This is where I share stories, lessons, and advice from my travels around the world.

Japan Thomas Duffey Japan Thomas Duffey

Day Trip to Nikko, Japan

I highly recommend taking time to visit Nikko during your stay in Japan. It is worth at least one day to see the impressive waterfalls and visit the shrines. It is truly one of the really beautiful areas of the country and within a reasonable driving distance from Tokyo.

I highly recommend taking time to visit Nikko during your stay in Japan. It is worth at least one day to see the impressive waterfalls and visit the shrines. It is truly one of the really beautiful areas of the country and within a reasonable driving distance from Tokyo. Here are some important points to consider for your visit there.

It’s hard to get this view on a tour bus.

It’s hard to get this view on a tour bus.

Transportation to Nikko from Tokyo

Transportation is always a major consideration for any trip.  An important cost issue when taking a tour in Japan is the cost of the transportation and of having a tour guide to help explain what you are seeing.  Questions such as how will you get to see what you want to see and whether you would like or need a guide are important factors to decide on. Unless you are renting a car or paying for a private use vehicle with a driver, then the best ways to travel to places like Nikko are going by either a tour bus or by booking a semi-private vehicle.  The tour bus option usually comes with one to two guides, covers any basic entry fees, and is often quite reasonably priced. As you might expect, the semi-private vehicle costs more than taking the tour bus. The semi-private vehicle’s driver is usually just that, a driver, not a tour guide. You might luck out and get a driver that doubles as a tour guide, however that could cause the cost of the semi-private vehicle to go up.  There are several pluses to using a semi-private vehicle, but using one does make your excursion cost more. The cost difference between these two transportation options can range from as little as $50.00 to over $200.00 or more depending on where you are trying to go and how long you plan on being at the location(s).

Carefully considering the costs of an experience for a budget traveler is important, but it is always good to balance the cost of an experience against the cost of the actual execution of obtaining that experience.  Always remember you travel a long way to see and experience different places and cultures, so keep in mind that it is important to know what you can physically handle at any time. Think about how the cost of what you do affects the experience you are aiming to achieve.  

Remember when you consider the cost of the tour bus to include the cost you will pay to get yourself to the bus designated pick-up location and on your return the cost of getting from the drop-off points to your hotel or place you are staying in.  Japanese taxis are not cheap, but can take you to the exact pickup location you need to be at to meet your big bus tour operator. Subways are another option, but using them requires more pre-planning to determine: which line(s) to use; where the closest station is to the pick up location; and how long it will take to walk from the subway station to the pick up location.

A driver that doubles as a tour guide can be a good deal.

A driver that doubles as a tour guide can be a good deal.


Comfort vs cost equation considerations

When paying for a private or semi-private (meaning shared with a few others) van you are essentially paying for more personal space, more comfortable seats, and a driver that is usually more willing to be a bit more flexible with time management at the locations you will be visiting.  The van itself will also naturally be able to park in areas where a tour bus could never park. So sometimes from a van you will have less of a walk to the location from the parking lot. In addition, the private or semi-private vehicle cost may or may not include the admission fees. Be sure to check on whether or not these are included.  In a bus tour most attraction’s admission fees are included in the price of the bus excursion.

Taking a big bus tour to visit locations definitely helps save some money on the price of your sightseeing and experiences in Japan.  You’ll also be more than likely have a dedicated tour guide or maybe two for your whole tour group. In Japan, a tour guide can be handy when it comes to explaining information about what you are visiting or when the next chance to obtain food is or where is the nearest restroom.

The essential question that you have to ask yourself is this: does the money I’ll save by being on a tour bus and having a tour guide outweigh the time savings and cost of being picked up and dropped off at your hotel and having much more comfortable seats?  When considering bus versus smaller vehicle tours, I recommend taking into account things such as do you have a family with small children or anyone with mobility issues. If either of those situations apply to you, you might prefer using a semi private or private van tour provider.  A smaller vehicle can mean more flexibility to your tour day. A smaller vehicle means you are sharing your tour experience with fewer people which in turn usually means it can be quicker to get to a site, into the actual site, and back out again. Also, if you want to linger at a particular location or a portion of it, then you can usually do so without feeling rushed or being left behind by your tour group.  You can also often do some adjusting regarding how long you visit somewhere or at what time you need to leave Nikko to return to Tokyo with your driver.   

