Bank of the Seine, is across the river from the Eiffel Tower. The Rue Cler neighborhood here is popular and contains wide streets, many old apartment buildings, a pedestrian only shopping street, and is bordered by the river, the Eiffel Tower, and Les Invalides. If you stay here, you can easily walk to the Eiffel Tower, the French Musée d l’Armee and Napoleon’s Tomb in Les Invalides, the Musée de Orsay, and Musée Rodin. Also close is the beautiful and elegant famous Parisian boulevard for strolling along and people watching, the Champs-Elysées. That boulevard leads you right to the Arc de Triomphe, a must see Paris historic monument.
While in this area, consider eating at the Cafe Constant in the 7th located at 139 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris. The food is tasty with changing daily specials. Try whatever the special for the day is as it will be good and reasonably priced. http://www.cafe-constant.com/fr/ Another place to sample some good, but for Paris inexpensive, food is the Brasserie Aux PTT at 54 Rue Cler, 75007 Paris.
On the Place de Breteuil in the 7th is the Saxe-Breteuil Market. Go to this food market when it is open on Thursday and Saturday mornings and shop for fresh produce and flowers like the locals do. If you can’t make Thursday and Saturday morning at Saxe-Breteuil Market, then shop the Rue Cler street open air produce stands and its shops to put together what you need for a meal or picnic.
On good weather days, you could take your picnic at the park by the Eiffel Tower or across the Seine to the Jardins du Trocadéro (gardens created in 1937). See the garden’s Warsaw fountains with 20 water cannons. These cannons provide a great water display during the daytime and during summer in the evenings they are illuminated. Transportation around Paris is good from the 7th Arrondissement. The main Metro stops in the 7th are Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, and Invalides. Also the RER line C has stops at the Pont de l’Alma and Invalides stations which can take you across town quickly and even out to Versailles.
The 5th and 6th Arrondissements, The Luxembourg Garden Area. While many places to stay here in these two Left Bank arrondissements are most likely more expensive than those in the 4th and 7th Arrondissements, they still offer that close in to the center of town location. Also, the Luxembourg Garden is a beautiful classic Parisian spot to see and enjoy its beauty with nearby sights such as St. Sulpice Church and the Pantheon, shopping, and many good cafes for eating and relaxing in. The Boulevard St. Germain, the Cluny Musée, and the Latin Quarter are all close by the gardens. For a reasonably priced hotel in this area consider the Hotel Bonaparte, 61 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris. Commit to staying there for five nights or more and get a reduction in price.
For reasonable prices and good food, check out the many cafes of the Boulevard St. Germain, Rue de Buci, Rue des Canettes, Place de la Sorbonne, and Place de la Contrescarpe. Try the crepes at La Crepe Rit du Clown at 6 Rue des Canettes, 75006 Paris or for making sure you get to see an original Art Nouveau place in Paris, check out the menu at Brasserie Bouillion Racine, 3 Rue Racine, 75006 Paris. The foods good, relatively reasonably priced, there is Belgian beer on tap, and the restaurant itself is a feast for your eyes (if you like Art Nouveau or if you just want to see what it must have been like in Paris back in the early 1900’s).
There is a good street market to check out nearby on the south end of Rue Mouffetard. It’s about five to six blocks south of Place de la Contrescarpe and you can also use the Metro stop, Place Monge to reach it. Open hours vary, but usually the market is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM until 1 PM and 4 PM until 7 PM, and Sundays from 10 AM until 1 PM, and is closed on Mondays. Transportation around Paris through the Metro is good from this area. Metro stops are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Mabillon, Odeon, and St. Sulpice. The RER-B line from the Luxembourg station has direct service to Cheles de Gaule airport and the Gare du Nord trains.
You need to figure out early how you plan to see all the spots that you want to visit.
Paris Transportation
When it comes to getting around Paris, your transportation choices are excellent. Paris’ public transportation is generally reliable, easy to use, and reasonably inexpensive. If at all possible, make walking your first choice for getting around Paris. Walking gives you the best opportunity to experience the sights and sounds of Paris first hand. However, If walking won’t get you there fast enough or where you want to go is far enough away you do not want to walk there, then take the Metro. The Metro can take you to most places around Paris at a reasonable cost and is fast.
I don’t recommend walking for long distances unless you want to look like this.
Walking
Walking around should be your first choice. If like me, you came to experience Paris, then you should walk through its streets. Enjoy the sounds and the sights. Even in the cold December weather, there were musicians out in front of the Pompidou Center, in the streets of the left bank people were gathered here and there, and in front of Notre Dame there were some performance artists. Talk to shopkeepers and others willing to stop for a moment to offer directions or other help. Contrary to what many believe about Parisians, I never found anyone there to be rude or unhelpful. The people I talked to tried their best to understand my few words of French or hand signals; indeed, many spoke English and were both polite and helpful. The historic neighborhoods of Paris are great places to wonder and to admire the beautiful architecture of its buildings. Take the time to check out the beauty of the oldest square in Paris, the Place des Vosges, which also is where Victor Hugo’s historic house can be found. Another great place to take a stroll in the evening is along the Champs Elysées to experience the coordinated and beautiful light display during the holiday season along the avenue. I think that one of the great things about Paris is that the areas most people want to visit when they come to the city are usually within walking distance of each other. Plus, it is hard to get too lost in Paris since the Seine and the Eiffel Tower are usually within sight to help you orient yourself.
All of the Metro stops are clearly marked.
2. Metro
The Metro is Paris’ main transport system. It is actually fairly easy to understand and is reasonably priced. The Metro runs trains underground with times ranging from about every five minutes to every fifteen minutes. Using the Metro gets you to pretty much wherever you want to go. It has over 300 stations spread throughout the city. Although the Paris Metro is divided into zones, most of the sights people want to see are within zones 1 and 2. The Metro system service hours are good and rarely change. It starts running most days at 5:30 AM and does not close until 12:40 AM or 1:40 AM on weekends and holidays. Please note that it is possible an event such a strike can shut down the Metro at times. Check these websites for the most up to date information at https://www.ratp.fr/en/visite-paris/english/visiting-paris-and-its-surrounding-areas or https://www.transilien.com/en
Buy your Metro tickets at the ticket booths inside many, but not all, stations or try using the ticket vending machines. The kiosk machines accept Euro coins or smart chip credit cards. Non-smart chip credit cards are not accepted. If you do not have a smart chip card, then use Euros to buy your Metro tickets. The most basic Metro ticket of 1.90€ covers travel for two hours going one way. Instead of trying to figure out the cost of individual use tickets, I recommend you buy a book of ten tickets called a carnet. Buy the Navigo Easy card for 2€ and the discounted ten ticket carnet for 14.90€. That makes each ticket less than 1.50€. Buy the Navigo Easy card at any Paris Metro or RER ticket booth. Ask the ticket agent for a “Navigo Easy avec un carnet.” That way the agent loads the10 tickets right onto the card for you and it can be used immediately. Buying your Metro tickets this way makes the day less stressful than if you had to stand in front of the machines to buy tickets as you go. The downside to Navigo Easy card use is while you can use it on the Roissybus and the Orlybus when buying those tickets as separate fare purchases, you cannot use it to take the RER to Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), Disneyland Paris, or for Paris-Versailles. That may change at any time, so check these two websites for more information https://www.ratp.fr/en or https://www.transilien.com/en
While using the Metro, remember sortie means exit and that there can be several sorties within one Metro station. Look at the Neighborhood Map posted inside each station, find where you want to go on the map, and then take the closest sortie to reach your destination. And if you can, try to avoid Metro rush hours Monday through Friday from 8:00 to 10:00 AM and 5:00 to 8:00 PM. Also, note that currently the Metro is undergoing construction as it works to adapt for disabled access. Some stations may close while this work is going on so check here https://www.ratp.fr/en/informations for up to date information about closings or for further information about holiday service hours.
If you are lucky enough to be in Paris this year for New Year’s Eve, the Metro has a “Free transportation during New Year’s Eve” program for New Year’s Eve in Paris. The Metro will work all night working in cooperation with the buses, trams, and RER trains from December 31, 2019 at 5:00 PM through January 1, 2020 at 12:00 PM. During that time, the Paris Metro will run all lines until 2:15 AM. After that only some lines will be work, but they may not stop at all the metro stations. Metro lines during this special service time are: 1, 2, 4, 6, 9, and 14.
The Paris Pass is your ticket to get into many places.
3. Paris Pass
Another method to cover your Metro travel is to consider buying a Paris Pass. That way is more expensive than just buying Metro tickets or the Paris Museum Pass, but it covers many attractions and historic sights entry fees and unlimited travel on the Metro, bus, tram, and RER within Paris. It even includes a one day hop on-hop off bus pass. Check its website for more information https://www.parispass.com/ Even for budget travelers the time saved by not having to purchase individual tickets to museums and attractions plus skipping some long lines to get into them, can make the Paris Pass worth the extra money. Consider what you want to see in Paris, then make a comparison of individually bought entry fees and Metro, bus, and other transportation costs to the cost of the Paris Pass for the number of days when you are in the city. For me, one of the best benefits of the Paris Pass turned out to be the ability to skip the long lines at some attractions like the Louvre and the Arch de Triumphe. On one very cold day when I went to visit the Arch de Triumphe that was a great benefit. Instead of standing outside in the long line which snaked around its base, I got to skip right to the entrance kiosk and start up the stairs.
The RER is comfortable and somewhat easy to use.
4. RER
The RER is the regional express network for Paris and its surrounding areas. It is a rapid transit type system of trains that serves the suburbs of Paris and also provides fast transport like a subway train through the city itself. It has five lines, A through E, and is operated by a different company than the Metro. RER trains run on scheduled times, unlike the Metro’s every so many minutes, and you can purchase tickets for a specific journey on the RER. Some Metro stations are also RER access stations, but remember that if you want to use a RER train you must use a RER station. A station served by a RER train will say on its sign RER and include the specific RER lines served inside a circle. Buy your RER tickets either online, at the RER station kiosk machines, put your RER ticket onto a Navigo card, or use a Paris Pass to cover your trip. Once you have your ticket, navigated through the right RER turnstile, and gotten to your train’s platform, you need to know that theRER train doors do not open automatically. To get on and off a RER train, you have to activate the doors through a button located on the handle near the middle of the double doors. Check the websites https://www.ratp.fr/en and https://www.transilien.com/en for more information.
Many streets have a bus lane to avoid traffic.
5. Busses
Bus routes criss-cross Paris and can take you on a sightseeing journey for a fraction of what a tour would cost. I also found out one day that a bus route would take me from the Eiffel Tower up to another part of the city directly instead of having to go through several transfers on the Metro. Even better than skipping the transfer stops on the Metro was the fact that I could sightsee along the Paris streets through the bus window as I traveled. Busses use the same tickets and passes as the Metro and the RER. A Zone 1 ticket buys you a bus ride to anywhere inside central Paris. Paris bus stops all have route maps, a schedule of stops information, an end of the line direction and stop name, and a small layout of the neighborhood of the stop. You can buy your single ticket on board the bus or use your Metro Navigo Easy pass. When using the bus make sure you get on the right one. Ask the driver if it goes where you want or check the sign on the front of the bus which displays its end of the line stop. Enter the bus through the front door. When ready to exit use the red button to let the driver know you want to get off and then exit through the rear door. Try a bus ride as an exploration of central Paris, you might find something in the city you did not know about before, or learn you can enjoy traveling about the city like a local.
