This is where I share stories, lessons, and advice from my travels around the world.

Japan Thomas Duffey Japan Thomas Duffey

Day Trip to Nikko, Japan

I highly recommend taking time to visit Nikko during your stay in Japan. It is worth at least one day to see the impressive waterfalls and visit the shrines. It is truly one of the really beautiful areas of the country and within a reasonable driving distance from Tokyo.

I highly recommend taking time to visit Nikko during your stay in Japan. It is worth at least one day to see the impressive waterfalls and visit the shrines. It is truly one of the really beautiful areas of the country and within a reasonable driving distance from Tokyo. Here are some important points to consider for your visit there.

It’s hard to get this view on a tour bus.

It’s hard to get this view on a tour bus.

Transportation to Nikko from Tokyo

Transportation is always a major consideration for any trip.  An important cost issue when taking a tour in Japan is the cost of the transportation and of having a tour guide to help explain what you are seeing.  Questions such as how will you get to see what you want to see and whether you would like or need a guide are important factors to decide on. Unless you are renting a car or paying for a private use vehicle with a driver, then the best ways to travel to places like Nikko are going by either a tour bus or by booking a semi-private vehicle.  The tour bus option usually comes with one to two guides, covers any basic entry fees, and is often quite reasonably priced. As you might expect, the semi-private vehicle costs more than taking the tour bus. The semi-private vehicle’s driver is usually just that, a driver, not a tour guide. You might luck out and get a driver that doubles as a tour guide, however that could cause the cost of the semi-private vehicle to go up.  There are several pluses to using a semi-private vehicle, but using one does make your excursion cost more. The cost difference between these two transportation options can range from as little as $50.00 to over $200.00 or more depending on where you are trying to go and how long you plan on being at the location(s).

Carefully considering the costs of an experience for a budget traveler is important, but it is always good to balance the cost of an experience against the cost of the actual execution of obtaining that experience.  Always remember you travel a long way to see and experience different places and cultures, so keep in mind that it is important to know what you can physically handle at any time. Think about how the cost of what you do affects the experience you are aiming to achieve.  

Remember when you consider the cost of the tour bus to include the cost you will pay to get yourself to the bus designated pick-up location and on your return the cost of getting from the drop-off points to your hotel or place you are staying in.  Japanese taxis are not cheap, but can take you to the exact pickup location you need to be at to meet your big bus tour operator. Subways are another option, but using them requires more pre-planning to determine: which line(s) to use; where the closest station is to the pick up location; and how long it will take to walk from the subway station to the pick up location.

A driver that doubles as a tour guide can be a good deal.

A driver that doubles as a tour guide can be a good deal.


Comfort vs cost equation considerations

When paying for a private or semi-private (meaning shared with a few others) van you are essentially paying for more personal space, more comfortable seats, and a driver that is usually more willing to be a bit more flexible with time management at the locations you will be visiting.  The van itself will also naturally be able to park in areas where a tour bus could never park. So sometimes from a van you will have less of a walk to the location from the parking lot. In addition, the private or semi-private vehicle cost may or may not include the admission fees. Be sure to check on whether or not these are included.  In a bus tour most attraction’s admission fees are included in the price of the bus excursion.

Taking a big bus tour to visit locations definitely helps save some money on the price of your sightseeing and experiences in Japan.  You’ll also be more than likely have a dedicated tour guide or maybe two for your whole tour group. In Japan, a tour guide can be handy when it comes to explaining information about what you are visiting or when the next chance to obtain food is or where is the nearest restroom.

The essential question that you have to ask yourself is this: does the money I’ll save by being on a tour bus and having a tour guide outweigh the time savings and cost of being picked up and dropped off at your hotel and having much more comfortable seats?  When considering bus versus smaller vehicle tours, I recommend taking into account things such as do you have a family with small children or anyone with mobility issues. If either of those situations apply to you, you might prefer using a semi private or private van tour provider.  A smaller vehicle can mean more flexibility to your tour day. A smaller vehicle means you are sharing your tour experience with fewer people which in turn usually means it can be quicker to get to a site, into the actual site, and back out again. Also, if you want to linger at a particular location or a portion of it, then you can usually do so without feeling rushed or being left behind by your tour group.  You can also often do some adjusting regarding how long you visit somewhere or at what time you need to leave Nikko to return to Tokyo with your driver.   

One plus to taking a big bus tour can be the opportunity to meet other people interested in seeing the same things as you.  As a solo traveler, I have found a tour bus sometimes gives you a chance to meet and talk with people with similar interests about their travel experiences and tips.  In the past, it has even worked out that I could meet up with someone at another time or day for lunch or dinner. It can be a nice change to not eat solo every so often on your trip.  


When to go to Nikko

It’s not like you can’t visit this place year round, but there are times of year that you might prefer over others.  I visited the Nikko area in August. It was warm with great weather for my trip there. If your only travel availability is during the summer, then I recommend going on any day with nice weather.  However, Nikko is very popular during autumn because of the changing colors of the leaves. When I went in August there were other tourists there, but most places that I visited in Nikko were not completely overrun with tourists.  The only exception to that was the Toshogu Shrine. That place was crawling with tourists. From everything I have heard about it, it is very popular and very beautiful throughout the year. Just be aware that if you are headed to Nikko in autumn, to be prepared for the large crowds also trying to see waterfalls surrounded by the autumn colors.

Kegon Falls almost seems unreal at first.

Kegon Falls almost seems unreal at first.

See the waterfalls!