One plus to taking a big bus tour can be the opportunity to meet other people interested in seeing the same things as you.  As a solo traveler, I have found a tour bus sometimes gives you a chance to meet and talk with people with similar interests about their travel experiences and tips.  In the past, it has even worked out that I could meet up with someone at another time or day for lunch or dinner. It can be a nice change to not eat solo every so often on your trip.  


When to go to Nikko

It’s not like you can’t visit this place year round, but there are times of year that you might prefer over others.  I visited the Nikko area in August. It was warm with great weather for my trip there. If your only travel availability is during the summer, then I recommend going on any day with nice weather.  However, Nikko is very popular during autumn because of the changing colors of the leaves. When I went in August there were other tourists there, but most places that I visited in Nikko were not completely overrun with tourists.  The only exception to that was the Toshogu Shrine. That place was crawling with tourists. From everything I have heard about it, it is very popular and very beautiful throughout the year. Just be aware that if you are headed to Nikko in autumn, to be prepared for the large crowds also trying to see waterfalls surrounded by the autumn colors.

Kegon Falls almost seems unreal at first.

Kegon Falls almost seems unreal at first.

See the waterfalls!

The Kegon Falls are listed on Japan’s top 100 waterfalls for a reason.  This waterfall is thought to be one of the top three Japanese most beautiful waterfalls.  Kegon Falls is an almost 100 meter waterfall. This high waterfall is the only exit for the waters of Lake Chuzenji and as such has a pretty impressive waterflow.  It is a popular place to view autumn colors, especially toward the end of October; however, viewing Kegon Falls is still a powerful sight to behold during the summer.  A fun fact to know is that during most winters, Kegon Falls actually freezes almost completely solid. There is a free platform to view the falls, but I highly recommend taking the 100 meter deep elevator which does have an admission charge to get the best view of the falls.  The cost for the elevator to the viewing platform is not much, but the view is much more impressive from the platform accessed through the elevator. For a nice lightweight and easy to carry souvenir of your visit to the Falls use some of your Japanese yen to buy a pin with the waterfall on it.

The pin is inexpensive and easy to bring home as a souvenir.

The pin is inexpensive and easy to bring home as a souvenir.

The Ryuzu Falls Park is a great place to soak in the ambience of the area.

The Ryuzu Falls Park is a great place to soak in the ambience of the area.

The Ryuzu Falls Park is located near Lake Chuzenji.  It has a walking path alongside the length of the approximately 210 meter falls.  There is a gain or loss of about 60 meters, so it is somewhat steep to climb up or walk down.  When you are standing at the top of the falls you are 1,355 meters above sea level. I visited the Ryuzu Cascade Terrace during the summer, but I bet the best time to visit these falls would be during autumn.  The path and waterfall is lined with trees. There is a parking lot at the top of the cascades and at the bottom. I recommend that you start at the top and walk down. There is also a shop at the bottom for souvenirs and food.

The Toshogu Shrine is a popular tourist stop.

The Toshogu Shrine is a popular tourist stop.

Visit Toshogu Shrine

The Toshogu Shrine is a popular stop among tourists visiting the area.  Do not be surprised if the place is packed with people. The shrine’s complex is very big and demands a large amount of your day if you wish to explore every part of it.  I recommend planning on arriving early in the day or later in the afternoon. The crowds at the Toshogu Shrine during the midday were too large to allow for comfortable exploration of the whole shrine area.

The Toshogu Shrine contains elements of both Shinto and Buddhism.  This shrine is actually the final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate.  The Tokugawa Shogunate ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868. In this shrine, there are more than a half dozen separate buildings.  One of the most impressive to see is the Yomeimon Gate. This gate is a very ornate structure. It features very intricate decorations and many different architectural features.