Getting around by car isn't a bad way to go when you aren’t driving.
6. Taxis, Uber, Lyft, etc.
These all operate throughout Paris. They make the most sense when you are traveling as a group of four or more or with a lot of bags. Using these transportation services will cost more than using the Metro, so I recommend whenever possible travel through Paris like the locals do-walk or use the Metro. If you need an English speaking taxi service try https://www.paristaxi1.com/ I used them to get to CDG airport in time for my departure plane when my previously scheduled airport transport did not show. I called them for a taxi early in the morning before dawn. They were quick and efficient. At the time my ride cost was approximately 51€ and the driver preferred it in Euros, not on a credit card.
Uber and Lyft work in Paris just like they do in other cities and can be cheaper than a taxi, but in most cases they will not be cheaper than using the Metro or RER.
Spare yourself the stress and don’t drive.
7. Cars
Simply put - I do not recommend driving in Paris. If you have ever observed the traffic circle around the Arch de Triumphe, you really would say there is no need to join in at all. Public transportation is so cheap and covers the city so well that access through that transportation is easier and cheaper than having a car in the city. Save some money and stress. Have someone else do the driving.
Sightseeing with a touch of class
8. Seine boat cruises
I recommend you do at least one of these. There are at least three or more companies providing these boat cruises. Usual cruise offerings range from about 45 minutes to one and a half hours. The cruises leave and return to the same spot where they departed from. The only difference is the where they leave from and how far down the Seine they go. A cruise down the Seine may seem touristy, but I highly recommend it even in winter. Most boats offer inside glass window viewing seating which is warmer than being outside. However, to really see and feel that you are on the river I think you should go outside. Once outside, it can be windy and cold, but the view is really beautiful. You can smell the river and see the flags waving around while taking photos or waving to the people on shore. You can see many famous sights of Paris from a short river cruise, such as the Louvre, Notre Dame, Musee d’ Orsay, and the Eiffel Tower. There are also lunch and dinner cruises on the Seine. These are mostly aimed at tourists, but since you are a visitor, why not enjoy it? It gives you a different view of the city as you glide down and up the river. I took a Christmas lunch cruise for a leisurely ride down the Seine complete with a good meal and plenty of champagne. It was relaxing, offered good sightseeing from inside the boat and outside from the top of the boat, holiday music played, there was a traditional French yule log, and it was a warm way to spend a portion of Christmas day. Listed are just two of the companies offering a Seine river cruise. One company is Bateaux Mouches, cost 14€ website www.bateaux-mouches.fr Another company is Bateaux Parisiens with medium sized one level boats, cost 15€. Note that currently Paris Pass holders have a Bateaux Parisiens river cruise included as part of the pass by collecting the free ticket from the company’s Eiffel Tower departure point window at Pier 3. Be sure and check the Paris Pass website for up to date information on the river cruise at www.bateauxparisiens.com
Notre Dame decorated for Christmas was a sight to behold.
Christmas Services
Christmas Eve in Paris is the bigger event of the two days, Christmas Eve and Christmas. Nothing will probably make you feel more like you are in Paris than attending a Christmas Eve service at one of its many historic Catholic churches, large or small. Although the services are in French, you can still recognize the many traditional hymns. Since this is Paris, there is probably a church located near to your temporary stay neighborhood home. Some larger Paris churches with Christmas Eve services include: Madeleine Church; Basilica of Sacre Coeur; Saint Sulpice Church; and Saint Eustache Church. Since at present Notre Dame is undergoing repairs, it is not available for services this year. If instead you would prefer a service in English, there are several churches that have them. The American Cathedral (Episcopal) at 23 Avenue George V (Metro: Alma Marceau), offers a 5:00 PM Christmas Eve family service and a 10:30 PM Christmas Eve Midnight Mass with a Christmas Day service at 11:00 AM. St. Michael’s Church (Anglican) at 5 Rue d’ Aguesseau (Metro: Madeleine) offers a Christmas Eve service at 11:00 PM and a Christmas Day service at 10:30 AM. Or you could check out the American Church (inter-denominational Protestant), at 65 Quai d’ Orsay, (Metro: Invalides) as it offers a Christmas Eve family service at 4:00 PM and a Prelude Candlelight service at 7:00 PM (opens doors at 6:45 PM) and again at 9:30 PM. For the American Church up to date information check their website at https://www.acparis.org/
Buy your tickets to the Eiffel Tower as early as possible.
Eiffel Tower on Christmas Day
The Eiffel Tower is open on Christmas Day. Buy your tickets ahead of time, but be aware that even with an advance ticket purchase you will still stand in an outside security line for some time. Also, be aware that there are always crowds at the Eiffel Tower and you will be visiting it with many of your new BFF’s. Mingling in with the crowds around the Tower are some who are not your friends; pickpockets are here even on Christmas. Be mindful of your valuables. Dress warmly, you will be outside most of your time on the tower and it is very windy up on the second and top levels. One thing that makes getting to the Eiffel Tower easy - you can see it from anywhere around Paris since it is so tall.
For public transportation to the Eiffel Tower, you can use the Metro, the RER, or busses.
There are three Metro and one RER commuter stations nearby to the Eiffel Tower: Bir-Hakeim (line 6 Nation - Charles de Gaulle Etoile) which is an eight minute walk to the tower; Trocadero (line 9 Pont de Sevres - Mairie de Montreuil) which is a 12 minute walk; Ecole Militaire (Line 8 Balard - Creteil) which is a 15 minute walk; and the RER Line C stop at the Champ de Mars - Tour Eiffel which is a 7 minute walk.
Getting to the Eiffel Tower by public bus offers you several stops nearby: Bus 82 with stops “tour Eiffel” or “Champ de Mars” about a 5 minute walk; Bus 42 with stop “tour Eiffel” a 5 minute walk; Bus 87 with stop “Champ de Mars” a 6 minute walk; and Bus 69 with stop “Champ de Mars” a 6 minute walk.
Once you are ready to begin your Eiffel Tower journey, you can choose to go up to the first floor by the stairs or by using the elevators. If using the elevator, you should start your journey up by going to the highest level you bought a ticket for. I recommend buying a ticket for the top level since if you do not like it you can always leave and go down to the second level, but you cannot go higher if you did not buy that top level ticket. Go up to the top level and enjoy the view with the birds from far above the earth. Follow the line of the river to help you orient yourself to where you are in Paris. Take some photos! It will be beautiful up there whether it is daytime or nighttime. At Christmas time it will also be cold and windy so bundle up. When you are done enjoying the top level, take the elevator down to the second level. The second level observation platform offers stunning views of Paris. I think it is easier here to pick out specific sights. This level also offers a gift shop and a place to get coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, or some snacks. After spending time at the top level, I highly recommend a hot chocolate and a macaroon or two! Currently the price to go all the way up to the top by elevator is 25.50€ for adults. You cannot climb the stairs to the top of the Eiffel Tower as they are not open beyond the second level. A ticket to the second floor as your top level to visit by using the elevator costs less. I recommend you do not use the stairs at all during the winter and it is possible that the stairs may not be open due to weather conditions. Buy your Christmas Eve or Christmas Day tickets in advance to avoid the longer lines at the ticket booths at the base of the tower. Use https://ticket.toureiffel.paris/ to purchase your advance tickets.
I recommend stopping by Cafe Richard for some hot chocolate or coffee.
Holiday Windows Displays
A free activity at this time of the year is to browse the holiday window displays at the large department stores in Paris. On Christmas Eve or Christmas make a trek to see the displays and stop to have hot chocolate at a cafe in between each of your viewing stops. Every year the Paris stores go all out to decorate for Christmas with a different theme at each store. Displays include multiple window displays which have lights, animated features, and plenty of sparkle and cheer. Planning for a store’s window starts right after they take down the previous year’s decorations so a lot of effort goes into these windows and it shows. When the store is open, Galeries Lafayette has a giant tree underneath the building’s central dome; but you can check out their windows at any time. Le Printemps offers another well known store window display. Use Metro stop Chausee d’Antin to get to the Boulevard Haussmann to see both of those stores. Use the Metro stop Sevres-Babylone to get to Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche at 24 Rue de Sevres. Another store with windows worth going to see is at the BHV Marais at 52 Rue de Rivoli. Use the Metro stop Hotel de Ville to reach it.
The Christmas markets are well worth the crowds.
Christmas Markets
Another fun thing to do while in Paris is to visit one or two of its many Marchés de Noël or Christmas Markets. These are temporary market places filled with stalls selling handmade decorations and foods like cheeses, meats, and candy. They often have a place to stop and see Père Noël or Father Christmas. You might find a great gift at the market or not, but you can enjoy being there and hearing French spoken all around you. The one I went to was located close to Les Halles, the Starry Christmas market in Place Joachim-du-Bellay. Les Halles is just a few blocks beyond the Pompidou Center and is easy to find. Keep walking past the Pompidou entrance straight toward the lights and noise. That will lead you right to that Christmas Market and just beyond it, to Les Halles. Les Halles is a modern shopping center which is mostly underground, but also has three outdoor levels. Les Halles also has an outdoor, but covered stage area where free performances are offered. You can also get to Les Halles by the Metro stop Chatelet-Les Halles and the RER lines A, B, and D stop there at the Chatelet-Les Halles station. This year the largest Christmas Market is out at La Defense which lies outside of historic central Paris, but is easily reached using the Metro line 1 at the La Defense stop. Just be aware that it is located in zone 3. That is northwest outside of the central Paris Metro zones 1 and 2. RER line 3 also will take you there. For more information about the Christmas Markets including days and times open check the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau website https://en.parisinfo.com/discovering-paris/major-events/christmas-in-paris/christmas-markets-in-paris/christmas-markets-in-paris
I used this guide book and phrase book during my trip to Paris.
The following links are Amazon affiliate links.
Frommer’s Paris day by day: https://amzn.to/35ckbSA
Barron’s French at a Glance: https://amzn.to/2VLewjb
Poor Weather Activities in the Outer Banks
It’s not often that a summer rain comes to the Outer Banks and stays for the whole day. However, it can happen and when it does, it is best to have some ideas of fun or interesting activities to enjoy then while at the Outer Banks. When it rains, the movie theaters on the Outer Banks (yes, there is more than just one movie theater on the Outer Banks) fill up quickly and many people choose to curl up at their place and stream some movies, shows, or music. Beyond that, though, there are some other fun and interesting things to explore during periods of wet weather. Check out my list of top ten rainy day Outer Banks activities.
Ten Top Outer Banks Rainy Day Activities
It’s not often that a summer rain comes to the Outer Banks and stays for the whole day. However, it can happen and when it does, it is best to have some ideas of fun or interesting activities to enjoy then while at the Outer Banks. When it rains, the movie theaters on the Outer Banks (yes, there is more than just one movie theater on the Outer Banks) fill up quickly and many people choose to curl up at their place and stream some movies, shows, or music. Beyond that, though, there are some other fun and interesting things to explore during periods of wet weather. Check out my list of top ten rainy day Outer Banks activities.
