Three Places to Visit on the Golden Circle

Iceland’s Golden Circle: Popular For A Good Reason

Please be careful when visiting the Golden Circle and make good decisions!

The Golden Circle is neither golden nor a circle.  The Golden Circle is really just a marketing term. However, that said, it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go and experience this wonderful part of Iceland.  What the Golden Circle really is, is a wonderful day trip for visitors to Iceland.

You can access this great day trip by paying for a bus tour or even renting a car and driving yourself to the big three stops.  There are additional stops to visit along the way while exploring the Golden Circle, but I’m going to stick with the top three stops which make the Golden Circle worth your time and a day of driving or riding.  The three places that make up the core of the Golden Circle experience are: Pingvellir or Thingvellir National Park; Geysir and Strokkur; and Gullfoss.

Please keep in mind that all three of these places are very much on the radar of everyone visiting Iceland.  These are not places you visit to escape the hordes of tourists. However, each of these places is entirely worth every person that bumps into you, walks into your photo, or asks you for directions.  Each place is absolutely wonderful in its own way.

Pingvellir National Park

Thingvellir National Park is full of natural beauty.

Pingvellir National Park, also known as Thingvellir by English speakers, is a truly important site for the Icelandic people. Vikings established what is said to be the world’s first democratic parliament here in 930 CE.  It became Iceland’s first national park in 1930. In 2004, Thingvellir also became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To this day, you can still find some foundations from those ancient camps located in this park. This park is also known for being a place where the earth’s European and North American tectonic plates meet.  Thingvellir National Park has some waterfalls, ponds, and streams. With the mountains behind all of these marvelous sights of natural beauty, you can be forgiven for thinking that you have left the real world and somehow stepped into a fairy tale.

You can find the Park Service Center on Route 36.  If you’re arriving from Reykjavik, then the visitor center should be just beyond the intersection and on your left.  I recommend that you purchase your parking pass and pick up a map of the park from one of the rangers there as well as buy any snacks and/or drinks you might require.  Use of the bathroom was free with a purchase of food or drink when I was there. Note - the bathroom that I saw later inside the park was not free. When you’re ready to visit the park, you’ll make the turn onto route 361.  You’ll be on 361 for only a little bit before you will see a fork in the road. Go to the right. You’ll see a parking lot called P2 on your right. I recommend that you park in P2, if at all possible. If you’re able to find a spot in P2, then walk up the hill in front of P2.  That path will lead you to a T intersection. If you go left, then you’ll get to see Oxararfoss. This waterfall beautifully flows down onto some rocks. When I was there, the short hike to Oxarafoss was filled with many people. I recommend that you get some photos and enjoy the sound of the water roaring and crashing onto the rocks.  I recommend visiting Logberg or the Law Rock next.  Simply put this where laws were recited, speeches where given, and legal actions were given during the days of the Alpine or old parliament.  It is a cool place to learn more about Iceland’s history of government and laws. From Logberg you should consider making your way up to the top of the hill.

At the top of the hill is the Hakid viewpoint as well as another visitor center and bathrooms that you must pay to use.  After you’re done soaking in the view from the top, it’ll be time to make your way down again. I recommend making your way to the P5 parking lot at the bottom of the hill instead of the path you took to get to the view point.  Walk through P5 and over the bridge. Make a left there and spend a few minutes exploring the area surrounding the church. If nothing else, it is a beautiful little walk. Once you pass the church, then you’ll make your way to the area where you walk between two continents.  Look for Flosagja on your map or just ask someone walking by. The water in this rift was clear with an incredible blue tint when I was there. You might get lucky and see some divers exploring the rift. It is here that you can walk back and forth across the bridge between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates.  It’s not often you get an opportunity to walk between two continents! Please respect the signs and don’t throw change into the water. From Flosagja head back to your car that you parked in P2 or explore more of the beautiful places found in Thingvellir National Park.

Thingvellir National Park is a must for nature lovers.

Rules of Thingvellir National Park

1. All of the nature inside the park is protected.  Do not mess with any natural or man-made feature.

2. Do not damage the vegetation.  No fires are permitted within the park.

3. No littering in the park.

4. Do not drive off road.

5. Owners must keep all dogs on a leash and clean up after their pets.

6. There are many fissures, cracks, and other hazards inside the park.  Guests must be aware of this and take care when walking around the park.