Many of the shrine’s buildings are covered with elaborate wood carvings and gold leaf.  An interesting wood carving on one of the shrine buildings depicts the famous three monkeys of See no evil, Speak no evil, and Hear no evil.  Gold leaf is used throughout this shrine. The use of so much gold leaf means this shrine looks quite elaborate. Its use is unusual as most Japanese shrines are much simpler.   

The Futarasan Shrine is a beautiful place to explore.

The Futarasan Shrine is a beautiful place to explore.

Visit Futarasan Shrine

The Futarasan Shrine is a much simpler shrine than the Toshogu Shrine.  Futarasan Shrine honors the three deities of Nikko’s sacred mountains: Mount Nantai; Mount Nyoho; and Mount Taro.  This shrine is very ancient having been founded in 782. Its founder was Shodo Shonin, the Buddist monk who introduced Buddhism to Nikko.  But, the shrine is actually a Shinto shrine. The grounds of this shrine contain several sacred cedar trees. These trees are thought to be around 1000 years old.  It is said that these tall ancient trees stretch up toward heaven. When you look up at them, it is easy to believe that since they are so tall. There is a beautiful main worship hall (Honden) and several other smaller shrine rooms. Behind the shrine itself is a pleasant garden to stroll through and enjoy seeing an outdoor Japanese garden.

The Futarasan Shrine is a lot less crowded than those in Tokyo.

The Futarasan Shrine is a lot less crowded than those in Tokyo.

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Iceland, Iceland Road Trip Thomas Duffey Iceland, Iceland Road Trip Thomas Duffey

Eight Places to Explore on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

 I recommend going to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula whenever you are able to go. It is simply an incredible place full of beautiful scenery.  Be prepared for somewhat chilly weather and the strong winds, but make sure you get out and see this place. One great bonus to visiting here is it is hard to take a bad photo here due to the interesting natural formations.  In addition, there are so many hiking opportunities, each of which offers a memorable vista, that it can be hard to choose so I recommend spending as much time as you are able to do so on the Peninsula.

Welcome to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula!

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a landscape photographer’s dream.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a landscape photographer’s dream.

Be aware that pretty much all of the places I am reviewing will be very popular with tourists on any day with nice weather.  I visited Iceland in March and the weather then was mostly rather nice, but still a bit chilly. The mountains still had some snow on them and looked very beautiful.  The wind can be a little strong. On several occasions I had trouble either opening or closing my rental car’s door. You’ll see signs in Iceland in some areas warning you about the wind.  The wind in Iceland can be no joke, but in most cases nothing to be worried about.

To take the fullest advantage of your time in Snaefellsnes, I recommend staying somewhere on the peninsula if at all possible.  I also recommend staying for a couple nights if you can. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t have the time to do that during my stay in Iceland.  However, I was able to make a day trip into the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. When I say day trip, I mean that I left at sunrise and got back to my hotel at sunset.  Driving from the Fossatún Country Hotel to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, around the peninsula, stopping at various places, and driving back to the hotel took an entire day.  It made for a lovely day of seeing new places, snapping some photos, and exploring Iceland. However, there were several times when I had to decide to skip something in order to see something else or to quickly rush through a place.  If at all possible, I recommend the Snæfellsnes Peninsula be part of your touring plan for one great Icelandic day or two!

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The following are my eight places that I recommend to explore on the peninsula.  These eight places offer some of the best sights of the Peninsula. Seeing them offers you a great experience for one of your days while in Iceland.  There are many more places to see, but if you’re tight on time then definitely consider checking out these eight stops.

I still don’t understand how this is comfortable.

I still don’t understand how this is comfortable.

