This is where I share stories, lessons, and advice from my travels around the world.
Ten Experiences To Have in Tokyo
A local tour guide once told me that for the Japanese shopping for chopsticks is like shopping for the right pair of sneakers. Everyone in the household has at least a pair of their own and each of them must be tried on before purchasing.
Ten Experiences To Have In Tokyo
If you’ve never been to Tokyo, then the idea of planning what to do can be utterly overwhelming at times. The city itself is massive. I had about ten days to spend in Tokyo during the summer of 2019. The trip was completely last minute, which is not my style, so little planning went into it, As one traveler mentioned to me while I was in Tokyo, you can spend two weeks in Tokyo itself and still not experience or see everything. As it turns out, I couldn’t agree more. In that spirit, I came up with ten experiences that you should consider while visiting Tokyo. Understand that this isn’t a comprehensive list. It’s just ten things that I personally got to do and I think you should give them a shot if you’re struggling to decide on your itinerary. I’d love to hear what you experienced and would recommend in Tokyo.
1. One Day Bus Tour
I can already hear my friends and readers screaming out no in my mind upon reading that I just recommended a bus tour of Tokyo. I was originally skeptical too. Hear me out. I met a guy from England that made a good case for it while I was sitting through the bus ride and felt like I was being ushered along like cattle at each stop. If you have a day to spare, then a one day bus tour actually makes sense in a city you’ve never been to before. It allows you to hit a few highlights and decide what you’d like to explore more later. The bus tour also can allow you to meet other travelers if you’re like me and traveling solo. If you have a good guide you might even get some knowledge dropped on you from time to time. The whole experience showed me some things that I wanted to explore more, even more things that I didn’t need to waste anymore time seeing, and in addition, I met a couple other travelers. I used Viator to find a tour operator called Japan Panoramic Tours and had an overall good experience with them. If a one day bus tour of Japan is something you’re interested in, then you might want to consider using them.
2. Tokyo Skytree
There are a surprising amount of things to do in the world’s largest broadcasting tower. You can grab a snack at the Skytree Cafe, eat a meal with a great view at the Sky Restaurant, walk out onto a transparent 12mm thick glass floor, have a commemorative photo taken by a professional, buy some souvenirs, take a guided tour, and of course, enjoy the view. If you’re like me, then the view is what you want. I recommend going on a clear day with as little haze as possible. Why? Because it isn’t just any view you want to pay the big money for. If you’re lucky and the weather is just right, you can see from the observation deck Mount Fuji 106 kilometers or almost 66 miles away. Unfortunately, the shy mountain as it is sometimes called, is often surrounded by clouds blocking it from view. Be sure to grab a map with the points of interest labeled or use one of the touchscreens to know what you are looking at. Otherwise the 360 degree view is somewhat overwhelming on a clear day and it might be difficult to know what you’re actually viewing. Remember, Tokyo is a massive city after all.
3. Visit Odaiba and Cruise on Tokyo Bay
In a city with an estimated population of just over nine million it can sometimes be difficult for travelers to find a bit of peace on the often crowded streets with so many tourist stops everywhere. Odiba is itself not the answer to finding some peace and quiet, but we will get to that in a minute. There is actually a lot to do in Odaiba from the many cultural heritage festivals, concerts, places to stop at like the Gundam cafe, a digital art museum, a marine park where you can find tourists and locals hanging out, and many other things to see and experience. By the way, did you know Tokyo has its own statue of liberty? It’s found on Odaiba. With all those fun things going on it might be hard to realize that a relaxing quiet few minutes can be found closer than you think. Odaiba, for the uninitiated, is an island. There are a few ways to get to Odaiba, but my personal favorite is taking the ferry. The ferry to and from Odaiba isn’t a long ride, but with good weather the top deck offers a peaceful and beautiful view of the Rainbow bridge and the Tokyo shorefront. Be sure to wave as you pass by other boats.
4. Visit a Buddist Temple or Shinto Shrine
The topic of which Buddist Temples and Shinto Shrines to visit in Tokyo could easily be blog article or even a series in itself. However, I want to focus more on a simple explanation of what they are, how are they different, and why you should visit both in this article.
Japanese Buddist temples and Shinto shrines are centers of worship for their respective religions. I don’t think I need to go too far into that right now. Just please be aware of that and be respectful when visiting them. Please stay out of the way. Do not cause a distraction during ceremonies, especially if you’re an American. The last thing we Americans need is to do is reinforce the old stereotype that we are loud and rude.
