Christmas in Paris

 Christmas In Paris

Notre Dame was beautifully decorated for Christmas.

If you could go anywhere in the world for Christmas, where would you go?  Consider giving Paris a shot. Having spent the winter holiday there, I can honestly say if you are looking for a truly wonderful place to experience Christmas outside of your own hometown, consider Paris.  Experiencing French culture and traditions of the Christmas season in Paris is a true delight. There is still something to the sight of Notre Dame, even after the fire, with a lighted Christmas tree in front of it that inspires me to give thanks for everything and enjoy the holiday.  The city somehow gives off an old world charm and celebrates its own traditions for the holiday while seamlessly incorporating modern culture.

Once you make your decision to go to Paris and arrange for your flights, then you have to decide where to stay.  This decision is an important one since it influences what you are able to see and do during your visit. Remember, it is likely to be chilly in Paris (it usually is about 37°F  to 46°F on average) during the holidays so you want to be sure you find a place that fits your budget, is comfortable, and close enough to most of what you want to see.  That way when the weather is fine, you can go outdoors and explore around. When the weather is not so great, you can either get quickly to your destination or, if need be, get to your selected transportation.

Now that is my kind of welcome package!

Choosing Your Parisian Home

As you consider the choices of what area of Paris to make your temporary home away from home and the choice of accommodation type, consider your finances.  Balance what you have to spend with what you want to experience. Remember that you have been saving probably for some time to be on this special vacation. It’s okay to spend that money on some priceless experiences.  As long as you’re reasonably sure that you know how you want to spend your money, then you won’t regret it later. Take transportation needs into this consideration. Often it is not a good decision to pay less by staying further out from the center of historic Paris in one of the outer arrondissements.  If you do, then you must factor in the cost of both your travel time and transportation cost to get to the sights you want to see. People often forget about the time lost traveling. That is time you could spend sitting at a cafe watching life pass you by, staring at the Eiffel Tower lit up at night, gazing at the twinkling holiday lights up and down the Champs Élysées or contemplating the skill that was needed to produce a painting by one of the masters.  However, the closer to the center of Paris, the more likely your hotel or other accommodations’ cost will increase.  It is worth it since being in the center of Paris puts you so much closer to the big sights and still offers you a choice of interesting Parisian neighborhoods to experience.

Choose your Parisian neighborhood carefully.  Each neighborhood is known for different things.  Picking the right neighborhood for you can pay off big as you wander the streets around your selected temporary home.  Going out for meals in Paris can be ridiculously expensive. Consider choosing a place to stay with some type of kitchen access.  That allows you to save a lot of money on your meals. You might even create some memories about finding your own favorite local shops for such things as bread, croissants, cheeses, pastilles, macarons, and foods. 

If you are going to stay in Paris for four or more days (I recommend between four to seven nights), consider either using a service such as AirBnB for individual accommodations in the area you want to stay in or use an apartment rental service.  These options will usually result in a cheaper accommodation for a longer stay. However, the trade off is you probably won’t have any cleaning services, so if you want clean towels you will need to launder them yourself. Still an apartment can offer a better feeling of being part of a neighborhood, kitchen facilities to help keep costs down, and provide privacy when you want or need it.  There are at least nine or more well known short stay apartment rental businesses in Paris. I used Cobblestone Paris Rentals which is American owned, but Paris based. Cobblestone offered several different Paris locations, apartments sizes, and price ranges. They were informative, prompt, and very helpful throughout my time in Paris. Check them out at https://cobblestoneparis.com/  Some other recommended apartment services include Paris Perfect at https://www.parisperfect.com/   Paris for Rent at https://www.parisforrent.com/ ; and Cross-Pollinate Paris at https://www.cross-pollinate.com/paris/p/1.  I have not personally used these three services, but I have read good things about them.

Be sure and visit the local cafes for lunch.

Parisian Arrondissements for value and convenience

The 4th Arrondissement, Le Marais, runs about from the Pompidou Center to the Bastille.  There are several small hotels located in this area which can offer reasonable rates for being so close to the center of Paris.  This is also a great area to consider renting a short stay apartment if you visit for four days or more. For my week long stay during the holidays, I rented a one bedroom apartment from Cobblestone Paris in a historic old building.  It was located on a small side street just two blocks from the Pompidou Center. The apartment I rented had all the necessary things to make a trip comfortable and easier, including a small kitchen with a working stove, dishwasher, fridge, and microwave.  The bathroom was also small, but it was modern with all the amenities in great shape, including a washer/dryer. Everything was included in the rental such as cable TV, internet, towels, bedding, dishes, silverware, cooking utensils, spices, cookbooks, Paris guidebooks, and even a bottle of wine.  I found the apartment’s centrally located Marais location great since it was so easy to get around Paris from there, there were many choices of neighborhood streets to easily wander around, and shopkeepers and locals around there were helpful whenever I had questions. For a hotel stay in the Marais, consider staying at the Hotel Beaubourg, 11 Rue Simon le Franc, 75003 Paris. It offers good comfort, reasonable hotel prices for such a great central city location, and a very helpful staff.

The Marais is filled with jumbled up old medieval based streets where Parisians still live, work, and shop.  The architecture here reflects its mixed heritage and includes old stone mansions, small boutique shop like buildings, and even some newer more up to date buildings here and there.  In the Marais you can enjoy walking around a neighborhood that makes you feel like you are part of a very old European town and also at the same time part of a lively up to date trendy area.  This part of town contains interesting sights like: the Carnavalet Museum covering the history of Paris and France; the Pompidou Center with its great collection of modern art and a wonderful view across the rooftops of Paris; Victor Hugo’s house set on one of the most historic squares in old Paris - the Place des Vosges; and the Picasso Museum.  If you stay close to the Pompidou Center, you are also located within a short walking distance of Notre Dame, Sainte-Chappelle, Hotel de Ville (Paris City Hall), the Jewish Art and History Museum, and the Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was jailed and tried before being beheaded during the French Revolution. Transportation around Paris from the Marais is good.  I found the Hotel de Ville Metro stop allowed me to easily connect to wherever I wanted to go in Paris. Another close by and handy Metro stop was the Rambuteau.