Ytri Tunga

If you are driving from the south, Ytri Tunga will be on your left on the coast.  You can be forgiven for missing the sign due to being distracted by the sight of the beautiful mountains on the other side of the road.  After all, the sign for Ytri Tunga is relatively small, easy to miss, and all the natural beauty of the area does distract you. This is a good spot to see seals resting on rocks.  I hope you are as lucky as I was on my visit. I couldn’t get too close out of respect for their right to be undisturbed, but my telephoto lens did let me zoom in on them for a closer look.  I could see their cute faces as they did what appeared to be seal yoga on the rocks. If you decide to get closer to take a photo, be careful that you do not disturb them. If you’re affecting their behavior in any way, you are too close.  Also, I must warn you that this is a place that some big bus tours can and do stop to let tourists get out and look. You’ll know when that happens because there will be a flood of tourists walking around; however, the busses did not stay for too long while I was there.  When the flood of tourists left for their next stop, the crowd size went way down and I felt some relative peace and quiet once again. The place is wonderful even with all the tourists, but it takes on a whole ‘nother level of beauty when it’s just you, a few seals, the rocks, and the ocean tide rolling in.

The black church stands in stark contrast to the colorful mountains behind it.

The black church stands in stark contrast to the colorful mountains behind it.

Búðakirkja or The Black Church of Búðir

On the southern coast of the peninsula is the Black Church of Búðir.  The Black Church has an interesting story.  The legend is the church’s location was chosen when an old woman suggested making a man spin in circles until he became dazed.  The man shot three arrows into the air and where the third arrow landed was to be the church’s location. So that is where Bent Lárusson built the church in 1703.  Unfortunately that church rotted away.  The church was rebuilt in 1848 by Steinunn Sveninsdóttir after she had a dream in which Bent Lárusson asked her to rebuilt it.  In 1984 the church was moved to its present location and renovated to ensure it was as it was in 1848.  It and its historic graveyard sit in a pretty isolated spot. The Black Church is indeed painted black which really makes it stand out from its natural surroundings.  It is a great place for a photo stop since the church makes a contrast against the glacier and the mountain ridge backdrop. There is a nice and easy hiking area just past the church.  There are also a couple really good places to stop along the path and take some photos of the ocean and mountains, have a picnic, enjoy the vistas, or do something a bit more serious.

She said yes! I got to be the first person to congratulate them.

She said yes! I got to be the first person to congratulate them.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula can make you feel small.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula can make you feel small.

Rauðfeldsgjá

My discovery of Rauðfeldsgjá was completely accidental.  I stopped the car at a parking lot on the side of the road after seeing the lot was halfway full and that people were walking up a snowy path to enter what looked like from a distance to be a cave.  I found a parking spot, grabbed my daypack along with my camera gear and then started up the snowy path. After almost falling twice due to slippery conditions, I arrived at the opening in the mountain.  What I found there was not a cave at all. It was a frozen waterfall that some were poking their heads in to look at and others were climbing. It didn’t look too bad, so I thought what could be the harm in climbing up a bit.  I had no doubt that there would be some cool images to capture along the way.

At the base of the frozen waterfall I met a guy from the States that had the same idea.  We both started to climb with our cameras strapped to us. At that point, the frozen waterfall was nowhere near vertical, but rather more of steep incline that one could hike up while using hands as an added extra point of contact for stability.  The process wasn’t fast, but not entirely slow. He was in the lead and I followed putting my hands and feet where he had just been as we hiked up the ice. It wasn’t long before we rounded the first bend. The path was pretty well laid for us by those that must of made a similar journey earlier in the day or in the days before.  Once I rounded the first bend, I saw before me a gap on the left side of the ice about the width of an average adult. There was no real way of telling how far down this gap running the length of the frozen waterfall went. I followed that discovery with seeing that there was another gap in the ice ahead of me that created a ledge.  To get to that ledge on the other side of this second gap one must use their hands to pull themselves up to it in order to continue the adventure.