7. You may only camp at designated campsites.  Camping permits can be bought at the visitor center at Leirar.  Camping quiet hours are midnight to 8 AM.

8. Angling or fishing permits are also sold at the visitor center.

9. Boats must not be launched from National Park Land.

10. Drunkenness will not be tolerated in the park.  Expect to be kicked out of the park if you are drunk.

You can find additional information by visiting www.thingvellir.is.  

You won’t be the only one visiting the park.

Geysir

Everyone is waiting for Strokkur to put on a show.

Geysir is another one of Iceland’s most popular places to visit.  You’ll know that’s the truth when you see the parking lot or visitor center across the road when the area is busy.  I had to find a parking spot way in the back, but thankfully parking is ample at the complex housing Geysir. The name Geysir means gusher.  This is the water spout that all others are named after. Although Geysir has been active for maybe as long as 800 years, it has been in a period of lessened activity since 1916.  Eruptions these days are rare, but an earthquake has been known to stir Geysir from its slumber. Have no fear though, there is another more active geyser that sits nearby. Strokkur is the reason you will visit the Haukadalur geothermal region.  Most of Strokkur’s eruptions that I witnessed occurred within a few minutes of each other. It has been said that you’ll rarely have to wait for for more than ten minutes to see the hot water shoot into the air. Remember to stand down wind only if you want a shower.  Also, be prepared for the sulfur rotten eggs smell. The geothermal area containing Geysir and Strokkur was free when I was there, but there is talk of possibly charging a fee in the future. Honestly, I think they should charge a small fee to get into the park in order to help raise more money to keep the area clean.  The area wasn’t necessarily dirty when I was there, but there were so many tourists visiting during the short time I was there. I can only imagine how a few full trash cans could lead to a mess that could ruin the majesty of the geothermal area.

Strokkur putting on a show for the tourists.

Honestly, unless you’re taking a tour there really isn’t much to see once you’ve done the loop around the complex and watched a few of the shows put on by Strokkur.  I recommend making this the spot to stop for food at the visitor center if needed and hitting the highlights of the complex. That will allow you to spend more time at Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss, or add another stop to your itinerary for the day.  

Gullfoss

If you’re lucky, then you’ll witness a rainbow over Gullfoss.

If you’ve done any research already on Iceland, then you’ve heard of Gullfoss.  Proof of that can be found in the massive parking lot for Gullfoss. When I was there the parking lot was just as full or even more full than the one at Geysir.  It took me several minutes of driving around to finally find a parking spot as someone was leaving. There is a nice shop, cafe, and information center at the top.  I recommend checking them out. If you haven’t heard of this waterfall, then boy, you’re in for a treat. This waterfall is a total monster! It is massive to the point that it almost seems unreal.  If you’re lucky like I was, then you’ll get to see a rainbow over Gullfoss. The paths around Gullfoss are well maintained as indeed they should be. You’ll be visiting Iceland’s most famous waterfall with thousands of your newest friends.  Be prepared to wait your turn to get a front row view of the waterfall from its popular viewpoints. Please respect the ropes, barriers, and signs telling you to stay back. If you cross the ropes or barriers and fall, I don’t see that ending well.  It’s a long way down with millions of gallons of water swiftly moving below you. That awesome selfie or unique photo isn’t worth your life. Be sure to stop and read the signs that tell the story of Gullfoss and how it was almost destroyed by a dam being built.  Thankfully Gullfoss is now protected after being donated in 1975. It is now a nature reserve.

For more information visit www.gullfoss.is.

These tourists are on the wrong side of the barrier.

Expect between driving and spending time at these three places for you to be out all day.  In addition, you probably can easily make time to throw in an extra site during your daytrip.  However, one thing to consider during your visit to Iceland is the amount of time you have available and how much of that time you are willing to spend at each place you visit.  There is just so much to see! You might want to consider seeing Thingvellir, Geysir, and Gullfoss one day and the other places around the Golden Circle on another day.

Gullfoss will remind you how powerful nature really is.

Eight Places to Explore on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Welcome to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula!

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a landscape photographer’s dream.