The 7th Arrondissement, the Left Bank of the Seine, is across the river from the Eiffel Tower.  The Rue Cler neighborhood here is popular and contains wide streets, many old apartment buildings, a pedestrian only shopping street, and is bordered by the river, the Eiffel Tower, and Les Invalides.  If you stay here, you can easily walk to the Eiffel Tower, the French Musée d l’Armee and Napoleon’s Tomb in Les Invalides, the Musée de Orsay, and Musée Rodin.  Also close is the beautiful and elegant famous Parisian boulevard for strolling along and people watching, the Champs-Elysées.  That boulevard leads you right to the Arc de Triomphe, a must see Paris historic monument.

While in this area, consider eating at the Cafe Constant in the 7th located at 139 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris.  The food is tasty with changing daily specials. Try whatever the special for the day is as it will be good and reasonably priced. http://www.cafe-constant.com/fr/   Another place to sample some good, but for Paris inexpensive, food is the Brasserie Aux PTT at 54 Rue Cler, 75007 Paris.

On the Place de Breteuil in the 7th is the Saxe-Breteuil Market.  Go to this food market when it is open on Thursday and Saturday mornings and shop for fresh produce and flowers like the locals do.  If you can’t make Thursday and Saturday morning at Saxe-Breteuil Market, then shop the Rue Cler street open air produce stands and its shops to put together what you need for a meal or picnic.

 On good weather days, you could take your picnic at the park by the Eiffel Tower or across the Seine to the Jardins du Trocadéro (gardens created in 1937).  See the garden’s Warsaw fountains with 20 water cannons.  These cannons provide a great water display during the daytime and during summer in the evenings they  are illuminated.  Transportation around Paris is good from the 7th Arrondissement.  The main Metro stops in the 7th are Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, and Invalides.  Also the RER line C has stops at the Pont de l’Alma and Invalides stations which can take you across town quickly and even out to Versailles.

The 5th and 6th Arrondissements, The Luxembourg Garden Area. While many places to stay here in these two Left Bank arrondissements are most likely more expensive than those in the 4th and 7th Arrondissements, they still offer that close in to the center of town location.  Also, the Luxembourg Garden is a beautiful classic Parisian spot to see and enjoy its beauty with nearby sights such as St. Sulpice Church and the Pantheon, shopping, and many good cafes for eating and relaxing in.  The Boulevard St. Germain, the Cluny Musée, and the Latin Quarter are all close by the gardens. For a reasonably priced hotel in this area consider the Hotel Bonaparte, 61 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris.  Commit to staying there for five nights or more and get a reduction in price.

For reasonable prices and good food, check out the many cafes of the Boulevard St. Germain, Rue de Buci, Rue des Canettes, Place de la Sorbonne, and Place de la Contrescarpe.  Try the crepes at La Crepe Rit du Clown at 6 Rue des Canettes, 75006 Paris or for making sure you get to see an original Art Nouveau place in Paris, check out the menu at Brasserie Bouillion Racine, 3 Rue Racine, 75006 Paris.  The foods good, relatively reasonably priced, there is Belgian beer on tap, and the restaurant itself is a feast for your eyes (if you like Art Nouveau or if you just want to see what it must have been like in Paris back in the early 1900’s).

There is a good street market to check out nearby on the south end of Rue Mouffetard.  It’s about five to six blocks south of Place de la Contrescarpe and you can also use the Metro stop, Place Monge to reach it. Open hours vary, but usually the market is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM until 1 PM and 4 PM until 7 PM, and Sundays from 10 AM until 1 PM, and is closed on Mondays.  Transportation around Paris through the Metro is good from this area. Metro stops are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Mabillon, Odeon, and St. Sulpice. The RER-B line from the Luxembourg station has direct service to Cheles de Gaule airport and the Gare du Nord trains.

You need to figure out early how you plan to see all the spots that you want to visit.

Paris Transportation

When it comes to getting around Paris, your transportation choices are excellent.  Paris’ public transportation is generally reliable, easy to use, and reasonably inexpensive.  If at all possible, make walking your first choice for getting around Paris. Walking gives you the best opportunity to experience the sights and sounds of Paris first hand.  However, If walking won’t get you there fast enough or where you want to go is far enough away you do not want to walk there, then take the Metro. The Metro can take you to most places around Paris at a reasonable cost and is fast.  

I don’t recommend walking for long distances unless you want to look like this.

1. Walking 

   Walking around should be your first choice.  If like me, you came to experience Paris, then you should walk through its streets.  Enjoy the sounds and the sights. Even in the cold December weather, there were musicians out in front of the Pompidou Center, in the streets of the left bank people were gathered here and there, and in front of Notre Dame there were some performance artists.  Talk to shopkeepers and others willing to stop for a moment to offer directions or other help. Contrary to what many believe about Parisians, I never found anyone there to be rude or unhelpful. The people I talked to tried their best to understand my few words of French or hand signals; indeed, many spoke English and were both polite and helpful.  The historic neighborhoods of Paris are great places to wonder and to admire the beautiful architecture of its buildings. Take the time to check out the beauty of the oldest square in Paris, the Place des Vosges, which also is where Victor Hugo’s historic house can be found. Another great place to take a stroll in the evening is along the Champs Elysées to experience the coordinated and beautiful light display during the holiday season along the avenue.  I think that one of the great things about Paris is that the areas most people want to visit when they come to the city are usually within walking distance of each other.  Plus, it is hard to get too lost in Paris since the Seine and the Eiffel Tower are usually within sight to help you orient yourself.

All of the Metro stops are clearly marked.