At that moment I thought to myself that a smart person would have told the other guy that was enough and turned back.  I fully admit that my next decision was not my brightest moment. I hadn’t truly gone far, could easily get myself up there, and wanted at least one good image from the experience, so I continued on after this person that I had only met just a few minutes previously.  After clearing the gap, he and I preceded forward and upward. Next, the ice took almost a sharp right turn and became even more steep. Thankfully, there were enough dents left in the ice by those who had scaled it before that I could use them to climb using my hands and feet.  However, by this time I had lost my climbing partner due to my inability to keep pace with him and almost falling. I finally realized that I was in effect not getting anything worth seeing or photographing and using such a large amount of time to get effectively nothing worthwhile.  So I decided it was time to turn back.

It’s a long way back down.

It’s a long way back down.

It was at this point in my climb that I turned around and looked down.  I had forgotten one simple rule of climbing or hiking in general: the ascent is only half the trip.  I now was forced to confront the very real problem of how to get back down a somewhat dramatic drop of solid ice with hiking shoes that had a good grip, but were not made for this sort of climbing.  As I looked down, I saw the gap between the ice and the wall of stone down at the turn just after the ledge of the elevated area of ice was about forty feet below me. My lack of any alternatives were apparent at that moment, so I decided to make a slow go of it downward.  The process of descending was a time consuming affair filled with a couple minor slips for at least the first fifteen feet or so. Then at some point the ice gave way where I had just eased my full weight. What followed was what I can only describe as a blur as I slid on my butt down the frozen waterfall rounding the turn.  I barely missed falling through the gap between the ice and stone on what was now my right side and sliding over the ledge that I had only recently climbed over. By mere inches, I also missed crashing into a young woman from Bavaria waiting for her friends. As she looked down at me with just as much amazement as I was stunned, the only thing I could think to say was “What’s up?”  After speaking with her and her friends for a moment while trying to catch my breath and compose myself, I made the small leap down to the ice on the lower platform. Then I thankfully made my way down the last bit of ice and out onto the slippery path that led me to my car. It wasn’t until when I got back later that night that I realized my pants had a hole in them clean through to my underwear from where I had slid.

Walking around Arnarstapi is like walking in a painting.

Walking around Arnarstapi is like walking in a painting.

Arnarstapi

Arnarstapi is a small town on the southern part of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  The town is at least a couple hours from Reykjavik. You could get up really early and drive from the capital, but an alternative would be to consider using Arnarstapi as a base to explore the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  When you arrive in town, look for a statue of a troll made out of rocks. Park your car nearby and hit the trails directly behind the troll. You’ll be walking toward the sea. As you get closer to the ocean you should see a somewhat small viewing platform which allows one to get a better look at the coast.  During this hike you will stroll along the coast seeing how the ocean over time has shaped the rocky coastline into something unusual and beautiful. As you follow the path you will likely run into the famous arch rock that everyone loves to photograph. It’s called Gatklettur. Please respect the rope and sign telling you to stay back from the edge overlooking Gatklettur.  I saw a few people ignore the rope and get very close to edge of the cliff. One wrong step or an unexpected gust of wind could of changed their day completely. I can’t imagine anyone that would want to end their vacation in Iceland by falling off a cliff just to get a photograph. Also, there is a trail that runs between Arnarstapi and nearby Hellnar. It’s a wonderful walk with even more amazing views.  It’s definitely worth the time and effort. One thing you realize as you explore this area is this isn’t a place to rush. The area around Arnarstapi is a great place to take it slow and enjoy the area’s natural beauty. I highly recommend doing just that.

I really enjoyed driving around Snæfellsjökull National Park.

I really enjoyed driving around Snæfellsjökull National Park.

Snæfellsjökull National Park

This excellent national park is fairly new as it was established on June 28, 2001. Snæfellsjökull glacier lies within the national park.  The glacier is thought to be one of the seven great energy centers of the earth. I couldn’t actually feel that, but I did enjoy driving through the area as it is simply a beautiful drive.  The Gestastofa Visitor Center found inside the park contains some well presented displays and provides background about what you can see and do in the park. You’ll be able to find detailed information there about the interesting geology of the area.  Visitor Center hours are generally 10 AM to 5 PM from late April through October and 11 AM to 4 PM Monday to Friday the rest of the year. They may be closed during Christmas week and New Year’s Day. Check their website for up to date information at https://ust.is/snaefellsjokull-national-park/

The Malarrif Lighthouse offers an interesting landscape to explore.