The Kegon Falls are listed on Japan’s top 100 waterfalls for a reason.  This waterfall is thought to be one of the top three Japanese most beautiful waterfalls.  Kegon Falls is an almost 100 meter waterfall. This high waterfall is the only exit for the waters of Lake Chuzenji and as such has a pretty impressive waterflow.  It is a popular place to view autumn colors, especially toward the end of October; however, viewing Kegon Falls is still a powerful sight to behold during the summer.  A fun fact to know is that during most winters, Kegon Falls actually freezes almost completely solid. There is a free platform to view the falls, but I highly recommend taking the 100 meter deep elevator which does have an admission charge to get the best view of the falls.  The cost for the elevator to the viewing platform is not much, but the view is much more impressive from the platform accessed through the elevator. For a nice lightweight and easy to carry souvenir of your visit to the Falls use some of your Japanese yen to buy a pin with the waterfall on it.

The pin is inexpensive and easy to bring home as a souvenir.

The pin is inexpensive and easy to bring home as a souvenir.

The Ryuzu Falls Park is a great place to soak in the ambience of the area.

The Ryuzu Falls Park is a great place to soak in the ambience of the area.

The Ryuzu Falls Park is located near Lake Chuzenji.  It has a walking path alongside the length of the approximately 210 meter falls.  There is a gain or loss of about 60 meters, so it is somewhat steep to climb up or walk down.  When you are standing at the top of the falls you are 1,355 meters above sea level. I visited the Ryuzu Cascade Terrace during the summer, but I bet the best time to visit these falls would be during autumn.  The path and waterfall is lined with trees. There is a parking lot at the top of the cascades and at the bottom. I recommend that you start at the top and walk down. There is also a shop at the bottom for souvenirs and food.

The Toshogu Shrine is a popular tourist stop.

The Toshogu Shrine is a popular tourist stop.

Visit Toshogu Shrine

The Toshogu Shrine is a popular stop among tourists visiting the area.  Do not be surprised if the place is packed with people. The shrine’s complex is very big and demands a large amount of your day if you wish to explore every part of it.  I recommend planning on arriving early in the day or later in the afternoon. The crowds at the Toshogu Shrine during the midday were too large to allow for comfortable exploration of the whole shrine area.

The Toshogu Shrine contains elements of both Shinto and Buddhism.  This shrine is actually the final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate.  The Tokugawa Shogunate ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868. In this shrine, there are more than a half dozen separate buildings.  One of the most impressive to see is the Yomeimon Gate. This gate is a very ornate structure. It features very intricate decorations and many different architectural features.

Many of the shrine’s buildings are covered with elaborate wood carvings and gold leaf.  An interesting wood carving on one of the shrine buildings depicts the famous three monkeys of See no evil, Speak no evil, and Hear no evil.  Gold leaf is used throughout this shrine. The use of so much gold leaf means this shrine looks quite elaborate. Its use is unusual as most Japanese shrines are much simpler.   

The Futarasan Shrine is a beautiful place to explore.

The Futarasan Shrine is a beautiful place to explore.

Visit Futarasan Shrine

The Futarasan Shrine is a much simpler shrine than the Toshogu Shrine.  Futarasan Shrine honors the three deities of Nikko’s sacred mountains: Mount Nantai; Mount Nyoho; and Mount Taro.  This shrine is very ancient having been founded in 782. Its founder was Shodo Shonin, the Buddist monk who introduced Buddhism to Nikko.  But, the shrine is actually a Shinto shrine. The grounds of this shrine contain several sacred cedar trees. These trees are thought to be around 1000 years old.  It is said that these tall ancient trees stretch up toward heaven. When you look up at them, it is easy to believe that since they are so tall. There is a beautiful main worship hall (Honden) and several other smaller shrine rooms. Behind the shrine itself is a pleasant garden to stroll through and enjoy seeing an outdoor Japanese garden.

The Futarasan Shrine is a lot less crowded than those in Tokyo.

The Futarasan Shrine is a lot less crowded than those in Tokyo.

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Japan Thomas Duffey Japan Thomas Duffey

Mount Fuji for First Timers

Unless you plan on taking everything with you on your hike up Mount Fuji, you’ll need somewhere to put everything you won’t need on the mountain.  There are three options that I saw being used.

Mount Fuji for First Timers

There is nothing like watching the sunrise over the clouds.

There is nothing like watching the sunrise over the clouds.

Preparing To Climb

I recommend physically and mentally preparing for your climb. You should also consider consulting a physician if you are at all worried about how this hike could affect your health. There are a few different things you can do to prepare for your hike. I recommend mixing up your training between workouts in the gym with hiking outdoors or up and down stairs with a weighted pack. Start off light then gradually add weight until you are comfortable carrying the amount of weight you will carry while climbing Mount Fuji. Be sure to add time or distance to your hikes as you get more fit. After all, you will be hiking up Mount Fuji for several hours or even for a couple of days.

A little bit of knowledge can make getting to the summit a lot easier.

A little bit of knowledge can make getting to the summit a lot easier.

Do Your Research Before You Hike

My trip to Japan was a last minute trip with very little planning.  I paid dearly for that while trying to get around Tokyo. However, I did have enough time to purchase several guidebooks that helped me get by.  The one guidebook that helped my more than any other with my Mount Fuji ascent was Richard Reay’s fourth edition of Climbing Mount Fuji.  It was very useful for a last minute trip like mine, but could have been so much more useful if I had more time to plan.  There are also plenty of resources out there on places like YouTube.