2. Metro

The Metro is Paris’ main transport system.  It is actually fairly easy to understand and is reasonably priced.  The Metro runs trains underground with times ranging from about every five minutes to every fifteen minutes.  Using the Metro gets you to pretty much wherever you want to go. It has over 300 stations spread throughout the city.  Although the Paris Metro is divided into zones, most of the sights people want to see are within zones 1 and 2. The Metro system service hours are good and rarely change.  It starts running most days at 5:30 AM and does not close until 12:40 AM or 1:40 AM on weekends and holidays. Please note that it is possible an event such a strike can shut down the Metro at times.  Check these websites for the most up to date information at https://www.ratp.fr/en/visite-paris/english/visiting-paris-and-its-surrounding-areas or https://www.transilien.com/en

Buy your Metro tickets at the ticket booths inside many, but not all, stations or try using the ticket vending machines.  The kiosk machines accept Euro coins or smart chip credit cards. Non-smart chip credit cards are not accepted. If you do not have a smart chip card, then use Euros to buy your Metro tickets. The most basic Metro ticket of 1.90€ covers travel for two hours going one way.  Instead of trying to figure out the cost of individual use tickets, I recommend you buy a book of ten tickets called a carnet.  Buy the Navigo Easy card for 2€ and the discounted ten ticket carnet for 14.90€. That makes each ticket less than 1.50€. Buy the Navigo Easy card at any Paris Metro or RER ticket booth.  Ask the ticket agent for a “Navigo Easy avec un carnet.”  That way the agent loads the10 tickets right onto the card for you and it can be used immediately.  Buying your Metro tickets this way makes the day less stressful than if you had to stand in front of the machines to buy tickets as you go.  The downside to Navigo Easy card use is while you can use it on the Roissybus and the Orlybus when buying those tickets as separate fare purchases, you cannot use it to take the RER to Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), Disneyland Paris, or for Paris-Versailles.  That may change at any time, so check these two websites for more information https://www.ratp.fr/en or https://www.transilien.com/en

While using the Metro, remember sortie means exit and that there can be several sorties within one Metro station.  Look at the Neighborhood Map posted inside each station, find where you want to go on the map, and then take the closest sortie to reach your destination.  And if you can, try to avoid Metro rush hours Monday through Friday from 8:00 to 10:00 AM and 5:00 to 8:00 PM. Also, note that currently the Metro is undergoing construction as it works to adapt for disabled access.  Some stations may close while this work is going on so check here https://www.ratp.fr/en/informations for up to date information about closings or for further information about holiday service hours.

If you are lucky enough to be in Paris this year for New Year’s Eve, the Metro has a “Free transportation during New Year’s Eve” program for New Year’s Eve in Paris.  The Metro will work all night working in cooperation with the buses, trams, and RER trains from December 31, 2019 at 5:00 PM through January 1, 2020 at 12:00 PM. During that time, the Paris Metro will run all lines until 2:15 AM.  After that only some lines will be work, but they may not stop at all the metro stations. Metro lines during this special service time are: 1, 2, 4, 6, 9, and 14.

The Paris Pass is your ticket to get into many places.

3. Paris Pass

 Another method to cover your Metro travel is to consider buying a Paris Pass.  That way is more expensive than just buying Metro tickets or the Paris Museum Pass, but it covers many attractions and historic sights entry fees and unlimited travel on the Metro, bus, tram, and RER within Paris.  It even includes a one day hop on-hop off bus pass. Check its website for more information https://www.parispass.com/  Even for budget travelers the time saved by not having to purchase individual tickets to museums and attractions plus skipping some long lines to get into them, can make the Paris Pass worth the extra money.  Consider what you want to see in Paris, then make a comparison of individually bought entry fees and Metro, bus, and other transportation costs to the cost of the Paris Pass for the number of days when you are in the city.  For me, one of the best benefits of the Paris Pass turned out to be the ability to skip the long lines at some attractions like the Louvre and the Arch de Triumphe. On one very cold day when I went to visit the Arch de Triumphe that was a great benefit.  Instead of standing outside in the long line which snaked around its base, I got to skip right to the entrance kiosk and start up the stairs.

The RER is comfortable and somewhat easy to use.

4. RER

The RER is the regional express network for Paris and its surrounding areas.  It is a rapid transit type system of trains that serves the suburbs of Paris and also provides fast transport like a subway train through the city itself. It has five lines, A through E, and is operated by a different company than the Metro.  RER trains run on scheduled times, unlike the Metro’s every so many minutes, and you can purchase tickets for a specific journey on the RER. Some Metro stations are also RER access stations, but remember that if you want to use a RER train you must use a RER station.  A station served by a RER train will say on its sign RER and include the specific RER lines served inside a circle. Buy your RER tickets either online, at the RER station kiosk machines, put your RER ticket onto a Navigo card, or use a Paris Pass to cover your trip. Once you have your ticket, navigated through the right RER turnstile, and gotten to your train’s platform, you need to know that theRER train doors do not open automatically.  To get on and off a RER train, you have to activate the doors through a button located on the handle near the middle of the double doors. Check the websites https://www.ratp.fr/en and https://www.transilien.com/en for more information.

Many streets have a bus lane to avoid traffic.

5. Busses

Bus routes criss-cross Paris and can take you on a sightseeing journey for a fraction of what a tour would cost.  I also found out one day that a bus route would take me from the Eiffel Tower up to another part of the city directly instead of having to go through several transfers on the Metro.  Even better than skipping the transfer stops on the Metro was the fact that I could sightsee along the Paris streets through the bus window as I traveled.  Busses use the same tickets and passes as the Metro and the RER. A Zone 1 ticket buys you a bus ride to anywhere inside central Paris. Paris bus stops all have route maps, a schedule of stops information, an end of the line direction and stop name, and a small layout of the neighborhood of the stop.  You can buy your single ticket on board the bus or use your Metro Navigo Easy pass.  When using the bus make sure you get on the right one.  Ask the driver if it goes where you want or check the sign on the front of the bus which displays its end of the line stop.  Enter the bus through the front door. When ready to exit use the red button to let the driver know you want to get off and then exit through the rear door.  Try a bus ride as an exploration of central Paris, you might find something in the city you did not know about before, or learn you can enjoy traveling about the city like a local.