The Malarrif Lighthouse offers an interesting landscape to explore.

Malarrif Lighthouse

The Malarrif Lighthouse was first built in 1917 and then rebuilt in 1946.  To get to the Malarrif Lighthouse take the path from the National Park’s visitor center.  It is a white lighthouse just a short walk away. The lighthouse was locked when I was there.  I don’t think you can go inside. However, I was the only one there. I got to enjoy the breeze coming in off the ocean, the views, and the peace and quiet all to myself as I explored the area around the lighthouse.  The grounds around the lighthouse are made of lava formations which are quite unusual. The view of the ocean and the whole area around the lighthouse is gorgeous.

Places like Londramgar prove that nature is art. The whole place feels like something out of a painting.

Places like Londramgar prove that nature is art. The whole place feels like something out of a painting.

Londrangar

At Londrangar are two ancient volcanic basalt stacks or pillars.  Erosion over the centuries has left these two sticking up high in the air on the edge of the sea.  The tallest one sticks up 75 meters or 246 feet. The shorter pillar is 61 meters high or 200 feet.  The pillars are often used by puffins to nest on during warmer weather. There is a parking lot nearby where you can leave your car to go see the pillars.  You can get closer to the structures, but the view of the landscape from afar was beautiful enough for me. Be aware there can be a strong wind on the pathways in this area.  Anywhere near the beach in Iceland you should be wary of the wind and waves as they can be quite strong and unexpected at times.

You don’t visit Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss to be alone.

You don’t visit Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss to be alone.

Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss

It is said that Kirkjufell is the most photographed mountain in all of Iceland.  It will certainly feel that way when you try to find a parking spot or a place to take a photograph of the mountain.  Both Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss use the same small parking lot. Kirkjufell means Church Mountain because it supposedly resembles a church steeple.  It rises upwards to around 1,519 feet and makes for a great stop to take photographs. Within an easy walking distance from Kirkjufell is the Kirkjufellsfoss which means Church Mountain Waterfall.  It is an incredibly quick walk to get to a spot where you can take the iconic photograph with Kirkjufellsfoss in the foreground and Kirkjufell in the background. However, it might not be so quick to wait your turn to take a photo if one of the tour buses just let loose a wave of tourists.  

On a day with nice weather it can be difficult to capture an image of the mountain without other tourists in it.  That is especially the case if you’re trying to incorporate Kirkjufellsfoss or the waterfall into the foreground of your image.  I recommend either incorporating the other tourists into your composition something akin to street photography or using software to remove the other people in post processing.  Kirkjufell is popular, but I noticed most tourists don’t spend too much time at this stop before they are back on the road to the next “must see” on their list. I recommend spending a few extra minutes here and just enjoying the view.  Also, very few people turned around to really notice the scenic mountains that are behind you when you are facing Kirkjufell. This whole area is stunningly beautiful and it deserves at least a bit of your time.

There is just so much to explore on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

There is just so much to explore on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

I have only included a small portion of the many possible things to do and see while visiting the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  I recommend going to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula whenever you are able to go. It is simply an incredible place full of beautiful scenery.  Be prepared for somewhat chilly weather and the strong winds, but make sure you get out and see this place. One great bonus to visiting here is it is hard to take a bad photo here due to the interesting natural formations.  In addition, there are so many hiking opportunities, each of which offers a memorable vista, that it can be hard to choose so I recommend spending as much time as you are able to do so on the Peninsula.


A good guide book is worth the cost.

A good guide book is worth the cost.


The following link is an Amazon affiliate link.

Lonely Planet’s Iceland: https://amzn.to/2W23Z26


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Iceland Road Trip, Iceland Thomas Duffey Iceland Road Trip, Iceland Thomas Duffey

Road Trip Advice For Iceland

When visiting Iceland, many people plan a driving trip around the country.  It is the best way, as well as often the only way, to see many of Iceland’s best sights.  I’ve included here some of the best tips that I found helpful on my recent trip to Iceland.