Acting like making it to 3,200 meters wasn’t a struggle. It was.

Acting like making it to 3,200 meters wasn’t a struggle. It was.

Self-Climbs vs Guided Climbs

There are a few pros and cons to doing a self-climb or doing a guided climb.  Both options make sense depending on the time of year, skill level of the climber making the attempt, language skills of the climber, and schedule flexibility of the climber.  No matter which option you go with, it is always a good idea to have a hiking partner.

Hiking among the clouds

Hiking among the clouds

Self-Climbs

In most cases this option can be the cheapest of the two; however, it will also require more pre-planning.  For a self-climb the hiker must plan the route to get to Mount Fuji. If you have some experience with the Japanese rail/bus system then the transportation to Mount Fuji can be done with a small amount of forethought.  However, a lack of Japanese language skills can make it a little more difficult reserving a mountain hut for a two day climb or renting hiking gear that you forgot or could not bring with you. If you run into trouble on the mountain, then there is no one to translate for you unless you are hiking with someone that can speak Japanese.  Self-climbs are more freeing in that you can plan to ascend and descend on the same route or descend down another route for a change in scenery.  

Guided climbs can get a bit crowded.

Guided climbs can get a bit crowded.

Guided Climbs

In most cases this option can prove to make the experience less difficult as the only real thing you will most likely have to accomplish is hiking up the mountain.  Most companies will take care of the planning, transportation, booking the mountain hut accommodations, providing guides that speak your language and Japanese, arranging meals, and if you’re lucky something relaxing like a hot spring afterwards.  However, selecting a guided climb will ensure that you are no longer flexible with the date you are going to make your attempt. Guided climbs can also mean a large group going up together.

My group about to make our final push to the summit.

My group about to make our final push to the summit.

Safety

Mount Fuji is still considered an active volcano.  It is just one of over a hundred live volcanoes in Japan.  The last time Mount Fuji erupted was in the early 1700’s. However, there was a much more recent eruption at Mount Ontake, Japan’s second tallest volcano.  It is located a little over 60 miles from Mount Fuji and in 2014 that eruption killed many hikers. When Mount Ontake erupted it was at the lowest level on the risk scale for an eruption and at the same level as what Mount Fuji is currently.  Please understand that there is a risk in hiking Mount Fuji, but also know that the mountain is being monitored and the likelihood of an unforeseen eruption is slight. For the latest updates, weather warnings, natural disaster warnings, daily weather updates, and more take a look at the Japan Meteorological Agency’s website https://www.jma.go.jp/jma/indexe.html

Altitude sickness is no joke on Mount Fuji.  Symptoms can vary person to person. I personally got slight headaches a couple times that wouldn’t go away until I took altitude sickness medication.  I recommend drinking plenty of water, giving your body time to acclimatize to the altitude gain, take your time hiking up the mountain, and if necessary, using an oxygen canister or altitude sickness medication.

I recommend that if you are planning a solo day hike then be in the best shape possible and do not start from the fifth station later than 07:00 AM. I also recommend limiting your hiking at night unless you are experienced and know what you are doing. There were more than a few steep drop offs along the trail.

Not much farther to go!

Not much farther to go!

Climber Etiquette

Those that are hiking up the shy mountain have priority over those descending.  If possible, please get off to the side and allow those going up to pass you on your way down.  I recommend taking breaks along the way. If you take a break, then do so on one of the sides of the trail or in a place where you do not block other hikers.  Fires and littering are absolute no nos on Mount Fuji. Please do not do either. In recent years there has been a major push to clean up Mount Fuji. I highly encourage you to leave no trace as you spend time on the shy  mountain. Do not deviate from marked paths and stay off the tractor routes. Those tractors are how supplies are brought up to the mountain huts and how the rubbish is brought down off the mountain.  

It takes some strong legs to make it through the volcanic sand.

It takes some strong legs to make it through the volcanic sand.

Subashiri Route

Most people no matter what route they take start at the fifth station of that particular route.  I was no different. Most people that I met took the Yoshida route due to the beginner level difficulty, how easy it is to get to Yoshida’s fifth station, and the fact that it is the best maintained of all the routes.  However, I used the Subashiri route. I really enjoyed the parts of the Subashiri route like passing through the forest and the great views when the clouds went away. My absolute favorite part was going outside at night and early morning while staying in one of the mountain huts on the trail.  The clouds were gone and I could see for miles. The city lights from as far away as Tokyo could be seen. It was a truly beautiful sight to behold. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures, so you’re going to have to climb Mount Fuji to see for yourself. 

There are a couple downsides to the Subashiri route that I feel obligated to warn you about.  First, if you go on a weekday you won’t have to deal with the crowds really until about the eighth station where the Subashiri and Yoshida trails merge, I never found the trail in the forest hard to navigate, but it might be difficult during fog or at night.  The sand section on the decent is a killer if your legs are not conditioned or are already tired. There were times during the sand section that I would take a step and slide another couple inches. It got to the point where at times I felt as if I was skiing or ice skating.  Also, I suggest topping off your water before you begin the sand run part of the descent. You won’t have another chance to visit another hut until you complete this portion of the mountain. 

Imagine trying to walk through here at night without a light.

Imagine trying to walk through here at night without a light.