Getting around by car isn't a bad way to go when you aren’t driving.

6. Taxis, Uber, Lyft, etc.

These all operate throughout Paris.  They make the most sense when you are traveling as a group of four or more or with a lot of bags.  Using these transportation services will cost more than using the Metro, so I recommend whenever possible travel through Paris like the locals do-walk or use the Metro.  If you need an English speaking taxi service try https://www.paristaxi1.com/  I used them to get to CDG airport in time for my departure plane when my previously scheduled airport transport did not show.  I called them for a taxi early in the morning before dawn. They were quick and efficient. At the time my ride cost was approximately 51€ and the driver preferred it in Euros, not on a credit card.

Uber and Lyft work in Paris just like they do in other cities and can be cheaper than a taxi, but in most cases they will not be cheaper than using the Metro or RER.

Spare yourself the stress and don’t drive.

7. Cars

Simply put - I do not recommend driving in Paris.  If you have ever observed the traffic circle around the Arch de Triumphe, you really would say there is no need to join in at all.  Public transportation is so cheap and covers the city so well that access through that transportation is easier and cheaper than having a car in the city.  Save some money and stress. Have someone else do the driving.

Sightseeing with a touch of class

8. Seine boat cruises

I recommend you do at least one of these.  There are at least three or more companies providing these boat cruises.  Usual cruise offerings range from about 45 minutes to one and a half hours.  The cruises leave and return to the same spot where they departed from. The only difference is the where they leave from and how far down the Seine they go.  A cruise down the Seine may seem touristy, but I highly recommend it even in winter. Most boats offer inside glass window viewing seating which is warmer than being outside.  However, to really see and feel that you are on the river I think you should go outside. Once outside, it can be windy and cold, but the view is really beautiful. You can smell the river and see the flags waving around while taking photos or waving to the people on shore.  You can see many famous sights of Paris from a short river cruise, such as the Louvre, Notre Dame, Musee d’ Orsay, and the Eiffel Tower. There are also lunch and dinner cruises on the Seine. These are mostly aimed at tourists, but since you are a visitor, why not enjoy it? It gives you a different view of the city as you glide down and up the river.  I took a Christmas lunch cruise for a leisurely ride down the Seine complete with a good meal and plenty of champagne. It was relaxing, offered good sightseeing from inside the boat and outside from the top of the boat, holiday music played, there was a traditional French yule log, and it was a warm way to spend a portion of Christmas day. Listed are just two of the companies offering a Seine river cruise.  One company is Bateaux Mouches, cost 14€ website www.bateaux-mouches.fr Another company is Bateaux Parisiens with medium sized one level boats, cost 15€.  Note that currently Paris Pass holders have a Bateaux Parisiens river cruise included as part of the pass by collecting the free ticket from the company’s Eiffel Tower departure point window at Pier 3.  Be sure and check the Paris Pass website for up to date information on the river cruise at www.bateauxparisiens.com 

Notre Dame decorated for Christmas was a sight to behold.

Christmas Services

Christmas Eve in Paris is the bigger event of the two days, Christmas Eve and Christmas.  Nothing will probably make you feel more like you are in Paris than attending a Christmas Eve service at one of its many historic Catholic churches, large or small.  Although the services are in French, you can still recognize the many traditional hymns. Since this is Paris, there is probably a church located near to your temporary stay neighborhood home.  Some larger Paris churches with Christmas Eve services include: Madeleine Church; Basilica of Sacre Coeur; Saint Sulpice Church; and Saint Eustache Church. Since at present Notre Dame is undergoing repairs, it is not available for services this year.  If instead you would prefer a service in English, there are several churches that have them. The American Cathedral (Episcopal) at 23 Avenue George V (Metro: Alma Marceau), offers a 5:00 PM Christmas Eve family service and a 10:30 PM Christmas Eve Midnight Mass with a Christmas Day service at 11:00 AM.  St. Michael’s Church (Anglican) at 5 Rue d’ Aguesseau (Metro: Madeleine) offers a Christmas Eve service at 11:00 PM and a Christmas Day service at 10:30 AM. Or you could check out the American Church (inter-denominational Protestant), at 65 Quai d’ Orsay, (Metro: Invalides) as it offers a Christmas Eve family service at 4:00 PM and a Prelude Candlelight service at 7:00 PM (opens doors at 6:45 PM) and again at 9:30 PM.  For the American Church up to date information check their website at https://www.acparis.org/

Buy your tickets to the Eiffel Tower as early as possible.

Eiffel Tower on Christmas Day

The Eiffel Tower is open on Christmas Day.  Buy your tickets ahead of time, but be aware that even with an advance ticket purchase you will still stand in an outside security line for some time.  Also, be aware that there are always crowds at the Eiffel Tower and you will be visiting it with many of your new BFF’s. Mingling in with the crowds around the Tower are some who are not your friends; pickpockets are here even on Christmas.  Be mindful of your valuables. Dress warmly, you will be outside most of your time on the tower and it is very windy up on the second and top levels. One thing that makes getting to the Eiffel Tower easy - you can see it from anywhere around Paris since it is so tall.

For public transportation to the Eiffel Tower, you can use the Metro, the RER, or busses.

There are three Metro and one RER commuter stations nearby to the Eiffel Tower: Bir-Hakeim (line 6 Nation - Charles de Gaulle Etoile) which is an eight minute walk to the tower; Trocadero (line 9 Pont de Sevres - Mairie de Montreuil) which is a 12 minute walk; Ecole Militaire (Line 8 Balard - Creteil) which is a 15 minute walk; and the RER Line C stop at the Champ de Mars - Tour Eiffel which is a 7 minute walk.

Getting to the Eiffel Tower by public bus offers you several stops nearby: Bus 82 with stops “tour Eiffel” or “Champ de Mars” about a 5 minute walk; Bus 42 with stop “tour Eiffel” a 5 minute walk; Bus 87 with stop “Champ de Mars” a 6 minute walk; and Bus 69 with stop “Champ de Mars” a 6 minute walk.