Both the temples and shrines can appear similar. That is in part due to the many years of Buddhism and Shintoism coexisting side by side together in Japan. However, simply put there is a good rule of thumb to tell the two apart. Buddist temples mostly tend to be austere and modest. Shinto shrines tend to be more colorful. The same can be said, as much as any general statement, concerning the dress of the monks. If the monk is dressed modestly, there is a good chance you are in a Buddist temple. If the priest is dressed a little showy or flashy, you will then know you are probably at a Shinto shrine. When in doubt, ask! I was surprised by how many people had a basic working knowledge of English.
I recommend visiting a few Buddest temples and Shinto shrines in Tokyo. Of course there are big ones that you should definitely visit such as the Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji. However, be aware that there are so many smaller ones tucked away in neighborhoods and even in office parks that you could visit as you walk through an area. You’ll find more tourists than not at the big temples and shrines just like any other “must see” spot. You’ll find everyday people living in Tokyo when you visit the smaller ones. I found that the smaller temples, shrines, and places of worship reminded me that these religions are still being practiced right now. I also felt just a little more connected to the city as a whole after visiting them.
5. Visit a Museum
Often visiting a museum is a good way to ease into gaining a different perspective of the place you spent so much time and money to visit and explore. Tokyo is no different. I had time to explore one museum while I was in Tokyo. I chose to visit Tokyo’s National Museum of Modern Art. The museum had a temporary exhibit detailing the life and work of the famous figure in Japanese animation, Takahata Isao. It was also within walking distance, albeit a long walk, from the hotel where I was staying at the time. The exhibit was very detailed. I was able to follow along with as much as the information as I wanted to due to the inexpensive English speaking audio guide that I rented. Without that guide I would of been lost and missed much of the meaning and purpose behind the exhibit. I imagine that exhibit wasn’t so much for tourists. I don’t remember seeing another tourist in the temporary exhibit. The museum itself was a great way to avoid the heat of the day while waiting for my hotel room to be ready. Aside from being an interesting place to learn about Japanese modern art and modern animation the museum had AC. On hot August days in Tokyo, air conditioning is a life saver. I don’t think you necessarily need to visit the same museum I did or a lot of them, but I do recommend working one or two stops at a museum into your Tokyo visit.
6. Subway and Taxis
There are so many ways to get around the city of Tokyo. Two ways that I think everyone should at least experience once are using the subway system and riding in a taxi. I can hear it now - thousands of budget travelers crying out in anger at the thought of paying for a taxi in Tokyo. Just wait, we’ll get to that.
First, I have to be honest and mention that I only used the subway system once. I preferred to walk most of the time I was in Tokyo. During my one time using the subway system it was a straight shot with no changes. I was also with a local tour guide that knew the area and route very well. That being said I did meet several people and meet some tours in and around the different subway stations since they are often the easiest places to meet up with people. I found the subway stations and the one car that I was in to be cleaner and quieter than any metro or subway that I had used in the United States and even frankly some European countries too. I heard from some of my counterparts that I met while in Tokyo that once you understand how to read the subway maps and the numbering system that using the subway there isn’t too difficult.
Second, I used a few taxis to get around in Tokyo. Mostly this was because the whole trip was a totally unplanned last minute affair. They’re as simple as asking your front desk at the hotel to call a taxi. Most of the time the driver came into the lobby to find me. More often than not the driver also spoke at least some English. When the driver didn’t, it was as simple as showing the driver the address on my phone. But that isn’t why I recommend trying a taxi in Tokyo at least once. If you’re thinking I’m going to recommend using a taxi to and from the airport you’ve clearly not seen the distance between the airports and most of the city. There’s much cheaper options like the subway, bus, and shared van transfers. No, the reason why I think you should give a taxi ride a shot for a short ride is to experience the white glove service, doors that the driver can open and close without leaving his or her seat, the ads running on TV's inside the vehicle, and the knowledge of the area. Every driver I met was incredibly helpful in every sense of the word. I do, however, think the average person traveling alone shouldn’t use this method more than once just to get the experience unless money is no object. I’d recommend one way to make this method more economical is to split the fare four ways. That being said, if you want to stay under budget avoid using this method of travel any more than when it is absolutely necessary.