Be aware that pretty much all of the places I am reviewing will be very popular with tourists on any day with nice weather.  I visited Iceland in March and the weather then was mostly rather nice, but still a bit chilly. The mountains still had some snow on them and looked very beautiful.  The wind can be a little strong. On several occasions I had trouble either opening or closing my rental car’s door. You’ll see signs in Iceland in some areas warning you about the wind.  The wind in Iceland can be no joke, but in most cases nothing to be worried about.

To take the fullest advantage of your time in Snaefellsnes, I recommend staying somewhere on the peninsula if at all possible.  I also recommend staying for a couple nights if you can. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t have the time to do that during my stay in Iceland.  However, I was able to make a day trip into the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. When I say day trip, I mean that I left at sunrise and got back to my hotel at sunset.  Driving from the Fossatún Country Hotel to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, around the peninsula, stopping at various places, and driving back to the hotel took an entire day.  It made for a lovely day of seeing new places, snapping some photos, and exploring Iceland. However, there were several times when I had to decide to skip something in order to see something else or to quickly rush through a place.  If at all possible, I recommend the Snæfellsnes Peninsula be part of your touring plan for one great Icelandic day or two!

The following are my eight places that I recommend to explore on the peninsula.  These eight places offer some of the best sights of the Peninsula. Seeing them offers you a great experience for one of your days while in Iceland.  There are many more places to see, but if you’re tight on time then definitely consider checking out these eight stops.

I still don’t understand how this is comfortable.

Ytri Tunga

If you are driving from the south, Ytri Tunga will be on your left on the coast.  You can be forgiven for missing the sign due to being distracted by the sight of the beautiful mountains on the other side of the road.  After all, the sign for Ytri Tunga is relatively small, easy to miss, and all the natural beauty of the area does distract you. This is a good spot to see seals resting on rocks.  I hope you are as lucky as I was on my visit. I couldn’t get too close out of respect for their right to be undisturbed, but my telephoto lens did let me zoom in on them for a closer look.  I could see their cute faces as they did what appeared to be seal yoga on the rocks. If you decide to get closer to take a photo, be careful that you do not disturb them. If you’re affecting their behavior in any way, you are too close.  Also, I must warn you that this is a place that some big bus tours can and do stop to let tourists get out and look. You’ll know when that happens because there will be a flood of tourists walking around; however, the busses did not stay for too long while I was there.  When the flood of tourists left for their next stop, the crowd size went way down and I felt some relative peace and quiet once again. The place is wonderful even with all the tourists, but it takes on a whole ‘nother level of beauty when it’s just you, a few seals, the rocks, and the ocean tide rolling in.

The black church stands in stark contrast to the colorful mountains behind it.

Búðakirkja or The Black Church of Búðir

On the southern coast of the peninsula is the Black Church of Búðir.  The Black Church has an interesting story.  The legend is the church’s location was chosen when an old woman suggested making a man spin in circles until he became dazed.  The man shot three arrows into the air and where the third arrow landed was to be the church’s location. So that is where Bent Lárusson built the church in 1703.  Unfortunately that church rotted away.  The church was rebuilt in 1848 by Steinunn Sveninsdóttir after she had a dream in which Bent Lárusson asked her to rebuilt it.  In 1984 the church was moved to its present location and renovated to ensure it was as it was in 1848.  It and its historic graveyard sit in a pretty isolated spot. The Black Church is indeed painted black which really makes it stand out from its natural surroundings.  It is a great place for a photo stop since the church makes a contrast against the glacier and the mountain ridge backdrop. There is a nice and easy hiking area just past the church.  There are also a couple really good places to stop along the path and take some photos of the ocean and mountains, have a picnic, enjoy the vistas, or do something a bit more serious.

She said yes! I got to be the first person to congratulate them.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula can make you feel small.

Rauðfeldsgjá

My discovery of Rauðfeldsgjá was completely accidental.  I stopped the car at a parking lot on the side of the road after seeing the lot was halfway full and that people were walking up a snowy path to enter what looked like from a distance to be a cave.  I found a parking spot, grabbed my daypack along with my camera gear and then started up the snowy path. After almost falling twice due to slippery conditions, I arrived at the opening in the mountain.  What I found there was not a cave at all. It was a frozen waterfall that some were poking their heads in to look at and others were climbing. It didn’t look too bad, so I thought what could be the harm in climbing up a bit.  I had no doubt that there would be some cool images to capture along the way.