Stay focused on the road and not the beautiful scenery.

Stay focused on the road and not the beautiful scenery.

When visiting Iceland, many people plan a driving trip around the country.  It is the best way, as well as often the only way, to see many of Iceland’s best sights.  I’ve included here some of the tips that I found helpful on my recent trip to Iceland.

Consider these two planning resources.

  1. Purchase a guidebook to help you as the guidebook puts all the important bits and pieces of Iceland information into one easily accessible place (I prefer Lonely Planet).

  2. Check out https://www.inspiredbyiceland.com/ for a good overall visitor’s guide to Iceland. It has a good section on driving in Iceland along with other websites to visit regarding such information as weather conditions.

  3. Use http://www.road.is for relatively up to date road conditions with helpful webcams.

Driving is an amazing way to see and experience Iceland.

Driving is an amazing way to see and experience Iceland.

Iceland Tips.  

1.   You can easily see Þingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss on the Golden Circle during one day of driving.

2.  Rent your car at the Reykjavik airport.  You can grab a free shuttle from the airport to your car rental company.  Honestly, if you don’t have many bags or people with you, you can walk from the airport to most of them.  Either way, the rental car agencies are not far from the airport.

Some of the back roads can be a bit narrow.

Some of the back roads can be a bit narrow.

Iceland Driving Advice.

  1. Remember you drive on the right side of the road in Iceland (just as in the US, Austria, France, Spain, Switzerland, and many other countries.)

  2. You can use your American driver’s license to drive in Iceland. Also, Canadian and countries of the European Economic Area (EEA) driver’s licenses are alright to use for driving in Iceland.  Other licenses are alright to use as long as on the license itself it includes: license number, holder’s photograph, valid date, and is printed in Latin characters All others will need to get an International Driver’s License to drive in Iceland.  Also note: the minimum age to drive in Iceland is 20 and you must have held a full (not restricted) license for at least one year.

  3. Iceland car rentals require a valid driver’s license, a passport, and a credit card.

  4. Do NOT drink and drive. Iceland takes drinking and driving very seriously. The blood alcohol test level is low at .05%. The penalties for DUI/DWI are stiff. The base fine for a first offense is about 70,000  Kronur or $625.00.

  5. Always have your headlights on.  It’s the law in Iceland due to long low light summer days or the short dark winter days and during the spring or fall when the sun sits low in the sky the sunlight can be blinding to a driver. Also, the law says you must use seat belts.

  6. Don’t drive while using your cell phone unless you have a hands-free system.  Iceland is strict about this. The base fine for it is about 5000 Kronur or $45.00.

  7. Note that, unlike in the U.S., turning right on a red light is illegal.

  8. I found that driving in Iceland got a lot easier the further away from Reykjavik I went.

  9. There are two big concerns with driving in Iceland.  First, be aware of the need to keep your eyes ON the road.  Iceland has an incredible scenery. Thus, it can be extremely distracting.  Too, remember not all the other drivers will be keeping their eyes on the road. This makes it even more imperative that you drive defensively and be aware of all the cars around you.  Second, once you get outside of Reykjavik you will most likely not see many police looking for speeders. However, you will most certainly run across speed cameras. If you’re going too fast in front of the cameras, then you will get a ticket.  Nobody wants a souvenir like that. You will see a small sign with a camera on it shortly before each speed camera zone. I saw most of these cameras located near populated areas, but it is definitely a good idea to avoid speeding everywhere just to be safe.  The speed limits in Iceland are: 50 km/h or 31 mph in urban areas; 80 km/h or 50 mph on gravel roads; and 90 km/h or 56 mph on paved hard surface roads. Also, unlike in the U.S., while there may be special warning signs indicating problems ahead like sharp bends, there is usually no separate road sign to tell you to reduce your speed.  Beware of the sharp turns.