Mountain Huts

The mountain huts are spread out along the different routes. They typically offer some services other than a place to rest. If you do not have a walking stick, then I recommend you pick up a traditional wooden walking stick at the fifth station when you begin your journey. This is an awesome souvenir to have as you can pay money along the way to get stamps added to your walking stick. Each hut will either have a sticker or a stamp to add to your walking stick. Each marker will be added over the last one. Eventually the stamp you obtain at the summit will be the topmost stamp on your walking stick. When you return to the fifth station you can have your stick cut if there is any excess wood left without stamps. Having your hiking stick cut shorter will make it easier to get it home. Another service these mountain huts offer would be selling food and drinks. As mentioned above, if you give the person back the empty bottle you bought from them at that hut then they will take it from you. However, if you walk off with an empty bottle then you will be carrying it for the rest of your hike. Last but definitely not least these huts will offer toilets, but they will cost you. Most of the toilets I used cost around 200 yen, so remember to bring coins. I must warn you that some of the toilets are squat toilets and some are western toilets. Just imagine trying to use a squat toilet if your legs are tired and sore and you aren’t used to using a squat toilet. I recommend using the toilets at every opportunity to avoid any mishaps.

The sleeping accommodations can be cramped inside the huts.

The sleeping accommodations can be cramped inside the huts.

Mount Fuji offers different kinds of terrain and weather that can change without warning.

Mount Fuji offers different kinds of terrain and weather that can change without warning.

Hiking Equipment Recommendations

Do not attempt to climb Mount Fuji without breaking in your hiking shoes or boots, a lightsource, water, and proper clothing. 

I recommend using hiking shoes with some leg gaiters.  The gaiters will help keep the volcanic dust and rocks out of your hiking shoes.  I didn’t use gaiters when I hiked Mount Fuji. The lack of gaiters didn’t really bother me on the way up.  However, I paid for it while I was descending. The amount of volcanic dust and rocks that I took out of my shoes during the descent could of filled a large coffee mug.  Also, the interior of my shoes, my socks, and toes were covered in volcanic dust for days even after cleaning all three multiple times a day. I’m still not sure if I will end up trashing my hiking shoes.  I just keep finding more volcanic dust every time I use them. To sum it up, use gaiters.

I recommend using a headlamp.  Anyone that has gone camping or hiking in the dark will tell you having a headlamp will make things easier compared to using a traditional handheld flashlight.  Since I was using a headlamp while I hiking to the summit in the dark, I was also able to use my walking stick and get water without having to stop and rearrange things.

I used a camelbak as my water source while on Mount Fuji.  I highly recommend you do the same if you plan on refilling your water at each station along the way.  The workers at the mountain huts will only take trash from you if it is something you purchased from them.  If you use a camelbak, then you can refill your camelbak in front of the workers or nearby and return the empty bottle to the worker.  This will drastically cut down on the amount of space being used in your backpack for trash. 

Consider using a backpack with a capacity of at least 25 liters.  Do not fill it all the way up, so you have room for trash and souvenirs at the summit.  Most backpacks are not waterproof, so bring a cover for your backpack or at least a waterproof bag to store items inside your backpack.

I won’t go into too much detail for clothing, however I will mention a few things.

Dress in layers. During my push the summit I was able to warm up and cool off pretty much on command by dressing in layers.

Bring waterproof gloves.  Thankfully I didn’t need mine too much, because it only rained lightly a couple times.  I mostly used mine during the early morning push to the summit when I felt cold.  

 Bring a hat.  I saw some that opted for a large brim hat to protect themselves from the sun.  I opted to spend most of the time hiking with a trucker hat. I used a fleece skull cap during my early morning push for the summit.

Bring water resistant and waterproof clothing with a hood.  These clothing items can serve as an outer layer and as protection from the elements.

The huts will sell you basic things like snacks and drinks.

The huts will sell you basic things like snacks and drinks.

Recommended Extras

I decided to include a list of a few things that the first time hiker might not think about. I hope it helps. I would love to hear from other hikers as to what items they would recommend the first time hiker take with him or her.

Camera

Although it is not entirely necessary to bring a camera to enjoy Mount Fuji, it is nice to have one to document the experience.  How often are you going to be in the area and have the opportunity to experience a sunrise at the summit of Mount Fuji above the clouds?

Ear Plugs and a Face Mask

I tend to be a heavy sleeper, but you might not be.  If you are a light sleeper and plan on staying a night inside one of the mountain huts, then you’ll want to bring ear plugs and a mask to cover your eyes.  The sleeping conditions inside the hut I stayed in consisted of sleeping on a pad laid out over wood, a sleeping bag, and a small pillow. There was no personal space for most of the people sleeping in the hut.  I was lucky and slept on the end with a few empty spots next to me, so I had some room. I wouldn’t count on you being so lucky, especially on a weekend when more people are able to hike.  

Photo Copies of Your Medical and Insurance documents

Photocopies of your important documents could play a crucial role in seeing that you get aid as quickly as possible if you are unconscious and/or hurt.

Trash Bags

Trash bags can be useful in a few different ways.  You can use them to secure any trash you might accumulate during your hike.  They can be used to hold any dirty laundry you might have if you are making a two day trek and brought a spare change of clothes.  They can also be used, if big enough, to act as a cheap alternative to a waterproof bag to line the interior of your backpack if you get rain while hiking Mount Fuji.

Spending Money

Beyond bringing coins for the bathrooms, you might want to bring some extra cash to spend on souvenirs or at least some drinks or food along the way.  Personally, I like to think of my photographs as my souvenirs, but I still found myself buying a couple pins at the summit with the date stamped on them.