At the base of the frozen waterfall I met a guy from the States that had the same idea.  We both started to climb with our cameras strapped to us. At that point, the frozen waterfall was nowhere near vertical, but rather more of steep incline that one could hike up while using hands as an added extra point of contact for stability.  The process wasn’t fast, but not entirely slow. He was in the lead and I followed putting my hands and feet where he had just been as we hiked up the ice. It wasn’t long before we rounded the first bend. The path was pretty well laid for us by those that must of made a similar journey earlier in the day or in the days before.  Once I rounded the first bend, I saw before me a gap on the left side of the ice about the width of an average adult. There was no real way of telling how far down this gap running the length of the frozen waterfall went. I followed that discovery with seeing that there was another gap in the ice ahead of me that created a ledge.  To get to that ledge on the other side of this second gap one must use their hands to pull themselves up to it in order to continue the adventure.

At that moment I thought to myself that a smart person would have told the other guy that was enough and turned back.  I fully admit that my next decision was not my brightest moment. I hadn’t truly gone far, could easily get myself up there, and wanted at least one good image from the experience, so I continued on after this person that I had only met just a few minutes previously.  After clearing the gap, he and I preceded forward and upward. Next, the ice took almost a sharp right turn and became even more steep. Thankfully, there were enough dents left in the ice by those who had scaled it before that I could use them to climb using my hands and feet.  However, by this time I had lost my climbing partner due to my inability to keep pace with him and almost falling. I finally realized that I was in effect not getting anything worth seeing or photographing and using such a large amount of time to get effectively nothing worthwhile.  So I decided it was time to turn back.

It’s a long way back down.

It was at this point in my climb that I turned around and looked down.  I had forgotten one simple rule of climbing or hiking in general: the ascent is only half the trip.  I now was forced to confront the very real problem of how to get back down a somewhat dramatic drop of solid ice with hiking shoes that had a good grip, but were not made for this sort of climbing.  As I looked down, I saw the gap between the ice and the wall of stone down at the turn just after the ledge of the elevated area of ice was about forty feet below me. My lack of any alternatives were apparent at that moment, so I decided to make a slow go of it downward.  The process of descending was a time consuming affair filled with a couple minor slips for at least the first fifteen feet or so. Then at some point the ice gave way where I had just eased my full weight. What followed was what I can only describe as a blur as I slid on my butt down the frozen waterfall rounding the turn.  I barely missed falling through the gap between the ice and stone on what was now my right side and sliding over the ledge that I had only recently climbed over. By mere inches, I also missed crashing into a young woman from Bavaria waiting for her friends. As she looked down at me with just as much amazement as I was stunned, the only thing I could think to say was “What’s up?”  After speaking with her and her friends for a moment while trying to catch my breath and compose myself, I made the small leap down to the ice on the lower platform. Then I thankfully made my way down the last bit of ice and out onto the slippery path that led me to my car. It wasn’t until when I got back later that night that I realized my pants had a hole in them clean through to my underwear from where I had slid.

Walking around Arnarstapi is like walking in a painting.

Arnarstapi

Arnarstapi is a small town on the southern part of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  The town is at least a couple hours from Reykjavik. You could get up really early and drive from the capital, but an alternative would be to consider using Arnarstapi as a base to explore the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  When you arrive in town, look for a statue of a troll made out of rocks. Park your car nearby and hit the trails directly behind the troll. You’ll be walking toward the sea. As you get closer to the ocean you should see a somewhat small viewing platform which allows one to get a better look at the coast.  During this hike you will stroll along the coast seeing how the ocean over time has shaped the rocky coastline into something unusual and beautiful. As you follow the path you will likely run into the famous arch rock that everyone loves to photograph. It’s called Gatklettur. Please respect the rope and sign telling you to stay back from the edge overlooking Gatklettur.  I saw a few people ignore the rope and get very close to edge of the cliff. One wrong step or an unexpected gust of wind could of changed their day completely. I can’t imagine anyone that would want to end their vacation in Iceland by falling off a cliff just to get a photograph. Also, there is a trail that runs between Arnarstapi and nearby Hellnar. It’s a wonderful walk with even more amazing views.  It’s definitely worth the time and effort. One thing you realize as you explore this area is this isn’t a place to rush. The area around Arnarstapi is a great place to take it slow and enjoy the area’s natural beauty. I highly recommend doing just that.