7. Food and Drinks
Contrary to what most of my friends think, Japanese food is so much more than sushi. I am not a culinary expert, nor do I pretend to be; however, I hope this list of food to try will help get you started exploring Tokyo one meal at a time.
Chanko Hot Pot
The Chanko hot pot that I tried was served like a stew over a fire. The biggest thing to remember is to make sure you push the meat down into the boiling broth to ensure it is cooked. I did this until the fire went out which didn’t take more than a few minutes. The dish came with tofu skin and some noodles that I added to the stew like concoction to absorb some of the taste of the delicious broth. Half the fun of this meal was trying to eat it with chopsticks and sharing the struggle with the other tourists at my table. The other half was seeing real sumo wrestlers nearby in the restaurant. Apparently the Chanko hot pot is a favorite dish of those practicing sumo.
Sushi
Most Americans that I know upon finding out that I didn’t eat the sushi in Tokyo every day acted as if I had committed a sin. The sushi was great and I absolutely enjoyed the experience. I highly recommend it. However, to eat only sushi is to lose out on so many other culinary experiences, especially if you are tight on time. Oh, and be aware of the sushi with wasabi already rolled inside it. That was a fun surprise the first time I took an unsuspecting bite.
Food on a stick
I like the many options available with this type of dish and being able to easily share the food with others. I found it to be a great option when I wanted to share a meal and maybe a couple beers. Oh and definitely try these foods with soy sauce.
Ramen
The ramen in Japan is nothing like the cheap stuff you find in packages in America. I tried some ramen with beef and veggies in a little mom and pop place. There isn’t much to say other than please give it a try. I hope that you enjoy your ramen experience as much as I enjoyed mine!
Okonomiyaki
Half the fun of trying this savory pancake is watching it made on a hot plate right in front of you. That is unless you are daring enough to make your own. Personally, I have no idea what I’m doing when cooking at home and wouldn’t dare show off my lack of skills in public. However, if that’s something you’re into then this could make for a fun activity and meal. I was shown two different versions of the dish. The first and older version is more runny. The second and newer version is similar in shape to a pancake that I’m used to at home. However, it’s really like a pancake on steroids with all the ingredients and sauce that the chef adds. If there is one food that I miss from Tokyo, this is it. I’d eat it every day if I had the chance.
711 Food
Imagine a world where 711 has tasty food for on the go and so much more. That magical place is real and it is in Tokyo. 711 is a great option for budget travelers, families, or just about anyone looking for a good inexpensive lunch for their next adventure around town. There are so many 711’s that with a tiny amount of thinking beforehand you might not even need to pack a lunch. For my American readers think Starbucks in the 90’s and early 2000’s. The 711’s are everywhere in Tokyo.
Vending Machine Drinks
The drink vending machines are plentiful around Tokyo. The selection will vary, but overall they’re super useful for those hot summer days when you need a drink. I personally stuck to water most of the time, but if you want to play the game of guessing what you are about to buy, then try your hand at the other selections to choose from. Be aware that some drinks can be served hot and others are cold. In a pinch you can even find vending machines with coffee or hot tea for those mornings you need a little help moving faster!
Have a Drink at Golden Gai
I won’t dare try to estimate the number of bars in this area. There are so many places to try out in this small area. Every single one that I saw or went into was small, so this isn’t a place for those that don’t enjoy small spaces or talking with others over a drink. Some places wanted a cover charge and others didn’t. Some were okay with anyone coming in and others were not. Some establishments had a bartender that spoke English while others did not. If you aren’t enjoying the first bar that you stop at, then just move on into another one. You won’t have a problem finding somewhere to share a drink with a travel partner or meet new friends.
However, I must warn you that this is not a place to let your guard down fully. I never felt unsafe, but I must tell everyone that reads this that there are some unsavory things going on behind the scenes in this area. I had a run in with one of the stereotypical tourist traps while exploring this area. A very friendly black man claiming to be from somewhere approached me in the dark near one of the entrances to Golden Gai telling me, in a noticeable accent, that he was a scout for a nearby bar. He pointed behind him away from Golden Gai and explained that there were many girls and good beer there. Once I understood what he was getting at I quickly said no, thank you. He politely, but firmly pressed me to follow him. He then relented when it was clear that I had no intention of going. In my mind this is a situation that could easily lead to being the subject of a 60 Minutes TV piece and a cautionary tale for others. Following someone in that kind of situation could easily turn into putting yourself into a dangerous and illegal situation. Thankfully, it happened in public, I was completely sober, had witnesses, and I’m at least a little smart when it comes to these situations. My motto has always been that if I wouldn’t do it in my hometown, then why on earth would I do it someone else’s town, especially when I can’t read or speak the language. Please do not let this experience keep you from exploring this area. Just be smart, be aware of your surroundings, travel in a group if you are with people, and make good decisions. Plus remember you didn’t travel all the way to Japan to get roaring drunk. You could have stayed at home and done that for a lot cheaper.