Sunscreen and Sunglasses

You will need protection from the sun while hiking.  If it isn’t cloudy and raining, most of your hiking will have you exposed to the sun.

The lockers at Gotemba are really close to where the busses arrive and depart from.

The lockers at Gotemba are really close to where the busses arrive and depart from.

What To Do With Your Extra Gear

Unless you plan on taking everything with you on your hike up Mount Fuji, you’ll need somewhere to put everything you won’t need on the mountain.  There are three options that I saw being used. First, if you are planning to hike it all in a day then leaving your excess stuff in a locker at a place like Gotemba Outlets makes sense.  The outlet mall has a bus station with buses that can take you to places like Tokyo. However, I do not really recommend that option to hikers planning to make Mount Fuji a two day experience.  Instead I recommend leaving your gear at the hotel you will be staying at afterwards or paying the extra money for the night you won’t actually be in that hotel. I chose to leave my stuff at the hotel.  I made a reservation at the hotel for the nights before and after my hike up Mount Fuji. The staff at my hotel were accommodating when I made it clear that I was coming back for another night. I did not do what other hikers did and pay for a night in a hotel just to act as a storage locker.  Also you can ask your tour guide if you have one, if they provide storage for items while you are hiking. My tour guide did, but it was small and for everyone that was going.   

A little bit of reading can save you a lot of time and effort later.

A little bit of reading can save you a lot of time and effort later.

Recommended Reading

The follow link is an Amazon affiliate link.

Climbing Mt. Fuji (4th Edition) : https://amzn.to/2zvoKvA

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Japan Thomas Duffey Japan Thomas Duffey

Ten Experiences To Have in Tokyo

A local tour guide once told me that for the Japanese shopping for chopsticks is like shopping for the right pair of sneakers.  Everyone in the household has at least a pair of their own and each of them must be tried on before purchasing.

Ten Experiences To Have In Tokyo

I highly recommend ending your day by taking a cruise on the bay.

I highly recommend ending your day by taking a cruise on the bay.

If you’ve never been to Tokyo, then the idea of planning what to do can be utterly overwhelming at times.  The city itself is massive. I had about ten days to spend in Tokyo during the summer of 2019. The trip was completely last minute, which is not my style, so little planning went into it, As one traveler mentioned to me while I was in Tokyo, you can spend two weeks in Tokyo itself and still not experience or see everything.  As it turns out, I couldn’t agree more. In that spirit, I came up with ten experiences that you should consider while visiting Tokyo. Understand that this isn’t a comprehensive list. It’s just ten things that I personally got to do and I think you should give them a shot if you’re struggling to decide on your itinerary. I’d love to hear what you experienced and would recommend in Tokyo.  

The big bus tour guides can be a great resource for understanding what each neighborhood is known for.

The big bus tour guides can be a great resource for understanding what each neighborhood is known for.

1. One Day Bus Tour

I can already hear my friends and readers screaming out no in my mind upon reading that I just recommended a bus tour of Tokyo.  I was originally skeptical too. Hear me out. I met a guy from England that made a good case for it while I was sitting through the bus ride and felt like I was being ushered along like cattle at each stop.  If you have a day to spare, then a one day bus tour actually makes sense in a city you’ve never been to before. It allows you to hit a few highlights and decide what you’d like to explore more later. The bus tour also can allow you to meet other travelers if you’re like me and traveling solo.  If you have a good guide you might even get some knowledge dropped on you from time to time. The whole experience showed me some things that I wanted to explore more, even more things that I didn’t need to waste anymore time seeing, and in addition, I met a couple other travelers. I used Viator to find a tour operator called Japan Panoramic Tours and had an overall good experience with them.  If a one day bus tour of Japan is something you’re interested in, then you might want to consider using them.

Using the touch screens can add a bit more understanding to what you are seeing outside.

Using the touch screens can add a bit more understanding to what you are seeing outside.

2. Tokyo Skytree

There are a surprising amount of things to do in the world’s largest broadcasting tower.  You can grab a snack at the Skytree Cafe, eat a meal with a great view at the Sky Restaurant, walk out onto a transparent 12mm thick glass floor, have a commemorative photo taken by a professional, buy some souvenirs, take a guided tour, and of course, enjoy the view.  If you’re like me, then the view is what you want. I recommend going on a clear day with as little haze as possible. Why? Because it isn’t just any view you want to pay the big money for. If you’re lucky and the weather is just right, you can see from the observation deck Mount Fuji 106 kilometers or almost 66 miles away.  Unfortunately, the shy mountain as it is sometimes called, is often surrounded by clouds blocking it from view. Be sure to grab a map with the points of interest labeled or use one of the touchscreens to know what you are looking at. Otherwise the 360 degree view is somewhat overwhelming on a clear day and it might be difficult to know what you’re actually viewing.  Remember, Tokyo is a massive city after all.

Meet the Japanese Statue of Liberty!

Meet the Japanese Statue of Liberty!

3. Visit Odaiba and Cruise on Tokyo Bay

In a city with an estimated population of just over nine million it can sometimes be difficult for travelers to find a bit of peace on the often crowded streets with so many tourist stops everywhere.  Odiba is itself not the answer to finding some peace and quiet, but we will get to that in a minute. There is actually a lot to do in Odaiba from the many cultural heritage festivals, concerts, places to stop at like the Gundam cafe, a digital art museum, a marine park where you can find tourists and locals hanging out, and many other things to see and experience.  By the way, did you know Tokyo has its own statue of liberty? It’s found on Odaiba. With all those fun things going on it might be hard to realize that a relaxing quiet few minutes can be found closer than you think. Odaiba, for the uninitiated, is an island. There are a few ways to get to Odaiba, but my personal favorite is taking the ferry. The ferry to and from Odaiba isn’t a long ride, but with good weather the top deck offers a peaceful and beautiful view of the Rainbow bridge and the Tokyo shorefront.  Be sure to wave as you pass by other boats.