Once you are ready to begin your Eiffel Tower journey, you can choose to go up to the first floor by the stairs or by using the elevators.  If using the elevator, you should start your journey up by going to the highest level you bought a ticket for. I recommend buying a ticket for the top level since if you do not like it you can always leave and go down to the second level, but you cannot go higher if you did not buy that top level ticket.  Go up to the top level and enjoy the view with the birds from far above the earth. Follow the line of the river to help you orient yourself to where you are in Paris. Take some photos! It will be beautiful up there whether it is daytime or nighttime. At Christmas time it will also be cold and windy so bundle up.  When you are done enjoying the top level, take the elevator down to the second level. The second level observation platform offers stunning views of Paris. I think it is easier here to pick out specific sights. This level also offers a gift shop and a place to get coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, or some snacks. After spending time at the top level, I highly recommend a hot chocolate and a macaroon or two!  Currently the price to go all the way up to the top by elevator is 25.50€ for adults. You cannot climb the stairs to the top of the Eiffel Tower as they are not open beyond the second level. A ticket to the second floor as your top level to visit by using the elevator costs less. I recommend you do not use the stairs at all during the winter and it is possible that the stairs may not be open due to weather conditions.  Buy your Christmas Eve or Christmas Day tickets in advance to avoid the longer lines at the ticket booths at the base of the tower. Use https://ticket.toureiffel.paris/ to purchase your advance tickets.

I recommend stopping by Cafe Richard for some hot chocolate or coffee.

Holiday Windows Displays

A free activity at this time of the year is to browse the holiday window displays at the large department stores in Paris.  On Christmas Eve or Christmas make a trek to see the displays and stop to have hot chocolate at a cafe in between each of your viewing stops.  Every year the Paris stores go all out to decorate for Christmas with a different theme at each store. Displays include multiple window displays which have lights, animated features, and plenty of sparkle and cheer.  Planning for a store’s window starts right after they take down the previous year’s decorations so a lot of effort goes into these windows and it shows. When the store is open, Galeries Lafayette has a giant tree underneath the building’s central dome; but you can check out their windows at any time.  Le Printemps offers another well known store window display. Use Metro stop Chausee d’Antin to get to the Boulevard Haussmann to see both of those stores. Use the Metro stop Sevres-Babylone to get to Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche at 24 Rue de Sevres. Another store with windows worth going to see is at the BHV Marais at 52 Rue de Rivoli.  Use the Metro stop Hotel de Ville to reach it. 

The Christmas markets are well worth the crowds.

Christmas Markets

Another fun thing to do while in Paris is to visit one or two of its many Marchés de Noël or    Christmas Markets. These are temporary market places filled with stalls selling handmade decorations and foods like cheeses, meats, and candy. They often have a place to stop and see Père Noël or Father Christmas.  You might find a great gift at the market or not, but you can enjoy being there and hearing French spoken all around you.  The one I went to was located close to Les Halles, the Starry Christmas market in Place Joachim-du-Bellay. Les Halles is just a few blocks beyond the Pompidou Center and is easy to find.  Keep walking past the Pompidou entrance straight toward the lights and noise. That will lead you right to that Christmas Market and just beyond it, to Les Halles. Les Halles is a modern shopping center which is mostly underground, but also has three outdoor levels.  Les Halles also has an outdoor, but covered stage area where free performances are offered. You can also get to Les Halles by the Metro stop Chatelet-Les Halles and the RER lines A, B, and D stop there at the Chatelet-Les Halles station. This year the largest Christmas Market is out at La Defense which lies outside of historic central Paris, but is easily reached using the Metro line 1 at the La Defense stop.  Just be aware that it is located in zone 3. That is northwest outside of the central Paris Metro zones 1 and 2. RER line 3 also will take you there. For more information about the Christmas Markets including days and times open check the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau website https://en.parisinfo.com/discovering-paris/major-events/christmas-in-paris/christmas-markets-in-paris/christmas-markets-in-paris

I used this guide book and phrase book during my trip to Paris.

The following links are Amazon affiliate links.

Frommer’s Paris day by day: https://amzn.to/35ckbSA

Barron’s French at a Glance: https://amzn.to/2VLewjb

Dining For First Time Cruisers

Main Dining Room

Use the main dining room to save money and eat well. You don’t have to pay for the specialty dining restaurants to eat well.

These days many cruisers have stopped using the main dining room for dinner. They have been lured by the promise of better or different food at upscale charging dining places on the ship.  While the food in those places can sometimes be better, usually it is not that much better as to be worth an extra $30 to $50 dollars per person per meal.  

Note, though that some ships do not even offer a main dining room; these are usually on some of the newer ships.  Such ships often offer instead several smaller venues that people can try on different nights.  Since many people like to change it up on a cruise and they really don’t want to stop to change for dinner any more, cruise lines are offering more casual eateries.  Royal Caribbean even has a Johnny Rockets and a Sorrento’s pizzeria on many of their ships. But, if you like eating at a set time where you know where you will sit and be served by servers who know what you like, then nothing beats the main dining room.

There are usually two traditional seating times in a ship’s main dining room.  Often the early dining time is at 5:30 or 6:00, while the late dining time is at 8:00 or 8:30 PM.  Eating early or late is definitely a personal preference.  While you can change your usual time to eat because you are on a cruise, I think most people like to eat around the time they usually do.

Early dining time means, of course, that you eat earlier.  That’s especially good for those who like that, for older folks, and for younger children.  The downside to it means you might have to stop what you are doing mid to late afternoon, go get cleaned up (think leaving the pool, taking a shower, and getting nicely dressed) so you can be in the dining room by 5:30 or 6:00 PM.  The upside is you will finish your dinner usually by about 7:30 and are ready to do something different for the evening – to participate in activities, listen to the piano player in the bar, or go see some entertainment shows.