My Outer Banks Top Ten Rainy Day Activities
1. The North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island.
If it rains and you venture out to the Aquarium in Manteo on Roanoke Island, you won’t be alone. Likely it will be crowded with others who had the same thought, but even when crowded, the Aquarium is worth a visit. In addition to its indoor exhibits and critters, the Aquarium also offers a lovely outdoor area with a sound side pier if it stops raining long enough for you to spend some time outside during your visit.
The Aquarium has a wide variety of sea life from the waters of the Outer Banks and is well worth its entry fee to just wander around experiencing the exhibits. See sharks, an alligator, river otters, and more. Touch stingrays and learn more about the Aquarium’s STAR (Sea Turtle Assistance and Rehabilitation Center). The STAR Center functions like a medical rehab unit for sea turtles. It’s great to know what is being done to ensure sea turtles survive and thrive. The aquarium does have some special tours for which you may need to preregister. Often such tours have an additional cost, but you can enjoy the Aquarium without participating in one of those. Free program features include such activities as shark feedings, stingray feedings, and creature features talks. If you ever wanted to touch or pet a stingray, the aquarium offers you that opportunity. At the time of this writing, the price of admission is:
Adults (13-61)- $12.95
Seniors (Ages 62 and older)- $11.95
Military- $11.95
Children (Ages 3-12)- $10.95
Children (Ages 2 and under)- Free
NC Aquarium Society Members- Free
You can purchase advance tickets, but that can not always eliminate entry wait times. Be aware the last ticket of the day is sold at 4:30 PM with a 5:00 PM closing time.
The aquarium has wheelchairs at Visitor Services for guests with mobility impairments, but only on a first come, first serve basis. You are not able to reserve them in advance. Personal ECVs and wheelchairs can be used on site as well. Service animals are allowed on the grounds. They are allowed in all areas, but to go into behind the scenes areas with service animals requires advance notice. Note that emotional support animals are not allowed on aquarium grounds or within the aquarium itself.
The aquarium offers sensory backpacks for free checkout (with a valid driver’s license to ensure it is returned.) These sensory backpacks are designed for guests with developmental disabilities and Autism Spectrum Disorder or ASD. The sensory backpacks include: assorted animal artifacts and animal models with labels; laminated copies of the Zoo Social Story; feelings thermometer; noise canceling headphones; weighted balls; and fidget toys. There are also sensory backpacks available for guests who have low vision or are blind. Those sensory backpacks include: laminated copies of the Zoo Social Stories; a monocular; animal artifacts and animal models with labels printed in size 18 font; yellow glare reducing glasses; and a magnifying glass.
The North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island is located at 374 Airport Road, Manteo, North Carolina 27954. 252.475.2300. Open hours are: 9 AM-5 PM daily. For up to date information check their website at http://www.ncaquariums.com/roanoke-island
Rainbow over Duck, North Carolina.
2. Wright Brothers National Memorial.
In Kill Devil Hills, this is a National Park Service memorial to the two brothers and their first successful sustained and controlled by humans flight of 1903. The brothers Wilbur and Orville Wright went here to these dunes in the North Carolina Kitty Hawk area due to the amount of open space available and the constant winds. They thought the winds would help add lift to their airplane. This Memorial is where their first flight lasting 12 seconds and traveling a distance of 120 feet happened. The pilot on that successful first flight was Orville Wright. The brothers actually made four brief flights on that same day on December 17, 1903. By the fourth flight, with Wilbur at the controls, the airplane flew for 59 seconds over a distance of 852 feet. Although the actual plane they flew here is now located in the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum in Washington, D.C., there are plenty of artifacts and interesting exhibits in the visitor center which tell the story of man’s first successful flight. The center also contains a reproduction of the Wright 1902 glider and their 1903 airplane. There is an engine block from the 1903 airplane along with a wind tunnel used by the Wrights in their experiments. Take the time to explore the replicas of the Wright Brothers’ living quarters and hangar. These are furnished as if the Wright Brothers could walk in today to use them. Sometimes NASA has exhibits on loan, so check and see if there are any during your visit here. The actual 60 foot tall memorial to the Wright Brothers’ flight achievement is located outside on top of a 90 foot hill.
The Wright Brothers National Memorial is located at 1000 N. Croatan Highway, Kill Devil Hills, NC. Phone: 252. 473.2111. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily, except for Christmas Day. At this time the entry fee is $10.00 for adults ages 16 years and older. Children 15 years and younger enter for free. The entry fee includes the day you visit and seven days afterwards. That is a nice feature since if the rainy weather is so bad you cannot actually get out to go to the memorial hill or see any of the outside flight markers, you are able to return for another visit.
3. Roanoke Island Maritime Museum.
The Maritime Museum is on the waterfront in downtown Manteo on Roanoke Island. This museum’s focus is on local watercraft suitable for using in the rough waters of the sound. If you are interested in boats or think you could be, this museum introduces you to how boats are made and used. On display here are an 1883 shad boat and other types of boats such as a clipper yawl, and a 1960’s hydroplane. This is also a working boat shop. It is a place where you can see boat construction and boat restoration first hand. If you have visited the Elizabeth II, the replica of the 1500’s ship that came from England to Roanoke Island, then you have been on a boat built here. The museum is usually open Monday through Friday, 8:30 AM until 5:00 PM, Saturday, 10:00 AM until 4:30 PM, and is closed on Sundays. Location: 104 Fernando Street, Manteo, NC. Call 252.475.1750 to check for current hours the day you want to visit.
4. Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station.
This is a museum housed in the historic Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station building. It still has all its original buildings and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Station’s museum showcases their historic mission of saving the lives of those on board shipwrecked ships off shore or ships in distress due to storms that can be prevalent out to sea off the Outer Banks. The U.S. Life-Saving Service’s successor is the U.S. Coast Guard. The Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station is located on Hatteras Island and is on the most eastern point of the state of North Carolina.
The museum is open to visitors from April through November. The entry fee helps support its foundation which is dedicated to the upkeep of the Station. Adults $8, Seniors 65+ $7, and children ages 4 to 17 $6. The Station is located at 23645 NC Highway 12, Rodanthe, NC. Phone: 252.987.1552. Check current hours and entry fees before you visit at https://chicamacomico.org/
Beautiful spring flowers shine through even a rainy day.
5. The Whalehead.
The Whalehead in Corolla was renovated and opened up to the public to visit in 2002. It is located in the historic Corolla park, not that far away from the Corolla village itself and the Currituck Lighthouse. What used to be a waterfront retreat home built by the wealthy Knight family in the Art Nouveau style during the 1920’s is now a place that all can visit. If you want to feel like you just walked into The Great Gatsby novel, then you should take some time to visit here. Take one of the audio self guided tours through the 21,000 square foot main house and be sure to check out the beautiful grounds surrounding it, including the boat house. There are some tours led by docents so check for those if you visit Mondays through Fridays. Those tours are generally done between 11 AM and 3 PM. There is also a boat house tour including the generator room which provided electricity to the property years before it came to the rest of the Outer Banks. Other tours like a behind the stairs tour or a moonlight ghost tour are also offered from time to time. Check for the twilight tour of the house as it often includes a free wine tasting. During the summer season on Tuesday or Wednesday afternoons the Whalehead and Historic Corolla Park usually sponsors some fun afternoon or evening events. These can include live local musician performances or wine tastings or beer tastings. Try calling 252.453.9040, ext. 226, to reserve these tours in advance of your visit.
Admission costs $10 for adults, $5 for students, and children under 8 are free. The Whalehead is located at 1100 Club Road, Corolla, NC, 27927. Their website is http://whaleheadwedding.com/
A flower to brighten any day.
6. Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education.
Also located in Corolla is the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education in the Historic Corolla Park. This is a fairly new 22,000 square foot interpretive center for people to visit if they want to better understand North Carolina’s wildlife. There is quite a collection of fish native to the area in an 8000 gallon aquarium along with some other critters. The Center highlights the marine diversity of the region’s ocean, sound, and estuaries.
From April through November, open hours are Monday through Saturday, 9 AM through 5 PM and the rest of year it is open Monday through Friday, 9 AM through 5 PM. It is open on Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, and Veterans Day and is closed on state holidays. Admission is free, but donations are accepted. You may want to call ahead to check on registering for any programs offered. The Center is located at 1160 Village Lane, Corolla, NC. Phone: 252.453.0221. For more information check the website at: https://www.ncwildlife.org/Learning/Education-Centers/Outer-Banks
7. Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum.
The Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum is located off NC Route 12 S at the southern end of Hatteras Island. This is a new maritime museum building. Offshore from the Outer Banks are the rough and unpredictable Diamond Shoals. Over as many as 500 years ships have been wrecked out there with many of them still down on the bottom of the sea. This museum contains many artifacts from shipwrecks and tells stories of the wrecks. The museum is also the home of the original Cape Hatteras Lighthouse Fresnel lens and has exhibits on diving, pirates, the Civil War on the NC coast, and World War II in the waters off of the NC coastline. An interesting exhibit displays the bell and some other items from the Carol Deering. The Carol Deering was a ghost ship which was found ashore without any passengers or crew who were never found. The only living thing on board the ship when it was found was its six toed cat.
Admission is free, but donations are welcomed. Open hours are generally Monday through Saturday, 10 AM until 4 PM. The museum’s address is 59200 Museum Drive, Hatteras, NC. Phone: 252.986.0720. Check their website for up to date open hours and program information at https://graveyardoftheatlantic.com
8. Shopping - Outer Banks Outlet Mall, Nags Head.
Shopping can be fun when rain keeps you away from the beaches. Check out the stores at the Outlet Mall in Nags Head. A great thing about going shopping in Nags Head is that when you are shopped out or you’ve spent most of your money, there are lots of choices for somewhere to eat afterwards. The Outlet Mall is not a large one like those in Williamsburg or Northern Virginia, but it does have a nice variety of shops right on the Outer Banks and it has plenty of parking spaces. There are usually about 20 stores located in the Outlet Mall. The mall is located at Milepost 16; the address is 7100 S. Croatan Highway, Nags Head, NC. The mall’s office phone number is 252.441.5634. Check the website to see what stores are there and opening hours at: https://www.outletsnagshead.com/directory/
A stormy day at the beach is better than not being at the beach.