Prayers from locals are on display at this shrine in Tokyo.

Prayers from locals are on display at this shrine in Tokyo.

4. Visit a Buddist Temple or Shinto Shrine

The topic of which Buddist Temples and Shinto Shrines to visit in Tokyo could easily be blog article or even a series in itself.  However, I want to focus more on a simple explanation of what they are, how are they different, and why you should visit both in this article.

Avoid the crowds by arriving before the midday tour bus rush.

Avoid the crowds by arriving before the midday tour bus rush.

Japanese Buddist temples and Shinto shrines are centers of worship for their respective religions.  I don’t think I need to go too far into that right now. Just please be aware of that and be respectful when visiting them.  Please stay out of the way. Do not cause a distraction during ceremonies, especially if you’re an American. The last thing we Americans need is to do is reinforce the old stereotype that we are loud and rude.  

There are signs explaining how to do some of the rituals for those who can read the instructions.

There are signs explaining how to do some of the rituals for those who can read the instructions.

Both the temples and shrines can appear similar.  That is in part due to the many years of Buddhism and Shintoism coexisting side by side together in Japan.  However, simply put there is a good rule of thumb to tell the two apart. Buddist temples mostly tend to be austere and modest.  Shinto shrines tend to be more colorful. The same can be said, as much as any general statement, concerning the dress of the monks.  If the monk is dressed modestly, there is a good chance you are in a Buddist temple. If the priest is dressed a little showy or flashy, you will then know you are probably at a Shinto shrine.  When in doubt, ask! I was surprised by how many people had a basic working knowledge of English.  

Please remember these places are places of worship.

Please remember these places are places of worship.

I recommend visiting a few Buddest temples and Shinto shrines in Tokyo.  Of course there are big ones that you should definitely visit such as the Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji.  However, be aware that there are so many smaller ones tucked away in neighborhoods and even in office parks that you could visit as you walk through an area.  You’ll find more tourists than not at the big temples and shrines just like any other “must see” spot. You’ll find everyday people living in Tokyo when you visit the smaller ones.  I found that the smaller temples, shrines, and places of worship reminded me that these religions are still being practiced right now. I also felt just a little more connected to the city as a whole after visiting them.

I’ve never understood why you would take a picture of the artwork.

I’ve never understood why you would take a picture of the artwork.

5. Visit a Museum

Often visiting a museum is a good way to ease into gaining a different perspective of the place you spent so much time and money to visit and explore.  Tokyo is no different. I had time to explore one museum while I was in Tokyo. I chose to visit Tokyo’s National Museum of Modern Art. The museum had a temporary exhibit detailing the life and work of the famous figure in Japanese animation, Takahata Isao.  It was also within walking distance, albeit a long walk, from the hotel where I was staying at the time. The exhibit was very detailed. I was able to follow along with as much as the information as I wanted to due to the inexpensive English speaking audio guide that I rented.  Without that guide I would of been lost and missed much of the meaning and purpose behind the exhibit. I imagine that exhibit wasn’t so much for tourists. I don’t remember seeing another tourist in the temporary exhibit. The museum itself was a great way to avoid the heat of the day while waiting for my hotel room to be ready.  Aside from being an interesting place to learn about Japanese modern art and modern animation the museum had AC. On hot August days in Tokyo, air conditioning is a life saver. I don’t think you necessarily need to visit the same museum I did or a lot of them, but I do recommend working one or two stops at a museum into your Tokyo visit. 

Please stay behind the yellow paint.

Please stay behind the yellow paint.

6. Subway and Taxis

There are so many ways to get around the city of Tokyo.  Two ways that I think everyone should at least experience once are using the subway system and riding in a taxi.  I can hear it now - thousands of budget travelers crying out in anger at the thought of paying for a taxi in Tokyo.  Just wait, we’ll get to that.

First, I have to be honest and mention that I only used the subway system once.  I preferred to walk most of the time I was in Tokyo. During my one time using the subway system it was a straight shot with no changes.  I was also with a local tour guide that knew the area and route very well. That being said I did meet several people and meet some tours in and around the different subway stations since they are often the easiest places to meet up with people.  I found the subway stations and the one car that I was in to be cleaner and quieter than any metro or subway that I had used in the United States and even frankly some European countries too. I heard from some of my counterparts that I met while in Tokyo that once you understand how to read the subway maps and the numbering system that using the subway there isn’t too difficult.

Second, I used a few taxis to get around in Tokyo.  Mostly this was because the whole trip was a totally unplanned last minute affair.  They’re as simple as asking your front desk at the hotel to call a taxi. Most of the time the driver came into the lobby to find me.  More often than not the driver also spoke at least some English. When the driver didn’t, it was as simple as showing the driver the address on my phone.  But that isn’t why I recommend trying a taxi in Tokyo at least once. If you’re thinking I’m going to recommend using a taxi to and from the airport you’ve clearly not seen the distance between the airports and most of the city.  There’s much cheaper options like the subway, bus, and shared van transfers. No, the reason why I think you should give a taxi ride a shot for a short ride is to experience the white glove service, doors that the driver can open and close without leaving his or her seat, the ads running on TV's inside the vehicle, and the knowledge of the area.  Every driver I met was incredibly helpful in every sense of the word. I do, however, think the average person traveling alone shouldn’t use this method more than once just to get the experience unless money is no object. I’d recommend one way to make this method more economical is to split the fare four ways. That being said, if you want to stay under budget avoid using this method of travel any more than when it is absolutely necessary.