  10. Some countryside bridges are single lane bridges.  Be very careful when approaching and crossing these bridges.

  11. Some roads will force you to transition from pavement to gravel as you get further from Reykjavik and the Ring Road that goes around most of the country.  Be aware that some car rental companies will count any gravel damage against you if you do not have the insurance. It’s best to make the transition to these gravel roads slowly or you might lose traction on the gravel road.  Most highland roads in Iceland’s interior are very narrow gravel roads which are not made to handle any kind of speed travel at all.

  12. It is not necessary to rent a car rated for the F roads unless you plan on driving on one of the F roads.  However, you might want to have the peace of mind that comes with having a raised SUV that can handle the worst road conditions that you might encounter.  I was thankful that I had a F road rated vehicle when I almost got stuck in the West Fjords area outside of Drangsnes. However, you absolutely do not need all wheel drive or 4 x 4 vehicles if you only plan on driving in the capital or staying on Iceland’s Ring Road.

  13. Driving off road is illegal.  Do not do it!

  14. The wind in Iceland is no joke.  Be careful opening and closing your car doors on windy days.  Some days it was downright impossible to open my car door into the wind.  

  15. If you see sheep, slow down. Watch for them to cross the road in front of you.

  16. Fuel in Iceland is extremely expensive.  Be sure to budget extra money for it. The only ways that I can think of to avoid this money drain are to stay in the capital or take a tour instead of driving yourself.  Remember to fuel up the car whenever possible. Think ahead about putting fuel into your car. If you are going out into the countryside, check ahead to find where is the next gas station.  You want to be enjoying the scenery, not worrying about whether you can find a gas station. Be aware, even on the Ring Road, there are some long stretches where there are no gas stations.

  17. I only came across one toll in Iceland.  That toll was to use a tunnel on my way to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  You can avoid this toll, but driving around this tunnel will add a considerable amount of time and fuel cost to your drive.  It’s honestly better to just pay the toll, especially if you’re in a time crunch.

  18. Iceland’s weather can be unpredictable.  Check the forecast when you can to keep up to date about weather conditions where you are headed.

  19. 112 is the Icelandic version of 911 in the United States.

That trip to the Westfjords will take a bit longer without a vehicle.

That trip to the Westfjords will take a bit longer without a vehicle.

Money Savers for Car Rentals

  1. Book your car rental for Iceland as far in advance as you can.  The earlier, the better rate you will obtain and the more options you will have to choose from.  Book a car with unlimited mileage.

  2. Be sure to rent your vehicle before you get to Iceland to ensure you get the size and type of car for your needs.

  3. Create a Rakuten account.  Many travel arrangements can be made with Rakuten turned on which means you will eventually get a small percentage of what you spent back in a rebate. If you use the hyperlink that I provided and make a purchase of $25 or more with a new account, I will get a few dollars and you will too. I’ll be able to use the money from Rakuten to help pay for the costs of this website. You can use the money that Rakuten will pay you to help cover that first tank of fuel while on your Icelandic road trip.

  4. Create an Expedia or Travelocity account and book through them - with Rakuten turned on - to get a low price and a % back.

  5. Check out  https://www.rentalcars.com/en/  and https://www.autoeurope.com/  These two websites often have the best car rental prices you can find.

  6. You should explore if you can combine your car rental with your flight purchase to save more money by buying as a bundle and get a % back on the deal.

  7. Pay for the rental car insurance.  Iceland’s roads are often rough and things happen. Gravel roads often mean dirt, debris, and gravel are kicked up and hit the vehicle.  Consider maybe even paying the fee so you can return the vehicle without a full tank (recommended if you are returning your rental vehicle the same day as your flight.)



Thinking about traveling to Iceland?  Consider picking up a copy of the guidebook I used to help plan my trip.

Thinking about traveling to Iceland? Consider picking up a copy of the guidebook I used to help plan my trip.

The following link is an Amazon affiliate link.

Lonely Planet’s guidebook to Iceland: https://amzn.to/2yG9mMq

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