9. Shopping - Duck, NC.
Duck as a shopping area is listed separately from the Nags Head Outlet Mall since it is a very different kind of shopping experience. Duck is a small village on NC Route 12 N filled with restaurants, some bars, unique shops, and in summer packed with vacationers. There are not really any chain stores here, unless you want to count stores like Wings or Kitty Hawk Surf Company which do have stores spread up and down the beaches. Duck shopping is for those who like to browse individually owned specialty and artist’s stores. These are scattered throughout the various small shopping clusters in Duck. There is a long wooden boardwalk on the sound front in Duck which links together many of the shops and places to eat. Some of the boardwalk is covered and some is not, so be aware of that if it raining hard. On the waterfront there is a dog bakery that makes it own homemade doggy biscuits, an olive oil shop that offers great tasting opportunities along with many varieties of balsamic vinegar, and a coffee/bookstore made for browsing with a good cup of coffee and something tasty. Near the waterfront, but just on the other side of the road is the Scarborough Faire Shopping Center at 1177 Duck Road (that’s NC Route 12 N in Duck) and next to the Faire are the Scarborough Lane Shoppes. Both offer covered shopping areas which is great for both rainy days and sunny hot days. Both offer boutique type stores that sell things such as clothes for all ages, books and toys, original art, antiques, home goods, jewelry, along with some must have beach things like skimmers, water toys, and surfboards. If you are interested in shopping, this is probably one of the best places to spend time doing it on the Outer Banks. If driving to Duck to shop, look for a parking spot (try the Scarborough Lane Shoppes covered parking lot), park the car, and then walk everywhere from there. Most of the varied shopping areas in Duck are close enough to walk to by using the varied pathways, sidewalks, and the town’s boardwalk. However, keep in mind that Saturday traffic in Duck during the summer season is something to avoid. That is when Duck Road turns essentially into a 2 lane parking lot because of everyone trying to leave or get to their week’s rental place. https://www.scarboroughfaireinducknc.com/
http://www.scarboroughlaneshoppesducknc.com/
10. Winery/Brewery Trip.
The Outer Banks is home to several individual breweries and there are some wineries nearby that offer tastings. Compile your own list of where you want to sample your brew or wine, make sure you have a designated non-drinking driver, and start your own pub/tasting crawl. This activity also offers you the benefit of seeing some of the Outer Banks as you travel about looking for your next place to stop. Aim for between three to four places for your crawl. With travel time up and down the Outer Banks, you should allow most of an afternoon or evening for this activity. Some suggested places are listed below, but this list is not comprehensive so be sure to do some more research online or ask friends to recommend additional places.
Stores: These are some stores on the Outer Banks that offer wine tastings and sometimes beer tastings:
Chips Wine and Beer Market, 2200 N Croatan Highway, Kill Devil Hills, NC. Phone: 252.449.8229, http://www.chipswinemarket.com
Tiro Restaurant and Market, 3708 N Croatan Highway, Kitty Hawk, NC. Phone: 252.261.0277, https://obxtrio.com
Tommy’s Natural Foods Market and Wine Shop, 1242 Duck Road, Duck, NC. Phone: 252.261.8990. https://tommysmarketobx.com
Bacchus Wine and Beer Bistro, 891 Albacore Street, Corolla, NC. Phone: 252.453.4333. https://bacchuswineandbeer.com
Howard’s Pub and Raw Bar, 1175 Irvin Garrish Highway (NC Route 12 S on Ocracoke Island), Ocracoke, NC. Phone: 252.928.4441. https://www.howardspub.com/Home .
Beer:
Outer Banks Brewing Station, 600 S Croatan Highway, Kill Devil Hills, NC. Phone: 252.449.2739. Try the Lemongrass Wheat Ale or the Closeout Nitro Stout or the hard cider made from North Carolina apples. https://www.obbrewing.com/
Growlers To Go, 1187 Duck Road, Duck, NC. Phone: 252.715.1946. This is not a brewery, but they do have 27 craft beers on tap. www.beerforthebeach.com
Weeping Radish Brewery, Butchery, & Pub, 6810 Caratoke Highway, Grandy, NC. Phone: 252.491.5205. This is on the mainland on US Highway 158, the Caratoke Highway (the road that travels south from Virginia to the Outer Banks), not too far from the sound in Currituck County. Buy a can of their Corolla Gold and part of the purchase price goes to the Corolla Wild Horse Fund. https://www.weepingradish.com
Lost Colony Brewery & Cafe, 208 Queen Elizabeth Street, Manteo, NC. Phone: 252.473.6666. Try their Raleigh Buxton Brew or for something lighter, try the Kitty Hawk Blonde. http://lostcolonybrewery.com
Wine:
Sanctuary Vineyards, 7005 Caratoke Highway (US Highway 158), Jarvisburg, NC. The tasting room is located in The Cotton Gin next door at 6957 Caratoke Highway, Phone: 252.491.2387. This location is on the mainland about three miles inland from the sound. Tastings are also available varied times at the three other Cotton Gin locations on the Outer Banks: Cotton Gin in TimBuck II, Corolla (US Route 12 N), 789 Sunset Blvd, Corolla, Phone: 252.453.4456; Cotton Gin in Duck, 1185 Duck Road, Phone: 252.261.2387; and the Cotton Gin at Milepost 14.5 in Nags Head, 5151 S Croatan Highway, Phone: 252.449.2387. http://sanctuaryvineyards.com
Vineyards on the Scuppernong, 117 S. Elm Street, Columbia, NC. 252.796.4727. This winery is located on the mainland off of US 64 about 50 minutes going west from Nags Head. You can’t miss the winery tasting room due to the large red letter sign that says Winery up on the roof. They also have recently added what they call their “pop-up” locations at two places on the Outer Banks. Both of these offer tastings of the Vineyards wines and sell their wines. In Manteo: inside Island Perk at 101 Budleigh Street (corner of Budleigh and Queen Elizabeth). In Duck: inside Donutz on a Stick at 1216 Duck Road which is also on the Duck sound front boardwalk. Check their website for more information at http://www.vineyardsonthescuppernong.com
Nice Weather Activities in the Outer Banks
When you go to the Outer Banks of North Carolina you expect sunny days and beautiful beaches. And that is usually what you get. If not, then that not so wonderful weather usually passes through quickly. In another post I’ll suggest some rainy day activities, but this is about Outer Beach activities besides enjoying the beach or pool.
Ten Top Outer Banks Sunny Day Activities
When you go to the Outer Banks of North Carolina you expect sunny days and beautiful beaches. And that is usually what you get. If not, then that not so wonderful weather usually passes through quickly. In another post I’ll suggest some rainy day activities, but this is about Outer Beach activities besides enjoying the beach or pool.
My Outer Banks Top Ten Sunny Day Activities
1. Jockey Ridge State Park, Nags Head, NC.
Jockey Ridge State Park is the place to be for many different activities.
Sunset: the park offers a top of the dunes view for those who want to experience a glorious sunset over the sound. Every evening many people head into the park and trek up to the top of the dunes to gather in groups, picnic, and enjoy watching the sun setting in the west. The park contains the tallest living sand dunes on the Atlantic which means the view from the top is pretty spectacular. Climbing your way up to the top of the dunes means you can see a long way up and down the Atlantic coastline and out over the Roanoke Sound to the mainland. Take your camera, something to snack on, a blanket or chairs, or be prepared to stand for awhile, and find your spot for the view. There really is not a bad viewing spot anywhere on the dune’s top so experiment around before you settle to watch. For safety and to offer help as needed, a park ranger joins the crowd each evening.
Hang gliding: the park is probably the best place to hang glide on the Outer Banks. It offers clear sightlines and lots of wind for those willing to hang glide. Be aware the winds up on top of the dunes can blow as much as 10 to 15 miles per hour. To hang glide here you must first get a permit at the park’s visitor center and have a current USHPA membership or other agency approved rating card. For those without such a rating, but still wanting to try it out you can take hang gliding lessons from the company with the concession located near to the park’s visitor center. Also, note that hang gliding stops one hour before the park closes.
Kite flying: while you can fly a kite pretty much anywhere along any Outer Banks beach, flying one from the dunes is rather special. As mentioned, there is plenty of wind and not much in the way of obstruction up at the top of the dunes. On any sunny day, you see kites flying from the top of the dunes, but the dunes are so big there is plenty of room for all to fly a kite.
Sandboarding: if you like snowboarding, then you might want to try to sandboard on the dunes if you have your own board. Check with the visitor’s center for the areas you can use and when you can do it.
Nature Views and Trails: there are three short hikes available. None of them will take long, but they do offer a glimpse into the maritime plant and animal life of the dunes. The boardwalk is 360 feet long and offers a viewing deck with benches at its end. From there you can continue onward to climb up the dunes. The Soundside Nature Trail is located off West Soundside Road and offers a short half mile round trip loop through maritime shrubs. Since the dunes’ height protects the thicket from the strong northeast winds, there are many varieties of plants here. The Tracks in the Sand Trail offers a slightly longer route of just over a mile round trip that leads to the Roanoke Sound. You can access this trail from the southwest corner of the main parking lot.
Other Park Activities: check the park’s website for ranger led programs and hikes. They often offer ranger led nature hikes through the park and kayaking tours along the sound. These are usually free, but some require pre-registration.
One other important thing to know about Jockey Ridge State Park is you must have shoes to help protect your feet from the hot sand and sandspurs. The sand bakes in the sun all day which means the sand gets really hot so beware of burning the soles of your feet. Also, as anyone who has spent time in warm sandy areas knows, sandspur plants are everywhere and it’s painful to have the burs harpoon like stick into your feet. For more information about Jockey’s Ridge State Park and current hours check it out at https://www.ncparks.gov/jockeys-ridge-state-park The park address is 300 W. Carolista Drive, Nags Head, NC 27959. 252.441.7132.
2. Outer Banks Lighthouses.
For those who like to look at or climb up inside lighthouses a visit to the Outer Banks means you’ve got five lighthouses to explore and experience. These lighthouses are listed below in order starting in the north and then going south. Not all offer a climbing experience, but all are historic North Carolina coastline lighthouses. For each one, I’ve listed both the lighthouse address and its website. Use the website to get further and up-to-date information.
Currituck Beach Lighthouse is in the northern beach village of Corolla. This lighthouse does not get any government funding and is funded and maintained through its nonprofit organization. Climbing up the 220 steps to the top costs $10.00 and tickets are sold on a timed entry basis. The view from the top lets the climber see a large part of the Currituck Sound, the Atlantic Ocean, the Currituck Outer Banks, and the village of Corolla. This is still an active lighthouse with a light that can be seen for 18 nautical miles after dark. It’s exterior has been left unpainted in its natural red brick color. During the summer the lighthouse is open most days from 9 AM until 5 PM, but stays open until 8 PM on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Currituck Lighthouse website: http://www.currituckbeachlight.com/ Address: Currituck Beach Lighthouse, 1101 Corolla Village Road, Corolla, NC 27927. 252.453.4939
Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse. This lighthouse is on the waterfront in Manteo on Roanoke Island. Roanoke Island is located between the Outer Banks town of Nags Head and the North Carolina mainland. The Lighthouse is a reconstruction of a 1877 square cottage style screw-pile lighthouse. That original lighthouse was located at the southern entrance to the Croatan Sound. This is not a climb to the top kind of lighthouse since it is a low one story square building that is only 37’ tall. This is an example of a river type lighthouse of the sort which were used to guard entrances to rivers and harbors. The lighthouse sits out about 40 feet into the Roanoke Sound with seating on its surrounding decking and offers a view of the sound and downtown Manteo. The lighthouse is managed by the Roanoke Island Maritime Museum that is located next to the lighthouse. Check out the museum for exhibits on local coastal history. For the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, check the attractions link at the Manteo town website for more information at: https://www.townofmanteo.com Address: Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, 300 Queen Elizabeth Ave, Manteo, NC 27954.