9. Chopstick Shopping
A local tour guide once told me that for the Japanese shopping for chopsticks is like shopping for the right pair of sneakers. Everyone in the household has at least a pair of their own and each of them must be tried on before purchasing. He then proceeded to demonstrate how locals will try out their chopsticks by holding them in his hand and manipulating the chopsticks and switching pairs until he found some that felt comfortable. He then said to me that many will go to the store or a few stores to find just the right pair of chopsticks for them. With so many options on just the wall behind him in this one small store on a side street in Tokyo, I had trouble fathoming the seemingly endless options that must be available in such a massive city.
10. Stay in a Capsule Hotel or Business Hotel
I highly recommend trying at least one night in a capsule hotel while you are visiting Tokyo. If you are at all unsure how you will do in such a small place while you’re trying to sleep, but still want to give it a shot then I have a specific recommendation for you. Try Nine Hours if you are flying in or out of Narita airport (Tokyo’s main international arrival and departure airport) on a late or early flight. The capsule hotel is at the airport itself, but outside of the secure area. It was very clean with a helpful and friendly staff.
Sleeping in capsule is a bit different than having your own place. I found it to be more like a mix between an upscale gym locker room and a hostel. In my experience at Nine Hours the sexes are split up at the moment they complete check in at the front desk by entering the hotel via two different doors on two different sides of the lobby. Obviously, I can’t speak for the ladies’ side, but I bet it is a similar experience. Once you go through the door to the males only area you enter into a dark room where you return items like your slippers and sleep shirt at the end of your stay. Once the door to the outside closes you open the door to the room with lockers. Further in the back is an area with trash cans and recycling bins with the toilets, sinks, and showers beyond that. You can miss the door to the capsules across from the trash cans and recycling bins if you aren’t paying attention. By the way, once you leave the locker area you should be wearing your slippers. No shoes please. It really helps the place stay cleaner.
You might be wondering how you know which locker and capsule are yours during your stay. They give you a key to open your locker with your number attached. Each capsule is clearly marked with a number. All you have to do is find your number and leave your slippers in front of your capsule. I’m not going to lie to you - a capsule is probably about the size of a twin sized bed. I’m not the tallest person in the world, but I had enough room to stretch out. The walls and ceiling around the bed were far enough apart that I could stretch my arms out above me and not touch the ceiling unless I was trying to do so. The walls also had cubby holes on either side of the bed, but they weren’t able to store much more than some glasses, a watch, a cell phone, and a charger. Yes, there was an outlet inside the capsule itself. There was even a speaker that played relaxing tones with a volume control. I found that it helped with the quiet noise of people moving around in their capsules or walking past. I could hear the other guests mostly because there was only a thin flap that covered the entry to my capsule. I think just about the only thing that flap really did was keep the AC from getting into my capsule in enough quality to feel comfortable.
Now, if you have a bit more money to spend on a place to sleep or the idea of sleeping in a midsize coffin isn’t for you, but you don’t want to spend your whole budget on a place to lay down at night then I have just the type of place for you. Try a business hotel. They’re everywhere in Japan and each chain is a little different, but every one of them that I tried were clean with helpful and friendly staff. One of them even had its own bathhouse for guests. The accommodations will be small, but you will typically have a bed, a tv, your own bathroom and shower, a desk or somewhere to sit, and somewhere to hang a couple articles or clothing. Most of the ones I stayed at required you deposit your hotel card in a specific slot to have the air conditioning and lights work. However, someone I don’t want to name any names haha, may or may not have figured out that any card will fit and work in the regular slots and in a pinch for the thin deep rectangular slots nail clippers will work. Tricks like this can save you if you want the room to be cool when you return or you’re like me and prone to walk out the self locking hotel room door only to realize that you left your key inside. The business hotels really are a great option. I highly recommend giving one a shot.
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