Late dining time means you can stretch your afternoon activities out and have a few drinks before dinner.  You can even have a late afternoon snack to tide you over until dinner time.  Eating at the late dining time means you probably will have the opportunity to see an entertainment show earlier in the evening before dinner, spend time at the pub, or finish watching the sports game all before you go to eat.  Late dining usually lasts about one and ½ to two hours for your meal. Afterwards, you can then pick your late night evening entertainment choices such as karaoke, comedians, or silly fun game shows.

Keep in mind, the main dining room is a great place to meet new people.  The dining room offers table tops of varied sizes.  To meet more people be sure to request a six, eight, or ten top table preferences when you book your cruise.

If you want to have a smaller table or a table for only two, you’ll have better luck achieving that by choosing a free style or my time dining experience in the main dining room.  Doing so means you still eat in the main dining room, but can do so at the time you choose, not the set two traditional dining times the cruise line offers.  This type of main dining room experience means you may not get the same servers each meal time, but you can choose a time you find comfortable for eating.  Most often you can reserve a time ahead, but it usually works fine to keep it flexible and walk up to the dining room when it is open and you want to eat.  You’ll be put on a list to get the first available table of the size and location you want just you would at a restaurant in your hometown.  Rest assured, the main dining food offered is the same, it just happens at the time you want, not at the pre-set dining two times.

The main dining room experience means you will have a server seat you, put your napkin on your lap, bring your drinks, have a menu of choices each evening, and someone will take your order.

Always remember when it comes to cruise dining - if you like it, you can order more.  If you want two appetizers, main courses, or deserts or all of those, order them!  Many people do and some eat two or three appetizers rather than eating the main course.  If you want ice cream and it is not on the menu, ask for it. You will likely receive it.  Try two different deserts.  If you don’t like something, ask for something else! Your server will take care of it. They want you to be happy and have something you like.

Main Dining Room on Royal Caribbean’s Adventure of the Seas

Pro Tip: Use the main dining room at lunch or for breakfast to avoid the crowds. Other dining options will see a surge of people during these times. 

Who doesn’t like be served your meal?  It’s easier than going to the buffet, but be aware there are fewer menu items to choose from.

On many cruise lines during at sea days, the main dining room is open for breakfast and lunch.  The dining room may seat you at a table as you come in with others or they may seat your party at separate tables.  That depends on the cruise line or even the ship.  The dining room may also provide a separate area for repeat cruisers.  For breakfast and lunch the menu can vary, but often there will be both a menu of choices along with a short buffet line in the dining room. You can have what you want within their choices, but there still is no charge.  However, remember that eating in the dining room at breakfast or lunch does take more time than eating at that other main ship eatery, the casual buffet.  The plus to eating in the main dining room for breakfast and lunch is there is less noise or confusion and someone delivers what you order to your table.

ProTip: Drink water or coffee or tea. 

You’ll have enough food; you won’t miss the soft drink or alcohol.  Drinks usually included with the meal are water, coffee, tea, and milk.  If you want a soft drink, beer, wine, or mixed drink, that will have a cost.  

2.   Casual Buffet.

Pro Tip: Use the casual buffet on the ship. You can eat there from a large smorgasbord of choices at no additional cost.

The varieties of choices at the buffet are simply amazing – there is literally something for everyone.  When you go to the buffet the first time, be sure to walk through the whole place. Often there is more than one serving area and multiple seating areas. Many people never make it all the way to the back so there can be plentiful seating back there.  Some ships even have an open balcony eating area in the back or side of the buffet.  Check it out first and then select your food and seating.

For lunch, you will usually find kid and fan friendly food like hot dogs and hamburgers with all the fixings, tacos, panini, one to two soups of the day, several different types of breads, sandwich makings, and hot dishes like roast beef, stews, chicken, and varied cultural food specialties of the day.

For lunch, dinner, and at an afternoon snack time, take a look at the many desserts available at the buffet.  The variety offered usually runs from fresh fruit and cheeses to cookies, cakes, pies, etc.  Note, there are sugar free options available.  Day to day the ships change the desserts offered, so look them all over and make your choices.

If you need gluten free food, and don’t see any then ask.  Usually the cruise lines offer gluten free choices at each meal and they are glad to assist in making sure what you eat is gluten free.

Drinks such as tea, coffee, lemonade, flavored waters, and water are free.  Milk, both low-fat, whole, and chocolate are free.  Also, there is usually almond, soy, lactose free milk available too. However, just like in the dining room sodas, beer, wine, and mixed drinks have a cost.

For breakfast, there is any number of ways that eggs, bacon, and toasts are served.  You can get an omelet made to order.  Also available are: cereals, fresh fruits, grits, oatmeal, croissants, donuts, and more. If you don’t see what you want – and you will – ask a server to help you find what you are looking for.

Pro Tip: Don’t forget to try the buffet for dinner.

The buffet at dinner is usually less crowded than earlier in the day.  The dinner buffet often offers its own variety of main dish choices, sometime also includes what is being served in the main dining room, and a server will still get you your drinks and help as needed during your meal.  Best of all, you can eat when you want during the dinner buffet hours and you can dress casually.

The biggest downside to the buffet at breakfast and lunch times is it can get crowded and noisy.  So many people all looking at food and crossing paths with each other can lead to confusion and congestion.  Just remember, there is plenty of food. They will not run out; you will get what you want so be sure to take it easy and enjoy the variety.

3.  Pizza, Pizza, Pizza.

Most ships have free pizza available somewhere on the ship at any hour.  Your job is to just to look for it and then enjoy it. Some cruise lines serve better pizza than others, but it is almost always free.  When you need something to cut the alcohol and satisfy your food craving at 3 AM, find the pizza!

4.   Snacks.

Pro Tip:  Many types of snacks are available onboard.  There will be places from a small café to a pub offering light meal items or snacks to satisfy your cravings. Check for places on your ship that are not the main dining rooms, buffets, or specialty dining places.