Bodie Island Light Station. This lighthouse is off of NC Route 12S not too far from where you turn south on 12 out of Nags Head. This is a working lighthouse where you can climb to the top several months out of the year. It has over 200 steps and climbing up it is the equivalent of climbing up a ten story building. The lighthouse is painted in a distinctive pattern of alternating horizontal white and black stripes. It is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and run by the National Park Service. The view from the top offers a view of the Outer Banks barrier islands stretching north and south. While you are visiting, take the time to walk the boardwalk into the marsh. The boardwalk gives you a chance to see the marsh thicket up close along with some local wildlife and birds. I found it offered some great photo opportunities in several places. Tickets to climb this lighthouse are sold on a timed basis, so visit early to get your climb in before it gets really hot out. Bodie Island Light Station website: https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/bils.htm or www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm Bodie Island Lighthouse, 8210 Bodie Island Lighthouse, Nags Head, NC 27959 Phone number is for the Cape Hatteras National Seashore Visitor Center 252.473.2111.
Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is located off NC Route 12S in Buxton. To get to the top means climbing 257 steps, the equivalent of climbing up a 12 story building. It is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and is run by the National Park Service. This lighthouse is an extremely popular visitor attraction so get there early to buy your timed entry ticket. Ticket sales begin at 9 AM and they go fast. Climbs run every 10 minutes and are limited to 30 visitors per climbing time. Ever wanted to climb a lighthouse after dark? You can do it this year on the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse Full Moon Tours offered on June 17th, July 16th, August 15th, and September 14th. Each of those evenings have two climb times, but you must reserve your ticket ahead of time. More information on these moonlight climbs can be found at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm You can see the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse from far away pretty easily as it is painted black and white in spiral stripes. That and its height makes it easily catch the eye. At the base of the lighthouse is a visitor center and small gift shop. Check out the Cape Hatteras Light Station website at: https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/chls.htm or www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, 46368 Lighthouse Road, Buxton, NC 27920
Ocracoke Light Station. To get to this lighthouse you need to find your way all the way south down the Outer Banks to the small island and village of Ocracoke. There are three different routes to get to Ocracoke, but all involve taking a ferry. The ferry from 12S to Ocracoke is the only ferry that is free, but be aware it is a long drive down the southern Outer Banks from Nags Head on 12S to get to the ferry stop to take you to Ocracoke. This is the smallest lighthouse on the Outer Banks at 75 feet tall. Its exterior color is solid white. It is also North Carolina’s oldest lighthouse in operation, but it is not open for climbing. Visitors are welcome to the site of the lighthouse and the village of Ocracoke is always fun place to wander around in.. The lighthouse is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and is operated by the National Park Service. Ocracoke Light Station website: https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/ols.htm Ocracoke Island Lighthouse, Lighthouse Road, Ocracoke, NC 27960.
3. Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve.
For those who want to experience what the Outer Banks must have been like before it was developed, this is the place to go. The preserve contains over 1000 acres and is free to visit. It is owned and operated by The Nature Conservancy. Hiking trails are open every day from dawn to to dusk (foot only, not for bikes or other vehicle use). The preserve contains sand dunes, freshwater ponds, marshes, and wetlands. Try the Blueberry Ridge Boardwalk and trail of 3.5 miles or the Sweetgum Swamp Trail, 2.25 miles, or the 1.5 round trip Roanoke Trail on the western edge of the preserve. There is also a half mile ADA accessible trail that combines a wooden boardwalk and concrete pathway. Address: 701 West Ocean Acres Drive, Kill Devil Hills, NC 27948. 252.441.2525. Website: https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/nags-head-woods-ecological-preserve/
4. Airplane Ride. Who has not wanted to someday take a flight in a small plane? Visiting the Outer Banks gives you your chance to do it. While it can be an expensive outing, an airplane ride offers the opportunity to see the Outer Banks and its coastline from a distinctly different vantage point - way up high. Go up in a plane or helicopter and imagine yourself as a heir to the Wright Brothers in the place man first made a successful motorized flight. There are at least three companies that offer a flight experience out of Manteo, NC. Check out these companies (I don’t recommend any particular company, but do recommend you do some research to see what you feel is safe and comfortable for you and your family.) Check at the Dare County Regional Airport, 410 Airport Road, Manteo, NC 27954, 252.475.5570, for companies and types of flights available; website https://www.darenc.com/departments/airport/airport-business-director Short flights can cost as little as $15.00 per person each for a three person ride. Costs go up from there for rides depending on the type of aircraft, number of passengers on a flight, and the length of the flight.
5. Manteo, NC. Manteo is located on Roanoke Island which lies between Nags Head on the Outer Banks and the North Carolina mainland. You can get there off of US Highway 64 going west from Nags Head or east from the mainland. The downtown of Manteo is a great place to wander around with many short crooked streets, small shops, a brewpub, interesting restaurants, a attractive waterfront for strolling around and looking at the many boats in the harbor, and some nearby historic sights. There is also a Saturday Farmers Market loaded with fresh produce for those willing to venture out into the Saturday summer season traffic of the Outer Banks. Roanoke Island was the site of the 1587 English ‘Lost Colony’ which had disappeared by 1590. That event and further settlement of the area provides a context for the many historical attractions around Manteo. Roanoke Island Festival Park located at 1 Festival Park, Manteo, NC contains or is nearby to several things worth seeing including: Settler’s Village and Native American Camp; the Elizabeth II, a 16th century sailing ship replica, check it out at https://www.outerbanks.com/elizabeth-ii.html ; the Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. 1401 National Park Drive, Manteo, which explores the fort built there in the 1580s, https://www.outerbanks.com/fort-raleigh.html ; and for those who enjoy gardens explore the 10 acre Elizabethan Gardens.1411 National Park Drive, Manteo, https://www.outerbanks.com/elizabethan-gardens.html. Also in Manteo is the Pavilion Outdoor Theatre which features outdoor concerts and live entertainment. In addition, the Roanoke Adventure Museum offers visitors 400 years of Roanoke Island history all in one spot.
6. Wild Horse Tours.
Corolla/Carova Wild Horses. The wild horses of the Outer Banks are descended from the Spanish mustangs. They roam wild in two main places, north of Corolla in the northern outer banks, especially in Carova and on Ocracoke Island at the southern end of the Outer Banks. In Corolla there are several companies that offer wild horse tours which is probably the best way to see them and take some photos. Different companies use different vehicles from open air safari style type big jeeps, to SUVs, to jeeps. They take you out off the road over the beach and up into the areas where the wild horses roam. Most of the guides I’ve ridden with are quite knowledgeable about the herd and are even familiar with individual horses. They will inform you of their history, including how the horses got there and how they survive. You should know that you are not allowed to get real close to the horses, but you can still get close enough so that even a point and shoot camera or cell phone can get a nice picture.
Ocracoke Wild Horses. The wild horses on Ocracoke Island live protected within a secluded 180 acre area on the soundside of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. The Ocracoke band is a small one and they are referred to as Ocracoke’s Banker ponies or wild mustangs. There is a wooden fence to keep them away from direct public contact, but you can often see them roaming through their area. It is believed that these wild horses are descendants of horses from Spanish shipwrecks from long ago around the mid 1500s. The herd today is very small, around 15 to 17 horses, but there are local efforts working with the National Park Service to maintain the health of the herd and increase its numbers. The Ocracoke Pony Pen has feeding stations. If you drive along 12S on Ocracoke, you will see the National Park Service sign for the Pony Pen. There is a soundside parking area close to the wooden fence borders. Stop there and take a look for the horses. The soundside parking area is across the street from a beach access so if you get hot while waiting to spot a pony, head on over to the beach for a refreshing cool off. In addition, there is a lifeguarded beach along with a soundside nature trail located about three miles south of the Pony Pen.
7. Crabbing. Crabbing can be a fun activity on the Outer Banks. To go crabbing for many crabs, you need to check about having a North Carolina fishing license. However, to do a little spot crabbing using chicken necks or other bait with a fishing line, you don’t need a license. Recreational harvest limits apply and you cannot sell what you catch. But that is ok, as in my experience it is more the fun of trying to catch the critters and then eat the few that are large enough to bother with that makes crabbing something to try at least once. So I am not talking about using collapsible crab traps, but instead of catching individual crabs using a line and some bait. Tie your bait to one end of a fishing line and toss it into the water. Hold on to the other end or tie it to a dock post or fishing pole holder. Wait and when the line seems to tighten, then a crab is after your bait. Be patient and slowly pull in the line without disturbing the crab who is munching on your bait. A slow and gentle pull allows the crab to hang on until you get it close to the surface. Then put a small fishing net into the water underneath the crab and scoop it out of the water. Be sure you have a cooler to put your caught crabs in if you intend to keep the crabs to cook and eat later. Note: you can’t catch more than 50 crabs in one day and the ones you keep must be between 5” to 6.75”. Otherwise you can’t keep them and need to put them back into the water. Oh, and be sure to watch out for the claws!
8. Golfing. Golfing can be relaxing, fun, and a good way to get outside. I recommend you try for early morning tee times due to the summer heat of the Outer Banks, but those times will be the most expensive. If you can tolerate the heat and don’t mind starting until the afternoon hours, then the price will drop. You can rent clubs, shoes, whatever you need or you can bring your own equipment. There are at least four golf courses on the mainland on US 158 East before you get to the bridge over to the Outer Banks. There are several public golf courses on the Outer Banks themselves, but be aware that these courses can be expensive. Try https://www.golfnow.com/ to see what kind of pricing you can find to make it less expensive, but if you like to golf then it is really fun to go golfing on the Outer Banks. One course in Nags Head is the Nags Head Golf Links, a links-style course located on the sound front. It is at: 5615 S. Seachase Drive, Nags Head, NC 27959, 252.441.8073. The views out over the Roanoke Sound from many spots on the course are a plus here. Check out their prices (which vary seasonally and weekday) at http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Nags-Head-Golf-Links/Golf/Rates Remember, although it is hot and humid in the summer months on the Outer Banks, the wind there can help to cool you off. Just remember to bring plenty of water or something refreshing to keep you hydrated and wear suntan lotion to prevent sunburn.
Miniature golfing. For those who don’t want to take vacation time for a full golf course experience or those who don’t golf, there is miniature golf. There are many miniature golf courses on most of the Outer Banks islands so there are lots of places to choose from. Miniature golf can be really fun in the evening when it is cooler and a good way to socialize with your families and friends. There is a real grass miniature golf course in Corolla which does not have all the tricks, turns, or tunnels of most miniature golf courses, but is surprisingly fun to play as it somewhat reminiscent of the real thing.
9. Fishing boat or Dolphin Sightseeing Boat Tours. Going out on the ocean further from the coastline on a fishing boat excursion or a dolphin sightseeing boat tour is a great daytime activity. If you like to fish or think you want to try it, then sign up for an excursion ahead of time with one of the many companies that offer them. You can check around for a company in your chosen Outer Banks location, find a listing in one of the many Outer Banks brochures, or stop at the visitor center when you arrive on the Outer Banks just after crossing over the bridge from the mainland. There also many boat tours that take people out out to see dolphins off shore. Both fishing boat and dolphin boat tours can be half day or whole day excursions. Prices for these vary by company, your location, season and/or weekday, and length of the tour. Being out on a boat seeing the coastline from the water gives you a different perspective of the Outer Banks. And being able to catch some photos of dolphins playing in the water is always something I enjoy.