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7. Food and Drinks

Contrary to what most of my friends think, Japanese food is so much more than sushi.  I am not a culinary expert, nor do I pretend to be; however, I hope this list of food to try will help get you started exploring Tokyo one meal at a time.

Be sure to push the chicken down to ensure it cooks.

Be sure to push the chicken down to ensure it cooks.

Chanko Hot Pot

The Chanko hot pot that I tried was served like a stew over a fire.  The biggest thing to remember is to make sure you push the meat down into the boiling broth to ensure it is cooked.  I did this until the fire went out which didn’t take more than a few minutes. The dish came with tofu skin and some noodles that I added to the stew like concoction to absorb some of the taste of the delicious broth.  Half the fun of this meal was trying to eat it with chopsticks and sharing the struggle with the other tourists at my table. The other half was seeing real sumo wrestlers nearby in the restaurant. Apparently the Chanko hot pot is a favorite dish of those practicing sumo.

Don’t be afraid to just point at the picture when you’re ordering.

Don’t be afraid to just point at the picture when you’re ordering.

Sushi

Most Americans that I know upon finding out that I didn’t eat the sushi in Tokyo every day acted as if I had committed a sin.  The sushi was great and I absolutely enjoyed the experience. I highly recommend it. However, to eat only sushi is to lose out on so many other culinary experiences, especially if you are tight on time.  Oh, and be aware of the sushi with wasabi already rolled inside it. That was a fun surprise the first time I took an unsuspecting bite.

This food was meant for sharing.

This food was meant for sharing.

Food on a stick

I like the many options available with this type of dish and being able to easily share the food with others.  I found it to be a great option when I wanted to share a meal and maybe a couple beers. Oh and definitely try these foods with soy sauce.

You have to try Ramen while you’re in Japan.

You have to try Ramen while you’re in Japan.

Ramen

The ramen in Japan is nothing like the cheap stuff you find in packages in America.  I tried some ramen with beef and veggies in a little mom and pop place. There isn’t much to say other than please give it a try.  I hope that you enjoy your ramen experience as much as I enjoyed mine!

Trying this food is an absolute must for any foodie.

Trying this food is an absolute must for any foodie.

Okonomiyaki

Half the fun of trying this savory pancake is watching it made on a hot plate right in front of you.  That is unless you are daring enough to make your own. Personally, I have no idea what I’m doing when cooking at home and wouldn’t dare show off my lack of skills in public.  However, if that’s something you’re into then this could make for a fun activity and meal. I was shown two different versions of the dish. The first and older version is more runny.  The second and newer version is similar in shape to a pancake that I’m used to at home. However, it’s really like a pancake on steroids with all the ingredients and sauce that the chef adds.  If there is one food that I miss from Tokyo, this is it. I’d eat it every day if I had the chance.

711 will save you a ton of money while still providing good food.

711 will save you a ton of money while still providing good food.

711 Food

Imagine a world where 711 has tasty food for on the go and so much more.  That magical place is real and it is in Tokyo. 711 is a great option for budget travelers, families, or just about anyone looking for a good inexpensive lunch for their next adventure around town.  There are so many 711’s that with a tiny amount of thinking beforehand you might not even need to pack a lunch. For my American readers think Starbucks in the 90’s and early 2000’s. The 711’s are everywhere in Tokyo.

One of the best named products that I’ve ever come across.

One of the best named products that I’ve ever come across.

Vending Machine Drinks

The drink vending machines are plentiful around Tokyo.  The selection will vary, but overall they’re super useful for those hot summer days when you need a drink.  I personally stuck to water most of the time, but if you want to play the game of guessing what you are about to buy, then try your hand at the other selections to choose from.  Be aware that some drinks can be served hot and others are cold. In a pinch you can even find vending machines with coffee or hot tea for those mornings you need a little help moving faster!

Have a Drink at Golden Gai

I won’t dare try to estimate the number of bars in this area.  There are so many places to try out in this small area. Every single one that I saw or went into was small, so this isn’t a place for those that don’t enjoy small spaces or talking with others over a drink.  Some places wanted a cover charge and others didn’t. Some were okay with anyone coming in and others were not. Some establishments had a bartender that spoke English while others did not. If you aren’t enjoying the first bar that you stop at, then just move on into another one.  You won’t have a problem finding somewhere to share a drink with a travel partner or meet new friends.  

Half the fun of the nightlife is just exploring.

Half the fun of the nightlife is just exploring.