Ships often have snack places or smaller cafes somewhere on the ship. Some ships have more than one or two of these places. They will offer a more limited choice of food than the buffet, but what they do have is usually tasty. And it’s free!  These places may only be open at lunchtime or for afternoon snacks, but there is usually one such place that is open 24/7 or almost round the clock. Go get a wrap, a sandwich, a salad, a cookie, yogurt, or a smoothie.  You have worked up an appetite lying in the sun, so you need that cookie or two!

5.   Ice Cream and Specialty Coffees.

Pro Tip: Find the soft serve free ice cream on the ship. It’s free.

The soft serve ice cream is often on the pool deck somewhere. Follow the kids and you’ll find it.  The ice cream is really a custard type, but it can satisfy that ice cream urge.  Avoid the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream and the Starbucks type coffees – those have a cost and that will add up quickly.  

6.   Room Service.

Pro Tip: Know what your ship provides for free through room service and skip the rest.

Some cruise lines provide free room service, some charge for it. Some charge for certain things obtained through room service and not others.  Don’t forget, that even if the room service is free you still need to tip the delivery server.

7.   Alcohol.

Pro Tip: It Is Not Free. Stay away from alcohol if you are on a tight budget.

Charging for alcohol is how cruise lines make mucho money.  That being said, if you want a drink, you are on vacation.  Just remember to watch the cost as it adds up quickly.  To have an alcoholic drink, but at a lower cost: look for the drink of the day, don’t get the drink in the fancy glass you have to pay for, and check out that bucket of beer offered on the pool deck.  Some venues on the ship will offer happy hour specials or sports events specials so consider those as a way to imbibe.

     If you plan to drink a lot, then consider buying a drinks card or package if your cruise line offers one.  When considering a drinks package, check out what alcohol and brands are covered, the cost of it versus buying one to two drinks a day, and where on the ship you can use it.  If you plan to drink a lot on your cruise, it is usually cheaper to buy the drinks card or package, than to pay for single drinks.  If you don’t drink much, then be aware that purchasing a drink package means you probably would need to drink 5 to 6 mixed drinks every day just to break even on the cost. 

Selecting A Cruise For First Timers

Top Eight Things to Consider When Booking a Cruise

Sunset over the Caribbean

Cruising can be fun, but a cruise can have a costly learning curve.  Here are my eight things to consider when going on your first cruise.

1.   Location, location, location.  When booking a cruise keep in mind that old real estate truism.

Supply and demand rules cruising, just like any other trip.  Where you want to go and when influences cruise prices. When much of the US is shivering from winter cold, visions of a warm Caribbean sun and blue water tempt many to travel. So prices tend to go up then.  You’ll see a similar effect on the prices of cruises when schools let out for summer vacation and when most spring breaks occur.  Consider avoiding those times if possible.

You can save some money by traveling during the spring or fall months.  I recommend checking out the average temperature and rainfall where and when you are considering traveling.  Once you have picked a timeframe and location, then it’s time to move into checking out where the cruise lines are sending their ships at those times.  Look at the itineraries available and their prices.

For places like Alaska, you do need to keep in mind that if you want to have the best weather then the crowds and higher prices are unavoidable. It’s simply a matter of spending wisely to get the experience you want to have.

Tourists going ashore at Sint Maarten

2.   Know what you want to do.

Seriously consider what you want from your cruise. Are you someone who wants to spend time onboard relaxing, soaking up some sun, and enjoying the ship?  Are you someone who likes variety and wants to visit many places?

If you are a person who like to lounge around, needs to recuperate from working, enjoys sampling varied onboard activities (such as sushi classes, entertainment shows to belly flop contests, and play trivia), or lounging by the pool, then choose a cruise with more at sea days.

If you are easily bored, like to be on the move, like exploring new places, like a variety of activity choices, or shopping, then choose a cruise with many ports to visit.

3.    Find the company that fits you.

Once you know about where you want to go and when along with what you would most enjoy, consider what cruise line and which ship to choose.

I always recommend a first time cruiser stick with the larger lines such as Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Norwegian, or Princess.  They know how to package an experience that meets the needs of most people across all ages.  They offer popular destinations and a good variety of cruise lengths consisting of both at sea and in port days.

These cruise lines also offer a good variety of ships to choose among.  They go to many different places with each offering a fun variety of onboard entertainment.  

If you think you’d like a really big ship with plenty to do on board, Royal Caribbean offers the largest cruise ships afloat.  Their really big ships can carry as many as 6000 of your closest new best friends, but the ships are designed to spread out the crowds between activities, pools, and different eateries.

Carnival offers fun slides and play areas.  Norwegian says dress casual and enjoy multiple choices every day for dining.

For some of the best prices, consider the medium sized ships carrying around 3000 to 4000 passengers.  These size ships are a nice mix between size and amenities.  Big enough to offer lots of onboard activities and still small enough to fit into many different ports.

Some of the smaller ships, carrying 2500 guests or less, are known for their beautiful sea views, wonderful service, and the convenience they offer of sailing out of close to home ports such as Galveston, Texas or Baltimore, Maryland. Still remember that some smaller ships can be quite expensive since they carry fewer passengers.

Cruise ships docked at St. Kitts

4.   Select your itinerary and your ship.

Once you know what you would most like to do, then it’s time to consider an actual itinerary and your ship.  Knowing what you would most like to see or do helps you decide which line and ship to pick.

For Alaska, remember you will want to be able to see the outside easily and be outside often. You want a ship with lots of windows and ample deck spaces for everyone to use while viewing the scenery and wildlife. You want to go mid-June through the middle of August.

If you want to go swimming and sailing, then the Caribbean has many different beautiful beaches to choose from.  You can go most any month, but during the winter months it is usually expensive since everyone wants a winter break. Early fall is hurricane season, but that can mean price drops.  For time on a beach at a good price, consider a stop at a cruise line’s own private island.  Such a stop offers the beach experience with little to no extra cost as long as all you want is a beach and some sun.  Lunch on the island is usually included, but you can always return to your ship to eat.

If you want to explore North America, Europe, or elsewhere, cruises offer journeys where you can explore without having to pack, travel, and unpack at each stop.  Consider your cruise an opportunity to sample places.