10. Water Sports. The opportunities are almost everywhere for experiencing different kinds of water sports. Tear yourself away from walking the beach and swimming to give one of these sports a try. There are multiple rental sports equipment companies up and down the northern and southern Outer Banks. Kitty Hawk Kites is one of the larger companies offering both equipment and lessons. If you are hesitant to try a sport, then arrange for a beginner’s lesson so you will feel more comfortable giving your chosen activity a try. Remember that the sound, in addition to the ocean, can be a good playground. Try a jet ski for an adrenaline rush as you move fast through the sound. Remember that rental fees will vary by company and your location, but most generally run about $70 for 30 minutes or $100 for a whole hour of jet skiing. For those adventurers out there, another sport to try which gives you great views of the Outer Banks is parasailing. Somewhat less thrilling, but still a great way to see the waters of the Outer Banks is kayaking. There are so many location options for kayaking that it can be hard to pick just one. Bring your own kayak or rent one or try a locally guided kayak tour. The Cape Hatteras National Seashore offers multiple spots for kayaking. The Pea Island Launch is located at the New Inlet parking area just south of the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center. There is a place to launch at the Salvo Day use area just south of the village of Salvo, and in Ocracoke village there is parking lot launch across the street from the National Park Visitor Center. Paddleboarding has soared in popularity in recent years so paddle boards are for rent in many Outer Banks locations by either the hour or at a day rate. One company with multiple locations throughout the Outer Banks is Kitty Hawk Kites which offers paddle boards and other kinds of sports equipment. They also have a stand alone kiosk right on the Duck waterfront boardwalk. Check out their website at: https://www.kittyhawk.com/adventures/stand-up-paddleboarding/
North Carolina's Outer Banks Part 2
To reach the southern Outer Banks beaches from the northern beaches, head south from Nags Head on NC Route 12S and stay on it for awhile. You are now going to the southern islands of the Outer Banks. To reach the southern Outer Banks from the west (the mainland), head east on US 64 over the bridges until you reach Nags Head, then turn south onto 12S. A difference you’ll immediately notice from the northern Outer Banks is how many fewer people are going south with you.
The Southern Outer Banks Beaches
On a lazy summer afternoon clouds roll in over the Outer Banks.
Try the Southern Outer Banks Beaches for Serenity and Beautiful Scenery
To reach the southern Outer Banks beaches from the northern beaches, head south from Nags Head on NC Route 12S and stay on it for awhile. You are now going to the southern islands of the Outer Banks. To reach the southern Outer Banks from the west (the mainland), head east on US 64 over the bridges until you reach Nags Head, then turn south onto 12S. A difference you’ll immediately notice from the northern Outer Banks is how many fewer people are going south with you. So go south on 12S if what you really want to find in the Outer Banks is a sense of peacefulness, being close to nature, and fewer crowds. Go south if you put a high priority on just enjoying the beach the outdoors during your time in the Outer Banks. Go south all the way to Ocracoke Island if you have the time and want to experience the best, in my opinion, of the southern Outer Banks.
Spotted one morning soaring over the Outer Banks.
Bodie Island
After leaving Nags Head, one of the first places you’ll see on 12S is the Bodie Island Lighthouse where you can stop and climb up to the top. In 2019 the lighthouse opens for climbing on April 19th and it stays open through the spring, summer, and fall seasons until October 14th. There are over 200 steps which is supposed to be the equivalent of climbing up a ten story building. Tickets are sold (free tickets on April 19th) for those interested in climbing to the top starting at 9 AM through 4:30 PM. Check out www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm for up to date information. On a clear day, the view from the Bodie Island Lighthouse gives a climber an extensive view of the Outer Banks islands stretching way to the north and to the south. On the lighthouse grounds there is also a marsh boardwalk ending in an elevated covered look-out over the freshwater marsh. Take the boardwalk for the good opportunities it offers for wildlife photos. Bird watchers are known to set up their spotting scopes there for viewing the many birds visiting here or calling the lighthouse area home. The Bodie (pronounced body) Island Lighthouse is a still functioning lighthouse with its light beams switching on when it gets dark. This lighthouse is painted in a distinctive pattern of alternating horizontal white and black stripes.
Hatteras National Seashore
As you continue south after the Bodie Island Lighthouse, you are in the Hatteras National Seashore. In the ‘Shore there are miles of wide beaches with relativity few visitors compared to the northern Outer Bank beaches. As you drive on 12S every so often you will see public parking lots with some that offer facilities. The Hatteras National Seashore is part of the U.S. National Park Service as are the Bodie Island Lighthouse, the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, and the Ocracoke Island Lighthouse. The ‘Shore offers those who come to the park three different visitor centers with each one located on a different island, RV and tent camping sites, and many ranger led programs, all in addition to the miles of beautiful unspoiled public use beaches. There are three short hiking trails located inside the National Seashore: the Buxton Woods Trail, a ¾ mile loop which takes you to some high areas of Hatteras Island; the Open Ponds Trail, a nine mile round trip look at the variety of habitats on Hatteras Island; and the Hammock Hills Trail on Ocracoke Island, a ¾ mile loop through scrub, maritime forest, and salt marsh with a view of the Pamlico Sound. There are four National Park camping sites: Oregon Inlet Campground on Bodie Island; Cape Point Campground and Frisco Campground on Hatteras Island; and Ocracoke Campground on Ocracoke Island. If at all possible, I recommend that you reserve ahead to pick your spot at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm Due to its popularity and the overall limited camping spaces on Ocracoke Island, if you want to stay at the Ocracoke Campground you really should reserve ahead to be sure you get a campsite.
Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, and Avon
Traveling south on 12S you pass through these several small villages - Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, and Avon until you reach Buxton. Each of these smaller villages offer a variety of rental accommodations for folks. While these villages are located on the narrow parts of Hatteras Island, their beaches are still wide enough to allow you to spread out, walk a fair distance, and get away from any crowds. These are towns which offer lots of space between you and others. Rodanthe is home to the Chicamacomicao Life-Saving Station, one of the original 16 life-saving stations that used to exist on the Outer Banks for the purpose of saving sailors and their shipwrecks. The Life-Saving Station is now a museum worth a stop for an hour or two. Rodanthe is also well known for its surfing location at the S-Curves. The S-Curves are located just north of the village where 12S used to twist and turn. You’ll know if the surfs up when you drive by on 12S and the road is packed with cars alongside it. You’ll also see at that time, some folks with their cameras up on the dunes trying to get good shots of the surfers and waves.
The village of Avon is known for its fishing and the Avon Fishing Pier is known as a place to catch a giant red drum right off the pier.
A view out over the sound.
Buxton
Buxton is a quiet small town on the the widest part of Hatteras Island. It offers a very popular fishing spot off Cape Point and is known for offering great opportunities for surfing, kiteboarding and windsurfing. Buxton has a public beach at the Hatteras Lighthouse that has life guards during summer days. Be aware that the ocean here can be rough so having a lifeguard around can give people some peace of mind. Buxton is a small place, but offers a good variety of places to stay. It has both oceanfront and inland motels, campgrounds (bring bug spray), two bed and breakfasts, and homes or condo to rent. Buxton also offers some good hiking through the 1,007 acre Buxton Woods Reserve that borders the Hatteras National Seashore. Before you hike, use your bug spray. Buxton Woods offers hikes through shrub thickets containing live oak and red cedar, ridges with beautiful views, and the opportunity to see freshwater marshes up close. Buxton Woods Reserve is a resting place for migrating birds with more than 350 species of birds sighted, including both bald eagles and peregrine falcons. Access the Reserve’s hiking trails and parking lots by taking Water Association Road off of 12S. Don’t use the Old Doctor’s Road which is unpaved and rough unless you have a 4x4 vehicle.
The National Park Service’s Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is located in Buxton and offers a workout with an incredible view for those willing to climb the 257 steps. Going up those 257 steps is the equivalent of climbing up a 12 story building. Ticket sales to climb the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse begin at 9 AM with the last ticket sales at 4:25 PM. Go early to get your ticket as this lighthouse is a popular stop. Climbs run about every 10 minutes and are limited to 30 visitors per climb time. Ever wanted to climb a lighthouse after dark? You can do it this year on the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse Full Moon Tours on June 17th, July 16th, August 15th, and September 14th. Each of those evenings offer two climb times, but you must reserve your ticket ahead of time. More information on these moonlight climbs can be found at https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/lighthouseclimbs.htm You can see the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse from far away as it is painted black and white in spiral stripes. That and its height makes it easily catch the eye. At the base of the lighthouse is a visitor center for the National Seashore, Museum of the Sea, and small gift shop.
The old stone jetties where the Hatteras Lighthouse was originally located before it was moved further inland in 1999, just north of Cape Point, is a surfing hot spot of the southern Outer Banks. I’m told that its popularity with surfers is due to the combination of good waves and consistent conditions. Go early and check this spot out if you are interested in taking shots of surfers working their skills against the waves.
South of Buxton there is the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum at 59200 Museum Drive, Hatteras. It is one of the North Carolina Maritime Museums and offers exhibits about the Carolina coast, shipwrecks, and some interesting programs. Check it out- https://graveyardoftheatlantic.com/about/
Frisco
Next up on 12S is the small village of Frisco. Frisco is relatively isolated and the beach can be narrow, but it a good spot for those who want to really get away from it all.
Some days it’s just rough out there.
Hatteras Village
Hatteras Village is another small town on 12S located on the southern tip of Hatteras Island. Hatteras Village is really all about fishing. It proudly says it is the “blue marlin capital of the world.” Charter fishing is big here as the village is located just 15 miles off the Gulf Stream. Many people enjoy surf fishing on the shore here, but there is actually more than fishing to do around here. The beach is known for its large waves courtesy of the Gulf Stream meeting the cold water Labrador Current. The Pamlico Sound opposite the beach side offers visitors activities such as swimming, canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfing. Hatteras is a small village, but does offer many rental homes.
Wild ponies having a munch during a sunny afternoon.
Ocracoke Island
If you have never been to Ocracoke Island at the far southern tip of the Outer Banks, I recommend you try to go there. This is definitely a place to get away from it all. Ocracoke Island is located about 18 miles off the North Carolina mainland and towards the end of NC’s Route 12. To get to the island, drive south on 12 until you get to the ferry landing. You then take the free North Carolina state operated ferry with your car over to Ocracoke Island from the southern end of Hatteras Island. It takes about an hour on the ferry to get there. Of course, in the summer expect to wait some time to get your turn on the ferry. Just pull up in line and settle in to wait your turn. Remember it is ok to wait your turn as doing so will make you slow down and get into an island frame of mind. If you are going to Ocracoke Island from points west on the mainland, there are two other ferries to bring you over, but these take longer, usually require reservations, and have a fee to use them. However, that can be the way to go if you want to avoid the long drive south down Hatteras Island.