I really enjoyed driving around Snæfellsjökull National Park.

Snæfellsjökull National Park

This excellent national park is fairly new as it was established on June 28, 2001. Snæfellsjökull glacier lies within the national park.  The glacier is thought to be one of the seven great energy centers of the earth. I couldn’t actually feel that, but I did enjoy driving through the area as it is simply a beautiful drive.  The Gestastofa Visitor Center found inside the park contains some well presented displays and provides background about what you can see and do in the park. You’ll be able to find detailed information there about the interesting geology of the area.  Visitor Center hours are generally 10 AM to 5 PM from late April through October and 11 AM to 4 PM Monday to Friday the rest of the year. They may be closed during Christmas week and New Year’s Day. Check their website for up to date information at https://ust.is/snaefellsjokull-national-park/

The Malarrif Lighthouse offers an interesting landscape to explore.

Malarrif Lighthouse

The Malarrif Lighthouse was first built in 1917 and then rebuilt in 1946.  To get to the Malarrif Lighthouse take the path from the National Park’s visitor center.  It is a white lighthouse just a short walk away. The lighthouse was locked when I was there.  I don’t think you can go inside. However, I was the only one there. I got to enjoy the breeze coming in off the ocean, the views, and the peace and quiet all to myself as I explored the area around the lighthouse.  The grounds around the lighthouse are made of lava formations which are quite unusual. The view of the ocean and the whole area around the lighthouse is gorgeous.

Places like Londramgar prove that nature is art. The whole place feels like something out of a painting.

Londrangar

At Londrangar are two ancient volcanic basalt stacks or pillars.  Erosion over the centuries has left these two sticking up high in the air on the edge of the sea.  The tallest one sticks up 75 meters or 246 feet. The shorter pillar is 61 meters high or 200 feet.  The pillars are often used by puffins to nest on during warmer weather. There is a parking lot nearby where you can leave your car to go see the pillars.  You can get closer to the structures, but the view of the landscape from afar was beautiful enough for me. Be aware there can be a strong wind on the pathways in this area.  Anywhere near the beach in Iceland you should be wary of the wind and waves as they can be quite strong and unexpected at times.

You don’t visit Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss to be alone.

Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss

It is said that Kirkjufell is the most photographed mountain in all of Iceland.  It will certainly feel that way when you try to find a parking spot or a place to take a photograph of the mountain.  Both Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss use the same small parking lot. Kirkjufell means Church Mountain because it supposedly resembles a church steeple.  It rises upwards to around 1,519 feet and makes for a great stop to take photographs. Within an easy walking distance from Kirkjufell is the Kirkjufellsfoss which means Church Mountain Waterfall.  It is an incredibly quick walk to get to a spot where you can take the iconic photograph with Kirkjufellsfoss in the foreground and Kirkjufell in the background. However, it might not be so quick to wait your turn to take a photo if one of the tour buses just let loose a wave of tourists.  

On a day with nice weather it can be difficult to capture an image of the mountain without other tourists in it.  That is especially the case if you’re trying to incorporate Kirkjufellsfoss or the waterfall into the foreground of your image.  I recommend either incorporating the other tourists into your composition something akin to street photography or using software to remove the other people in post processing.  Kirkjufell is popular, but I noticed most tourists don’t spend too much time at this stop before they are back on the road to the next “must see” on their list. I recommend spending a few extra minutes here and just enjoying the view.  Also, very few people turned around to really notice the scenic mountains that are behind you when you are facing Kirkjufell. This whole area is stunningly beautiful and it deserves at least a bit of your time.

There is just so much to explore on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

I have only included a small portion of the many possible things to do and see while visiting the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  I recommend going to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula whenever you are able to go. It is simply an incredible place full of beautiful scenery.  Be prepared for somewhat chilly weather and the strong winds, but make sure you get out and see this place. One great bonus to visiting here is it is hard to take a bad photo here due to the interesting natural formations.  In addition, there are so many hiking opportunities, each of which offers a memorable vista, that it can be hard to choose so I recommend spending as much time as you are able to do so on the Peninsula.

A good guide book is worth the cost.

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