5.   Booking Process Decisions.

To book a cruise you can book directly with the cruise line or you can go through a travel agent.  My recommendation is use a travel agent.  There are many that specialize in cruises.  Go with a local agency (get your friend’s recommendations and the agent’s credentials first) or go through an online travel agency.

There are many online travel agencies that specialize in cruising so check them out.  Most big warehouse stores offer travel services online.  Even if you don’t book through them, some online cruise travel agencies have good websites providing easy to view ship itineraries and pricing. These can often be easier to use when looking for what ship is going where and when, than the cruise companies’ own websites.

A balcony room on Royal Caribbean’s Adventure of the Seas

6.   Cabins Types.

One thing to consider before actually booking is what kind of cabin you want on your cruise.  The cabin you pick greatly impacts your cruise cost.

Four basic cabin types are: 1 - inside (no outside window or view); 2 - outside view (there’s a window, small to large depending on the ship and deck); 3 - balcony (from small with two chairs to larger) and a junior suite (just a larger floor or balcony space than a typical balcony cabin); and 4 - higher end suites (these cost the big bucks – only you can decide if you need the space, services, and perks a suite can provide).

All of these cabins come with their own positive and negative aspects.  Inside cabins are less expensive, but small. The balconies and suites have more room, but cost more.

So you’ll pay more for space and any view.  You’ll also often pay more for a higher deck and to be in the ship’s middle as well.  It all comes down to how much you want to pay versus your cabin’s location. 

Sunrise over the Caribbean

7.   Three C’s – Cabin Costs Considerations.

Picking the right cabin, its size, location, and cost, is a very personal matter.  If you want to go as cheaply as possible, then book an inside cabin on the lowest public cabin deck.  It will be small, not have any window (some Royal Caribbean inside cabins do offer a virtual outside view on a wall of the cabin), and very dark when the lights are turned off. 

Even the cheapest cabin puts you on the ship with full access to facilities and activities that everyone can enjoy.  It will have a room steward to clean it (not you - you’re on vacation remember), a private bathroom, a comfortable bed, TV, and many varied spaces to store your stuff.  You can travel on a ship quite comfortably in an inside cabin if you are not claustrophobic.

If you do need that outside view, then consider booking an outside window (ocean view) cabin. Such cabins often have a small window, a larger (usually round) window, or even on some ships a floor to ceiling window. They cost more, but do offer a chance to see what is happening outside your cabin.

Ocean view window cabins are often on decks two or three, but can be higher depending on ship design.  Some of these cabins are located at the front of the ship below the bridge (ship steering area).  Be aware you may experience more ship motion there than in other ship locations.  If you do tend to motion sickness, it is best to go with a lower deck cabin in the middle of the ship since motion is usually felt less there.

Many people like to book a balcony cabin.  That’s why you see so many of the newer ships built with multiple decks of balconies.  A balcony cabin allows you to open a door and step out onto your own private outside space.

A balcony cabin can significantly add to your cruise cost so consider carefully if you think you will use it enough.  A balcony can be a great place to get away from the crowds and have that drink, snack, or read mid-afternoon in private.  Remember that if you travel at cooler times, you may not be able to get much use of the balcony.  That view may still be worth it to you, only you can decide that.  If you are traveling south along the coast from New York or Boston during late fall, winter, or early spring it will be a day or two before it is warm enough to really enjoy using the balcony.

A suite usually costs double to triple the cost of an outside or balcony room.  It also comes with more space, a bigger balcony and some perks like special pool or shows seating areas, a suite guest club lounge, and/or special restaurants just for suite guests.

If extra space is needed, then check out the price of a suite against the price of two or more cabins. Sometimes a junior suite or above size suite can be more affordable for a family instead of paying for more cabins.

Before leaving the topic of cabins, it is worth mentioning that some cruise lines are offering some interesting alternative options these days: solo cabins, some even with a small balcony, for solo travelers; and family cabins that have separate bunk bed areas for children.

If you are traveling as a solo, then check on the solo cabin offerings as they mean you won’t have to pay a single supplement price to occupy a double occupancy cabin (the price standard for cruise cabins).

If you are traveling with children, consider booking two adjacent cabins with a connecting door.  That gives a family two bathrooms and some privacy when the connecting doors are closed.  Connecting cabins may be found in inside, outside, and balcony cabins.  Some families even like to have an inside cabin for the kids across the hall from a balcony cabin as this still provides two bathrooms, some privacy, and a balcony to share at times.

A cruise ship departing Fort Lauderdale’s port

8.   Book That Cruise!

Now that you know where you want to go, when you want to go, what kind of cabin you want, and the amount of time you have to vacation, it is time to book that cruise.

Book through your travel agent as the agent can help you find the best deal for your needs.  The travel agent is likely to offer you an incentive as a “reward” for using the agent.  Often it is some OBC (onboard credit – money the travel agent provides so you can purchase things or services onboard). It is a nice perk and is another reason to use a travel agent to book.  If you get OBC, either from the cruise line and/or from your travel agent use it up before leaving the ship.  It’s not hard to do as there are so many ways to spend it once on board.  If the travel agent you use does not mention any type of perk or reward for booking through them, then ask about it.

Two other reasons for using a travel agent for cruise bookings: one, they know about cruise ships and itineraries and want to share that knowledge to your benefit; and two, they can help you when you need to change something or something goes wrong.

Usually my recommendation when traveling is to research it yourself and explore your own bookings, but cruising is different.  You have to book a cruise trip through either the cruise line direct or through a travel agent. The cruise line is interested in getting your booking, but not necessarily in what is best for you.  The travel agent wants to help you get the best cruise you can afford and want. They work for you to have the best cruise possible.

One last thing to consider about your cruise - trip insurance. How boring and not necessary you say?  What happens if you break your leg outside the US and have to get treatment? Often your medical insurance will not cover such expenses. That means if you break your leg or worse happens, any medical expenses must be paid in full on the spot. Trip insurance is cheap and can help cover such needs if an emergency happens.