Once you reach Ocracoke Island, you drive further south until you reach where you want to stay on the island, either in Ocracoke Village or somewhere else. See the Hatteras National Seashore https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm for information about the NPS run campground. Many who come for a day visit or to stay longer, rent a golf cart to get around the island or use a bike to get everywhere. Ocracoke Island is a great place to park your car somewhere, slow down, relax, and enjoy the ocean breeze. The small village of Ocracoke is a quaint old fishing village with small streets to explore and enjoy. There are some good restaurants and unique shops in the village. Ocracoke, like Corolla much further north on the Outer Banks, has a small herd of wild ponies roaming the island. It also has the smallest lighthouse in the Outer Banks. The lighthouse is 65 feet tall and is North Carolina’s oldest lighthouse in operation, but it is not open for climbing. For those who like a refreshing adult cold beverage, be aware that beer is allowed on the beach, however, wine and liquor are not. Also, not allowed on the beaches is any form of glass. Ocracoke Island has about 14 miles of beaches, most of which offer lots of room to enjoy without being crowded. Unlike the northern Outer Bank beaches, Ocracoke Island is famous for shelling - walking the beach to find shells such as whelks, olive and moon shells. Best of all, the island offers many different types of places to stay at different price points including homes, cottages, hotels, campgrounds, and B & Bs. However, remember Ocracoke is remote and small so it is best to book your place to stay well ahead of your visit.
North Carolina's Outer Banks Part 1
Most people go to the Outer Banks off the coast of North Carolina during the summer months. That is when the weather is hot, lifeguards guard the beaches, all the restaurants and bars are open, stores are fully stocked, and there are lots of people enjoying themselves everywhere. However, if you can visit the Outer Banks during spring, April or May, or in the early fall months of September or October, you will experience the Outer Banks in mostly pleasant weather with fewer of your would be best friends around. One drawback to those months is there are fewer amenities open, but you can still usually find a good place to eat or drink. The weather is so pleasant during those shoulder season months that beach walks are a favorite activity any time of the day or evening.
Is it just me or are the lifeguards getting younger and younger?
When to visit the Outer Banks
The Outer Banks are barrier islands that jut out into the Atlantic Ocean from the coast of North Carolina. The waters off these islands are known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic due to the numerous shipwrecks, frequent rough seas, and treacherous, often shifting shoals. The maps of wrecks you can buy throughout the Outer Banks show many sunken ships just off these shores. This means the sea lanes for cargo ships and cruise ships lay far enough off the coast so for the most part you won’t see the big ships passing by far out at sea from the Outer Banks. That means when you look out to sea after sunset, it is usually peaceful and dark with only the sound of waves and the lights of the stars overhead. Just keep in mind it also means that, for the most part, the Outer Bank beaches are not great shelling beaches. However, they are great beaches for walking. If you had enough energy and time you could walk for miles on the beach, from Corolla in the north all the way to Nags Head further south. On the Hatteras National Seashore you can walk the southern Outer Banks for a long way without seeing much except the beach, ocean, dunes, and birds. So a visitor to the Outer Banks can experience beaches stretching out for miles, sand dunes, wild horses on the beaches north of Corolla and on Ocracoke Island, turtle nesting spots, and tons of birds.
Most people go to the Outer Banks off the coast of North Carolina during the summer months. That is when the weather is hot, lifeguards guard the beaches, all the restaurants and bars are open, stores are fully stocked, and there are lots of people enjoying themselves everywhere. However, if you can visit the Outer Banks during spring, April or May, or in the early fall months of September or October, you will experience the Outer Banks in mostly pleasant weather with fewer of your would be best friends around. One drawback to those months is there are fewer open amenities, but you can still usually find a good place to eat or drink. The weather is usually so pleasant during those shoulder season months that beach walks are a favorite activity any time of the day or evening.
If like most people, you plan to go to the Outer Banks in June, July, or August be prepared for the weather to be hot and humid. Most Outer Banks summers have rain crash the party once in awhile, but it is unusual when rain persists all day or for more than a day or two. That leaves plenty of time during a week long visit to sun and swim in the ocean and/or the pool and enjoy the long lazy days of summer and pleasant summer evenings.
Taking a stroll along the beach is the best way to end a long summer vacation day.
Which Outer Banks to visit?
The Outer Banks consists of a series of narrow islands strung out in sort of like a bending point from the North Carolina coast for about 200 miles. Choosing which of these places to stay can be a challenge if you don’t know them. Depending on where you pick to set up house along that 200 mile stretch for a week or two, you can have some town amenities or a more solitary experience. By the way, most if not all, hotels on the Outer Banks require a minimum stay of three nights or as much as a week to book them during the summer season.
There are two essential choices of where to stay on the Outer Banks: either the northern beaches or the southern beaches. Both northern and southern beaches are strung out along Route 12, either on 12N or 12S. It is also possible to stay in Manteo, a pleasant small town over the causeway from the mainland on Roanoke Island which is located between the Outer Banks and the mainland. However, most people want to stay as close to a beach as possible. So which should it be? Northern or Southern? I’m going to focus on the northern part of the Outer Banks in Part 1. Tune back in for Part 2 and the southern part of the Outer Banks coming next week.
Nothing beats those walks on the beach during summer.
The Northern Beaches
The Northern beaches include the well established towns of Nags Head, Kill Devil Hills (KDH), and Kitty Hawk. These towns have both 12N (aka, the Virginia Dare Trail or beach road) closer to the ocean side along with the larger inland four lane Croatan Highway that can zip you through these towns. Going further north from Kitty Hawk on 12N are Southern Shores, Duck, and the village of Corolla. Going even further north past Corolla, beyond the paved road (access is driving on the beach itself) is Carova, an area of humongous homes on sand streets and older fisherman cottages on inlets off the Currituck Sound.
Coming from Virginia or points north, you drive south toward the Outer Banks on Route 168. In North Carolina, that road turns into US 158 East and is the road that goes over the bridge into the Outer Banks. Once over the bridge you arrive on the Outer Banks at the northern edge of Kitty Hawk and the southern edge of Southern Shores. Once there you go straight to the intersection of Route 12 and the Croatan Highway (you can’t miss it and you can’t go east any further). You turn right there onto the Croatan Highway to travel south through Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nag’s Head. After Nag’s Head, then you leave the Croatan Highway and you can either turn onto the bridge going west toward Roanoke Island and return that way to the mainland or merge onto 12S heading toward the southern Outer Banks. If you turn left off of US 158 once you are over the bridge and on the Outer Banks at the intersection of Route 12 and the Croatan Highway, then you are on 12N heading toward the more northern Outer Banks towns.
Traffic on 12N can become a real problem late in the afternoon on a Saturday.
Summer month visitors should know that 12N, the main road going north (and south) through Southern Shores toward Duck, Corolla, and Carova, experiences very heavy traffic congestion on Saturdays and Sundays during the summer months. On Saturdays in the summer try to not get caught in that essentially non-moving north-south traffic. You will be sorry if you do! It can, quite literally, take two or more hours to travel just four miles. On those Saturdays, the traffic coming over the bridge into Kitty Hawk and then turning left to go north on 12N is bad from about 9AM until at least 3PM. Sometimes the horrible traffic starts even earlier and lasts longer! It’s all the cars arriving on Saturday for their vacation week in Southern Shores, Duck, Corolla, and Carova trying to fit into one two lane road at the same time. Note, that those turning right onto the Croatan Highway on their way further south to Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nags Head do not have the same experience. However, on those Saturdays, the traffic while still on the mainland US 158 before crossing over the bridge to the Outer Banks also backs up due to the 12N congestion so everyone using that route to the beach gets caught somewhere in stop and go traffic. If using US 158 East to get to the Outer Banks on these summer Saturdays, I recommend going early and making sure you have plenty of gas in your car well before you get near to the bridge.
Regarding Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nag’s Head, remember that choosing a location is all about easy beach access. You want to stay as close to the beach as you can possibly afford. You don’t want to have to cross Route 12, a two lane but well used road, if at all possible. Still many places in between Route 12N and the Croatan Highway in Kitty Hawk, KDH, and Nags Head are not far from the beach access points or too far to walk to the beach easily. Do not stay between the Croatan Highway and the Sound unless you are prepared to bike or drive to the beach, including crossing over an extremely busy 4 to 5 lane highway. You can find cheaper accommodations there, but it is at the expense of being pretty far from the beach and dealing with lots of traffic every time you go out. And when I say heavy traffic, I mean really, really heavy traffic during the summer months. During June, July, and August in 2018, about 212,036 people visited just one tourist site, the Wright Brothers National Memorial. So you can see that lots of people visit the northern Outer Banks towns during the summer. Just about every one of those visitors comes by car which makes these northern beach towns crowded with cars and people traveling Route 12 and the Croatan Highway. However, even with all that hassle of getting to a beach access point, some people do like to find a place on the soundside in KDH or Nags Head. Doing so gives them the opportunity to enjoy the beautiful sight of the sun setting in the evening to the west over the sound.
The OBX beaches can get very busy during the summer.
Kitty Hawk
Kitty Hawk is the oldest beach town in the northern Outer Banks. Many of its homes and buildings reflect that. Because of the older age of many of the homes and buildings, it does offer many places to stay at possibly the most reasonable price in the Outer Banks. But, be aware the beach is rather narrow in many places and, in my opinion, is not as visually appealing as in the other northern beach towns. Kitty Hawk does offer public beach access walkways and some public parking spots. However, the walkways to the beach in Kitty Hawk usually have people walking right through the dunes without a protective boardwalk or other way of keeping the dunes from being harmed. A good plus for staying in Kitty Hawk is it can save you some money while still allowing you to be within a short driving distance of many things to do.
Kill Devil Hills
Kill Devil Hills, also known as KDH, lies in between Kitty Hawk and Nags Head. It offers many comfortable homes and apartments for rent along with a few hotels here and there. KDH offers a nice beach with various public access points, some public parking spaces (not really enough to meet the summer demand) on the access points, and public parking lots. When looking for public parking spaces in KDH and Nags Head, look for the blue and white signs with an orange sun in the middle. These indicate public beach access and some parking. Most homes in KDH that lie between 12N and the Croatan Highway are not that far from the beach and can offer a good compromise between paying large amounts to be right on the beach and not being too far away from the beach. KDH also offers visitors plenty to do: the Wright Brothers National Memorial; easily accessible grocery shopping; miniature golf; a YMCA, movie theaters; a golf course; specialty shopping, breweries, wine stores, and plenty of good restaurants and bars. If you are or have young adults (drinking age or above) in your party, then KDH or Nags Head are good choices for you. There is plenty to do other than beach activities and enough variety of nightlife activities and places to keep people active and happy.
A woman and her dogs exploring Jockey’s Ridge State Park as a summer storm rolls in.