However, I must warn you that this is not a place to let your guard down fully.  I never felt unsafe, but I must tell everyone that reads this that there are some unsavory things going on behind the scenes in this area.  I had a run in with one of the stereotypical tourist traps while exploring this area. A very friendly black man claiming to be from somewhere approached me in the dark near one of the entrances to Golden Gai telling me, in a noticeable accent, that he was a scout for a nearby bar.  He pointed behind him away from Golden Gai and explained that there were many girls and good beer there. Once I understood what he was getting at I quickly said no, thank you. He politely, but firmly pressed me to follow him. He then relented when it was clear that I had no intention of going.  In my mind this is a situation that could easily lead to being the subject of a 60 Minutes TV piece and a cautionary tale for others. Following someone in that kind of situation could easily turn into putting yourself into a dangerous and illegal situation. Thankfully, it happened in public, I was completely sober, had witnesses, and I’m at least a little smart when it comes to these situations.  My motto has always been that if I wouldn’t do it in my hometown, then why on earth would I do it someone else’s town, especially when I can’t read or speak the language. Please do not let this experience keep you from exploring this area. Just be smart, be aware of your surroundings, travel in a group if you are with people, and make good decisions. Plus remember you didn’t travel all the way to Japan to get roaring drunk.  You could have stayed at home and done that for a lot cheaper.

It may be difficult for a first time buyer to make a decision with all these options.

It may be difficult for a first time buyer to make a decision with all these options.

9. Chopstick Shopping

A local tour guide once told me that for the Japanese shopping for chopsticks is like shopping for the right pair of sneakers.  Everyone in the household has at least a pair of their own and each of them must be tried on before purchasing. He then proceeded to demonstrate how locals will try out their chopsticks by holding them in his hand and manipulating the chopsticks and switching pairs until he found some that felt comfortable.   He then said to me that many will go to the store or a few stores to find just the right pair of chopsticks for them. With so many options on just the wall behind him in this one small store on a side street in Tokyo, I had trouble fathoming the seemingly endless options that must be available in such a massive city.

Sleeping in a capsule hotel is a good way to save money while visiting Tokyo, but it isn’t for those who don’t like small places.

Sleeping in a capsule hotel is a good way to save money while visiting Tokyo, but it isn’t for those who don’t like small places.

10. Stay in a Capsule Hotel or Business Hotel

I highly recommend trying at least one night in a capsule hotel while you are visiting Tokyo.  If you are at all unsure how you will do in such a small place while you’re trying to sleep, but still want to give it a shot then I have a specific recommendation for you.  Try Nine Hours if you are flying in or out of Narita airport (Tokyo’s main international arrival and departure airport) on a late or early flight. The capsule hotel is at the airport itself, but outside of the secure area.  It was very clean with a helpful and friendly staff.

There is just enough room to move side to side and roll over.

There is just enough room to move side to side and roll over.

Sleeping in capsule is a bit different than having your own place.  I found it to be more like a mix between an upscale gym locker room and a hostel.  In my experience at Nine Hours the sexes are split up at the moment they complete check in at the front desk by entering the hotel via two different doors on two different sides of the lobby.  Obviously, I can’t speak for the ladies’ side, but I bet it is a similar experience. Once you go through the door to the males only area you enter into a dark room where you return items like your slippers and sleep shirt at the end of your stay.  Once the door to the outside closes you open the door to the room with lockers. Further in the back is an area with trash cans and recycling bins with the toilets, sinks, and showers beyond that. You can miss the door to the capsules across from the trash cans and recycling bins if you aren’t paying attention.  By the way, once you leave the locker area you should be wearing your slippers. No shoes please. It really helps the place stay cleaner.

Your capsule number is also your locker assignment.

Your capsule number is also your locker assignment.

You might be wondering how you know which locker and capsule are yours during your stay.  They give you a key to open your locker with your number attached. Each capsule is clearly marked with a number.  All you have to do is find your number and leave your slippers in front of your capsule. I’m not going to lie to you - a capsule is probably about the size of a twin sized bed.   I’m not the tallest person in the world, but I had enough room to stretch out. The walls and ceiling around the bed were far enough apart that I could stretch my arms out above me and not touch the ceiling unless I was trying to do so.  The walls also had cubby holes on either side of the bed, but they weren’t able to store much more than some glasses, a watch, a cell phone, and a charger. Yes, there was an outlet inside the capsule itself. There was even a speaker that played relaxing tones with a volume control.  I found that it helped with the quiet noise of people moving around in their capsules or walking past. I could hear the other guests mostly because there was only a thin flap that covered the entry to my capsule. I think just about the only thing that flap really did was keep the AC from getting into my capsule in enough quality to feel comfortable.

Every business hotel that I stayed in came with disposable slippers and a robe to borrow.

Every business hotel that I stayed in came with disposable slippers and a robe to borrow.

Now, if you have a bit more money to spend on a place to sleep or the idea of sleeping in a midsize coffin isn’t for you, but you don’t want to spend your whole budget on a place to lay down at night then I have just the type of place for you.  Try a business hotel. They’re everywhere in Japan and each chain is a little different, but every one of them that I tried were clean with helpful and friendly staff. One of them even had its own bathhouse for guests. The accommodations will be small, but you will typically have a bed, a tv, your own bathroom and shower, a desk or somewhere to sit, and somewhere to hang a couple articles or clothing.  Most of the ones I stayed at required you deposit your hotel card in a specific slot to have the air conditioning and lights work. However, someone I don’t want to name any names haha, may or may not have figured out that any card will fit and work in the regular slots and in a pinch for the thin deep rectangular slots nail clippers will work. Tricks like this can save you if you want the room to be cool when you return or you’re like me and prone to walk out the self locking hotel room door only to realize that you left your key inside.  The business hotels really are a great option. I highly recommend giving one a shot. 


A little research before your trip could save you money and time later.

A little research before your trip could save you money and time later.

The following link is an Amazon affiliate link.

Lonely Planet’s Discover Tokyo: https://amzn.to/2W22DEy


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