Nags Head
Nags Head is also a fairly well developed town and offers many choices of places to stay. The beaches in Nags Head are good and are also being replenished after suffering from some severe storms in the last few years. There are many types of places to stay including homes, hotels, apartments, and condos at different price points. Again, it is probably best to pick your location as close to the beach as possible and make sure the busy Croatan Highway is to the west of anywhere you pick. Nags Head also offers several public beach access points, some public parking spaces (in many places still not really enough to meet the summer demand) on the access points, and public parking lots. During the summer months it is probably best to grab your beach parking spot before 10AM or 11AM as most public parking fills up quickly. I recommend checking out the lovely Nags Head beach area of Coquina Beach. It’s at the town’s southern end and has soft sand, a wide area between the dunes and the water, facilities, and a public parking lot. But remember, during the summer months on the Outer Banks your best bet is to rent somewhere where you don’t need to drive in order to get your beach access. Nags Head has many fast food places, wonderful restaurants and bars, the Outer Banks outlet mall, the Outer Banks hospital, a golf course, movie theater, miniature golf, a ropes course, and Jockey’s Ridge State Park. Jockey’s Ridge State Park is where the tallest natural sand dunes in the East Coast are located and is a fun spot for hang gliding or watching the sun set in the west. Located just over the bridge going west from Nags Head on US 64 is Manteo where it can be fun to stroll the downtown, see the historic sights and aquarium, and stop for a beer and lunch. If you are going to Nags Head or the Outer Banks from North Carolina or further west pick up US 64 in Raleigh, NC and take it all the way east until you reach Nags Head. Congestion on US 64 is nowhere as bad, even on summer Saturdays, as it gets for those using the Route 168 to 158 route up further north to get onto the Outer Banks. Going south from Nags Head on Route 12S takes you to the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and then on further south to the southern beaches.
Southern Shores
Southern Shores is the town just north of Kitty Hawk, above KDH and Nags Head. The island through here is fairly narrow along 12N, although there is a lovely residential area between 12N and the sound. Southern Shores is a mostly quiet residential beachfront community. Be aware, as stated earlier, that 12N going through Southern Shores gets very congested on summer Saturdays. The beaches at Southern Shores are accessible through public access walkways for those not staying right on the beachfront; however, there is no public parking for beach access use in Southern Shores. Also, parking is not allowed on any street in Southern Shores.
I really recommend checking out Duck Donuts next time you’re in Duck.
Duck
Duck is the next town going north past Southern Shores. In my humble opinion, Duck is the nicest beach town of them all. The village of Duck has a lovely 11 acre Town Park with a public green, playground, trails, picnic areas, and amphitheater for outdoor gatherings. The park offers weekly summer activities including free music concerts one night a week, often daily yoga or an exercise activity in the early am, along with some weekly children’s activities. The town’s boardwalk is a bit over a mile long on the Currituck Sound with access to the town park and the many shops and places to eat along the sound front. Don’t forget to stop and get your donut from Duck Donuts just off the boardwalk. Also, there are several good places to shop, either along the boardwalk or just across the street under the many shaded outdoor shopping areas. Duck has a great selection of restaurants and shops. It offers a good selection of rentals from condos, timeshares, resort hotels, and homes. Many places to rent between 12N and the beach can be expensive, but some timeshare or condos may offer reasonable availability. Plan ahead to snag those places. Duck has a great beach - wide enough to walk on even when the tide is in. There are lifeguards on the beach during the daylight hours. The further north you go on the Duck beach, the fewer people there are to share the beach with you. Duck does not offer any public beach access. But if you stay in Duck, your place will offer beach access. There is a shared public pedestrian and bike-way that extends along 12N from Southern Shores through Duck up to Corolla.
Driving on the beach just north of Corolla can be a lot of fun.
Corolla
Corolla is an old village, but is the most recently developed northern beach town. It is centered around a fishing village core, but has spread out along the beach and 12N in recent years. Corolla offers a beautiful wide beach in most places, eight public access beach parking lots, and lots of different types of places to rent. Corolla also has a fun real grass miniature golf course, a community pool area with gym access, a shopping center, movie theater, and some good restaurants scattered throughout the area. The wonderful old Whalehead Club sits beside a golf course. The Whalehead Club offers public wine tastings most Wednesday summer afternoons, public building tours, and other programing. Once you get north past Corolla and into Carova, there are the wild horses to see. People are not allowed to get too close to the horses, but there are several companies which provide good tours to see the wild horses. Close to Corolla village is the red brick Currituck Beach Lighthouse which offers climbers (220 steps) panoramic views of the village and beaches from its top.
Road Trip Advice For Iceland
When visiting Iceland, many people plan a driving trip around the country. It is the best way, as well as often the only way, to see many of Iceland’s best sights. I’ve included here some of the best tips that I found helpful on my recent trip to Iceland.
Stay focused on the road and not the beautiful scenery.
When visiting Iceland, many people plan a driving trip around the country. It is the best way, as well as often the only way, to see many of Iceland’s best sights. I’ve included here some of the tips that I found helpful on my recent trip to Iceland.
Consider these two planning resources.
Purchase a guidebook to help you as the guidebook puts all the important bits and pieces of Iceland information into one easily accessible place (I prefer Lonely Planet).
Check out https://www.inspiredbyiceland.com/ for a good overall visitor’s guide to Iceland. It has a good section on driving in Iceland along with other websites to visit regarding such information as weather conditions.
Use http://www.road.is for relatively up to date road conditions with helpful webcams.
Driving is an amazing way to see and experience Iceland.
Iceland Tips.
1. You can easily see Þingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss on the Golden Circle during one day of driving.
2. Rent your car at the Reykjavik airport. You can grab a free shuttle from the airport to your car rental company. Honestly, if you don’t have many bags or people with you, you can walk from the airport to most of them. Either way, the rental car agencies are not far from the airport.
Some of the back roads can be a bit narrow.
Iceland Driving Advice.
Remember you drive on the right side of the road in Iceland (just as in the US, Austria, France, Spain, Switzerland, and many other countries.)
You can use your American driver’s license to drive in Iceland. Also, Canadian and countries of the European Economic Area (EEA) driver’s licenses are alright to use for driving in Iceland. Other licenses are alright to use as long as on the license itself it includes: license number, holder’s photograph, valid date, and is printed in Latin characters All others will need to get an International Driver’s License to drive in Iceland. Also note: the minimum age to drive in Iceland is 20 and you must have held a full (not restricted) license for at least one year.
Iceland car rentals require a valid driver’s license, a passport, and a credit card.
Do NOT drink and drive. Iceland takes drinking and driving very seriously. The blood alcohol test level is low at .05%. The penalties for DUI/DWI are stiff. The base fine for a first offense is about 70,000 Kronur or $625.00.
Always have your headlights on. It’s the law in Iceland due to long low light summer days or the short dark winter days and during the spring or fall when the sun sits low in the sky the sunlight can be blinding to a driver. Also, the law says you must use seat belts.
Don’t drive while using your cell phone unless you have a hands-free system. Iceland is strict about this. The base fine for it is about 5000 Kronur or $45.00.
Note that, unlike in the U.S., turning right on a red light is illegal.
I found that driving in Iceland got a lot easier the further away from Reykjavik I went.
There are two big concerns with driving in Iceland. First, be aware of the need to keep your eyes ON the road. Iceland has an incredible scenery. Thus, it can be extremely distracting. Too, remember not all the other drivers will be keeping their eyes on the road. This makes it even more imperative that you drive defensively and be aware of all the cars around you. Second, once you get outside of Reykjavik you will most likely not see many police looking for speeders. However, you will most certainly run across speed cameras. If you’re going too fast in front of the cameras, then you will get a ticket. Nobody wants a souvenir like that. You will see a small sign with a camera on it shortly before each speed camera zone. I saw most of these cameras located near populated areas, but it is definitely a good idea to avoid speeding everywhere just to be safe. The speed limits in Iceland are: 50 km/h or 31 mph in urban areas; 80 km/h or 50 mph on gravel roads; and 90 km/h or 56 mph on paved hard surface roads. Also, unlike in the U.S., while there may be special warning signs indicating problems ahead like sharp bends, there is usually no separate road sign to tell you to reduce your speed. Beware of the sharp turns.
Some countryside bridges are single lane bridges. Be very careful when approaching and crossing these bridges.
Some roads will force you to transition from pavement to gravel as you get further from Reykjavik and the Ring Road that goes around most of the country. Be aware that some car rental companies will count any gravel damage against you if you do not have the insurance. It’s best to make the transition to these gravel roads slowly or you might lose traction on the gravel road. Most highland roads in Iceland’s interior are very narrow gravel roads which are not made to handle any kind of speed travel at all.
It is not necessary to rent a car rated for the F roads unless you plan on driving on one of the F roads. However, you might want to have the peace of mind that comes with having a raised SUV that can handle the worst road conditions that you might encounter. I was thankful that I had a F road rated vehicle when I almost got stuck in the West Fjords area outside of Drangsnes. However, you absolutely do not need all wheel drive or 4 x 4 vehicles if you only plan on driving in the capital or staying on Iceland’s Ring Road.
Driving off road is illegal. Do not do it!
The wind in Iceland is no joke. Be careful opening and closing your car doors on windy days. Some days it was downright impossible to open my car door into the wind.
If you see sheep, slow down. Watch for them to cross the road in front of you.
Fuel in Iceland is extremely expensive. Be sure to budget extra money for it. The only ways that I can think of to avoid this money drain are to stay in the capital or take a tour instead of driving yourself. Remember to fuel up the car whenever possible. Think ahead about putting fuel into your car. If you are going out into the countryside, check ahead to find where is the next gas station. You want to be enjoying the scenery, not worrying about whether you can find a gas station. Be aware, even on the Ring Road, there are some long stretches where there are no gas stations.
I only came across one toll in Iceland. That toll was to use a tunnel on my way to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. You can avoid this toll, but driving around this tunnel will add a considerable amount of time and fuel cost to your drive. It’s honestly better to just pay the toll, especially if you’re in a time crunch.
Iceland’s weather can be unpredictable. Check the forecast when you can to keep up to date about weather conditions where you are headed.
112 is the Icelandic version of 911 in the United States.
That trip to the Westfjords will take a bit longer without a vehicle.
Money Savers for Car Rentals
Book your car rental for Iceland as far in advance as you can. The earlier, the better rate you will obtain and the more options you will have to choose from. Book a car with unlimited mileage.
Be sure to rent your vehicle before you get to Iceland to ensure you get the size and type of car for your needs.
Create a Rakuten account. Many travel arrangements can be made with Rakuten turned on which means you will eventually get a small percentage of what you spent back in a rebate. If you use the hyperlink that I provided and make a purchase of $25 or more with a new account, I will get a few dollars and you will too. I’ll be able to use the money from Rakuten to help pay for the costs of this website. You can use the money that Rakuten will pay you to help cover that first tank of fuel while on your Icelandic road trip.
Create an Expedia or Travelocity account and book through them - with Rakuten turned on - to get a low price and a % back.
Check out https://www.rentalcars.com/en/ and https://www.autoeurope.com/ These two websites often have the best car rental prices you can find.
You should explore if you can combine your car rental with your flight purchase to save more money by buying as a bundle and get a % back on the deal.
Pay for the rental car insurance. Iceland’s roads are often rough and things happen. Gravel roads often mean dirt, debris, and gravel are kicked up and hit the vehicle. Consider maybe even paying the fee so you can return the vehicle without a full tank (recommended if you are returning your rental vehicle the same day as your flight.)
Thinking about traveling to Iceland? Consider picking up a copy of the guidebook I used to help plan my trip.
The following link is an Amazon affiliate link.
Lonely Planet’s guidebook to Iceland: https://amzn.to/2yG9mMq